KC2NYC

Please feel free to reply to any part of my post - looking for as much advice as possible! My girlfriend and I are planning a pre-labor day 9-day/10-night trip to Italy. I've been to Rome 2x and the Amalfi coast 1x but have never been anywhere else so feel like it's time to explore Tuscany. We are in our mid-20's living in NYC so yes, we are on a budget, but are comfortable w/ spending 200 euros per night on average for hotels. Looking at 4-star hotels mainly…5-stars are out of the price range for now. She's never been to Italy so she's open to everything - we would like a relatively stress-free vaca in terms of moving around/traveling. So to start, I'd like to show her the Amalfi Coast for a few days then finish up the trip in Tuscany, flying out of Florence on Labor Day. We will be arriving in Florence from the Amalfi coast (2 nights in Positano @ Hotel Villa Franca, 1 night in Ravello @ Hotel Graal) via a Naples-Florence train on Tuesday, 8/31. This is where I need help thinking what to do for the next 6 nights! For now, I've planned on spending the last 2 nights of our trip in Florence so really only need 4 days of trip advice. I'd like to be in a town/village where there is some activity at night…not necessarily nightclubs or bars but definitely a place with a good after-dinner vibe in a piazza or sitting around drinking wine….love places w/ that buzz and energy. From what I've read, Siena, San Gimignano, Pienza, Montalcino, Montalcino and even Chianti towns are my options and I need to drill down on 1 of these places for our 4-night "base camp". Think splitting the 4 nights between 2 places may be too much effort and unneccessary travel. Ideally, I'd like to explore Siena and taste the food but I am not 100% set on staying 'in' Siena for 4 nights. Living in NYC, we are big post-dinner strollers. We love just taking everything in so we do not think staying far outside a city is the best idea for us - especially if we've had too many glasses of wine and don't want to drive. I imagine late August/early September is crowded during the day in all the towns I mentioned so being around this would be ok but not ideal. Would love to hear thoughts on sample itineraries but the key is that we do not want to feel stressed. We can always go back and visit places we don't get to see this time. Maybe stay in 1 place for those 4 nights and do 2 day trips in a rental car but nothing more. More than anything, we enjoy exploring on foot and do not like spending time traveling. PLEASE HELP!! I've thought of everything from renting a car in Florence on 8/31 and driving to either Lucca/San Gimignano/Siena/even as far down as Pienza…but can't make a decision -- i do know that it is cheapest to rent and return a car to the same place so we would do this in Florence or Siena I think. Nightime food/vibe is very important to us but at the same time, I do not want to be swamped by tourists everywhere I look. La Saracina outside Pienza looks great but it also looks almost 'too relaxing' in terms of being too far from restuarants and a general village nighttime vibe. I am thinking of Campo di Fiori in Rome (altho cheezy, it has a nice evening vibe)…I'm sure Florence and possibly Siena have a place like this…but delicous food is a must. Going to Italy and having unmemorable food will not stand!!! By the way, if anyone is from NYC, our favorite restaurants are Aquagrill, Gramercy Tavern, Babbo and a few other simple yet amazing spots. Looking for great food in Italy! Hotel would ideally have a great pool with a view of the countryside but I'm sure we cannot get this if we stay inside city walls. Open to everything!

Amalfi (Sat 8/28, Sun 8/29, Mon 8/30):
2 nights in Positano (Hotel Villa Franca)…1 night in Ravello (Hotel Graal)…wish I could justify shacking up at Hotel Caruso or Palazzo Sasso but it just doesn't make sense financially. Have heard great things about Cumpa Cosimo and Rosselini's and will definitely try both. Any Positano/Ravello suggestions are much appreciated!

Tuscany (Tues 8/31, Wed 9/1, Thurs 9/2, Fri 9/3):
This is where I need the most help (see above)!!!

Florence (Sat 9/4, Sun 9/5):
I booked 2 nights @ Hotel Santa Maria Novella in Florence for our last 2 nights (Sat 9/4, Sun 9/5). I believe I've gotten a fair 212 per night Euro rate for a honeymoon suite (not our honeymoon but looks like great value). Any Florence recs are much appreciated too!

