8 days in Venice
May 26th, 2004, 06:32 PM
#41
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Mitch your references to the soul of Venice reminded me of something...
When my girlfriend & I ate at Trattoria San Basilio -- a tiny place on the Zattere near the San Basilio vaporetto stop (I looked up my trip report here and the owner's name was Stefano, a very friendly English-speaking guy) -- she ordered a mixed seafood plate and I ordered broiled sole, because they were out of tuna. She didn't care for her dish all that much so I invited her to share mine and the next day I wrote to our friends on a local (Seattle) message board: "Wouldn't you just know it. I <i>finally</i> get some sole...and then 'J' eats it."
Anyway, as I said earlier, you certainly don't have to return to Venice but I wonder if some of these comments are perhaps making you reconsider.
As others have noted here, while Venice does have "everyday" life, catering to tourists is, by far, the primary focus. You can't expect a city so devoted to, and inundated by, tourism to be like other cities which aren't.
When my girlfriend & I ate at Trattoria San Basilio -- a tiny place on the Zattere near the San Basilio vaporetto stop (I looked up my trip report here and the owner's name was Stefano, a very friendly English-speaking guy) -- she ordered a mixed seafood plate and I ordered broiled sole, because they were out of tuna. She didn't care for her dish all that much so I invited her to share mine and the next day I wrote to our friends on a local (Seattle) message board: "Wouldn't you just know it. I <i>finally</i> get some sole...and then 'J' eats it."
Anyway, as I said earlier, you certainly don't have to return to Venice but I wonder if some of these comments are perhaps making you reconsider.
As others have noted here, while Venice does have "everyday" life, catering to tourists is, by far, the primary focus. You can't expect a city so devoted to, and inundated by, tourism to be like other cities which aren't.
May 26th, 2004, 06:44 PM
#42
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My sincerest apology, Sue_xx_yy. I completely read your post incorrectly. Please ignore the first two paragraphs of my last post.
Mitchdesj, I also apologize for writing "I guess this statement reveals all." Even though I sometimes write commentary that reads judgmental, I don't judge people (except when I'm chosen for jury duty). My bark is much louder than my actual bite.
I truly believe everyone has the right to his/her opinion and I enjoy reading popular as well as dissenting opinions. For me, it doesn't matter if a fodorite has a competitive agenda or not.
Regarding Venice, I've witnessed many visitors through the years come to Venice expecting Venice to be something other than what it is - a modern, working, evolving city with a remarkable, almost unbelievable, history. Yes, Venice has become tender and delicate but she's working hard to find a way to survive another thousand years.
There's so much talk of Venice becoming an amusement park or one big museum for the rich, those of us who love this special place often fear the worst. Our love and passion makes us hyper-sensitive.
Many people don't realize that, even with a dwindled population of 55,000 or so, the residents are numerous generations deep who try their best to protect centuries of folklore and tradition. This is no easy task considering mass tourism is the primary meal ticket and it takes a major toll on every aspect of everyday life. In spite of this, they care deeply about this fragile place and its tenuous future.
The comment about gondolieri and cell phones struck me as very odd. I imagined mitchdesj thinking the gondolieri worked for the amusement park (Disney) and how rude of them to behave in such a way in front of the park's customers. When, in fact, gondolieri are well respected locals, self-employed businessmen, who work very hard in a business that has been, more often than not, handed down from father to son. Why wouldn't each have his own phone in this day and age? After all, cell phone usage became <i>de rigueur</i> in Italy long before it hit the United States.
Mitchdesj, I also apologize for writing "I guess this statement reveals all." Even though I sometimes write commentary that reads judgmental, I don't judge people (except when I'm chosen for jury duty). My bark is much louder than my actual bite.
I truly believe everyone has the right to his/her opinion and I enjoy reading popular as well as dissenting opinions. For me, it doesn't matter if a fodorite has a competitive agenda or not.
Regarding Venice, I've witnessed many visitors through the years come to Venice expecting Venice to be something other than what it is - a modern, working, evolving city with a remarkable, almost unbelievable, history. Yes, Venice has become tender and delicate but she's working hard to find a way to survive another thousand years.
There's so much talk of Venice becoming an amusement park or one big museum for the rich, those of us who love this special place often fear the worst. Our love and passion makes us hyper-sensitive.
Many people don't realize that, even with a dwindled population of 55,000 or so, the residents are numerous generations deep who try their best to protect centuries of folklore and tradition. This is no easy task considering mass tourism is the primary meal ticket and it takes a major toll on every aspect of everyday life. In spite of this, they care deeply about this fragile place and its tenuous future.
The comment about gondolieri and cell phones struck me as very odd. I imagined mitchdesj thinking the gondolieri worked for the amusement park (Disney) and how rude of them to behave in such a way in front of the park's customers. When, in fact, gondolieri are well respected locals, self-employed businessmen, who work very hard in a business that has been, more often than not, handed down from father to son. Why wouldn't each have his own phone in this day and age? After all, cell phone usage became <i>de rigueur</i> in Italy long before it hit the United States.
May 26th, 2004, 07:20 PM
#43
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So...what's your bite like? 
