9-day Ireland itinerary
 

Hi, folks! Will be in Ireland for 9 days/nights in early May for first time. Most interested in walking/hiking, ruins (pre-Christian), trad music (and pubs, of course!), concentrating on Co. Mayo, Connemara, and Dingle Peninsula.Welcome views on whether following tentative itinerary seems reasonably do-able (and any suggested alternatives to any of it anyone may be moved to offer):

Day 1 - Land in Dublin 5:30 a.m, rent car. Drive to Newgrange area to see Bru Na Noinne, Hill of Tara, maybe Battle of Boyne area. Maybe drive to, walk around Trim. Sleep in Navan.

Day 2 – Drive to Galway (city). Short visit with relatives. See Eyre Sq. area, Span. Arches, etc.
Overnight in Galway.
OR skip Galway sightseeing and evening, instead driving to Westport in the afternoon, stopping in Cong and maybe Neale and/or Ballinrobe on the way, spending night in Wesport.
Either way, what's best Galway-Westport route, eastern one (N-84 to R-334 to N-84 to R-330 (or N-64?)) or western (N-59 to Maam Cross to R-336 to R-345 to Cong to N-84 to R-330 (or N-64?))

Days 3 and 4 - Westport to Achill Isl./Atlantic Dr., including walks. Clew Archaeological Trail?
(See, not climb to, Croagh Patrick.) Louisburgh, Doo Lough Valley, Killary Harbor. (Aasleagh Falls if time.), Sky Rd., hike in Connemara Nat’l Park.
Both nights in Moyard or Clifden (or maybe Roundstone, depending on availability)

Day 5 – Inis Mor via Rossaveel Ferry (driving from Clifden to ferry by 10 am).
Last (5 pm) ferry back, drive Rossaveel to Cliffs of Moher by sunset if possible (unless skip COM)
Overnight in Doolin (or maybe Ballyvaughan or Lisdoonvarna)

Day 6 - Cliffs early a.m. if not night before. OR skip COM, see cliffs at Kilkee on way to Dingle instead.
Drive, walk in the Burren. (Poulnabrone Dolmen, Caherconnell Ring Fort, wherever else may decide.)
Drive to Dingle (to arrive before dark), taking Killimer-Tarbert ferry or new tunnel.
Overnight near town.

Day 7 - Slea Head loop, including walks, sights. (Blasket Isl if time?) See town. (Inch and So. Pole Inn?)
Overnight near town.

Day 8 - Dingle to Dublin (return car to airport, bus to Dublin). On the (very) indirect way back, drive/see/walk whichever suits our fancies and can be done from among Gap of Dunlow, Killarney Nat’l Park, Kilkenny, Glendalough (falls), Wicklow Mts.
Overnight in Dublin. (OR overnight in Kilkenny or environs, to Dublin 1st thing next a.m.]

Day 9 - Dublin – Trinity College (Bk of Kells, Library long rm.), Kikmainham Gaol, Guiness
Storehouse, O’Connell Bridge and St., Grafton St.

Day 10 - Bus (or taxi) to airport by 9:30-10:00 a.m. for 11:30 a.m. flight.

Muchas gracias!

As answered elsewhere

Consider Navan/Kells then via Cavan and Boyle to Sligo as the starting point for your southern journey. Personally and not because I am not a fan but logistically I would concentrate on staying North of Limerick and heading back to Dublin from there rather than pushing on to Dingle. If you want off shore islands there is Clare Island, Inisboffin/Inisturk from the Mayo/Connemara coast.

Well ambitious trip agenda (American style) but while you are likely to successfully reach each well planned destination, will you be able to take in the experience of travel in a lovely mystical land ?
Take time to smell the heather, so you will not later regret having come to the end of your trip feeling a loss of not really having lived it. (H Thoreau)

Thanks, Parmenter, and sorry to be so "American," but it is what it is, as they say.
Perchance any specific suggestions?

