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Thank you Debbielynn for sharing this touching story. Those were people cut from a different cloth, sincere, dedicated and hardworking, they’d come through hardship and horrors during the war and its aftermath and were undaunted by challenges in their new lives. You are a devoted daughter carrying your dad’s ashes back to his roots, he’s certainly smiling down at you.
Lucky church records survived the war and your uncle was able to trace back the family history several generations. I am from India and have many friends whose families were caught in the Partition of India and Pakistan post Independence in 1947. Again countless stories of horror and carnage, many friends’ families had to abandon prosperous businesses and lifestyles to make the trek to India, where they were lodged in refugee camps. Unfortunately the same thing happens and is repeated through the ages. On a different note, my husband and I spent a few days in Graz in 1981, though I hardly remember anything of that visit. We then drove down to Venice through Zagreb and some smaller towns, one of which was a thermal station. Rogaska Statina? We also spent a month in Ljubljana in 1990 when we were on a UN assignment, did some sightseeing a couple of weekends. Of course this was still the old Yugoslavia. |
Debbielynn, thanks for the restaurant information.
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Sunday, June 26th
today we took the funicular up to castle hill and the clock tower. Hot and sunny up there. So beautiful. I took so many pictures. I’m sure my family saw the clock on a regular basis. The castle is no longer there but there is an old well ,2 bastions from original structure and a park. The clock tower dates to the 1300 th century. There are tunnels under the hill that were used for protection during WW2. Now you can take a slide down to ground level through them! We opted for the stairs on the way down!! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64a06866b.jpeg The funicular ride https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...addf458ae.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f05465ae8.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1b41316b.jpeg The old fortress https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e6f3bdd4.jpeg |
We are now headed to Slovenia. We stopped for lunch in Sittersdorf, Austria at a little Gasthaus and had coffee and grilled cheeses. George’s was open faced with fried onions and peppers under the cheese, very delicious. Sometimes the simplest meals taste the best.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a02efeb1.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5bd3b618e.jpeg Stammtisch means “regulars’ table”. We have a German restaurant in Queens, NY called “Zum Stammtisch”, which means “to the regulars table.” They have wonderful German food and is our go-to restaurant if we are heading to NYC. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ff5ed3b5.jpeg View from the car https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...878a78b4c.jpeg Heading into the mountains https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17c0fafeb.jpeg Heading into Slovenia https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17ea2b86a.jpeg Looks like the old border crossing buildings Someone on this forum helped me find the scenic route from Graz to Ljublijana. We got off the autobahn at Völkermarkt and headed on smaller roads and we were well rewarded with wonderful sites! We passes near the Logar valley, which is a popular place for hikers. Sunday was a perfect travel day because in the cities nothing was open. And we had the most beautiful day! Sunny and hot, of course! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba148eb98b.png Graz to Völkermarkt, then we changed to 82 https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63d6e360f9.png |
Spectacular views. I just love the mountains. They must be in my blood!!
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6c7bcd3d.jpeg Municipality of Jezersko https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f5fa9cdd.jpeg Means mountain villages https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c152519c.jpeg Looking into a valley https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f2898465.jpeg Looks unreal! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e8a70800d.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afc7a4ac4.jpeg Diagram of the mountains with names https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6ef170dd6.jpeg I am so disappointed this picture didn’t come out. Later on my husband figured out that since we had come out of the air conditioned car, the cell phone lens had fogged over! |
Following along and loving your travels!
I leave in 2 months for another Swiss trip. Last travel traveling 2019 to Germany. I am a different person also (20# gain since Covid and a bum knee). You've inspired me to get serious now! |
I'm enjoying your trip report Debbielyn, thank you.
I've really enjoyed the photos of Graz as I spent over a month there on my first trip to Europe at age 18. Was travelling with a friend whose parents were from Austria; her Dad from Graz and mom from Bad St. Leonhard. They emigrated to Canada after the war but lots of relatives were still there so we went between the 2 places and had a fabulous time. I really should go back to Austria, I loved it. |
Our hotel was located in the pedestrian center of the city, about one block from Preseren square, the main square in the city. We had to park in an underground garage nearby and walk with our suitcases. My husband was really grouchy about the walk. He had complained that his feet were hurting and his feet were red and swollen. I thought it could be due to traveling, the heat and the salty food we had in Greece. Little did I know the perfect storm was brewing. I also think he wasn’t gung ho about the visit to Slovenia. He was pleasantly surprised to find everyone there spoke English and he could communicate and go out by himself without feeling uncomfortable. The people we encountered everywhere were friendly, helpful and so nice. The country itself was beautiful and in the end, my husband really enjoyed our stay here.
We stayed at this hotel. The room was clean, the employees very friendly and breakfast was an additional $5 a person, which was so reasonable. The location was excellent. https://www.hotel-emonec.com/ |
Enjoying your trip report. In 2018, we actually flew into Graz, our starting point for a roadtrip (one of our most memorable holidays in Europe) through Southern Austria and Slovenia, eventually leading up to the Dolomites. We also enjoyed Graz, a highly underrated city (frankly Austria itself doesn't get the attention it deserves, in my opinion). Our route was slightly different - we drove the Southern Styrian wine route (beautiful landscape, great wines) from Graz to Maribor (spent a night), then headed to our next 2 bases - Ljubljana and Bled. Slovenia is spectacular, your photos look great!
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A morning walk around Ljublijana and the market. We bought George a pair of sandals so he could air out his feet. Despite my advice, he didn’t bring any kind of summer footwear, only leather shoes and socks. I told him it would be hot!
