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8-1/2 Weeks in France and Switzerland

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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 06:26 PM
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8-1/2 Weeks in France and Switzerland

We are in the process of planning an 8+ week trip to France and Switzerland, arriving July 15. We have been to France several times, always in two week increments, so this will be our first extended trip. We have been to the following places in the past: Paris, Chartres, Versailles, Lyon, Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Montpellier, the Luberon, Aix-en-Provence, the Haut Var, Nice, Antibes, Sarlat, Poitiers, the Loire Valley, Mont St Michel, and Honfleur.

Below is my first stab at an itinerary, with the amount of time planned for each location, followed by possible day trips. Paris is the only city that is city set in stone, as we already have booked an apartment. We aren't going to book the other places until we arrive. I plan to use this as a starting point, so if we decide on the fly to stay longer in some places, then we may stay less time at others.

We've limited Switzerland to 6 nights to keep down costs. I've intentionally left the coastal areas of Provence until September in order to beat the worst of the summer crowds. Also, if we don't get to those locations at all (because we have added time to the previous locations) that's OK, since we have spent some time in that region in the past.

I've tried to keep drive times for day trips down to less than 90 minutes each way, although many of the rural towns will group together into a logical loop. I see at least 4 bases that we could combine into two, but it would increase the travel time for day trips, so I'll play that by ear.

Our goal is to include variation in our itinerary, mixing larger cities with smaller towns, historic sights modern sights, natural beauty, etc. Given this, I would appreciate any feedback on any of the following questions:

1) Which two Paris day trips listed would you recommend? Any that I have not listed you would recommend instead?
2) Do you have a recommendation for a better base for the rural locations listed, given the day trips we are looking at?
3) Any recommendations on creating a more logical order of progression, still keeping the Provence coast at the end?
4) Are there any places near by my listed destinations that I have not mentioned that you would recommend we add?
5) Are there areas that you would include instead of something I have listed, that would give a greater variety, without adding a huge detour to the current route?


Itinerary is listed as follows: City, Department or Region, followed by number of nights, followed by location of possible day trips

Paris - 14 nights - Dijon; Rouen; Reims; Amiens; Rennes

Train to Bordeaux - 4 nights - St Emilion

Car to Gourdon (Dordogne, Lot) - 4 nights - Villefranche-du-perigord, Les Eyzies, Monflaquin, Monpazier, Belves, Limeuel, Collonges-la-Rouge, Curemonte, Carennac, Loubressac, Autoire

Car to Villefranche-de-Rouergue (Aveyron) - 4 nights - Belcastel, Sainte-Eulalie-d'Olt, Saint-Côme-d'Olt, Estaing, Conques, Capdenac, Figeac, Cordes su ciel, Monestiés, Najac (Bruniquel, Puycelci, Castelnau-de-Montmiral on way to Toulouse)

Car to Toulouse - 4 nights - Albi, Aerospatial tour

Car to Millau Viaduct - 0 nights - Peyre and Couvertoirade after bridge

Car to Aigues-Mortes - 1 nights

Car to Gigondas (Vaucluse, Gard) - 4 nights - Vaison la Romaine, Segueret, Beaumes de Venise, Le Barroux, Uzes, Lussan, La Roque-sur-Cèze, Grotte de la Salamandre, Saint-Privat-de-Champclos, Aiguèze

Car to Châteauneuf-en-Auxois (Cote d'Or, Yonne) - 4 nights - Auxerre, Chablis Vézelay, Noyers, Abbaye de Fontenay, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain, Beaune, Château du Clos de Vougeot, Abbaye de Cluny, Autun

Car to Colmar (Alsace) - 4 nights - Route des Vins

Train to Wengen (Berner Oberland) - 4 nights

Train to Montreux - 2 nights - Golden Pass Line

Train to Annecy - 1 night

Car to Lourges (Var) - 5 nights - Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, La Palud-sur-Verdon, Aups, Sillans-la-Cascade, Salernes, Abbaye du Thoronet, Gassin, Ramatuelle, Grimaud

Car to Eze (Alps-Maritimes) - 4 nights - Gordon, Coaraze, Saint-Agnes, Mandelieu-La Napoule, St-Paul de Vence

Sorry that this request is so long. Brevity has never been my strongest asset. ;-) Please answer as much or as little as you like. Any feedback at all is appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 07:50 PM
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First of all, congratulations - it is refreshing to hear about an extended trip, in light of the many posts here that talk about doing way too much in way too little time.

