7 days around the lakes in Italy
Sep 2nd, 2019, 08:26 AM
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7 days around the lakes in Italy
I have just returned from our friends (5 of us) trip to Italy and want to share how everything turned out with you. It's my first ever trip report, so please be kind.
I PART - Maggiore
We have met all together in Milan's Malpensa airport around 20.30 last Saturday (Aug 24th). We went to take our pre-booked car via AutoEurope, packed it with stuff, and made our way to the first part of the trip - Lake Maggiore.We rented an Airbnb in a town called Pallanza, where we stayed for a couple of nights. The highlight of the first evening was the spaghetti, and a can of tomato sauce left for us on a table. We were starving, and everything was closed by the time we got to our Airbnb, so that kind gesture was really appreciated. (If you need exact Airbnb details I'd be happy to look it up for you)After late-late dinner, we went to bed, and the next morning headed out for breakfast somewhere close to the lake. Can't remember the exact name of the place, but remember having an excellent meal deal - coffee, juice, croissant - all for only three euros! They served excellent paninis too. Should've kept the name somewhere, damn it.
After fueling up, we walked around the lovely town, made our way back home, picked up swimsuits and jumped in a car to go to the secluded beach nearby (only 25 min in a car) it was the closest free public beach we could find. But wait for it... I am not talking about Lake Maggiore. We found a river with a waterfall nearby, and I have to say we were all so happy with this choice. Some of us were brave enough to be jumping on some cliffs. Some chose to be the camerawoman (me). Swimming by the waterfall was an experience I will treasure for a long time. However, note for future self - rubber boots are a must if you are planning on swimming in any of the lakes in Italy. The beaches are challenging to walk on bare feet.
That day we also drove up a small hill-top village for a view of the lake and went to see what the local supermercato had in-store for us. There we discovered an excellent choice of wine for only 3-5 euros and burrata cheese for only 4! So we opted to have dinner at home since our Airbnb had a lovely terrace and we all love cooking. We went for a walk and another glass of wine in the town late at night.
The next day (Aug 26th) we had to check out from our Airbnb and head to Lake Como area, but we couldn't leave without actually dipping our toes in Maggiore. Hence after checking out, we stopped by a local beach in Stressa city, swam for a bit and had gelato for breakfast (as you do when in Italy).
Then we jumped in a car and headed to our Airbnb in Varenna, by the lake Como.
II PART - Como
After checking-in at our second Airbnb, we decided to go for dinner all together in Varenna. Note for future self - pre-book your table. We had been given some recommendations in restaurants nearby, but once we arrived there, they were excepting only clients with table reservations. So we ended up in a very average restaurant, close to the church, where we felt unwelcomed. We even noticed that they gave us different bread that the other table.
By the way, the service charge seemed to be included by default wherever we went - 1.5 - 2e per head.
After dinner, we walked a bit, got some wine and went back to relax at home in our terrace.
The next day, we were stunned by the views that our terrace had offered. It felt like the lake with mountains around it was within a reach. We had to have breakfast on our terrace. Another tip - all Airbnb's had a choice of a filter coffee maker or Moka espresso there, so if you are a coffee addict the choice is there.
Here's a pic of us having breakfast, so you could see the glimpse of the views too.
I have to run now but will update the trip report tomorrow - with more details and insights surrounding Como and Garda lakes
I PART - Maggiore
We have met all together in Milan's Malpensa airport around 20.30 last Saturday (Aug 24th). We went to take our pre-booked car via AutoEurope, packed it with stuff, and made our way to the first part of the trip - Lake Maggiore.We rented an Airbnb in a town called Pallanza, where we stayed for a couple of nights. The highlight of the first evening was the spaghetti, and a can of tomato sauce left for us on a table. We were starving, and everything was closed by the time we got to our Airbnb, so that kind gesture was really appreciated. (If you need exact Airbnb details I'd be happy to look it up for you)After late-late dinner, we went to bed, and the next morning headed out for breakfast somewhere close to the lake. Can't remember the exact name of the place, but remember having an excellent meal deal - coffee, juice, croissant - all for only three euros! They served excellent paninis too. Should've kept the name somewhere, damn it.
