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-   -   7 nights - Rome or Lago Como? (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/7-nights-rome-or-lago-como-825652/)

ekscrunchy Feb 12th, 2010 04:05 AM

My comments are only that you most certainly do not need to leave 3 hours for international check-in in Milan. And that I would check with the hotel just to see what rate they can offer for a taxi to Malpensa. I do think a taxi is a prudent use of your money as it will allay the anxiety of those connections. Consider, too, the option of staying on the western shore of the lake, in Menaggio or around Tremezzo/Lenno.

Big_Red Feb 13th, 2010 05:22 AM

For town of Como to Bellagio there are two and one half options.
#1) Bus - Check the SPT website. If google does not find SPT, then the larioonline website has a link to the SPT website.
#2) Boat
A) Regular boat - about two hours
B) High speed boat - about one hour

flygirl Feb 13th, 2010 05:53 AM

Swagman

Another possibility - consider crossing the lake for your last night and stay in Lenno. Albergo Lenno is directly across from the ferry stop and it's a nice hotel. The waterfront setting is beautiful and there are a few good restaurants right on the water. You could spend your last day visiting Villa Balbianello (either a long-ish but beautiful walk from Lenno, or, a short walk to the boat stop to take you there) and make that hotel your base for that day. You could also visit Villa Carlotta from Lenno pretty easily.

http://www.albergolenno.com/eng/

Try to get an upper level room with balcony (or any room facing the lake with a balcony).

I think the drive Lake Como-MXP is easier from the west side of the lake - it would be shorter that morning as you'd have the lake crossing out of the way from the day before and a slightly shorter drive overall.

I just recently finished posting a trip report which included Lake Como, so if you click on my name and click on the trip report entitled "Hannah Belle..." you will see some details and some photos of Lake Como and a few villas if you are interested. Lake Como is one of my favorite places, full stop.

swagman Feb 13th, 2010 03:04 PM

Thank you for all your advice to date.

Re train transfer from Milano Centrale - is it better to train to Como town or Varenna? Which is the quicker trip or perhaps more scenic?

I chose to stay in Bellagio because it is our first time to Lago Como and we only have 4 nights, thought we should stay somewhere centrally located to get a feel of the area for future visits. Currently I am choosing between Hotel Florence and Hotel Belvedere, any comments?

But I have taken on board your advice to consider staying on the western side of the lake. Hence I have emailed the pro-driver to see if he has any preference in terms of pick up point and advice on traffic for an early Monday morning ride to MXP.

ekscrunchy, I loath arriving at airports too early as there is really nothing to do but to wait for one's flight. However I will still allow a bit more time as I am not familiar with the trip to MXP plus I am sure my wife will certainly have to de-tax her purchases!! We have been to MXP once, but cannot recall the location of the de-tax office, do you know?

flygirl, amazing photos! I particular like the ones of Varenna, it is a wonderful view from the Eremo Gaudio. Love your car too! Must have been an amazing experience driving open top on the autobarn and autostrada, hope it didn't mess up your hair!!

You took the seaplane over the lake, I don't think there is a better way to see the area, do you remember how much it costs you? Also where did you take that from?

Once again, many many thanks for all your feedback and input.

s

Big_Red Feb 14th, 2010 07:51 AM

For your first question (Varenna or Como) it depends on the amount of luggage and time of day you arrive. If you arrive via Como then you have a pleasant boat ride up to Bellagio. There are fast boats (40 mintues, non opening windows, no open air decks). There are slow boats (2 hours). Last boat out of Como is 7:00pm. I would think Como to Bellagio will provide the more scenic. The Como to Midlake ride is probably the most scenic of the three leags of the lake. If you arrive via Varenna, then it is short 12- 15 minute ferry hop to Bellagio.

Bellagio is fine choice. Can't give guidance about hotels. Try to get a lakeview/lakefront if possible. We like to walk from Bellagio to the little village of Pescallo. If you do this, the foot path is far easier than following the road. Take your camera to Pescallo.

The seaplanes are based in Como.

NYCFoodSnob Feb 14th, 2010 08:56 AM

<i><font color=#777777>"I think the drive Lake Como-MXP is easier from the west side of the lake"</font></i>

Via Regina (SS340) has the most traffic while Statale Lariana (SS583) has less. If one is going to MXP by car from Bellagio, one could argue the trip is faster if you remain on the east side of the lake, which is what most car services/taxis will do from Bellagio.

IMO, unless you wish to take the "local" ferry to Bellagio, which is also the longest ride, no other option provides what I would call a "scenic" choice. The windows on the high-speed hydrofoil are cloudy. I find them annoying. It seems the hydrofoil's only purpose is to get you there quickly. (One hour Como-Bellagio.)

