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6 days, first timers in Paris

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6 days, first timers in Paris

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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 01:26 AM
  #61  
 
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I saw a phone snatched on boulevard de Sébastopol at noon this week. No need to go to Saint Denis to worry about that.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 05:01 AM
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You are scaring me....no family jewels and we're generally aware of surroundings (we both work in NYC, ride the buses and subway and know to watch our belongings), but this seems worse than the general poor city neighborhood.
PalenQ, I would've easily parted with my snack...but I would do that at home if someone on the street asked for whatever I might be eating. Or I would just go into the nearest store and buy them a meal. But it's possible that in a foreign city my reaction would be different, especially because of the language barrier. I would be afraid, and just give them my food.
I think we'll put St Denis on the list and decide there if to go or not. The "list" is already longer than what we can comfortably fit into 6 days, so we'll just need to prioritize.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 06:16 AM
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Enjoying the discussions. I have been to Paris a couple of times and did as much tourist stuff as we could. But what I remember most were the various art galleries big and small, the parks, and as some gave mentioned walkimg and discovering little out of the way cafes, cheese shops, bookstores, etc.

Tdudette i started reading your delightful trip report you posted and noticed you started out as tdudette and ended up with a seemingly different screen name. Or do i just need new glasses?
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by xyz99
You are scaring me....no family jewels and we're generally aware of surroundings (we both work in NYC, ride the buses and subway and know to watch our belongings), but this seems worse than the general poor city neighborhood.
PalenQ, I would've easily parted with my snack...but I would do that at home if someone on the street asked for whatever I might be eating. Or I would just go into the nearest store and buy them a meal. But it's possible that in a foreign city my reaction would be different, especially because of the language barrier. I would be afraid, and just give them my food.
I think we'll put St Denis on the list and decide there if to go or not. The "list" is already longer than what we can comfortably fit into 6 days, so we'll just need to prioritize.

People like to overdramatize. I'm in Paris a lot and even in St Denis (Refugee Kitchen work) and it's fine. But lots of people think that "many brown people" equals "unsafe". The Basilica is gorgeous, and it's an easy excursion from Paris.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 07:12 AM
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don't put words in my mouth Menachem. I don't equate 'brown' (or black for that matter) and 'unsafe'.

I happen to have been quite a lot in the 93 and have friends who live there. Actually one of those friends was blocked in his apartment when the police were firing thousands of rounds in a neighbour apartment that was used by the guys who had attacked Charlie. Another friend had her son robbed recently whilst he was standing on the balcony, on first floor, so even locals have to pay some attention.

St Denis is not a place where you can go without paying a little bit attention to your surroundings, contrary to central Paris.

It is not Chicago, far from it, But tourists can be easy prey.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 07:42 AM
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Saint Denis is a city with a population of more than 111,000. I understand that when tourist oriented people talk about it, they are referring to "old" Saint Denis with the basilica, the covered market, etc. However, that is not at all the reality of most of Saint Denis. I went to see a friend in Saint Denis today, and it was a glittering modern area of office buildings and extremely nice apartment blocks surrounding the Stade de France. My area of Paris is extremely poor in comparison. I get tired of people badmouthing an entire city just because there is a little area where they do not feel comfortable.

This said, Saint Denis is, I think, the suburban city with the highest percentage of immigrants in the country -- 31.6%. The French national average is 6.5%. Naturally, it should not be forgotten that the official definition of "immigrants" in France is "people who do not possess French citizenship." Once you are a French citizen, there are no more ethnic statistics, and that's how it should be, but you can imagine how people can extrapolate about second and third generations. They have totally missed the point. Saint Denis is one of the most dynamic cities in the country since immigrants are the future of "Old Europe" and its declining populations. They are to be embraced and encouraged rather than rejected. People who do not understand this are doomed.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 12:18 PM
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DH and I took metro to St. Denis and had no problems. Memory thinks there were multiple lines on that track and we had to make certain we got the one that went to St. D. Anyone know for sure? It is a beautiful church.

And about the garden tour at Versailles, the ones we saw were designed as "rooms" with themes.

Thanks, nanabee. My old Kindle wouldn't let me sign on to Fodor's so I used a new name. Sorry for any confusion. I bought a Kindle Fire and it has no trouble with TDudette.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 04:14 PM
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Interesting points of view, thanks. And I think I have a fair idea of what to expect. We're used to people of diverse backgrounds and means, used to watch our belongings and surroundings. While I understand that as in any big city there are areas that are less safe, I think the area around the basilica is safe. And it really looks beautiful.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by thibaut
St Eustache it was I was referrring to Swan, you're right. I never went inside of St Sulpice actually, so my remark is without substance.
​​​​​I was in the area of St. Sulpice. There was an incredible ceramics show in the square in the front of the church. This was in late June/early July. Not a large show, but a high caliber of art and craft. I would recommend it to all of you who are local.

