Very enjoyable and how wonderful to have a month! More, please.

schnauzer thanks for you comments
I have just read your trip report of your stay in Paris I'm envious

TDudette - are you going back to France? I so want to go back its like a magnet. We thought our next big trip would be somewhere else but I think I will have to find some room for more France.

If only the airfares wern't sooo expensive and hours flying so long

Working on more trip report

Regards aussie

Hopefully March 8-22 to Menton, Lyon and London. We want to slip over to Genoa and some of the Italian Riviera towns so chose Menton as a good border town.

Italy was our first magnet, although we've been back to France several times so do understand its siren call. Because of Italy and France, we haven't seen the U.S. much. The price and inconvenience of air travel will be deal killers for us pretty soon.

Looking forward to more of your report!

Yes Italy was my next magnet wanted to do Cinque Terre. Have been to Italy when young and did a tour of the major highlights would like to go back and do the smaller villages and countryside.

Also want to go to Ireland, mmm have to work out a way to combine it all with time to savour and not rush

Today we all decided take a walk around our local hillside. Followed the rocky path to the bottom of the valley, as we were walking we could hear voices along the track and were overtaken by some very fit older European hikers who were hiking a different track each day. At the base of the valley we emerged at the restaurant that we had driven to the other night, had a coffee break followed by an impromptu game of boules in the gravel car park (they had a set lying around and we couldn’t resist trying out our skills – or lack thereof) we then walked on to the Fort of Buoux. Quite a steep walk back up the other side of the valley to the Fort and paid our 3euro entrance fee, collected by a little of old lady who obviously lived in the only house on the hillside – she had a great array of pot plants.

The Fort is spread over a very large steep site and it involved some climbing. It is amazing to think that people lived up there and fought off the invaders. The climb was worthwhile and the views wonderful. We could see across our valley but from the other side, so a completely different perspective. It was a clear day so the view of Mt Ventoux was excellent too. There is a lot of restoration happening (workers were working on the little church that day – it would be very difficult hauling equipment and materials up to the site). We met a couple up the top savouring the view and eating their lunch. My stomach groaned as we hadn’t planned to walk so far that day so we did not pack lunch – it was just that once we started the walk, we were enticed to go further as the area was so interesting, the air was fresh, the day sunny and warm.

A long walk home was rewarded with a late lunch of cheeses, sausage, tomatoes and crackers. Tonight dinner was at Auberge de la Loube in Buoux. DH in his best French phoned the restaurant and left a message on the answering machine to book a table for sept heure. So we all piled in the Kangoo and drove the short distance to dinner. When we arrived the restaurant seemed to be closed so DH & Friend went in search of someone. They came across a dishevelled Frenchman who quite abruptly told them the restaurant was closed when DH mentioned the phone booking our Frenchman yelled NO, no sept heuer, huit heure. DH then asked in his best French could we have a drink, no says Frenchman, no glasses, no matter what DH tried we weren’t going to get in until 8pm. So we drove the few minutes back home and had a couple of drinks to wait.

With a little apprehension we go back to the restaurant for 8pm. When we arrived the only person in sight was another man tucking into a meal in the outside area (he later became the gopher, assistant and chief washer up – we think he was working for his dinner). We were shown in to a large room with a crackling fire, by the French man DH met earlier, who turned out to be Maurice the owner. What can I say he turned out to be a most charming host. The room was full of horse memorabilia, photos, paintings, riding equipment, horse busts, everything horsey you could imagine. We showed an interest in his collection and he warmed to us being our wine waiter, menu interpreter, order taker, photo taker and best of all chef. Such a delicious meal, we were the only people in the restaurant and had Maurice’s undivided attention. He chatted about food, wine and of courses, joined in our photos and was positively charming.

Entree was the famous ‘basket’ of 16 different dishes. Each dish had a unique flavour and tantalised our taste buds, and had our lips smacking.
The mains we had were lamb, cod with scallops, tripe and hare, accompanied by several different varieties of excellent wine. I love that you can purchase half bottles of wine something that we don’t have in Australia – so we could each choose our own desired drop. For desert Maurice gave us each our own special plate with raspberries, apple tart, walnut ice cream, meringue, shaved chocolate and crème anglaise, all presented with artistic flair. We were happily sated with food and wine and then Maurice said had something special to show us.

