7 Days in Umbria, 4 in Rome, 2 Days ????
 

After 4 years we are finally returning to Italy. As usual we waited until almost the last minute to decide on a destination. Our schedule is based around a seven day stay at Castello Izzalini in Todi, which we booked through RCI to save some money. They had only one check-in date, so everything will resolve around that August 31st to September 7th stay.

We then figured 4 days would be OK in Rome (where ever we go we like to rent a car, drive around the countryside and explore the hill towns more than stay in a city, but neither my wife nor I have been to Rome before. In Rome we will be staying at the Relais Rome Sweet Relais Fori Imperiali, in Monti. I read an interesting article about Monti that caught my fancy and just decided to book here - with us, sometimes we just need to do something definitive so the vacation doesn't disappear in just talking about it. Anyway, if anyone has stayed either in the Monti area or in the Relais, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it

That was going to be the vacation, but when I went to look at airline tickets it turned out that the difference between flying on Wednesday as opposed to Friday will save us more than $500. So we now have two more days!

I think we'd like to spend them somewhere in the area between Rome and Todi. Any recommendations? From what little I've read so far, it looks like we could just drive anywhere and enjoy - on-the-other-hand it would be helpful to at least know which road to take out of the airport.

I'll continue to read the guide books and the great trip reports here and come back with some specifics when I know enough to have a question. If there are any "do not miss" places or restaurants I should look into, please feel free to share.

I am not sure I am following your itinerary correctly, but it looks like you are landing at FCO airport 2 days before you need to be in Todi, and you have booked accommodations in Rome for your last 4 nights, and departing from Rome.

If I have that right, and if you have never been in Rome before, I suggest that you spend your first 2 days in Rome, even though you will be returning there. Consider booking a b&b in Trastevere, which is on the other side of town from Monti, or likewise in the upscale piazza del Popolo area (try via Margutta). Both of them are very different from Monti, and they are not very convenient to see if you are staying in Monti, so you will get a chance to experience another side of Rome.

From either Trastevere or the piazza del Popolo area, it is very easy to visit the Vatican (and it is less easy to visit when you are in Monti). So on your second day, in the afternoon, I suggest going to the Vatican museums and seeing the Sistine chapel. And the you won't have that on your plate when you come back to Rome.

You can take a train from Rome to Orvieto and pick up a rental car there, giving you a shorter drive to Todi.

If that plan doesn't appeal to you, then -- without knowing what interests you personally -- it is hard to suggest places to go if you want to land in FCO and rent a car and drive there. For me, I would enjoy spending 2 nights in Tarquinia, visiting the Etruscan tombs and the Etruscan museum and just generally enjoying the hilltown, which has a different feel from the hilltowns in Tuscany and Umbria.

But if you prefer scenic destinations, that you might like either Lago Bracciano or Lago Bolsena. Or you could head up the coast to a nice sea town and eat seafood. (Porto Ercole would probably be my pick).

You are right that just about anyplace you go will be interesting. If you pick any obscure town in the Sabine hills, you will probably return to your trip evangelizing about how fabulous Italy is off the beaten track and how happy you were to have experienced it.

http://www.visitsabina.com/about-sab...ine-hills-map/

http://www.karenbrown.com/Trip_Plann..._Hills/109.php

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/fa...ine-hills.html

Anyway, if anyone has stayed either in the Monti area or in the Relais, I would greatly appreciate hearing about it>>

hi blej - looks like a nice trip!

a few years ago we spent a week in an apartment in the Via dei Serpenti which runs between the via Cavour and via nazionale, which form the southern and northern boundaries respectively of the area of Rome called Monti, which centres around the church of S. Maria Monte and the square opposite.

although it's a little far from the campo dei fiori etc, and even further from St. Peter's, it's a most interesting neighbourhood, with lots of little shops, workshops, local restaurants etc. etc. we particularly liked the enoteca and gelateria in the via dei serpenti [the local police liked it too, to judge by the way they went in there every night for their little pots of ice-cream] and there is a restaurant at the top of the street where we had a lovely sunday lunch, but actually the whole of the area is very nice.

there are buses either from the Vittoriano or the via nazionale, and the metro of course, for getting about if/when your feet get tired.

How about Orvietto? Would be perfect for two days as you can make some great side drives from there .

Locanda Rosati located just outside the town is a great reasonably priced place to stay. You could consider leaving off your car there depending on who you rent from then train into Rome. Whatever you do, do not plan on bringing a car into Rome.

thanks for the replies. I've spent the day going back and forth from guide books and posts to the map to get a sense of the area. For some reason I had it in my head that Umbria was completely below Tuscany on the map rather than south but also East.