Good comments, NYC. At least Mitch enjoyed his visit and did say how beautiful and astounding Venice is. The people I don't understand are the ones who visit it and find <i>nothing</i> positive to say. I mean, regardless of the number of tourists or souvenir shops, how can one not be amazed at, if nothing else, the sight of the Grand Canal? I still vividly remember my first sight of it, from the steps of the train station; it looked surreal.
Good comments, NYC. At least Mitch enjoyed his visit and did say how beautiful and astounding Venice is. The people I don't understand are the ones who visit it and find <i>nothing</i> positive to say. I mean, regardless of the number of tourists or souvenir shops, how can one not be amazed at, if nothing else, the sight of the Grand Canal? I still vividly remember my first sight of it, from the steps of the train station; it looked surreal.
May 26th, 2004, 08:08 PM
#44
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<i>"I still vividly remember my first sight of it, from the steps of the train station; it looked surreal."</i>
I will never forget my very first glimpse, from the steps of the train station as tears of joy and astonishment ran down my cheeks. I get goose-pimply thinking about it.
It was early April just after Easter, around 1 PM. The temperature was a breezy 68 degrees. There were people everywhere and I'll never forget the dramatic sky - sun peaking out from vivid, storm-colored, cumulous clouds. The color palette of the entire scene was amazing, unlike anything I had ever seen before.
<i>"The people I don't understand are the ones who visit it and find nothing positive to say."</i>
None of them are my friends.
<i>"So...what's your bite like?"</i>
Soft and gentle teeth (so I've been told).
I will never forget my very first glimpse, from the steps of the train station as tears of joy and astonishment ran down my cheeks. I get goose-pimply thinking about it.
It was early April just after Easter, around 1 PM. The temperature was a breezy 68 degrees. There were people everywhere and I'll never forget the dramatic sky - sun peaking out from vivid, storm-colored, cumulous clouds. The color palette of the entire scene was amazing, unlike anything I had ever seen before.
<i>"The people I don't understand are the ones who visit it and find nothing positive to say."</i>
None of them are my friends.
<i>"So...what's your bite like?"</i>
Soft and gentle teeth (so I've been told).
May 27th, 2004, 06:26 AM
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Hi Mitch, generally I agree with your comments. Let's face it. Venice is a dying city. The population is shrinking and the city itself is sinking. It is supported by tourism. Yet, there still is everyday life there if you seek it. While it's nearly impossible to escape the tourists, on my last visit to Venice I discovered a few "real" corners of Venice, a wonderful very local restuarant and a delightful wine bar full of locals. In my opinion these places are few and far between.
May 27th, 2004, 06:44 AM
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If you want to see the locals in Venice, go to Rialto between 7am and 8am. It's fascinating to watch the taxis full of workers arrive, the boats ferrying supplies, the trash collectors with the big carts, even the many stacks of wine bottles to be recycled that are loaded. I'm an early riser, and witnessed this behive of activity each morning - a very special place, indeed. Seeing the sun rise over San Marco while standing in the empty piazza is a beautiful memory.
May 27th, 2004, 08:03 AM
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Yes, we wandered through the fish market one morning and it was fascinating. There seemed to be few tourists there. I felt bad that we couldn't buy anything, but we were staying in a hotel and had no cooking facilities.
May 27th, 2004, 08:31 AM
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We have been to Venice three times and love it.
Yes,it is touristy and there are pushy vendors but so there are in many other places. You just have to look higher.
Perhaps the first impression colors later views.
The first time we were in Venice we arrived in the late afternoon and after dinner we went to the Piazetta San Marco. The local band was playing a Verdi medley and the moon was over the Grand Canal. Venice has been magical ever since :-B
Yes,it is touristy and there are pushy vendors but so there are in many other places. You just have to look higher.
Perhaps the first impression colors later views.
The first time we were in Venice we arrived in the late afternoon and after dinner we went to the Piazetta San Marco. The local band was playing a Verdi medley and the moon was over the Grand Canal. Venice has been magical ever since :-B
May 27th, 2004, 06:12 PM
#49
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nyc, I've not felt judged by your comments;
I find everyone on this thread has brought good points to this discussion in a most civilized manner. I have appreciated the proclamations of love for Venice and I am one in this camp; perhaps my disappointment stemmed from the vivid contrast of intense beauty coupled with the harsh reality of the commercialism that is rampant there, I would love to see Venice totally unspoiled but that is asking for the impossible..... for then it would not be real.
Hopefully, on my next trip I'll be more open
and easy going. I live in Montreal where there are many contrasts in the city; I spend half the week in the busiest part of downtown and the other half in a more bucolic suburb setting, so it's not like I am too settled in my ways.
Thank you all for sharing your views....
I find everyone on this thread has brought good points to this discussion in a most civilized manner. I have appreciated the proclamations of love for Venice and I am one in this camp; perhaps my disappointment stemmed from the vivid contrast of intense beauty coupled with the harsh reality of the commercialism that is rampant there, I would love to see Venice totally unspoiled but that is asking for the impossible..... for then it would not be real.
Hopefully, on my next trip I'll be more open
and easy going. I live in Montreal where there are many contrasts in the city; I spend half the week in the busiest part of downtown and the other half in a more bucolic suburb setting, so it's not like I am too settled in my ways.
Thank you all for sharing your views....
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