We are foodies so looking for restaurant recs --- my girlfriend loves seafood while I love pasta/meat so may be tough but imagine we'll figure it out.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
R & G

jnjfraz

Hi R & G

What a great trip. My husband and I are triple your age but it sounds like our interests are the same. We spend weeks a weeks of each year in Tuscany (in an agrotourismo) and our main goal is a great food and wine. When we do stay in a hotel for a few days, we find 3 stars. We spend very little time in our room so we've never justified the price. If you go to Slowtrav.com there are many many first hand recommendations on hotels.

So, back to Tuscany. I think that many of the towns you mention are just going to be too quiet for you. However, the town that is perfect for your taste is Siena. Lots of activity, great people watching and very busy late night.

We stayed in Siena for a week last May and loved it. There are a couple of good hotels, but we choose B&B San Fracesco http://www.bb-sanfrancesco.com/. It is a great convient location and there is parking close by.

Tuscany is very difficult to enjoy without an automobile and if I were you I would rent a car for 4 days and go in a different direction each day, then spend early mornings and evening in Siena.

We have a spectacular list of Tuscan restaurants, just email me [email protected] and I'll get it to you.

Jeannie
www.vinorossoidaho.com

jnjfraz

After rereading my post I want to clarify something. When I say Siena is very busy late night, that is in relation to Tuscany not New York. Siena is great fun and it is a wonderful city for a stroll and it just feels good. The other towns you mentioned are great, but it takes 20 minutes to stroll all of some of the other towns you mention.

KC2NYC

Thanks Jeannie - We are now in contact via email. Has anyone ever stayed @

Palazzo Ravizza or Santa Caterina? Palazzo looks like it might be closer to the Siena action than B&B San Francesco. A nice pool would be ideal if we want to lounge around in Siena a few days! Are there hotels in Siena with pools?

Jean

You mention twice you want "stress free" and also that you "do not like spending time traveling." If that's really where your thinking begins, then don't change hotels as often as you're contemplating. With only 9 days, you don't want to waste any more time than necessary packing/unpacking, checking out/in, moving from place to place.

You don't say where you're arriving in Italy. If Naples or Rome, then a few days on the Amalfi Coast are doable but stay in one hotel. If you arrive and depart at Florence, then leave the Amalfi Coast for another trip.

After that, you seem to have three things on your wish list. Rome, Tuscany countryside, Florence. IMO, that's at least one wish too many, but you have to decide which one (or two) you're willing to leave for the next trip. If you pick Rome and Florence, you can make easy day trips to (for example) Orvieto, Ostia Antica, Siena, San Gimignano, Pisa, Lucca, Bologna, or a wine tasting tour in Chianti.

FYI the stars given hotels in Italy do not necessarily relate to the level of luxury, quality or even room rate. They indicate the number and type of amenities offered, such as on-site parking, swimming pool, meeting facilites, elevator, in-house restaurant, room service, etc. Pick your hotel based on what you want/need, location and what you're willing to spend.

KC2NYC

Thanks Jean. Rome is not in the cards for this trip. We fly into Rome and are going straight to Naples. I think you may be right about staying in one hotel on the Amalfi Coast - likely Positano. As of now, I'm thinking Siena per jnjfraz's suggestions. That would be 1 hotel in Amalfi and 2 hotels in Tuscany (Florence, Siena).

Jean

Much better! Have a great trip!

joannyc

Palazzo Ravizza or Santa Caterina?

I stayed at Palazzo Ravizza in October and thought it was overpriced. Wonderful view from my room, but overpriced for what it was. Breakfast was... not worth it.

I've read some good reviews about St.Caterina but no personal experience.

There are some excellent restaurants in Siena. And, I had the best gnocchi w/ gorgonzola sauce of my LIFE in Assisi!

joannyc

And, if you go to San Gim, there is a cool wine tasting at the Convent's wine store (go up main drag and make 1st (?) left turn, it will be on your right about 1/2 way up block). Taste as much as you want, pay at the end.


You can also do a cheese plate, etc. with the tasting. It was my first stop in San Gim since I knew I'd be driving later!