Right, not meant as criticism. I am one (Yank) myself and travel awareness has come from sometimes painful experience.
You trip plan indicates you have done considerable research already, I admire your spirit, and the use of online images, Youtube and Google Earth can provide an amazing amount of up close information that could narrow and focus your quest. Using Google Earth I can come within ten feet of my door in Cornwall.
As you may know, driving distances, sometimes complicated by weather, can be quite deceptive in Ireland, perhaps more than other places. Dingle to Dublin can run 6-8 hours depending on who you get behind.
So some suggestions as you requested. Consider eliminating Connemara NP, it is of course weather dependent for a good time and somewhat miserable in bad. Substitute Mount Brandon on Dingle for Croagh Patrick. Brandon (after Saint Brendan)is also a Holy Mountain. On May 27th hundreds of Pilgrims will walk to the top carrying an altar with many barefoot. If you wish the path up from the south is marked by 14 large crosses placed an even intervals. Dingle Peninsula is my favorite and many trips there has not satisfied my longing to return
You mentioned Doolin. Have you checked the ferry service schedule from Doolin to the Aran Islands? May be too early but they did or do have service from Doolin. For many folks, Inisheer can be as fascinating as Inis Mor. The cliffs on Inis Mor rival and in my opinion exceed those of Mohr. At any rate the Puffins should still be around when you arrive.
Slea Head is worth a visit. I am unsure of this, but I understand there are no more boat tours of the Blasket Islands from Slea Head, only Dingletown? This tour and museum are impressive but will take most of a day.
For me, the most wonderful boat tour from Ireland goes to magical Skellig Michael, a truly unique place. (UNESCO). Multiple boat tours for Skellig leave from Portmagee. Check this online for info & images, but this is Very weather dependent so if you go check before departing.
Hope some of the above may be of value. In May the day seem almost arctic in length. You sound young so move at first light (difficult with jet lag) and you will accomplish much. Cheers Ralph

Hi, Ralph. No problemo - sorry to have replied so snarkily (if that's a word!) before - and appreciate all these suggestions and info.

Re weather-dependence aspect of Connermara NP - Same consideration re Achill Isl., so we're prepared to bail on either or both (and may skip Achill Isl. in any event, considering timing and weather issues (forecasted highs there for next weekend, acc. to weather link from achilltourism. com,hovering around 42 F), tho' also realize weather quite unpredictable)).

Re C. Patrick and alternatives, we were interested in former only for the view if climbing it (which we've decided against) and to see its distinctive shape, not for any religious associations. But thanks anyway.

Re Doolin ferry to Aran Isl., info I've seen is to the effect that it's more likely than Rossaveel to be cancelled for weather and is a longer boat ride anyway. (Might consider it, though, if pouring rain w/out sign of stopping the day we plan to go from Rossaveel (tho' might have to skip entirely if that happens, if still want time for two nights in Dingle/one full day for loop and rest of peninsula).

Re Inis Mor - Chose that vs. Inisheer based on what I've read and what Dingle B&B host has said about best choice (including Dun Aenghus factor) if day trip only vs. spending night there.

Not sure about boat for Blasket Isl. - had thought still possible from Slea Head but will check. But b/c only one day for D Peninsula - unless we change our minds, of course! - probably will just have to view from afar.

Also have read much about Skelling Michael but, given limited time, chose Dingle Penin. over ROK based on apparent consensus if must choose one over the other.

BTW, we're young only if you consider 61 and 62 young!
But thanks, much enjoyed that!

If any other thoughts, feel free, thanks again, and Cheers back atcha!

The Holy Shrine Mountain Máeman in Connemara (which is not considered to include North Mayo any longer for some reason?) is not in the national park it is up behind Recess and a regular pilgrimage although not as famous as Croagh Patrick. Depends also when in early May as Achill and Connemara will most likely be great places, They don't organise festivals like the Leenane Walking festival to tie in with regularly bad weather.

Inis Mor should be visited from Rossaveal on the larger boat shorter crossing,Inis Oirr best from Doolin and Inis Meain from either. Ferries run March to October from Doolin so May is well into the season.

Skellig and Blasket are far more weather dependant being approached by even smaller boats

The best way to see Dingle?? In the distance from the top of Loop head Lighthouse.