After fueling up, we walked around the lovely town, made our way back home, picked up swimsuits and jumped in a car to go to the secluded beach nearby (only 25 min in a car) it was the closest free public beach we could find. But wait for it... I am not talking about Lake Maggiore. We found a river with a waterfall nearby, and I have to say we were all so happy with this choice. Some of us were brave enough to be jumping on some cliffs. Some chose to be the camerawoman (me). Swimming by the waterfall was an experience I will treasure for a long time. However, note for future self - rubber boots are a must if you are planning on swimming in any of the lakes in Italy. The beaches are challenging to walk on bare feet.
That day we also drove up a small hill-top village for a view of the lake and went to see what the local supermercato had in-store for us. There we discovered an excellent choice of wine for only 3-5 euros and burrata cheese for only 4! So we opted to have dinner at home since our Airbnb had a lovely terrace and we all love cooking. We went for a walk and another glass of wine in the town late at night.
The next day (Aug 26th) we had to check out from our Airbnb and head to Lake Como area, but we couldn't leave without actually dipping our toes in Maggiore. Hence after checking out, we stopped by a local beach in Stressa city, swam for a bit and had gelato for breakfast (as you do when in Italy).
Then we jumped in a car and headed to our Airbnb in Varenna, by the lake Como.
II PART - Como
After checking-in at our second Airbnb, we decided to go for dinner all together in Varenna. Note for future self - pre-book your table. We had been given some recommendations in restaurants nearby, but once we arrived there, they were excepting only clients with table reservations. So we ended up in a very average restaurant, close to the church, where we felt unwelcomed. We even noticed that they gave us different bread that the other table.
By the way, the service charge seemed to be included by default wherever we went - 1.5 - 2e per head.
After dinner, we walked a bit, got some wine and went back to relax at home in our terrace.
The next day, we were stunned by the views that our terrace had offered. It felt like the lake with mountains around it was within a reach. We had to have breakfast on our terrace. Another tip - all Airbnb's had a choice of a filter coffee maker or Moka espresso there, so if you are a coffee addict the choice is there.
Here's a pic of us having breakfast, so you could see the glimpse of the views too.
I have to run now but will update the trip report tomorrow - with more details and insights surrounding Como and Garda lakes
Sep 3rd, 2019, 05:02 AM
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Thank you for signing on! Gives me some extra motivation to continue with the report.
Forgot to mention our quick cruise to Isola Bella from Stressa in part 1. The island is tiny and crowded with tourists. We decided to skip on the Palace and Gardens, as we were a bit short on time and thought that 17e wasn't worth it. And we could see the Gardens from the boat. Has anyone of you visited the Palace and Gardens? Would you say it was worth the money and time?
II PART (continued)
After breakfast, we walked to the harbor of the city (around an hour walk by the lake), there we bought day-trip tickets in Bellagio-Mennagio-Varenna zone for cruising. 15e well-spent. Seeing the pre-Alpen dolomite mountains with charming Italian towns scattered along the coast of Como was really lovely. Firstly, we stopped by Mennagio where we had ice-cream in and walked for a bit, then jumped on another ship taking us to Lenno commune, where according to the staff on the boat, was the best place to dip our toes in the water. We spent a couple of hours swimming, and then hopped on another ship taking us to Bellagio. We had a long, relaxing walk around the city, took some pictures, bought some souvenirs (Check out the silk scarf shop on top of the hill once you're there) and decided it was time to head home back to Varenna.
Once disembarked, we rushed to our favorite gelato place in Varenna. (After looking at google map, I believe it was called Bar 2 Mollo) The flavors there taste so home-made and natural. Our group's favorite combo was chocolate and banana. With ice-cream in hand, we started walking the hiking trail which was on our way home - the Green Way of Patriarchs. The path was very scenic and took us by the cemetery on a hill-top. I'd highly recommend adding this trial to your to-do list if you're planning a trip to Varenna or Como. Once at home, we had another evening on the terrace eating home-made pasta for dinner and drinking an inappropriate amount of vino Bianco.
Having a terrace was deffo a highlight of our stay in Como. We could sit, chat, and simply enjoy ourselves while watching the lightning storm over the lake.
III PART - Garda
We like to cram a lot in one trip. You probably noticed. So when we saw that Bergamo city was on our way traveling from Como to Garda, we thought we needed to stop by. We heard a lot of good things about the city, so we felt like it would be silly not to spend at least a few hours walking the streets of Bergamo. Now looking back at the trip, I guess Bergamo would be the only location that I would cut off if needed.
