8 wonderful fall days in Paris
Nov 17th, 2013, 07:51 AM
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8 wonderful fall days in Paris
We are just back from 8 wonderful nights in Paris.
I thought I would share some of the highlights. There is nothing all that new here, so this will be an abbreviated type of trip report with some personal opinions and observations.
A little about us. We are mid fifties, empty nesters and this was our fourth trip to Paris.
We decided to try the rental route this time and are very happy we did. We rented from Guest Apartments and were very pleased with their service and the beautiful apartment.
It had a lovely view of Notre Dame from the expansive living room windows. The huge space allowed us to do a little entertaining.
Where we ate:
Bofinger- lunch
Allard
Musee D'Orsay -lunch
Le Tastevin (twice)
Les Ombres - lunch
Petite Pontoise
110 Taillevent -lunch
Semilla
L'As du Falafel- lunch
Spring
Cafe Marley- lunch
Le Verre Volé
Le Reminet - lunch
Les Bouquinistes
110 Taillevent was, in my opinion the highlight of our wining and dining. Food was fabulous and a unique opportunity to try some incredible wines by the glass.
Les Ombres, although I was not expecting great food,I was not expecting terrible food.
A complete waste of time and money. We went for the view, which is spectacular as well is the space, but food bordered on inedible.
We love Allard, it is must for us as it was the first restaurant in which we dined many years ago. The duck with olives is good, not great, but very good.
Bofinger , a creme of chestnut soup that I will dream about for many years.
Cafe Marley on a beautiful day is priceless. We enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Meursault with our lunch and some the best people watching of the week.
Semilla, interesting concept, good homey food. One of my husband's favorite evenings as he was sitting next to Natalie Portman. Personally, I find her ballet dancer husband far more fascinating.
Spring- It was an interesting evening, food was great , but I probably would not go back. They do not have menus, serving everyone the same all evening. They ask if there are any food allergies or restrictions, to which we answered no. Although venison is something I have never been able to get past, so I had a bit of a difficult time with the main course.
Le Verre Volé- in the 10th, a very casual place with their own wine store. We have young friends who are living Paris with their 1 year old son and this is where they wanted to take us as it is one of their favorites. Food was absolutely wonderful, and tried some of their favorite organic wines.
Petite Pontoise was the only place we went on the suggestion of the rental agency.
Food was by good, but hated the atmosphere. Too bright, loud, and filled with tourists.
Le Tastevin. Great food, great atmosphere and after the second night Annick was bringing us Veille Prune and kissing us good- bye.
Les Bouquinistes - just reopened after a complete redecoration.It is now very modern, black and silver, very hip, but still fantastic food. Another Guy Savoy hit.
We stopped into Café Laurent at the D'Aubusson on four evenings for a nightcap and jazz. A perfect way to to end many perfect days.
Where we visited:
Museé D'Orsay
Grand Palais- saw the new Miss Dior exhibit.
Louvre- we like to pick one area to concentrate on for an hour or two.
Musee Carnavalet
Musee Cognac-Jaq - a miss in my opinion
Musee Nissim Comando- wonderful private home and collection with a sad family history.
Notre Dame- must take a walk through since we were staying across the street!
Saint Eustache
Saint Suplcie
Saint Germaine L'Auxerras
Saint Chapelle- for a wonderful evening concert
Saint Severin
Shopping:
Dehilleron- brought home 2 more copper pans to add to the collection
Le Grand Epicerie- a few goodies to cook with
Many wine stores, boulangeries, local markets. Did a little picnicking in our apartment for our last lunch. We bought a roasted chicken, best baguette of the week, cheeses , pâté, and. Pear tarte, with a bottle of Saint Joseph.
What I would do differently if I could:
Not gone to Les Ombres
Eat less Foie Gras
What I would do again:
Just about everything
Eat more Foie Gras
We walked everywhere this trip, despite a lot of rain. It really gave us an opportunity to get to know the city a bit better. It was wonderful to visit with friends and see how they are adjusting to their new life in Paris.
I always make out a detailed itinerary for every trip and we often end up doing half of my expectations. I thought we would make it to Chartres this visit, but each day that went by, we slowed down a little more, ate a little more, enjoyed another bottle of wine , stayed out until one AM listening to jazz and simply did not want to loose a day out of Paris.
It was a wonderful week and I am already planning our next trip.
I thought I would share some of the highlights. There is nothing all that new here, so this will be an abbreviated type of trip report with some personal opinions and observations.
A little about us. We are mid fifties, empty nesters and this was our fourth trip to Paris.
We decided to try the rental route this time and are very happy we did. We rented from Guest Apartments and were very pleased with their service and the beautiful apartment.