The bells are powerful. Exterior columns are quite large.
Inside, it is a lovely church. I was impressed by the immense size, so much so that I checked Wikipedia and discovered:

At 113 metres long, 58 metres in width and 34 metres tall, it is only slightly smaller than Notre-Dame and thus the second largest church in the city.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by thibaut
don't put words in my mouth Menachem. I don't equate 'brown' (or black for that matter) and 'unsafe'.

I happen to have been quite a lot in the 93 and have friends who live there. Actually one of those friends was blocked in his apartment when the police were firing thousands of rounds in a neighbour apartment that was used by the guys who had attacked Charlie. Another friend had her son robbed recently whilst he was standing on the balcony, on first floor, so even locals have to pay some attention.

St Denis is not a place where you can go without paying a little bit attention to your surroundings, contrary to central Paris.

It is not Chicago, far from it, But tourists can be easy prey.
Not implying anything about you, so get off the horse. I work in St Denis every 4 weeks now, and that's on the "bad" side of town. For someone who just needs to go from the metro stop to the Basilica, it's perfectly safe, just as safe, or unsafe as central Paris is. I keep my wits about me in Paris, as I do in Amsterdam or London. And I do so in St Denis. It's not a no-go area, is all I'm saying.

By the way. the #13 metro from central Paris takes you to a metro stop that is a 5 minute walk from the Basilica. Couldn't be more convenient.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2018, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by xyz99
Interesting points of view, thanks. And I think I have a fair idea of what to expect. We're used to people of diverse backgrounds and means, used to watch our belongings and surroundings. While I understand that as in any big city there are areas that are less safe, I think the area around the basilica is safe. And it really looks beautiful.
When I first visited I understood what "nova lux" in gothic architecture really meant. What a revelation that building must have been. Light of a corporeal nature. It's visible even on the google streetmaps interior shots.
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Old Nov 24th, 2018, 03:38 PM
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menachem,
I had to google "nova lux" (I've never heard the term before) and look at internet interior photos, and it's amazing! "Lux" not as in luxury, but as in latin light, of course! And...wow!
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Old Nov 24th, 2018, 06:36 PM
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You might also check the Museum websites and see if there is anything special going on. I did that and found the Dior Exhibit at the Musee Des Arts Decoratif, (part of the Louvre) and we got tickets for that and it was just fabulous. We also found the Yves St. Laurent Museum that had just opened It's in his house in the 16th. So be sure to check and see if there is anything special going on that would be of interest. I ordered tickets on line and had them on my phone as well as printed them out.

You might also keep in mind that you will spend more time at some places than others. You have lots of time to plan so have fun researching. You might want to subscribe (free) to Bonjour Paris web publication. They have lots of interesting articles on what's going on in Paris, activities, restaurants, museums, shopping, shows, and so on.
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 06:01 AM
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crefloors,
Such temporary exhibitions sound really winderful. I remember years ago that we got to see a Faberge eggs exhibition in Stockholm this way, and loved it. Back then it was by chance, but I think I can do better now
I subscribed to the Bonjour Paris newsletter, lots of interesting things there. Thanks!
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 06:28 AM
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Stay Sulpice is best when you attend the 10:30 Sunday Mass and hear the delightful organ playing.


Thin
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Old Nov 25th, 2018, 02:32 PM
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I love just attending mass and absorbing everything.


Thin, Are you packing? I went with my short goose down and a jack wolfskin rain jacket. I love it for all the hidden pockets on the inside and can layer with the goose down. We go Orlando to Toronto on Tuesday, snow showers but that should not cause any delays hopefully.

We are staying on Rue Dupleix in the 15th this trip. Different location and hoping we like it.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 12:38 AM
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xyz99...

Best temporary exhibition we ever saw was one we also just happened upon. In Amsterdam, there is a adjunct to St. Petersburg's Hermitage Museum. They rotate collections -- every six month, I think. Once when we were in Amsterdam, they had the Hermitage's collection of paintings by Matisse and artists he influenced that blew us away. Pure luck that we were there.

ssander
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 04:53 AM
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Pepper,
I was just wondering what's the best thing to do on Sunday, and top of the list was mass at Notre Dame or Sacre Coeur and a stroll through Montmartre. Adding St.Sulpice to the list as a great alternative. Hmmmm, decisions, decisions...

ssander,
Aren't these lucky finds just wonderful? And memorable many years later, too.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 05:02 AM
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Find the Programme d'orgue for the current month at the St-Sulpice website. Select from the column on the left side of the main page. Music for the masses and the recitals afterwards is listed.

The organ at St-Sulpice is considered by many to be the finest in Paris. We have been there several times for mass as well as for special evening concerts.
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Old Nov 26th, 2018, 07:52 AM
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Please keep your schedule flexible enough to take the weather into account. Visiting la Sainte Chapelle on a sunny day is best for viewing the amazing stained glass windows. During my last visit, throngs of visitors came and went as I sat on one of the chairs, with one of the explanatory cards and my binoculars, and studied the artistry before me.
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