The very efficient train ride to Varenna does get prettier once the lake comes into view as you enter Lecco. But I wouldn't call this view "scenic" because foliage blocks the view. Plus, Varenna is a quick 15 minutes from Lecco, so there's very little time to gather your luggage and make sure you're near the door to exit. These trains do not permit casual exits. You have very few seconds to get off the train before the doors shut. If you miss the opportunity, you'll add another 90 minutes onto your arrival time.

NYCFoodSnob Feb 14th, 2010 08:59 AM

I also meant to add, with only four nights, I would stay put in one place and enjoy what you can. No matter what anybody on this board says, Bellagio is an absolutely lovely town with lots to see and do and fun places to eat. Tons of charm.

swagman Feb 14th, 2010 12:12 PM

Thx Big_Red and NYCFS

Can you tell me how far is the ferry from Como S Giov station? Given we will be fast training all the way from Rome, we will want to get to our destination asap, so the fast ferry will probably be our choice.

The pro-driver has gotten back to me, it's a longer ride to MXP from Varenna. From the other towns, it's much the same, approx 2 hrs. He also suggests for 1st timers, Bellagio is the place to be.

s

NYCFoodSnob Feb 14th, 2010 07:14 PM

<i><font color=#777777>"Can you tell me how far is the ferry from Como S Giov station?"</font></i>

It's about a 20-30 minute walk, depending on your struggle with luggage. The train station is near Via Tolomeo Gallio, which turns into Via Giuseppe Garibaldi. Bear left onto Via Fratelli Cairoli. Turn right on Lungo Lario Trento. The ferry docks are near Via Caio Plinio Secondo. You can't miss them. If I have heavy luggage, I call for a taxi. The taxi phone numbers are on advertising signs at the station. It's a ridiculous taxi ride, I know, but I refuse to struggle with luggage on Italy's streets. I usually travel alone. Sometimes, you get lucky and a taxi will be there waiting.

<i><font color=#777777>"it's a longer ride to MXP from Varenna."</font></i>

Varenna sits a little further north and east of Bellagio. Como (the town) and Bellagio are closer to MXP than Varenna.

Getting to Bellagio quickly by public transportation will always depend on the schedules. The Milan-Como trip is one schedule, the Como-Bellagio hydrofoil is another. If these schedules don't marry well, this trip could easily take you longer than Milano Centrale-Varenna-Ferry to Bellagio. Speed and efficiency will always depend on whether the schedules work in your favor.

<i><font color=#777777>"He also suggests for 1st timers, Bellagio is the place to be."</font></i>
I would agree. Such a comment can fuel a serious debate on this board. There are plenty of threads that offer my-choice-is-better-than-your-choice battles. Personally, my favorite town is Varenna. But I've gotten to know Lake Como really well and my camera says the views from Varenna are the most dramatic of all. For me, it's all about the best views. But I seriously love the charm and upscale nature of Bellagio. The sun sets on both Bellagio and Varenna so you can't go wrong with either.

swagman Feb 14th, 2010 09:31 PM

Thanks NYCFoodSnob for your great advice.

Do you have the link to the Como-Bellagio hydrofoil timetable?

I'll probably opt for taxi between the train station and the ferry wharf. Knowing my better half, we'll have a suitcase plus shopping from Rome. I wouldn't want to roll them through narrow Italian streets!

I know Varenna is beautiful. flygirl has a great photo, taken from her hotel balcony,

http://www.flickr.com/photos/skywalk...7606784813653/

I am glad you agree with my decision to stay in Bellagio on our first visit. I am sure we will return so this trip will give us a taste of Como and surrounds and find our favourite spot for future visits.

In terms of hotel, I made an online search on the Hotel Metropole website last night, there were still rooms available but when I did it again this morning, some 12 hours later, the search returned negative, no rooms left. I have since emailed them to make a direct enquiry. Hope they respond favourably.

s

Jean Feb 14th, 2010 10:09 PM

Here's the link to the ferry schedule. You'll have to check again in April for the summer schedule.

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/eng/com/nlc_ora.html

I also prefer the views from Varenna but recommend sleeping in Bellagio for the first-time visitor.

flygirl Feb 15th, 2010 04:16 AM

Swagman, thanks for the compliments on my photos! The one in particular was taken from the balcony of the Eremo Gaudio, which was reco'd to me by NYCFoodSnob herself. We've stayed there twice now. If you don't stay at this hotel, you absolutely must must take the time to at least have a drink from its terrace. The location/view/peacefulness - utterly divine.

NYCFoodSnob - I based my comment on the drive based on if Swagman actually stayed the last night in Lenno. I agree, if he's in Bellagio the night before - don't cross the lake the next morning. I thought back when I was asking your advice about the Lake that in general the western drive is easier - but that you want to be there already.

Lake Como is heaven on earth to me, as trite as that sounds. I simply love it there. In fact we just changed our summer vacation plans from the UK, to another trip to Lake Como and Venice (another place after my heart).