For Connemara and South Mayo http://goo.gl/maps/L5ihu

check out my blog- you may get some ideas
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment

OK "61 and 62", then you sound young at heart then and also I got you beat by 9 years, plus I got Medicare A&B.
You have done good research. You are right about Doolin and the weather. I have seen a couple of horrible weather delay situations getting back to Doolin in their small boat, and if your car is in Doolin and you are forced to take the ferry to Rossaveel to re-connect with your Doolin car, then yup, you got a problem. Even though you may be in for a rough ride the boat is very seldom cancelled from Rossaveel.
Inis Mor has good music and food and if possible try to stay a night after the day trippers have departed. You won't regret it. I spent a New Year's there.
I would encourage you to spend as much time as possible on the Dingle. As the Brits say, you will be "spoilt for choice", re music pubs and good food. Don't try to drive around the whole peninsula. Consider Dingle Town out to Brandon Bay (where St. Brendan launched from) turn south to Ballydavid, Slea Head and then work your way east. I can't recall the name, but there is a Gaelic named Pub about 1/2 mile west of Brendan Bay on the road from Dingle Town, at the foot of Mount Brandon that offers good value accomodations.
You are probably right about Skellig. It took me three attempts before the swells and weather allowed me passage, but it is truly one of the most unique places to visit in our world. You guys are gonna do fine Ralph

Tony (and anyone else w/relevant experience) - Re Achill, does the festival typically result in hordes of (other) tourists on walking and hiking trails (and in Westport), or not so much?

Ralph, had thought about spending a night on Inis Mor but decided against for timing reasons... Need to get early start the day after Inis Mor day (from Galway or Ballyvaughan) to allow enough (I hope!) time for the Burren, maybe Cliffs, maybe cliffs at Kilkee and Loop Head and still get to Dingle (town) before dark. (Probably not possible, will decide what to omit as we go, I guess.) Based on photos, would love to see Skellig M., but doesn't seem do-able given time we have (unless we blow off the one day in Dublin at the end, which I'd do but DH wants to see it, so...).. Thanks again for all the info,suggestions, and vote of confidence!

The Leenane festival is just above the national park by Killary Fiord not on Achill which is a good way north and even locally makes little difference to the amount of visitors to other than the set tails see this old Boards.ie post
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showt...p?t=2055901085
If you want to go between Galway and Dingle fine but I always recommend taking your time to see a whole lot of things and an overnight then Drive round Dingle peninsula on the way to Killarney or wherever. There is an obsession with some people who need to spend a night in a fishing port which has sold out to the tourist $$$. Sorry but Dingle Town holds little fascination to myself who has been fortunate enough to see it as it was and has seen a lot more of the island before and since.

Thanks, Tony. Achill walk festival, tho', is on Achill Isl. next weekend (unless Achill Tourism site has inaccurate info).

Yes, I do want to go to Dingle and, yes, I've noticed - as anyone not dumber/less astute than a rock certainly would! - that you have no use for Dingle. Chaque on a son gout, n'est-ce pas?

Thought it was à chacun son goût
Didn't know there was a walking festival on Achill next week thanks for the heads up. Far nicer place than the 0.6% of our Island which seems to have a Holier than Thou following even including those who have never been.
Doolin should definitely figure into your plans.

Tony, I think you're right re spelling of "chacun," but I do remember my HS teacher putting the "a" where I did. I've heard it the other way, too.

In any case, had planned to "do" Doolin till kept seeing references to its having more tourists and foreign musicians than local now, mainly a collection of pubs and restaurants yadda yadda... If we don't try to get from Rossaveel to Cliffs by sunset after Inis Mor day trip, then we'll go Rossaveel to Galway or B'vaughan instead. In that case, would see Doolin on way from the Burren to Cliffs, IF we go to latter at all - vs. detouring a bit to Kilkee to see those cliffs instead - then on to your fave peninsula town by dark. (I know, we MUST see Cliffs of M, says almost everyone but one friend who says don't bother, overrated, too touristy. Other friends say too touristy but must see anyway. Do you agree?)