I may come back later and reread in detail, but for now, at first glance, just a few names I don't see on your list that I think should be there:

Missing in action:

Giverny (on the way to Rouen)

Beynac-et-Cazenac, Castelnau château-musée, http://castelnaud.com, (not the same as Montmiral), Fénelon www.chateau-fenelon.fr (Dordogne)
Carcassonne (!)

From Aigues Mortes drive down to Le Grau du Roi for a seaside dinner and a look at the statue of the lost fisherman’s widow

From Montreux take the mountain-goar of a train up to the wildflower paradise of Les Rochers de Naye - http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/roch...montreux.html- and www.mob.ch/en/goldenpass/offer/view?id=12

Also: Fold Dijon into the end of your Burgundy trip, on the way to Colmar.
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 07:52 PM
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Oops,. sorry, mountain-goat of a train...

And Carcassonne near Toulouse of course - read up on its history!
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 08:24 PM
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Thank you so much for your feedback, Michel! You have given me exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I did forget a few places we have been to in the past, namely Giverny, Beynac and Carcassone; however, everything else you mentioned will be new for us, so I will be sure to study further. I will also move Dijon to the Burgundy section, per your suggestion.

Merci!
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 08:48 PM
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Oh, I envy your travel window!

I don't have time right now to go through your itinerary, but because we have an established overlap, you might find some value in my relevant thread:
My trip report for Switzerland:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...any-thanks.cfm

I didn't file a trip report on my time(s) in France, but this thread captures my itinerary, a LOT of great input, and a final comment:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-itinerary.cfm

I'll try to look through your plan when I can, but I'm a bit crunched just now...

No bad choices, just hard ones!
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 09:21 PM
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Hi russ-in_LA,

Oh dear, I do disagree with michelhuebeli about what to do on your only full day in Montreux --

Since you'll have 4 nights in Wengen to see the big Alps and to soak up those Alpine views and the Alpine & lake views, I wouldn't do Rochers-de-Naye from Montreux. Instead, I would spend my time doing the things that are unique to Montreux; I would spend the time at the lakeside, and I would soak up some of the unique French/Swiss atmosphere.

I would walk along the flowered lakeside promenade (45 minutes) to the castle of Chillon, and maybe spend 2h touring the inside if you like that kind of thing. If you enjoyed the walk along the lake, continue on to Villeneuve (another 45 minutes) and have lunch in Villenevue.

Then take bus #201 from Villeneuve all the way to Vevey, and spend a few hours getting lost in the tangled streets of its old town, right next to the lake. Then take the train to either Chexbres or Lutry and walk downhill to the lake, through the vineyards of the Lavaux. Lutry is an inviting Medieval town, with a sign-posted walking tour of its interesting buildings. There are also some wine caves you can visit & sample from at Chexbres and Lutry and many other vineyard villages. Have dinner someplace in the Lavaux with views over the vineyards and the lake.

Then take the train back to Montreux.

Your hosts will give you a Riviera Card, making bus & train transport free from Villeneuve to Montreux to Vevey. You would only have to pay for the transport to/around the Lavaux.

Have fun as you plan!

s
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Old Jan 10th, 2017, 10:55 PM
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Thanks everyone for the additional info! I'll go over it thoroughly in the morning.

FYI, a few more places we've been to that I forgot to metion include: La Roque-Gageac, Domme, St Cirq-La Poppie and Peche Merle, as well as Fontvieielle, Orange, St Remy, Les Baux and Eygalieres, and also Antibes, Menton, Tour Tour, Entrecasteaux, and Cotignac.
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 07:19 AM
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swandav2000's suggestions for Montreux on The Swiss Riviera are wonderful - a few centuries ago I went to school in Montreux for six months and have been back many times since, so I know what swandav2000 is talking about - so I think Russ just simply needs to add a night and a day in Montreux - problem solved

As a tradeoff, take an early train, like the 06:20, from Montreux to Annecy, you're there by 09:29 - get your car, drive around the lake and resume your program to what you spelled as Lourges but is really Lorgues, right?