Maurice led us by lamp light along a path to a large shed. He slid back the door and showed us his prized possessions. A shed full of American sulkies, all fastidiously restored to their former grandeur. They had all the little trimmings, top hats, blankets, gloves etc carefully draped across the beautiful seats. He had 14 in all and we were all so impressed and amazed at their beauty that we didn’t even think to take a photo, they were exquisite! Maurice was so obviously so proud as he told of their history and how he had painstakingly restored them. It was a special ending to a remarkable evening.

How cool.

aussi_10

There is something about France, isn't there? Could be the water; could be the the language and culture, the laissez-faire attitude to life or is it just the wine?

aussie, I hope you are already thinking when you will go back, perhaps to revisit some of the sites or to explore new ones. We spent 6 months travelling in France in 2008, like you, all the way from downunder. We travelled with our then 3-year old toddler, a different kind of journey. We were forced to be slow travellers but that way, we got to experience France beyond being your usual tourists, but like pretend locals, especially in villages where we stayed for a substantial period.

And we must have crossed path, perhaps at the Lourmarin Friday market or Sunday at Coustellet! We returned last year for 2 months, between mid-August to mid-October. The weather as you know was glorious.

We leased the Kangoo the year before and once again leased a Partner Teppee, a Peugeot equivalent to the Kangoo, for our most recent trip. I wanted to bring it home! Pity neither is imported into Australia, a great touring car!

Your trip report brings back fond memories of our own sojourn - familiar experiences and familiar sights! I look forward to reading further instalments and your journey back up north to the Dordogne.

hoo roo!

s

I am loving this!

fantastic report aussi_10! bringing this report with me on our tour of paris and provence in april 2010.

Marking to read later. Great report.

Am still working on the next instalment, which will be the last of Provence, trying to get the photos up.

I have enjoyed many trip reports here and love to share our experiences. Feel it my duty to pass on any information I can.

jamikins I enjoyed your photos of your live report from Paris.

Wow 6 months and then another 2 I'm soo envious swagman, maybe we did cross paths at the markets, loved those markets. France lived up to all my expectations and much more. It was just the best of holidays.

aussie--
We are trying to decide between gites in Saignon and Buoux. What do you recommend?

ChrisS

Yes we looked at Saignon also because an expat Australian owns a place there. But in the end the rental was not big enough for the 6 of us. We checked out the place at Saignon and liked the location. It is a nice quiet village with great views and has a few more shops than Buoux, plus the bakery run by Christine Thomas, which was not opened the day we were there.

Buoux is about 8 mins away with a different outlook. There are no shops in Buoux so if you were looking at fresh pastries for breakfast, it would be a little further to go.

When we first arrived in Buoux we wondered whether it was too rural(not that any where there is far away) but in the end we loved wandering home to our little piece of heaven and our rural aspect. Not to mention the 3 great restaurants which we went to.

Where in Buoux is the property?

DH & I went almond gathering (we have almond trees on our estate) it was fun until the broom I was throwing up into the trees to knock them down got caught and nearly knocked us out when it finally fell down again after much shaking. We add the almonds to our salad made out of local produce. Needless to say we have been eating well, well too well. But best bargain of all is the cheap wines at the supermarket!

Bonnieux is a 10 minute drive from our farmhouse and a road we know so well by now. We round the corner and are greeted with a stunning profile view of the village overlooking the countryside. Bonnieux is a nice village to walk around, with steep narrow streets and great views. We hike to the church at the top of the hill to a vista point that has an orientation table pointing out various places across the valley to the Vaucluse Mountains. We drive on to the village of Menerbes of Peter Mayle fame – it is a quiet medieval village, looking over the patchwork landscape below. We were a little underwhelmed by Menerbes and so moved on to Lacoste which is also a quiet village – probably we are almost villaged out. - has any one seen the Russell Crowe movie ‘A Good Year’ supposedly set in Menerbes ( but not really). It didn’t get rave reviews but I loved it for the look at rural Provence and the ways of the French people, I liked it for the beautiful countryside also. - We stop at Café de la France and its spectacular overhanging terrace and enjoy a beer, wine or coffee and are entertained by a group of middle aged ladies resting after a gruelling bike ride. They are lamenting that they have ridden 50k today and still have 15 more before they meet their final night’s destination. We pass them later riding through the pretty road out of town, some of them far behind the group and we are glad that we are in our trusty Renaults. Although each day we have done soo much walking and climbing that all our eating and drinking of fine French fare hasn’t seemed to increase the waistlines too much. We stop off at a local winery on our way home, where we have to toss a stick to an eager dog ten times before he will let us into the tasting room.