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9cf3d980.jpeg A relief of the city https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7da325c0f.jpeg Franciscan church in Preseren square. The square is named after Slovenian’s most famous poet, France Preseren. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c7d0c35d.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c84abd2a2.jpeg The market https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1b1cc1ab.jpeg Along the river https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b453688c3.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8cbbec167.jpeg you can take a boat ride on the river https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60e04a99d.jpeg The dragon is the symbol of Ljubljana. They are everywhere . https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94a3aabcc.jpeg More dragons https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...440cf611e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15acbf8df.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6bb1138f4.jpeg Can I buy a vowel? Thank goodness everyone speaks English. The only word I learned was thank you— hvala. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd0c92731.jpeg And of course wurst!! |
After WW2, when the country was Yugoslavia, the Gottschee people were never spoken about and were forgotten, even though they had lived and farmed the land for 600 years and were a part of the fabric of the country. Only in the 1990s, when Slovenia became a country again, was the story again told. The museum in the city of Kocevje has a whole room devoted to their history. It includes interactive screens, boards full of information about all aspects of daily life and how they were forced to leave their homeland, and some artifacts.
The woman who worked at the desk did not speak English very well but she told me I wasn’t allowed to take picture. When I put on my sad face, she told me she wouldn’t look! Then she sent the museum director out to meet me. She knew all about the exhibit, the history and such and I told her stories about my family and promised her that I would send her whatever pictures we had. I wish I had allowed myself more time. It was so interesting. There was a book available to buy which basically showed the exhibit in printed form. Souvenir! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...82914c78f.jpeg The interactive screen. In 3 languages. You can look up your specific village. Ours is Hohenegg, now known as Onek. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99a681e81.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8195c576.jpeg View of the village 1930s https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eeda6bf49.jpeg There was a fire in the village in 1932. My grandfather was the fire chief. He is the man with the shiny helmet in the left foreground. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...947417ac6.jpeg Some information boards https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a54effe2.jpeg |
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This is the book I bought. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...252f2e7f5.jpeg Relief map of area https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...821b1f793.jpeg Information boards https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62e154b7f.jpeg |
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This is the book I bought. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...252f2e7f5.jpeg Relief map of area https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...821b1f793.jpeg Information boards https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...62e154b7f.jpeg |
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The director of the museum is a firefighter and she wrote about the history of firefighting in this area. My grandfather made the cover! I was able to provide information about him, as he was just an unknown face to them. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b93d4d879.jpeg Village map n their Slovenian names. I have a list that I can look up the name and it will give me the old German name. Now we are going to drive the 8 km up to the village. I recognize the road from my trip there in 1978 and also from google map. It’s amazing that you can see everything with the “little yellow man” on google map and also the aerial views!! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2cc713c5.jpeg Driving towards the village. My father bought a property in upstate NY in the early 1970s. It couldn’t look more similar than this. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e90ce4aef.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15bf9e152.jpeg Approaching the sign https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ce3fe406.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48c504ea1.jpeg The curve in the road that tells me I am almost there. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a9fcc247.jpeg At the top left, past the trees by the road, was the house and well. The well is still there and part of the house’s foundation was still there in the 1070s but the grass was too high to explore very much. I was so fearful of falling. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23adefb89.jpeg Probably the offspring of my grandfather’s apple trees. Trees were there the last time I visited. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...430726cd7.jpeg This little pull off was there then too. We parked the car there. My husband grabbed a stick that I could use to get through the grass. He went ahead of me and actually found the well. The last time I was here, it looked like someone still owned the land and there were cows grazing nearby. The barn is now dilapidated and the land is neglected. |
This is the area in the 1930s.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f5344a3bb.png https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e14b339c62.png The school https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b975daad3.jpeg A little about the village . They spelled Hohenegg wrong. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7022af9f.jpeg The few houses that weren’t destroyed . They look well kept. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cccf46e61.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af5306374.jpeg |
The family house in the 1930s
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcbff94f2.jpeg People lived upstairs, animals and storage underneath them. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...43c39a9f7.jpeg My father scratching out the carving of the date and his grandfather’s initials. 1970 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fcbb68aa.jpeg Me in 1978. Now I had to clear weeds, locate the initials, which were on the opposite side than we walked in, scratch them out again. My father died in 2020, at the age of a hearty 91, and I wanted to bring some of his ashes back. I was able to get an internet connection on my cell phone, so I face timed by 2 living brothers ( the other had died in 2020 also), and laid him to rest while my husband filmed a video with my camera. I hope he is happy there amongst the mountains. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a96582b59c.png The well now https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc1c39c54c.png T1915F https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c900dc914.png |
I had wanted to visit some of the neighboring villages that had a connection to the family but Mr. Grumpy kept complaining. He had said they he would drive me anywhere that day because he knew how important it was to me but his complaining became too much. I had wanted to have a bite to eat in the city, visit the local visitors center and the store that sold local honey but it wasn’t to be. We drove back to the city of Gottschee and I took a quick peek at the main church and snapped a few pictures. The city was deserted that day, HOT,HOT, HOT so the tour for the day was over and we headed back to Ljubljana .
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...29ff1d154.jpeg Approaching the city. I do believe the family went into the city once a year. You can see the steeple of the church if you look carefully in the middle of the picture. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce62d67c4.jpeg St Fabian and Sebastian Church https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2cee07f40.jpeg Interior https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90f4ead4f.jpeg A river runs through it. Every city seems to have a river, and usually a castle. I think originally there was also a castle in Gottschee. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5497f37a.jpeg Interesting sculpture |
Mokka4, yes, it took dedication and work from this lazy bum to get moving but it was for the best. I feel better now and because of pall the walking, a could splurge a little and enjoy all the food on vacation, especially the desserts!
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Rain city girl, yes, Austria is just beautiful. There are still things I want to see and I have been there several times.
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