You'll be there long before nightfall, even with a nap along the way, so you don't need the night in Annecy.
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 07:41 AM
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Wow, michelhuebeli -- so did I! I was at Monte Rosa in . . . (hate to say it) 1968.

s
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 08:11 AM
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As you will do your whole trip by car, there is no need to change to trains in Switzerland.
Why not visit the places in Switzerland that are better done by car than by train:

SWITZERLAND BY CAR

It's perfectly possible to visit tons of gems in Switzerland by car, without boarding any train (between June and October, when all mountain roads are open).

But if you want to visit Switzerland by car, don’t choose just the places that can NOT be reached by car (like Muerren, Gimmelwald, Wengen, Schynige Platte, Schilthorn, First, Kleine Scheidegg, Maennlichen, Rigi, Pilatus, Bettmeralp, Zermatt, Braunwald, etc). Otherwise you will have to pay for both: car rental, fuel (about 8 USD per US gallon/3,85 litres) AND mountain railways.

There are tons of beautiful places in the Swiss Alps which can be reached by car. Some suggestions:

Drive from Martigny to Col de la Gueulaz on Lake Emosson (2000m/6600ft). You are then just in front of the Northern side of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain chain of Western Europe. The glaciers of Trient, Tour, Argentiere as well as the peaks of Aiguille d'Argentiere (3900m/13000ft), Aiguille Verte (4120m/13500ft), Grandes Jorasse (4210m/13800ft), Mont Blanc (4810m/15800ft) ar jus a few miles away.

Drive from Martigny to Grand St Bernard Pass (2470m/8100ft) and hike in 1 hr to La Chenalette (2800m/9200ft). From there, you have a stupendous view to the Southern side of Mont Blanc (A Neuve Glacier, Dolent Glacier, Pre de Bar Glacier, Triolet Glacier as well as a lot of 3800 to 4800m / 13000 to 15800ft high peaks). In the South, but farther away, you see the glaciers and peaks of the Gran Paradiso chain.
A easy, but very scenic 6hrs circular hike goes from Col du Gd St-Bernard via Col des Chevaux - Lake Petit Le - Col de Bastillon to the 3 blue mountain lakes of Fenetre and then over the Col de Fenetre de Ferret back to Col du Gd St-Bernard.

Drive from Sion to Col du Sanetsch (2250m/7400ft) and hike in about 2 hrs to Refuge/Restaurant La Quille du Diable on Tsanfleuron Glacier (2900m/9500ft). You are there on the top of a perpendicular cliff and can look down to Lake Derborence, just 1500m/5000ft below your feet. Stupendous view to Mont Blanc chain, Grand Combin, Mont Collon and tons of other peaks.

Drive from Sierre to Grimentz and then up to the end of the road on Lake Moiry (2250m/7400ft) and hike then in about 1 hr to Moiry hut (Swiss Alpine club) and Moiry Glacier.

Drive from Brig to Ried-Moerel, go by gondola to Riederalp (5 CHF/one way), hike in 1/2 hr to Riederfurka (2070m/6800ft), visit the visitor's centre/museum of the Jungfrau-Aletsch Nature reserve, walk through the Aletsch Forest and have a look at the Aletsch Glacier (longest glacier of Europe) just below and in front of you.

Drive to Breuil-Cervinia (Italian neighbourhood, 2000m/6500ft) and go by cableway to Plateau Rosa (28 EUR/35 USD roundtrip). Plateau Rosa (3500m/11500ft) is close to Matterhorn Paradise/Kleinmatterhorn (1 mile away, same panorama). The roundtrip ticket from Taesch Parking to Matterhorn Paradise costs 107 CHF/112 USD

Drive to Grimsel Pass (2200m/7200ft) and hike in about 1 1/2 hr to Sidelhorn (2800m/9200ft). Panoramic views to Unteraar Glacier, Oberaar Glacier, 6 mountain lakes around Grimsel Pass, Finsteraarhorn (4300m/14100ft) and dozens of other peaks. You may also hike from Grimsel Pass to Lake Oberaar (1 hr) and along this lake to Oberaar Glacier (another hr).
Drive then from Grimsel Pass to Furka Belvedere and visit the Ice cave in the Rhone Glacier.
Another road in the same area goes to Nufenenpass/Griessee. The hike from the end of the road to Lake Griessee - Gries Pass - Gries Glacier takes about 1 1/2 hrs.

Drive from Davos or St. Moritz to Stelvio Pass (2800m/9200ft). Hike to the glaciers (1 hr or so) or enjoy the view to them from Piz da las Trais Linguas (3 languages peak; 2850m/9400ft).

etc. etc.