It had a lovely view of Notre Dame from the expansive living room windows. The huge space allowed us to do a little entertaining.
Where we ate:
Bofinger- lunch
Allard
Musee D'Orsay -lunch
Le Tastevin (twice)
Les Ombres - lunch
Petite Pontoise
110 Taillevent -lunch
Semilla
L'As du Falafel- lunch
Spring
Cafe Marley- lunch
Le Verre Volé
Le Reminet - lunch
Les Bouquinistes
110 Taillevent was, in my opinion the highlight of our wining and dining. Food was fabulous and a unique opportunity to try some incredible wines by the glass.
Les Ombres, although I was not expecting great food,I was not expecting terrible food.
A complete waste of time and money. We went for the view, which is spectacular as well is the space, but food bordered on inedible.
We love Allard, it is must for us as it was the first restaurant in which we dined many years ago. The duck with olives is good, not great, but very good.
Bofinger , a creme of chestnut soup that I will dream about for many years.
Cafe Marley on a beautiful day is priceless. We enjoyed a wonderful bottle of Meursault with our lunch and some the best people watching of the week.
Semilla, interesting concept, good homey food. One of my husband's favorite evenings as he was sitting next to Natalie Portman. Personally, I find her ballet dancer husband far more fascinating.
Spring- It was an interesting evening, food was great , but I probably would not go back. They do not have menus, serving everyone the same all evening. They ask if there are any food allergies or restrictions, to which we answered no. Although venison is something I have never been able to get past, so I had a bit of a difficult time with the main course.
Le Verre Volé- in the 10th, a very casual place with their own wine store. We have young friends who are living Paris with their 1 year old son and this is where they wanted to take us as it is one of their favorites. Food was absolutely wonderful, and tried some of their favorite organic wines.
Petite Pontoise was the only place we went on the suggestion of the rental agency.
Food was by good, but hated the atmosphere. Too bright, loud, and filled with tourists.
Le Tastevin. Great food, great atmosphere and after the second night Annick was bringing us Veille Prune and kissing us good- bye.
Les Bouquinistes - just reopened after a complete redecoration.It is now very modern, black and silver, very hip, but still fantastic food. Another Guy Savoy hit.
We stopped into Café Laurent at the D'Aubusson on four evenings for a nightcap and jazz. A perfect way to to end many perfect days.
Where we visited:
Museé D'Orsay
Grand Palais- saw the new Miss Dior exhibit.
Louvre- we like to pick one area to concentrate on for an hour or two.
Musee Carnavalet
Musee Cognac-Jaq - a miss in my opinion
Musee Nissim Comando- wonderful private home and collection with a sad family history.
Notre Dame- must take a walk through since we were staying across the street!
Saint Eustache
Saint Suplcie
Saint Germaine L'Auxerras
Saint Chapelle- for a wonderful evening concert
Saint Severin
Shopping:
Dehilleron- brought home 2 more copper pans to add to the collection
Le Grand Epicerie- a few goodies to cook with
Many wine stores, boulangeries, local markets. Did a little picnicking in our apartment for our last lunch. We bought a roasted chicken, best baguette of the week, cheeses , pâté, and. Pear tarte, with a bottle of Saint Joseph.
What I would do differently if I could:
Not gone to Les Ombres
Eat less Foie Gras
What I would do again:
Just about everything
Eat more Foie Gras
We walked everywhere this trip, despite a lot of rain. It really gave us an opportunity to get to know the city a bit better. It was wonderful to visit with friends and see how they are adjusting to their new life in Paris.
I always make out a detailed itinerary for every trip and we often end up doing half of my expectations. I thought we would make it to Chartres this visit, but each day that went by, we slowed down a little more, ate a little more, enjoyed another bottle of wine , stayed out until one AM listening to jazz and simply did not want to loose a day out of Paris.
It was a wonderful week and I am already planning our next trip.
Nov 17th, 2013, 11:08 AM
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Elizabeth-
110 Taillevent opened mid-may 2012.
The "110" is that they have 110 wines available by the glass. Each of their menu items has a pairing of 4 wines , in four price categories from which to choose. It is a great concept and gives one the opportunity to try some wines that are often hard to find and otherwise quite unaffordable.
We too have dined at Taillevent and enjoyed every moment and every morsel, but this was an entirely different experience. Also fabulous food and wonderful service but with the added wine opportunities.
I cannot wait to go back!
Here is the apartment link:
http://www.guestapartment.com/proper.../snowdrop.html
110 Taillevent opened mid-may 2012.
The "110" is that they have 110 wines available by the glass. Each of their menu items has a pairing of 4 wines , in four price categories from which to choose. It is a great concept and gives one the opportunity to try some wines that are often hard to find and otherwise quite unaffordable.