Stevewith: Yes, we have not made reservations for the day we land and the next. Spending those two days visiting the Vatican and Trastevere sounds like a good idea - but a little too much city for our tastes. On the other hand you presented the very link that I've been looking at this afternoon - the Sabine Hills. I saw it on an old Ekscrunchy post. We like to get a sense of the people and the different areas and this is the leading option at the moment..

Tarquinia looks like a place we might be able to stop at on our way back to Rome. I will also look into the other lake side towns you mentioned.



annhig: thank you. The picture I'm getting of the area is sounding better and very much like the neighborhood we will enjoying walking around. I have a feeling the Vatican will have to wait for a return trip.

lowcountrycarol: Orvieto and Nocia are the two towns we know we will do day trips to from Todi. You idea to leave the rental car there rather than drive and return it in Rome is something to consider.

Aside from Orvieto and Nocia I'm looking for three or four other destinations to drive to and explore from Todi. I may not be able to resist going to Montalcino, as we somehow skipped it when we visited Tuscany - and Brunello is my favorite wine.

Would appreciate any suggestions.

If you are interested in Roman ruins, Casulae is not far from Todi. We loved it there. Very few tourists, a lovely museum and it's "wild" nature made it a very special place. Walking through the Arch of San Damiano on the via Flamina was pretty cool.

Further off is the very nice hill town of Montefalco. There are some stores selling the locally made linen, some very good restaurants, a lovely main piazza, the San Francesco Church Museum with fabulous restored frescoes by Gozzoli and Perugino among others, and of course there is the Sargrantino di Montefalco wine.

Spoleto is close.

While in Todi be sure to have lunch or dinner at Antica Hosteria de la Valle. Go hungry.

Check to see which town are having sagras. That is a fun time to visit places.
http://iumbriasagre.com/calendario-2013/

Have a great trip.

blej,,

Montefalco makes a red wine that many people (me included!) like better than Brunello, so I heartily recommend you go there and sample Sagrantino. It is very strong wine, so be careful not to drink too much if you are driving. Consider stopping by Bevagna on the same day trip to see the Roman mosaics there.

Spoleto has magnificent art works, so I would plan a full day there.

Are you going to drive to the Piano Grande from Norcia? I highly recommend it if you are okay with mountain driving. It is one of the top 5 of Italy's scenic sights. An ideal day might be to go to Norcia in the morning, see the Benedictine sights and get plenty of picnic supplies, and drive up to the Piano Grande for a picnic and stroll, and buy some lentils in Castelluccio. For the return trip, go by way of Visso, which is a very pretty little town hardly anybody ever visits. But it is a nice stop for a coffee or gelato.

Obviously Assisi and Perugia are the super-main attractions of Umbria, and if you are up for more driving, then Gubbio is about an hour from Todi.

If you do find yourself irresistibly drawn back to Montalcino, consider making a stop in Castiglione del Lago as part of that excursion. Not only do you get the change of pace of a lakeside town, you are right in the area where Hannibal defeated the Roman army, bogging them down in the lake fog. There is almost nothing to "see" in terms of historic ruins or markers, but it is just such a legendary area, it might appeal to your imagination.

Lastly, even if you don't go to Assisi itself, it can be interesting to try to get some feel for the importance of Saint Francis to that area and Italy as a whole. I'm not suggesting you take these walking tours, but they might suggest places to stop for a coffee or gelato. Many of these places are quite close to Todi.

http://www.meravigliosaumbria.com/St...ing%20tour.htm

http://www.tipicamenteumbria.it/inde...id=127&lang=en

and finally, in a nutshell

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/de...tractions.html

blej,
Typo. The ruins are called Carsulae.

OK, with the help I'm most grateful for a still indistinct but definite picture is emerging. Orvieto, Montefalco, Nocia, Piano Grande and surrounds, Spoletto, Gubbbio (for a festival or perhaps Assisi) - We're probably already out of time and I still haven't reviewed all I've received - We will have see some water at some point, be it lake or sea.

Please keep the eating places coming and especially any really good latterias or salumeria for picnic goodies.

By the way, I picked up a bottle of Milziade Antano Montefalco for dinner tonight. Granted it's the Rosso blended with Merlot and not the 100% Sagrantino, but it comes highly rated and it's a start. thanks again.

I liked Gubbio a lot, but I wouldn't miss the basilica in Assisi... It depends on how much time you want to spend in the car, but Todi-Gubbio is probably 90 minutes each way without any possible festival traffic impact.

For water, you could go to Lake Trasimeno, but you might find Cascata della Marmore more interesting. Try to time your visit around the water release schedule.

http://www.marmorefalls.it/indexen_GB.php

Norcineria Ercole Ulivucci Via Mazzini 4 in Norcia was our favorite norcineria in town. It is not the most famous one, but we liked it the best. We got spectacular ciauscolo there as well as some very fine assorted salumis and pecorino.