NYCFoodSnob Feb 15th, 2010 08:26 AM

<i><font color=#777777>"I'll probably opt for taxi between the train station and the ferry wharf."</font></i>

To see the walk path with precision, go to http://www.bing.com/maps/. In the top Bing url window, type Como San Giovanni, Lombardy, Italy. The default view is Road. Click on Aerial, then click on Bird's Eye. The walkway through the park is called Viale Tokamachi. Follow the directions I provided above. Just to the east of Piazza Cavour, you can see the square building that looks like it's floating on water. That's the ticket office.

You can't be intimidated by calling a taxi. Simply ask the person on the phone if they speak English. Almost all dispatchers speak a little English. If you don't have a GSM cell phone, you'll need to figure out the Italian pay phones. Calling cards are the easiest form of payment. The taxi ride is five minutes.

<i><font color=#777777>"Varenna is beautiful. flygirl has a great photo"</font></i>

Ms. Fly is fly. Generous, too.

<i><font color=#777777>"the (hotel)search returned negative"</font></i>

I never rely on internet bookings or email to secure a must-have room. International calling cards are so inexpensive these days. I always call the hotel directly.

<i><font color=#777777>"I based my comment on the drive based on if Swagman actually stayed the last night in Lenno."</font></i>

Yes, Lenno is further south, making it slightly closer to MXP. I love Lenno but, IMO, it's a jewel one reserves after the other jewels are experienced first.

violetduck Feb 15th, 2010 09:17 AM

I believe Northwest required us to be at

violetduck Feb 15th, 2010 09:21 AM

In Sept, 2009 Northwest, out of Amsterdam, required us to check in 3 hours prior to flight. Be sure to check if it is
2 or 3 hours.

chocobon Feb 15th, 2010 10:13 AM

I'd vote for Rome because of the huge amount of local congestion in and around the lakes. I have been only once and although it is absolutely breathtaking, the time it took to drive from Milan to the lakes was a waste of precious holiday time. The traffic in April on a weekend was bumper to bumper and the traffic was so bad that we parked the car ON the highway from time to time which is what all of the locals do! If you were going in OFF season it would be pleasant, however, July it will be PACKED with vacationers! I'd spend the time in Rome. There is ALWAYS so much to see and discover! ENJOY!

NYCFoodSnob Feb 15th, 2010 10:41 AM

<i><font color=#777777>"I have been only once"</font></i>

And here lies the problem of taking internet advice too seriously. A one time visit does not constitute an absolute. It's more like an anomaly. I have been to Lake Como for the past four summers. High season. July, August and September. I stay for a minimum of three weeks each visit. I have never been in a traffic jam as the one chocobon has described. I'm not saying such things don't happen. Car accidents do happen in Italy and many highways are only two lanes.

Before my first trip to Lake Como, I read many reports about terrible traffic on Via Regina. Looking back, I'd say now those posters deserved to be ignored. I've yet to experience bad traffic in and around Lake Como. But, then again, I drive in NYC. These things are all relative. In all my weekend photos of Lake Como, I managed to shoot every street without a car on it. That's impossible in NYC unless you're shooting on Christmas morning or on Saturday morning during the Jewish holidays.

Morning rush hour to MXP will be considered by your car service. They will ask for flight times and tell you what time is pick-up. Italian car service drivers to MXP know how to work around traffic jams. They know the side streets.

swagman Feb 15th, 2010 12:00 PM

You are right NYCFoodSnob, it's all about matching the schedules. According to the ferry timetable link Jean so kindly provided, the fast ferry we'll be after leaves at 16.00 but we arrive at Como S G at 13.43, so a full 2-hour wait plus another hour on the hydrofoil. As I said before, after a 3 hour trip up from Rome, we will certainly want to get to Bellagio asap.

But as Jean pointed out, the ferry schedule is for winter, I shall check the summer schedule upon its release.

So a better connection is actually to Varenna Esino, an extra half hour train ride from Como S G but ferries to Bellagio are more regular and a shorter ride.

Hotel Florence has replied with availability. I will double check with them if the room is air-conditioned, we may need it for the summer heat! I am still waiting for a reply from Metropole.

Thank you all again!

s

swagman Feb 15th, 2010 12:01 PM

PS Given it is only mid-Feb, the hotels may still be in shut-down mode.

NYCFoodSnob Feb 15th, 2010 12:30 PM

Patience is a virtue that no trip planner seems to possess. :-)

Most Lake Como hotels are closed in the winter. Emails may take two to three days to answer.

The summer ferry schedule begins on 24 May. Last year's schedule offered a 13.30 and 14.20 <i>Servizio Rapido</i>. There's a 14.00 on Sundays. I doubt your 13.43 arrival time is reliable this early in the year. You'll have plenty of time to figure this all out as you get closer to your departure date.


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