Forgot to mention our quick cruise to Isola Bella from Stressa in part 1. The island is tiny and crowded with tourists. We decided to skip on the Palace and Gardens, as we were a bit short on time and thought that 17e wasn't worth it. And we could see the Gardens from the boat. Has anyone of you visited the Palace and Gardens? Would you say it was worth the money and time?
II PART (continued)
After breakfast, we walked to the harbor of the city (around an hour walk by the lake), there we bought day-trip tickets in Bellagio-Mennagio-Varenna zone for cruising. 15e well-spent. Seeing the pre-Alpen dolomite mountains with charming Italian towns scattered along the coast of Como was really lovely. Firstly, we stopped by Mennagio where we had ice-cream in and walked for a bit, then jumped on another ship taking us to Lenno commune, where according to the staff on the boat, was the best place to dip our toes in the water. We spent a couple of hours swimming, and then hopped on another ship taking us to Bellagio. We had a long, relaxing walk around the city, took some pictures, bought some souvenirs (Check out the silk scarf shop on top of the hill once you're there) and decided it was time to head home back to Varenna.
Once disembarked, we rushed to our favorite gelato place in Varenna. (After looking at google map, I believe it was called Bar 2 Mollo) The flavors there taste so home-made and natural. Our group's favorite combo was chocolate and banana. With ice-cream in hand, we started walking the hiking trail which was on our way home - the Green Way of Patriarchs. The path was very scenic and took us by the cemetery on a hill-top. I'd highly recommend adding this trial to your to-do list if you're planning a trip to Varenna or Como. Once at home, we had another evening on the terrace eating home-made pasta for dinner and drinking an inappropriate amount of vino Bianco.
Having a terrace was deffo a highlight of our stay in Como. We could sit, chat, and simply enjoy ourselves while watching the lightning storm over the lake.
III PART - Garda
We like to cram a lot in one trip. You probably noticed. So when we saw that Bergamo city was on our way traveling from Como to Garda, we thought we needed to stop by. We heard a lot of good things about the city, so we felt like it would be silly not to spend at least a few hours walking the streets of Bergamo. Now looking back at the trip, I guess Bergamo would be the only location that I would cut off if needed.
That particular day was scorching and humid, felt like there was no oxygen in the air. (Maybe I'm overreacting a bit) Now I am thinking this could have been because we spent the majority of our days breathing the fresh air of the lakes and mountains, so being back in a bigger city had an effect on us. The lunch was fantastic though (note to self, keep a record of eateries as you might want to mention them in your trip report)
After lunch and another 1.5h in a car, we arrived in our last Italian Airbnb situated on a hill near facing Garda lake in Pallanza city. This was the biggest and the most authentic place we stayed at. The whole city looks like it was made from stone. The streets were super close to each other, you could hear your neighbors singing in the shower if the windows were opened. We liked the ambiance and the location of our accommodation. However, some of my friends believed they experienced some paranormal activity in the house, but it's hard to say as the houses are so close to each other, it could have been that we heard just neighbors.
The next day we spent exploring National Park of Adamello, it was wonderful to see an Alpine lake, super green and reflective of the surroundings. We even were brave enough to dive into the freezing cold water. By the way, the route was talking us through the apple plantation, I've never seen so many apple trees in my life. We picked a few for a taste and oh dear. Best apples ever!
Here's a pic from the lake:
The next day we went to explore Sirmione and enjoyed a day at the beach. Sirmione was also a bit too crowded and too overpriced for my liking. But it was still worth seeing it. Finding a place to park a car was a nightmare though. We chose to dine outside the hub of tourists and found a lovely spot which name, of course, I can't remember - something that sounds like 'quiet'. The risotto was wonderful.
This was the last dinner of our trip, the next day we got up early, checked out and made our way to Malpensa.
If I could do this all over again I would:
> Make sure to bring rubber boots for swimming
> Pack/Buy some anti-mosquito spray (we all got badly bitten)
> Stock up on sunscreen
> Have a hat with me
> When budgeting, remember the toll roads, tourist taxt (1.5-2e per head per night), service charge (same as tourist tax), and extra for car insurance in case we need to pay.
After lunch and another 1.5h in a car, we arrived in our last Italian Airbnb situated on a hill near facing Garda lake in Pallanza city. This was the biggest and the most authentic place we stayed at. The whole city looks like it was made from stone. The streets were super close to each other, you could hear your neighbors singing in the shower if the windows were opened. We liked the ambiance and the location of our accommodation. However, some of my friends believed they experienced some paranormal activity in the house, but it's hard to say as the houses are so close to each other, it could have been that we heard just neighbors.