Also in Norica, the bakery run by Anna Scolastico at Corso Sertorio 13 makes wonderful stuffed cookies and cakes. If you ask what something is be prepared for samples of just about everything she makes.

We thoroughly enjoyed our lunch at L'Alchimista in Montefalco. In nice weather, tables are set up outside in the piazza.

There is no shortage of great places to eat in Orvieto. Trattoria La Palomba is a good bet for a casual and delicious meal.

There are also many good place to eat in Bevagna. We had lunch at Osteria del Podesta. I still remember the sauce that was served with my rabbit. Very low key place, but really authentic Umbrian food.

We had lunch at Trattoria degli Umbri in Assisi and loved it. Order the daily specials and don't let the salad and sandwich menu posted for tourists fool you. This is the real thing.

We found the most amazing olive oil at Antico Frantoio Nunzi. We were put on to them by franco, who used to post here a lot and knows his food products. It is in Cantalupo and worth the effort to find it. We were served an endless supply of bruschetta drenched in their oil and piled high with tomatoes. We called ahead and let them know we were coming the next day and we were given a warm welcome and a great tour.

http://www.anticofrantoionunzi.it/

Thanks Jean, I see I'll have to consider driving times. We tend to meander and stop when we see something interesting, so 90 minutes could be all day.

"Try to time your visit around the water release schedule." Does that mean they turn the waterfall off and on?


Wekewoody: Just what I was hoping for, places that we find on our travels that make us moan just remembering the food there. Ours is the latteria in Matera, Latteria Rizzi, via E. Duni N 2.

I have much to digest and a bottle to open.

blej, click on the link I provided and then click on "Timetables" (right side box). Make sure you scroll down to the timetable for 2013. This is a hydroelectric power plant, and the water is released a couple of times a day. That's when the waterfalls and cascades are the most dramatic.

You can check driving times on maps.google.com, viamichelin.com or mappy.com, but add time to all of the estimates as they tend to be rather optimistic.

If you go to Bevagna, look for the Tourist Info Office in the historical center and inquire about a guided (free) tour of the excavated Roman baths and opera house. When we were there, both of these sites were not accessible to the public except if/when TIO personnel opened them for small groups of visitors.

thanks Jean, I'll look into Bevanga. I think you're right about the basilica in Assisi - but not during the festival.

I just read a post about returning a rental in Rome, or rather why you shouldn't. So we will take the advice given and return the car in Orvieto.

The Montefalco Rosso was delicious. I'll wait until we go to Montefalco to try the 100% Sagrantino.

I guess I'll have to turn my attention to our days in Rome. As we will have just a few days, I'm thinking about a private guide on the second day. I saw a post with quite a few recommendations. We would like to get an overview from the point of history/architecture. Any ideas?

blej - don't miss out on having a look at the cathedral in Orvieto while you're there.

just the outside is fantastic.

you get there via a funicular from outside the train station and then a bus up to the centre.

a wander around the centre is also recommended and there are some nice restaurants too.

but don't miss the Duomo!

I agree with annhig about Orvieto. If you return the car there, keep it to hold the luggage until you've had a chance to go up to the duomo. The rental offices will be closed in the middle of the day, so check their operating hours.

FWIW: we spent a few days at Locanda Rosati, a few km south of Orvieto, several years ago. The host feeds 20 or so nightly, some are neighbors. The rooms are excellent, the conversation is invigorating and dinner goes on until all of the wine and grappa is gone.

Hi, thanks. I was planning to make Orvieto a destination for one of the days. Maybe have lunch there and possibly explore a little further west. Do you think Orvieto is worth a few hours? "Back Road Italy" has an Etruscan tour that start with Orvieto and heading towards Montemerano and finally Monte Argentario. It's three days, but we would just cover what was comfortable for one.

By the way, do you know if cell phone and GPS service are fairly universal or does it disappear in the hill towns?

"Do you think Orvieto is worth a few hours?"

We spent the better part of two days there. You could easily spend an entire day there seeing the sights and wandering. On top of the things already mentioned, there is a great Etruscan Museum and an underground tour of the caverns as well as great shops. It is a wonderful town to wander with fabulous views everywhere. If you can, stay for the passeggiata. It is very lively!

"Do you think Orvieto is worth a few hours?">>

i think that the general opinion is "Si"!

we missed the Etruscan museum on our day trip from Rome but we did see the Duomo, and do the underground tour, which left me cold, to be honest. however climbing the clock/bell tower was fun, and the lunch we had was excellent.

didn't see the passeggiata as we had to get the train back to Rome - you'd really need to stay there for a night or at least for an evening meal to get the full experience.