But if you prefer to ride with Glacier Express, Bernina Express, Golden Pass Panoramic, etc. and if you want to visit Gornergrat and Jungfraujoch, you better look after rail passes.

You may have a look at
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/home.html
http://www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en/

As to your Dordogne and Vaucluse legs, I miss the grottes de Lascaux and Chauvet (already in Ardeche, however).
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 08:41 AM
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@kja: I remember your excellent Switzerland trip report! I will be sure to consult it again for tips.

@swandav2000 and michelhuebeli: These are great suggestions. I may just delete the Annecy night and add a night in Montreux.

Question: When I checked the SBB website for train connections to Annecy, I noticed that the train goes to Geneva, at which point there is a bus to Annemasse, and then a change back to a train or another bus to Annecy. I was thinking I might just pick the car up in Annemasse, drive to Annecy, and then continue to Lorgues. I checked rates and they are the same as picking up the car in Annecy. Do you have an opinion on that idea?Thanks!
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 08:54 AM
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Sure, the sooner you have your wheels, as long as you rent them in France to avoid any cross-border fees - even from the French side of the Geneva airport, the better, it's only 50km to Annecy, or thereabouts. Trains go from Montreux to GVA airport without a need for changing in Geneva (city). The 06:20 I mentioned gets there by 07:39 - just make sure the rental offices are open.

Google this string:

Location de voiture Aéroport de Genève côté français

( = Car rental Geneva airport French side - As you may know, the French word "location" means rental, not place)
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 08:57 AM
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Russ, pardon the crossfire -
@swandav - Institut Chabloz 1958
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 09:06 AM
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mh: Coolcool!

s
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 09:11 AM
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Train to Wengen (Berner Oberland) - 4 nights

Train to Montreux - 2 nights - Golden Pass Line

Train to Annecy

Even with a few days some kind of Swiss Pass may be beneficial - covers trains to Wengen, Grindelwald, Laurterbrunnen and Murren in fulla as well as GP and gives 50% off most gondolas to mountain tops - covers lake boats too -sweet floats on two lakes bookending Interlaken and Lake Geneva-for lots of info on Swiss trains and passes check www.swisstravelsystem.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

can also consider a Half-Fare Card.
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 09:50 AM
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@neckervd: I was not aware of the Chauvet caves in Ardeche, but will definitely be trying to make it there. I just googled them and "Wow", how could I have not known about these?! Thanks for the driving in Switzerland info. I will be using trains in there, but it's good to know.

@michelhuebeli: I didn't even think about picking up the car at the Geneva airport (*hits forehead with palm*)! I just checked rates and it adds only $4 per day to pick up at the airport, so about $40 total, and it saves 1.5 hours and two transportation changes to Annecy. Fantastic!

@PalenQ and neckervd: Thanks for the links!

Getting answers to questions that I never thought to ask is one of the reasons why I love soliciting info on this forum. Thank you!
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 02:34 PM
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neckervd, thanks for the driving suggestions, I need to get a map to see which ones we have not done, I LOVE Switzerland!
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 02:44 PM
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try to drive some Alpine passes - a real treat but not for Nervous Nellies.
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 07:28 PM
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Finally, some time to offer comments beyond those you might find in the links provided upthread!

FWIW, I was glad to have about 1.5 days in Rouen and an overnight in delightful Rennes.

Re: Wengen: The views can be stunning, but I would encourage you to be sure you book a hotel that offers a really good view. I tried skimping and regret it.

Re: your time in Montreux: I was very glad I went to Les Rochers de Naye and to Chateau Chillon, and am glad I stopped briefly in Glion en route. But I was not enamored of Montreux, and found an hour or so strolling Vevey one evening before dinner sufficient for my interests. I did enjoy walking the Lavaux vineyards above Autry and was glad I spent time in Lausanne (which is, IMO, vastly underrated). How to fit it all in? Well, it’s your job to figure that out!

Hope that helps!
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Old Jan 11th, 2017, 07:41 PM
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Russ, you might even want to take lodgings in one of the two places above Montreux, majestically looking down and across at the French and Swiss Alps (Mont Blanc etc.).

Much nicer than staying down in Montreux, unless you can afford a lakeview suite with balconey...

Those two places are Glion (mentioned above by kja) and Caux.

Both are on the train line that goes up to Les Rochers de Naye.
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