7 Days in Venice?
 

My how things change....

My husband and I had planned to take a trip to Positano and Capri for 10 Days May 2005 using Delta Frequent Flyer tickets. Since Delta suggested flying into Venice and onto Naples, my heart was set on staying in Venice a couple of days. Hubby was against it - too rushed.

Since last week, we have adopted a sweet, lively little 12-wk old kitten, a joy to us after losing our beloved 18 year old cat.

Both of us have already grown attached to her, and cannot bear to think of leaving her for more than a week.

Knowing my strong desire to see Venice, my husband suggested we do Positano and Capri on another trip, and do Venice for a week - yeah!

It may sound long to some, but we can side trip - Verona sounds nice - is this a good side trip? And also do Burano, Murano, Torcello, etc. With the 2 travel days at either end, it is really not all that long.

In any case, I am still struggling with which Sestiere to base in. We have decided to rent an apartment rather than do a hotel,for a more relaxing experience.

I must have 15 books on Venice now, and I still cannot get a true sense of the sestieres. I know everyone has different opinions and likes and dislikes.

What we would love to find is an area similar to Isle de la Cite?Isle St. Louis in Paris - we love the "feel" of that area. Not glitzy, compact and full on interesting bookshops, food stores, the bird market, the flower market, artists, gardens, Notre Dame, the Siene and Bauteau Mouche - we loved it there. Just strolling around.

Since we will be in an apartment, we would like an area that we could walk to a market or grocery, perhaps a newstand, and cafes for coffee in the AM. Similarly, we would like to have inexpensive trattoria nearby at night for dinner, and (yes, it's asking too much), not be in an area too remote or too touristy.

We want a sense of intimacy and charm, with lots of little alleyways and canals and artisan shops. Nothing highbrow - I could care less about designer shops and expensive restaurants. Similar to Paris, we did not care for the area near the Opera House - too uppity and ritzy, and were glad we stayed were we did on the Left Bank.

I've been reading alot about San Polo, and it sounds interesting, but it may be too touristy (??)

p.s. For another comparison, if anyone knows NYC, we loved Greenwich Village - hated Soho and the crowds - found it an odd mix of super, super expensive stores in a not so nice looking area. We liked Nolita even less, and HATED Times Square.

Wanderer, I can agree with seven days in Venice since we are going back next spring for a week, as well.

We previously stayed in the San Polo area and really enjoyed it. From your description of what you are looking for, that area might be one you want to look into. We found that San Polo was not too far from the sights, yet was quiet and had more locals around most of the time.

We were in an apartment right next to Campo San Aponal and it was nice because of the convenience to one of the three Venetian grocery stores, as well as a few relaxing campos, the Rialto fish market, etc. We also found it to be a quiet area.

So, San Polo might be an area that you want to look into, but bear in mind that you would probably want to be on the side closer to Dorsoduro, rather than closer to the Rialto Bridge.

Sounds great.

My two tips regarding stays in Venice would be:

Break up the time in Venice with a day trip to Padua (St. Anthony, botanical gardens, etc.). And, catch the late night vaporetto (#1) when you can get a stern seat and take it all the way out to the Lido and back.

Hi W,

Well, good for you!

I also suggest the San Polo area.

PS,

You might want to rethink the apartment.

www.venere.com has a double at the Hotel Marconi, right next to the Rialto Bridge, for 85E/night w/bkfst.

I would think that what you do NOT want is a hotel right next to the Rialto Bridge. On a much smaller scale, of course, but it's more like the Times Square than the Greenwich Village of Venice. Every day-tripper in Venice goes by it, the streets leading to and from it are jammed from morning till night, the shops are mostly chintzy souvenir shops, and the vaporetto stops are the most crowded in the city, so much so that you may have to wait for the second or third one to come along to able to board it.

Please do yourself a favour and stay away from anywhere close to the Rialto Bridge!

I'm sorry but I wouldn't stay any longer than one day in Venice. I didn't enjoy it one bit, St.Marks Square was crowded, the restaurants overcharged and the food was bland, the gondoliers looked tired of tourists, and as it was summer, the waters smelt of sewerage.
The best part was walking all the back lanes well away from St.Marks Square.
Personally, I would stay the whole time on the Amalfi Coast.

Venice is absolutely wonderful and seven days sounds great. Based on your description of what you like and what you would like to avoid, I think an apartment in the Dorsoduro area would meet your needs. It is centrally located but less hectic and with more of a remote feeling. We haven't stayed in an apartment in Venice but that is the impression I got last time we visited.

Lucky, lucky you! I was trying for seven days in Venice...winding up with five. I'm thrilled, but really wanted a full week. Seems like Sept will never get here!

We are renting an apt from venice Rentals for 135E/night in the Santa Maria Formosa campo. It is a one bedroom, bathroom, living area with kitchen & washer. They also had another apt in Santa Margareta (sp?) campo which looked great. Their website has a good description of the various areas of Venice. www.venicerentals.com.

Enjoy your trip!

Anne

Anne, do report back on how you like that particular apartment. We rented at Campo San Aponal with Venice Rentals on our last trip, and will be taking the Formosa II apartment in the spring. So, I'd love to hear how it works out for you.

If you're going to Torcello (my favorite lagoon island) book ahead for lunch at the Locanda Cipriani. It's right on the main walking path on Torcello just before the cathedral--you can't miss it. By May the garden should be in bloom, and you can sit outdoors on the terrace and have a leisurely and pricey lunch that's worth every penny imo. I've done that a couple of times, it's another wonderful Venetian memory. I think the Locanda also has a couple of rooms to rent.
I have a long file on Venice; if you'd like to see it, email me at
[email protected]

congratulations on the kitten adoption.

Enjoy your trip to Venice. We returned one month ago and were there for only 4 days. I wish we could have stayed longer. I found the best time to see Venice is early in the morning (6am) and in the evenings. The streets were really quiet then. One evening we walked back from a concert late in the evening (rain) and it felt like we had Venice all to ourselves!

Sigh. I envy you wanderer.

I don't think I have enough experience in Venice from just one trip to advise you. I will say that in my limited experience, most areas I ventured outside of San Marco or the Rialto area had some degree of charm and the things you mention. There are hidden alleyways almost everywhere you look.

One thing to consider is a/c. I've not been in May and I am an a/c nut, but I don't think many apts will have it.

You might get more apt info by looking/asking on slowtrav.com