The next morning was spent packing and cleaning up for our departure the next day for Sarlat. I enjoyed a final shower in our bathroom cave where I have to duck my head when washing my hair for fear of scraping my knuckles on the curved stone roof. But I loved this bathroom, loved my French chic bedroom with the thick stone walls and window looking out over the valley offering a beautiful sunrise each morning – did I mention we had fantastic weather, sunny every day for 2 weeks in Provence. Couldn’t ask for more!

For lunch we head to Bonnieux for our farewell meal at Le Fournil. This was a highly praised restaurant by many Fodorites; it is carved into a rock cliff and faces a pretty square. Le Fournil is the perfect combination of great food, great setting, and a reasonable price. It's built into the rock on which Bonnieux sits and the interior is arty and interesting. The food is modern, mixing Provence with outside influences. Our expressive waiter led us to our choices and there were no disappointments. We started with a Rinquinquin (a peach wine starter drink) mmm yum! For starters I had pumpkin and mushroom soup, DH pork & ginger terrine. My main was veal and DH fish, for dessert we chose chocolate ganache and rhubarb pannacotta. The flavours were exquisite and the service excellent and we were glad we had chosen Le Fournil for our final meal in Provence.

It is our last day in Buoux can't believe how fast the 2 weeks have gone. We have traipsed all over the countryside, driven along country lanes flanked by fruit trees, grape vines or market gardens. It is true the saying “no road is a wrong road in Provence”. Walked and walked through winding cobblestone streets, tasted every kind of patisserie imaginable, sipped too many delicious wines and sampled such local delicacies as: duck, lamb, hare, fish, snails, beef and the list goes on!. We have met some lovely French people and fellow tourists, they could not be friendlier.

Our days have been peppered with amusing and warming one off moments that have made our stay here that much more memorable. We have loved coming home from a day of touring and relaxing on our patio overlooking our magnificent valley and the Luberon mountains, with only the sound of nature to soothe our tired souls. For our stay here we wanted to savour the experience and take pleasure in the little things – there is still so much more to see and do but we leave with very happy hearts. Provence has more than lived up to our expectations. We have lovely stories and memories to treasure, the two weeks just flew by and we are longing to return. DH's French has continued to improve and we all use him as interpreter when the conversation gets tough, he loves using his French language skills (with flavours of Aussie) and the locals like conversing with him.

Our French Renault cars have served us well and the guys are doing a good job driving on the right hand (or in Aussie terms ‘wrong’) side of the road and around the narrow winding laneways. Tomorrow is our long drive to our new destination of the medieval village of in Sarlat in the Dordogne.

A final game of French Monopoly before bed!

The narrower the road, the less obvious which is the wrong side!

kerouac, yes we did encounter some very narrow roads. I remember us having to pull in the side mirrors so that we could pass another car. All the time holding our breath.

I think the hardest part was the first few days getting use to the cars, their width and judging how close to the big drop off over the edge was!

aussie, you are awesome for reporting your trip. It is a great help in planning mine. I am travelling to Provence this summer but alas, for only 4 or 5 nights. We reserved in St Remy, but it sounds like the place (Buoux, I haven't looked it up yet) is NE of Remy (Apt area?). I hope we can make it this far around the northern Luberon with only 2 days in St remy. We are staying 2 days in Cassis, but it sounds like you did a day trip there from up north and still had time to visit the Calanques! Maybe we should stay longer in Provence and do that, or maybe move on towards the riviera. Oh, so many choices, so little time! (life is grand when these are the dilemmas we face)

soliera

Personally I would spend more time in Provence, either in the Alpilles or in the Luberon.

Cassis is easily accessible from St Remy, according to Google Map, it takes less than 90 minutes using the A7. Staying one night in Cassis is a good idea though, on top of sampling great seafood, you can also visit some of the calanques, the most beautiful is arguably En Vau. Be sure to dine at Nino's, expensive but great food and service.

Enjoy!

s

soliera

Yes Buoux is NE of St Remy. We did a day trip to Cassis and it took us about 1&1/2hours. We had a lovely day there weather was great. I would probably put more days in Provence.

Even with 2 weeks in Provence there was so much more to see, I will just have to go back wont I!

Lots of people stay in St Remy and love it. My suggestion is just enjoy as much as you can, Provence it is a beautiful part of France. Soak up the atmosphere and enjoy!