We too have dined at Taillevent and enjoyed every moment and every morsel, but this was an entirely different experience. Also fabulous food and wonderful service but with the added wine opportunities.
I cannot wait to go back!
Here is the apartment link:
http://www.guestapartment.com/proper.../snowdrop.html
Nov 17th, 2013, 11:17 AM
#4
What a view! Lovely apartment - thanks!
Meant to comment that I also love the view from Cafe Marley although not all agree about the food (wine is good though) and a trip to Dehillerin a must do for us as well. Last time I purchased lovely little single serve flan pans.
Eat More Foie Gras - seems like a good mantra to me!
Thanks again for posting.
Meant to comment that I also love the view from Cafe Marley although not all agree about the food (wine is good though) and a trip to Dehillerin a must do for us as well. Last time I purchased lovely little single serve flan pans.
Eat More Foie Gras - seems like a good mantra to me!
Thanks again for posting.
Nov 17th, 2013, 11:30 AM
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Very timely for us as we are planning to go to Les 110 Taillevent. Gracejoan who posts regularly recommended it and really has enjoyed it.
We do have reservations at Spring....somehow we have never been...now I am not sure if we should go or not.
Petit Pontoise is very near to our apt and it's one we were considering, as well as Le Reminet. I have always kinda wanted to stop into Cafe Marly...maybe we will do so this time.
We do have reservations at Spring....somehow we have never been...now I am not sure if we should go or not.
Petit Pontoise is very near to our apt and it's one we were considering, as well as Le Reminet. I have always kinda wanted to stop into Cafe Marly...maybe we will do so this time.
Nov 17th, 2013, 11:37 AM
#7
denisea - re Spring. A fixed menu where everyone has the same thing is not our favourite - here's a link to our blog post of our lunch to give you a sense of the food (which was delicious....but we all had the same thing)
http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/p...the-drill.html
Hard to be objective - though - because the owner Daniel was so charming and we had such a great time there.
http://lizandrichardsa.typepad.com/p...the-drill.html
Hard to be objective - though - because the owner Daniel was so charming and we had such a great time there.
Nov 17th, 2013, 01:34 PM
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Denisea-
Spring was also not our favorite. I would not return.
110 Taillevent was outstanding.
Make a reservation at Café Marley. We had a wonderful table, great service, lunch was good and the wine was outstanding. It has been a stop for us on every trip to Paris.
However, I would only go if the weather is warm enough to sit outside.
Spring was also not our favorite. I would not return.
110 Taillevent was outstanding.
Make a reservation at Café Marley. We had a wonderful table, great service, lunch was good and the wine was outstanding. It has been a stop for us on every trip to Paris.
However, I would only go if the weather is warm enough to sit outside.
Nov 17th, 2013, 01:58 PM
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Denisea, we had the same feeling about Spring. It was an OK meal but we would not return.
We went there a a day after we went to Verjus, which is also a no-choice menu. The difference was that Verjus had probably 3 more courses, all small plates, but if one didn't appeal, you weren't left hungry.
We went there a a day after we went to Verjus, which is also a no-choice menu. The difference was that Verjus had probably 3 more courses, all small plates, but if one didn't appeal, you weren't left hungry.
Nov 17th, 2013, 03:41 PM
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Thanks Judy...we have a res at Verjus the night before, so I think a totally set menu 2 nights in a row might not be ideal. I did not consider that before.
Kerouac....I would likely want to skip dinner with the Obamas and the Sarkozys. Where will George Clooney most likely be? ;-)
Kerouac....I would likely want to skip dinner with the Obamas and the Sarkozys. Where will George Clooney most likely be? ;-)
Nov 22nd, 2013, 07:12 PM
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I will pop in for a vote in favor of Spring! Just returned from 4 nights in Paris earlier this month (yikes sorry no trip report yet) and we had a fantastic dinner there. Cancelled last summer for a variety of reasons and always wondered what we missed. Perhaps with the ever changing menu we were fortunate to have items on the menu that we really enjoyed (heavy on fish that night, which I like). And I loved the atmosphere and visiting with Daniel after dinner.
We also ate at Septime, Le Chateaubriand, Le Verre Vole and Frenchie to go (for lunch). Enjoyed them all - a nice diversity of experiences. Septime was worthy of all of the praise.
We also ate at Septime, Le Chateaubriand, Le Verre Vole and Frenchie to go (for lunch). Enjoyed them all - a nice diversity of experiences. Septime was worthy of all of the praise.
