Capo

I read an article entitled "In the Shoes of the Fisherman" in the February 2002 issue of Conde Nast Traveler this past weekend. The author's assignment was to discover "the perfect Mediterranean fishing village", and he said that the ingredients for perfection were: charm in abundance, a pretty waterfront, an active fishing fleet, a lively fish market and good seafood restaurants, and not "too messed up" by tourism. (He noted that while all of these things are to be found in different places on the Meditteranean, they aren't very easily found all in the same place.)<BR><BR>With that in mind these are the seven fishing villages he mentioned in the article (not all of them possessed every single ingredient): Cambrils & Cadaques (Spain), Port-Vendres, Collioure, & Sete (France), and Camogli & Ponza (Italy). <BR><BR>I'd wanted to get to Cadaques, when in Barcelona a few years ago, but never made it, and I've other good things about Collioure, which the author said is "without a doubt", one of the Mediterranean's six most spectacular fishing villages. (I also hadn't known that the Fauvist painters -- people such as Matisse, Derain, Braque, and Dufy -- had made Collioure their summmer headquarters early in the twentieth century. <BR><BR>If anyone here has been to any of these seven villages, I'd be curious to know what your impressions were. Thanks!

Karen

Several summers ago, we went to Colliore for a little rest and relaxation at the end of a 2 week tour of France. We loved it. In fact, we were only planning to stay 2 days and once there, we changed our plans so we could stay longer. I can really understand why the impresssionists came to this area to paint. In fact, present day artists continue to make this small town their home. The setting was charming by the water, the beach was inviting and there was a castle to explore. There were also lots of interesting artist workshops which I really enjoy. On each trip, I try to bring home some art that reminds me of the area and in Colliore we bought a small watercolor and I still enjoy it. Also, this is an town to relax and recharge in so it was a great break from sightseeing. I have fond memories and would like to return.

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Hello Capo, I have only been to 3 of the 7 that he selected, but I am not sure about the validity of the selection process. I found Cadaques to be too commercial for my taste, and I greatly prefer Portovenere to Camogli. I have made it a point to hit fishing villages on the coast on many of my trips and the most authentic I have found is Porto Cesaro in Puglia---the heel of Italy. But, writers have to make a living too, so take it all with a grain of salt and enjoy.

canuck

Bob..would be interested to know if you recommend any such seaside villages in Spain other than the ones mentioned?

Shain

Hi Capo,<BR>my suggestions are a bit closer to nature and history:<BR>France - Honfleur/Deauville<BR>you will find it at the engl. channel, close to Le Havre. The wonderful white<BR>rocks(up to 50m tall) the always fresh, strong breeze from the "Biscaya Gulf"<BR>and the extraordinary fresh seefood that is served here. I mean its so fresh, they are just boiled on a minimum. And don't miss the white wine or "Blanc de Blanc" Chardonnay or Sauvignons. And after it this part of France is home of the "Calvados".<BR>A tasty degustive, and try it on a<BR>"crepes"(thin pancake), with apricot jam!<BR>For italy I found the northern top a<BR>the sardinic island a wild romatic place. Close to Palau I have a wonderful time at the Hotel Capo D'Orso.<BR>You smell the Olive- and Pinetrees in which the small hideway has been integrated. You can take a boat and go out for one of the dozens small uninhabitated rocky islands and be just for yourself or whoevers is with you.And always a warm, not to strong <BR>breezes refreshes especially in August!<BR>Spain:<BR>For me the magnificient places is the <BR>wild, again still undiscover westcoast of Fuerteventura, canary island.<BR>Just take a jeep and stroll along the endless beaches. Still even today there are not many tourists, as they all housed at hotels on the calm east side of the island. It is a relaxing gold-yellow-blue color that awaits you there.<BR>Always clear blue sky and water (with big waves) and always moving sandunes or<BR>beaches. Take yourself or your girl for a picnic there, youll never forget it.<BR>More infoes - email me.<BR>Shain/EU/germany/D&uuml;sseldorf<BR>

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Hello Canuck, If we disregard the criteria of the article, my favorite coastal villages in Spain are Nerja and Peniscola--near Valencia. The Parador at Aiglablava makes a good base to explore the Costa Brava. Good luck !

r

I have nothing to add but am so enjoying this thread.... sigh. I'd love to be sipping my Calvados in Honfleur right now and feeling those fresh breezes.<BR>Hoping that topping it will bring in some more dreamy landscapes and good travel adventures.

Capo

Thanks for the comments so far. <BR><BR>Bob, with a grain of salt, absolutely! I'd never claim this, or any, writer has the definitive answer on what villages (or cities) are "perfect." Anyway, I appreciate your mention of Portovenere. <BR><BR>Shain, although I've yet to visit it and want to some day, I'm familiar with Honfleur and it certainly sounds nice...but this article caught my attention since I'm eventually planning on driving along the Mediterranean from Barcelona to Rome (and perhaps further south), exploring small villages along the way.

russ i

Capo,<BR><BR>I read that article with interest as well. Once, I made a long weekend out of visiting just about every village between Camogli and Portovenere. Although I enjoyed them all, I think that including an active fishing fleet in the criteria knocked out Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, all of the Cinque Terre and even Portovenere, all of which are at least as charming as Comolgli, if certainly more touched by tourism.

Maribel

Hi Capo, <BR>Also read the article and actually saved it. I'm with BOB the NAV; Cadaques is too commerical and laid-back bohemian for me. We also loved Portovenere but have never made it to Camogli. We're headed to Collioure for 3 nights in late June-can hardly wait to return. It's the best! As for great seaside villages in Spain on the east coast, my top vote goes to Aiguablava in the upscale and pretty area of Pals-Palafruguell-Begur (also headed there right before Collioure). Also agree about Peniscola. On the Bay of Biscay Basque coast, we love, love, love Hondarribia and across the border in Pays Basque, atmospheric St. Jean de Luz. In Galicia we like Muros and Cambados. <BR>I have a guide called "Pueblos pescadores con encanto", a collection of the most charming fishing villages in Spain, and tiny Cudillero, tinier Tazones and much larger Llanes in Asturias on the Bay of Biscay are given 4 stars, Llanes 3. This lesser known coastal area of Green Spain is a truly lovely destination too, with the sea and the majestic Picos de Europa in the background.

Sue

Collioure is charming, and I second what Karen wrote about it; very similar experience. Instead of buying pictures, I bought a couple of posters advertising some art exhibits and had them framed. I was happy to see the article in the CNT b/c seems as tho that part of France doesn't get a lot of publicity. Maybe better that way!

Julie

Collioure is on my list of places to visit when we are in Mediterranean France next month. We've only got a week to do the stretch from Nice (starting there with our rental car) to Collioure and are wondering how much time to devote to it. From what I've read Rousillon is definitely more our style than the Cote d'Azur, but we are not just interested in a seaside place to rest and relax for several days; we are more active and would like to do some hiking or sightseeing in other local areas too. With that info in mind and considering the fact that it will be February, how much time do you think Collioure is worth? We are also interested in seeing Perpignan and Carcassonne in the same general vicinity.

Gail

Any hotel recommendations ($100 or less) in Collioure? Sounds pretty perfect to me....<BR><BR>Thanks.<BR><BR>And Shain - Please keep posting! You have a way of putting us *right there* with your colorfully descriptive language....