Finally (I think, since leaving Wed.!) - Must ask, if haven't already and dumb as it sounds: Does it make any difference, breathtaking-wise, whether one drives clockwise (as all sources seem to assume) vs. counterclockwise along mostly coastal route between Galway city (or environs) and Westport (including Clifden, Conn. Nat'l Park, Killary Harbour, Murrisk)????
(Have seen mention elsewhere, re various other locales, of how beautiful X view coming from X direction, so wonder if that applies here.)
Thanks!

Some roads are best one way others the other way. The Sky Road is an example. many prefer heading west out to the viewing point, I prefer to go out on the low road and back towards Clifden looking up the bay into the mountains with the road dropping away. matter of taste. There are lots of examples like that. Others like the Doonlough Valley have the best bits in either direction and its worth remembering that many roads are only scenic in short bursts. And even more in the eye of the beholder.
Tourist spots..Some are worth seeing others not so. The Cliffs used to be an open space with a small wall in places to keep people away from the edge although there is a coastal path right of way which runs right against the edge. Now a million ton's of earth for landscaping and construction of the visitors centre. Concrete has replaced stone and the area has been made user friendly rather than natural and costs a small fortune if there are a group. gone are the €2 per car full days. There is still a public right of way but without a ticket no facilities. Yes the cliffs are worth seeing but these days I prefer the view looking up from the water.
You will love Dingle for all the reasons you have given to not go to Doolin.
Even Soonas who loves the place with a vengeance so much so he moved there and commutes 5 hours to Dublin every other week, advised it was too far.. but its your trip and Ireland is big enough to avoid the crowds even on a small peninsula.

I am pretty sure you will have a good time. You will find that the Irish are a good bunch of folk who will give you any help and advice at a local level.

For the area between Galway and Westport you might find som points of interest in these links..
http://ireland.activeboard.com/t5005...-galway-route/
http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showt...p?t=2055901085
http://goo.gl/maps/L5ihu
http://www.thinplace.net/2012/10/mee...connemara.html

Same age category, same interests and a two week trip to Ireland in May a couple years ago. We are Americans too but are much more laid back and don't plan such tight itineraries.

We liked Doolin for the pub music, but there is not much there at all as far as a place. We normally like national parks and unusual terrain and hiking and wildflowers; the Burren left us cold and we couldn't figure out why in the world it got so much hype.

Skellig Michael was one of the major highlights of our trip, and it was the only reason we went to the Dingle Peninsula. While it involves disembarking from a fairly bouncy boat and some steep walking, it is very doable. We based ourselves for a week in a place close to Bantry Bay and did fabulous walks out on the Bear and was it the Sheepshead?? peninsulas and visited a couple of absolutely gorgeous gardens while there.

It is the only European trip we've ever taken where we did not visit one church or one museum.

Maybe my very detailed trip report will help you. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...eport-long.cfm

Beara and Sheeps Head along with Mizen are the best of the south west peninsula's, remaining largely untouched by tourism. Although with the small bus tours stating to run over the Beara from Kenmare that may be short lived? The Skelligs mean driving round from Dingle at 7am to get onto the Invaragh, Portmagee or Valenttia before the 10am sailings. Are you sure you didn't mean the Blaskets which are, weather dependant a genuine reason for going to Dingle.
The Burren covers 1 1/2 x the area of Dingle but most folk only consider the Moonscape by Blackhead, Ballyvaughan and towards Doolin. there is another 100 or so Square miles that few people visit.

Tony and Julies, thanks so much! (Tony, can't wait to read DH your response re clock-vs-counterclockwise, as he thinks I'm completely nuts to have considered, much less asked, such a question.)
Julies, will check out your trip report (since probably won't be able to sleep before leaving here anyway!)..
Have also read raves everywhere re Beara and Sheeps Head, but haven't dwelled on it b/c schedule already so tight - we'd have to go straight from Slea Head (to which we want to allow most of a day, as others have advised)to Beara, then from there to Dublin, so...
Thanks again!