The next day we spent exploring National Park of Adamello, it was wonderful to see an Alpine lake, super green and reflective of the surroundings. We even were brave enough to dive into the freezing cold water. By the way, the route was talking us through the apple plantation, I've never seen so many apple trees in my life. We picked a few for a taste and oh dear. Best apples ever!
Here's a pic from the lake:
The next day we went to explore Sirmione and enjoyed a day at the beach. Sirmione was also a bit too crowded and too overpriced for my liking. But it was still worth seeing it. Finding a place to park a car was a nightmare though. We chose to dine outside the hub of tourists and found a lovely spot which name, of course, I can't remember - something that sounds like 'quiet'. The risotto was wonderful.
This was the last dinner of our trip, the next day we got up early, checked out and made our way to Malpensa.
If I could do this all over again I would:
> Make sure to bring rubber boots for swimming
> Pack/Buy some anti-mosquito spray (we all got badly bitten)
> Stock up on sunscreen
> Have a hat with me
> When budgeting, remember the toll roads, tourist taxt (1.5-2e per head per night), service charge (same as tourist tax), and extra for car insurance in case we need to pay.
Sep 3rd, 2019, 06:05 AM
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It was very interesting to read this report, thank you for sharing. I was actually planning a trip to Italy with my fiance and a lake trip sound very unique. I have heard a lot about Como before, but havent heard about the other two.
Sep 3rd, 2019, 04:15 PM
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Thanks for posting the trip report. Sounds like you had a great trip. I'm curious as to how crowded you felt the lakes were in August. I realize you mentioned crowds in Sirmione (that place is always crowded). Overall it doesn't sound like you felt the places you went were so crowded as to not be enjoyable. Is that correct? I've been to all of those lakes but in June/July and was wondering about August. Would you say they were "busy" "crowded" "horrible"? Something else? Which of the lakes was the most/least crowded?
Also, in Bergamo did you go up to the upper town or just explore the lower town?
Nice photos.
Also, in Bergamo did you go up to the upper town or just explore the lower town?
Nice photos.
Sep 4th, 2019, 12:41 AM
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Hey Isabel, yes we were expecting crowds, as everyone has been mentioning it's the high season for Northern Italy. But we were surprised by the lack of them! Sirmione and Isola Bela are the only locations which felt like they were crammed by tourists. But I guess this is also because they are very tiny in size too. Anywhere else we visted was fine. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that we were there the last week of August, right before the school year begins, so fewer tourist families around. All of them felt similar in terms of tourists. But if I have to pick one I would choose Como lake as the least crowded.
Yes, we were in both Bergamo parts - the upper and the lower. It was a real challenge to climb to the hill in that heat. BUT thank god for the public water stations located in towns in Italy. We were able to fill up our water bottles and splash our faces.
Yes, we were in both Bergamo parts - the upper and the lower. It was a real challenge to climb to the hill in that heat. BUT thank god for the public water stations located in towns in Italy. We were able to fill up our water bottles and splash our faces.
Sep 4th, 2019, 01:27 AM
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Thanks for the report.
It's a pity that you didn't visit any gem of Lake Maggiore (like the 4 Islands with subtropical gardens, the 4 viewpoints over the Alps with panoramic views from Mont Blanc/Matterhorn up to Bernina/Ortles which can all be reached by cableways; the many scenic villages above tha lake like Colazza, Nebbiuno, Vezzo, Cossogno, Trarego, Ronco, Piazzogna, Vairano, Bassano, Campagnano, Agra, Bedero, most of them with typical trattorie who serve local food.....; the sandy beaches of Ascona, Feriolo, Lago Mergozzo, Ceresole, Monvalle, Boschettino, Lisanza, Brebbia Sabbiadoro, Castelletto Ticino.....; and may be not even Lake Lugano which is just between Lake Maggiore and Lake Como..
It's a pity that you didn't visit any gem of Lake Maggiore (like the 4 Islands with subtropical gardens, the 4 viewpoints over the Alps with panoramic views from Mont Blanc/Matterhorn up to Bernina/Ortles which can all be reached by cableways; the many scenic villages above tha lake like Colazza, Nebbiuno, Vezzo, Cossogno, Trarego, Ronco, Piazzogna, Vairano, Bassano, Campagnano, Agra, Bedero, most of them with typical trattorie who serve local food.....; the sandy beaches of Ascona, Feriolo, Lago Mergozzo, Ceresole, Monvalle, Boschettino, Lisanza, Brebbia Sabbiadoro, Castelletto Ticino.....; and may be not even Lake Lugano which is just between Lake Maggiore and Lake Como..