KC2NYC

Does anyone have a thought on whether or not we should rent a car in Florence and drive to Siena on Tues 8/31 or is the bus terminal close to the train station so that we could just hop on a bus to Siena (after arriving via train from Naples) without having to go to the airport to rent a car? Can always rent a car in Siena. Just not sure what's more efficient: the bus or driving a car to/from Siena?

kybourbon

I think I would eliminate Florence at that point as it would take longer to get to Siena. I would take the Sena bus from Rome. Train from Naples to Rome (Tiburtina station, not Termini), catch the Sena bus to Siena.
http://www.sena.it/index_e.htm

jnjfraz

If you have decided to skip Florence then why not pick the car up in Orvieto and drop it off at the Florence airport. The day you pick up the car you can see Orvieto, then drive up S2 and see Pienza and Montalcino that day.

Lexma90

Given your interests, I agree that Siena is a good choice for you, in terms of evening walking-around time.

However, 4 nights there might be a bit much, especially if you are foodies. Consider 3 nights Siena, 3 nights Florence. You could still spend almost the same amount of time in t rural areas, then go to Florence later in the day, so you can have dinner there.

If you want a great lunch in San Gimignano, go to Dorando. Its part of the Slow Food movement, and serves creative twists on local dishes. If you are on a budget though, you may want to check the prices first.

SuzChicago

We were in Tuscany, Umbria and Rome last in 2005. Immensely enjoyed Siena, including the Palazzo Ravizza -- no pool though. I think Siena is the only town you mentioned in Tuscany that will have any evening vibe at all. Excellent restaurants -- keep in mind that seafood is big in Amalfi coast with more meat-oreinted dishes in Tuscany.

We ate at an incredible restaurant that is out the back door to the Duomo up the street to the left as you are looking onto a small piazza. It seemed to be built into caves of some sort and the food and wine were just superb! Can't remember the name for the life of me.

KC2NYC

After reading these, I've decided to pick up a rental car in Naples (as opposed to training it to Rome and renting a car there) on Tuesday morning...then driving up to see either/and Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano before checking in for 1 night at La Saracina or Hotelito Lupaia. Can anyone think of a great place to grab an early bite in one of those 3 towns (Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano) that Tuesday? We'll spend all day Wednesday exploring the area (lunch recs?) then head up to Siena where we may stay for 2 nights before driving to Florence for the last 3 nights. Still looking for the right hotel to stay at in Siena (ok w/ no pool) and considering fitting in a daytrip to San Gimignano (with the crowds!) on Friday afternoon before pulling into Florence in the evening and spending labor day weekend there.

kybourbon

You don't want to pick up a car in Naples. Pick up your car in either Sorrento or Salerno and avoid driving in Naples.

IMO you are changing hotels too many times in such a short trip. Many of the places you are visiting are quite close together and can easily be day trips.

Jean

If you drive from Naples, you'd be lucky to see one town (Pienza, Montalcino, Montepulciano) on Tuesday afternoon. The drive from Naples to any one of them is nearly 4 hours, and the rental offices in Naples don't open until 7:30/8:00 am.

I agree with kybourbon about picking up the car somewhere other than Naples, but I would train to Orvieto as early as possible and drive from there. You could be in Orvieto by 9:30 am (train from Naples at 6:50 am or from Salerno at 6:02 am) and reach one of the three towns before noon.

I find tracking down someone's restaurant recommendations can be rather time-consuming when you're on the move. I'd just look around the town you're in at lunchtime. Finding good food in Tuscany isn't hard.

dorkforcemom

You'll love La Saracina. We've stayed there many times. Simonetta (the owner) would be glad to make dinner reservations for you. I'd recommend Latte di Luna in Pienza. They fill up by 7:30 - it's the closest to La Saracina. There's a public parking lot on the edge of Pienza that makes it and easy drive. Hope this helps...

KC2NYC

Why is Orvieto a better train destination than Florence? Looks like both are about 1hr away from let's say Montepulciano if I were to rent a car in either city. I agree that I shouldn't spend all Tuesday traveling so will try to do most of it in the AM but why Orvieto vs. Florence?

lmhornet

Palazzo Ravizza or Santa Caterina?

No contest. Palazzo Ravizza. You always want to stay right in the city.

Palazzo Ravizza is you classic European hotel experience: old wotld classic beaty in teir public spaces, lobby, breakfast room etc are great, but the rooms are nothing special.