I'm sure once you have been there you will want to go back and see more, that is what happened to us.

Have a lovely time

Aussie, loving your very full, most interesting report. I remember a week in Provence - just not enough time; but incredibly beautiful towns and villages, landscapes, - and very friendly, helpful residents!

Looking forward to Dordogne as we are headed there in May, after a week In Paris.

FP

Hi flowerpower

Glad you liked the report, Dordogne is coming have been so busy with work. What an inconvenience!

When I write the report I try to make sure I have the information accuate.

Maybe this weekend

Will be waitin; not to worry - we do not leave until May!

Having been to Provence I enjoy remembering our great drives through the countryside and meeting the wonderful, friendly people,eating fabulous food and just wandering...ahhh

I wanted to go back -
but DH wanted to see Dordogne!
Can't wait for your thoughts,
FP

Swagman and Aussie, i just revisited this thread and thank you so much for replies. I am obviously not going to see much of Provence but as you say, will probably be back. We did book 2 nights in Cassis, at a hotel (Mahogany) w/ sea views, don't think we will regret this as the day we leave St Remy we will probably travel to Aix or somewhere in the region and not arrive to Cassis until sunset (I'm hoping), which only gives us one full day in the area and I am a sea lover and am crazy anticipating the calanques. We will leave the 2nd day for the eastern Riviera and I need help with that, will try to start a thread, not much written on that or I can't find. Sorry Aussie to take up time on your thread. Aurvoire?

Aussie,
We (at least I ) am missing your reporting! It has been so much fun reading; please take time and come back..

If anything dreadful has happened, I am sorry;
Just wanted you to know you were missed,

Moneyburns
(formerly Flowerpower - long story-changed name!)

Ah sorry moneyburns
All work and no play time makes a dull life, have half written next segment will post soon.

Have just returned from a travel expo and I think an African Safari is calling next year!............will have to save my bikkies.

But first things first I will finish the trip report.

Aussie, Africa is dear to my heart, so I will be happy to at least answer questions or lead you in a direction when (and you will) get confused and overwhelmed;but it is AMAZING!
Start saving and go; (but not before you finish your report, LOL)

You will have the adventure of your life,


Moneyburns.

We took one long last look out over our valley and said a sad farewell to our stone farmhouse as we ambled along the ridge. It is -3, our coldest morning yet and a sprinkling of frost dust on the cropped lavender bushes, maybe it is an omen that the weather has turned and it is time to move on. We drive past the hunters out early with their guns, never ceases to amaze us that they hunt alongside the roads. They wear bright reflective jackets but it makes us wonder about early morning walkers. We also wonder whether Maurice (our restaurant friend) is amongst them as he tells us he often goes out shooting.

We had considered the longer more scenic route to Sarlat but in the end decided on the most direct option using auto routes and set the TomTom. Past the cities of Nimes, Montpellier with a lunch stop and driver change along the motorway at Toulouse. Months before when planning this journey I had considered a stop along the way in Carcassonne. But I think the males of our group are focussed on the end destination, oh well I will just have to go back! The trip is with no complications and we soon glimpse the lush green rolling hills of the Dordogne with fairy-tale cottages, in pastoral scenes, so different to Provence.

Ah Medieval Sarlat! We pass by turreted buildings with medieval windows and pull up at our next accommodation ‘Maison Sarlat’. We are greeted by the pretty grounds and gardens of a cute 2 story house. Our bedroom is upstairs with a narrow curved staircase with a low beam that DH hits his head on almost every time he descends them. This is our last of the accommodations that I booked over the internet and once again we are happy with our choice. Each couple has their own room and bathroom, the living room has an open fire which we light most nights.

We go for a walk down our street and happily realise that we are literally minutes from the main part of town. Sarlat is so old but charming it has a magical feeling, the town is essentially as it was hundreds of years ago: stone buildings, some with half timbering and slate roofs. After a simple dinner we wander back home through the deserted village with soft lights illuminating the magical buildings - it was enchanting.

We awake and remind ourselves it is Saturday so market day in Sarlat. We had actually cut our stay in Provence short by one day so that we could be here for the Saturday market. This market is wonderful - colourful, vibrant and interesting. The local produce is varied and wonderful. The brightly coloured canopies of the stalls add to the already spectacular sight of the medieval buildings around which the market is situated.