Sep 5th, 2019, 06:29 AM
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We found an availability in Varenna for our days! That was good news for us.
Just to confirm, the one hour train ride from Milan to Varenna is not very windy so I should be ok. I am sure it will be fine but just wanted to confirm.
We will then ferry to Bellagio and other places nearby.
Thank you everyone!
Just to confirm, the one hour train ride from Milan to Varenna is not very windy so I should be ok. I am sure it will be fine but just wanted to confirm.
We will then ferry to Bellagio and other places nearby.
Thank you everyone!
Sep 5th, 2019, 07:14 AM
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It's a pity that you didn't visit any gem of Lake Maggiore (like the 4 Islands with subtropical gardens, the 4 viewpoints over the Alps with panoramic views from Mont Blanc/Matterhorn up to Bernina/Ortles which can all be reached by cableways; the many scenic villages above tha lake like Colazza, Nebbiuno, Vezzo, Cossogno, Trarego, Ronco, Piazzogna, Vairano, Bassano, Campagnano, Agra, Bedero, most of them with typical trattorie who serve local food.....; the sandy beaches of Ascona, Feriolo, Lago Mergozzo, Ceresole, Monvalle, Boschettino, Lisanza, Brebbia Sabbiadoro, Castelletto Ticino.....; and may be not even Lake Lugano which is just between Lake Maggiore and Lake Como..
Sep 5th, 2019, 07:15 AM
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We found an availability in Varenna for our days! That was good news for us.
Just to confirm, the one hour train ride from Milan to Varenna is not very windy so I should be ok. I am sure it will be fine but just wanted to confirm.
We will then ferry to Bellagio and other places nearby.
Thank you everyone!
Just to confirm, the one hour train ride from Milan to Varenna is not very windy so I should be ok. I am sure it will be fine but just wanted to confirm.
We will then ferry to Bellagio and other places nearby.
Thank you everyone!
Sep 5th, 2019, 02:05 PM
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I've been reading your TR and following along on the map making note of the places you found particularly interesting. However, the only Pallanza city I can find overlooks Lake Maggiore. Where was your Pallanza located? The other one doesn't look too shabby, but it's in the wrong place. Thanks!
Thanks also for writing. You do cover a lot of ground but it's more interesting to read that than "We stayed in one place and wandered around for 4 days." which is how my version would go. I look forward to following in your footsteps some time, albeit at a slower pace!
Thanks also for writing. You do cover a lot of ground but it's more interesting to read that than "We stayed in one place and wandered around for 4 days." which is how my version would go. I look forward to following in your footsteps some time, albeit at a slower pace!
Sep 14th, 2019, 04:20 AM
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Oh dear! Thank you for reading my report and paying attention to these important details. Now I see that I've mentioned Pallanza twice lol. The place near Garda was actually called Piovere. Would love to come back there. It's one of the most authentic places I've seen in Italy.
Sep 14th, 2019, 04:22 AM
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Thanks again to everyone reading it. At first, I was reluctant to writing trip reports as they take a lot of time and effort to remember all the places and reflect your impressions in a nice and readable way. But I totally get it now why so many of you keep sharing your trip reports. It's so rewarding seeing that people read and take something from it.
Sep 14th, 2019, 04:30 AM
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We love Lago Maggiore (and Orta) and go there fairly often, always staying in Stresa and venturing out from there. Maybe it's the allure of the islands or that Maggiore has less panache than Como or Garda, but it's by far our favorite lake. Plus, we are committed foodies and one of our favorite food stores in all of Europe, La Cambusa, is in Stresa. They sell a mouth-killing hot sauce that keeps us alive and dying for air for months at a time. We live in France where people are too shy or stupid to enjoy spicy foods, so a trip to La Cambusa is a welcome change - and that beautiful lake!
Sep 14th, 2019, 06:50 AM
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Oh dear! Thank you for reading my report and paying attention to these important details. Now I see that I've mentioned Pallanza twice lol. The place near Garda was actually called Piovere. Would love to come back there. It's one of the most authentic places I've seen in Italy.