A walk round this market and you could miss out lunch. Tasty titbits are on offer, they range from walnuts, to cheese, sausages, cake, biscuits, oils, vinegars and wine. We purchase cheeses, large pains of bread and some punnets of fresh raspberries (my favourite) and sweet strawberries, also some scrumptious freshly made strawberry jam that we transport home in our suitcase. The lively and friendly banter of the stall holders, the smells and tastes of the food make this a must on a visit to this area.

In addition to the produce on offer, the market stretches along the main road of the town, here non food items can be found. So if you fancy buying a little memento of your stay, here you will find anything from beautifully crafted tablecloths, wooden ornaments, toys, flowers, clothes to name but a few. I was very happy with my purchases managing to get some special gifts for family and friends.

If you like markets, make this a must on your itinerary.

After a successful morning spent at the market we decided to take a drive around our local area, so we headed out to La Roque-Gageac 12 km from Sarlat. I had read that to get “wowed” by the Dordogne one of the first things a visitor should do is to take a Gaberes Caminade - (replicas of the flat bottomed crafts used in centuries past) - trip along the Dordogne River from Rogue Gageac to Castlenaud and back. Originally we were going to do this another day but hey a boat was about to depart and the weather was sunny with a crisp wind blowing.

As our boat ride started we gazed out at the village of La Roque-Gageac. It is in a magnificent location with a most dramatic setting, situated right beside the river, with many of its houses built directly into the face of the huge cliff that overhangs the village. Above this there are steep steps to incredible troglodyte caves with great views as well as a small botanical garden.

We purchased the ‘English’ headphones and were enchanted as we cruised along the crystal clear waters of the Dordogne River listening to her stories and tales of yester year. The tour took us as far as the bridge at Castlenaud where we were entertained by some teenagers jumping from the bridge whilst we took in the magnificent view of Castlenaud Castle grandly overlooking the River. We learnt that the Dordogne is a huge river with over 30 species of fish and meanders its way all the way to Bordeaux.

That night we wandered down into town studying menus, we chose a small popular restaurant where I ate yummy veggie soup, duck and an apple flan for desert. Home through the romantically lit medieval streets, that gave off a nice aura.

aussie...you have brought back delightful memories of my all to brief stay in Sarlat a few years ago. I LOVED the market there, and easily spent half a day wandering about all the market stalls. After reading your post above I think I should plan a return visit and stay much longer next time! :-)

Yes LowCountryIslander when looking for accommodations in the Dordogne, Sarlat was our number 1 choice and I'm glad I persisted with my search.

Everywhere we wanted to go was an easy exit from Sarlat and it was good to not have to find parking for the market days. I soo want to return everywhere in France!

Hopefully more reporting on the area to come soon from me.

Aussie_10,
Thanks so much for the Dordogne report! We will be there in May and I love reading about your experience!
Can't wait for more,
MoneyBurns

Thanks for the report. I am glad we are based just outside of Sarlat and will be there for the Saturday market the last Saturday of May! When will you be there moneyburns? We have 2 weeks from May 28-June 11.

Lovely!

I am still working on the next posting of my trip report.

Yes we are so glad we based ourselves in Sarlat area we easily branched out in all directions. You wont be disappointed in the market especially the saturday one its a good buzz. DH & I didn't go to the Wednesday market (we went to Font du Gaume) but our friends did and said it was good but not as many food merchants.

Sarlat has an excellent tourist information centre with very friendly and helpful guides.

So good to see you back; I know life interferes with Trip Reports, but yours are so good and fun to read....
we eagerly await the rest..
Thanks!

aussie_10

I am so glad I found your trip report! My husband and I will be in Provence in two weeks. You are providing a lot of helpful information. I am looking forward to going to the market.

You got me wondering if the car we rented is too big.

Thanks

Cafegoddess what size car have you rented. Ours wasn't that small. We certainly saw a lot smaller ones.

I think at the time of year you will be in France the traffic wont be too busy.

Have a great time you will love it

LLindaC, Sorry I did not see your March 20th question - unfortunately we will be leaving as you arrive; but I hope we leave with great memories and many opportunities to return!

Have a great trip,
Moneyburns

aussie_10

A Mercedes E Class. Yes I am so excited,this will be my first time in Provence and Cote d'Azur. I printed your trip report for my husband to read. Thanks aussie

I am topping this hoping Aussie_10 will notice interest is still here for her Dordogne portion of her great trip with friends.

Thanks Aussie!

MoneyB

you do need a small car for visiting villages and for parking. The smaller the better. Some streets are unbelievably narrow. You rarely will see large cars.