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5 weeks in Italy, continued…Orvieto, Naples, Amalfi Coast, and back to Rome

5 weeks in Italy, continued…Orvieto, Naples, Amalfi Coast, and back to Rome

Old Feb 19th, 2020, 11:30 AM
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KarenWoo,
Thanks for following! I’m pleased you’re enjoying the photos and comments.

Herculaneum is a real pleasure to visit - it’s not nearly as busy or crowded as Pompeii and, because it’s smaller and more intact, its easier to get a good sense of the place.

We did visit Paestum and loved it, too. It’s a very different experience - it’s notable for having 3 very intact Greek temples, although a Roman city was also built on top of the Greek site. And the Barlotti buffalo farm and restaurant was amazing! I’m still dreaming of the smoked mozzarella and the ricotta - oh, heavenly!

Last edited by progol; Feb 19th, 2020 at 12:16 PM.
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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 12:27 PM
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We ate at 2 restaurants in Atrani - Ristorante Savo, where we had the best lemon ravioli. And the lemon tiramisu...so good!


yes, this is lemon tiramisu!

We also ate at Mistral - more casual, but good.. We enjoyed pizza and a couple of pasta dishes.
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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 08:11 PM
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progol, still enjoying your report and wonderful pictures. I want that dessert! 😁
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 02:49 AM
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Thanks, SusanP! And it’s easy to have that dessert —- when you’re in Atrani!
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 05:20 AM
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So as travel becomes more precarious in the era of the coronavirus, here is a continuation of our southern Italy trip for the armchair traveler...

From Atrani, we made a day trip to Ravello, one of the most beautifully-sited locations of our trip. We walked from Atrani to Amalfi to catch the SITA bus to Ravello. The walk was no more than 10 minutes but it does go along the road for a few minutes. This wasn’t a problem but just want to give a head’s up, especially for those with children.

Ravello is one of the most gloriously sited towns and wins the Town with the most Spectacular Views award of our trip. You can’t help but ooh and ahh once you’re there. And there are even some worthwhile sites to see! Mind you, we are not trying to see everything – we have seen a lot but it was surprisingly leisurely.

We arrived early in the day and the Piazza Duomo, the main square, was surprisingly quiet. We loved the Duomo, so bright and airy, filled with mosaics. Such a delightful place! Look for the pulpit, sitting atop 6 spiral columns, and its ambo with its delightful mosaic of Jonah and the Whale – these are standouts.



The 2 “main” sights in Ravello are the Villa Rufolo, on the main square, and Villa Cimbrone, a bit of a walk through the . Both are worth visiting, though I’m partial to Villa Rufolo. The villa was built in the 13th century, and in the mid-19th century, renovated by Sir Francis Neville Reid, a Scottish botanist, who fell in love with it. And it’s easy to see why – the views are magnificent and the gardens are stunning.

Villa Cimbrone is a bit of a walk and we managed to get lost, even though it is one long circular path from start to end! Lots of ups and downs and by the time we got to the site, we were pretty tired. The villa is now a 5-star hotel, and we stroll through the very dreamy gardens with even more spectacular views. The weather couldn’t have been more perfect for our visit to Ravello!

We spent several delightful hours in Ravello and then took the bus–happily, the bus driver stopped in Atrani, so a very easy return back to lovely La Scogliera.


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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 05:31 AM
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Atrani to Amalfi walk...





And on to Ravello ....

A quiet Piazza Duomo, looking from the steps of the church


And the Duomo...


The ambo


Jonah and the Whale - detail


The pulpit


The spiral columns




Lovely mosaics throughout the Duomo




A section of the 12th C bronze doors







Last edited by progol; Feb 25th, 2020 at 05:55 AM.
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 06:01 AM
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But it’s the spectacular views that we are here for! And beautifully framed by the Villa Rufolo and its gardens. The villa, too, is charming, with its medieval ruins and mid-19th C rooms.

Villa Rufolo














The villa ain't bad, either!







Last edited by progol; Feb 25th, 2020 at 06:14 AM.
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 06:10 AM
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The Villa Cimbrone took some effort to find! I still don't know quite how we missed the turnoff, but there's one long circular path from the Piazza Duomo, with multiple turnoffs, and what should've been a 10-minute walk ended up being 2 or 3 times that. Lots of ups and downs along the way.

The gardens are lovely with their romantic English landscaping, and it's the "Terrace of Infinity" which is the standout, as it hovers high above the water and frames yet more stunning views!









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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 06:12 AM
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Ravello, in between villas....








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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 07:44 AM
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More gorgeous pics, progol. If we ever got to Ravello on our trip to the Amalfi 42 or so years ago I don't remember it so thanks for the tour. So beautiful. It's funny how these places that are supposed to be so easy to find can be so difficult, isn't it?
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 12:24 PM
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It's funny, it really shouldn't have been hard to find Villa Cimbrone, since there is really one main pathway - but there are turnoffs and we just missed it completely. But it wasn't so bad getting a little lost in Ravello!

I'm glad you're still enjoying the photos, annhig!
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 04:05 PM
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Wow; your photos are stunning. We were already planning a return visit to Naples with some time on the coast. You’ve given me lots of food for thought. Thanks for sharing! And Portugal is on our list for 2023 so I’m following along on your planning thread.
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Old Feb 25th, 2020, 10:35 PM
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So lovely. I’m taking notes!
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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 03:05 AM
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Thank you, indyhiker and Adelaidean! I"m so pleased you're still following along!

indyhiker, you're already planning 2023?! I've got so many trips in my brain but am trying to keep it only one year ahead at a time! But I admit, it's difficult
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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 03:39 AM
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I loved your travel itinerary! I have always maintained, if you love Italy , you must give yourself time to explore the place and do not go there with the fixed plan, just a general outline of where you would be headed and be prepared to take detours on whim and give yourself pleasant surprises. Best part about Italy from the travelers point of view is its excellent infrastructure, high speed trains, excellent buses, but just do not expect them to run on time. Italy is pretty relaxed when it comes to time
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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 05:16 AM
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alluring4,
Thank you! I’m glad you liked our itinerary!

These days, we do have a fixed itinerary, but I try to schedule enough time to see what we want in a relatively relaxed way. I think one of the important things I’ve learned is that we can’t see everything! So I have my must-sees, my priorities, and then whatever other sites/activities we might want to see or do. And so, I try to structure trips to allow down time as well as seeing at least some of the things on my list.

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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 05:34 AM
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These days, we do have a fixed itinerary, but I try to schedule enough time to see what we want in a relatively relaxed way. I think one of the important things I’ve learned is that we can’t see everything! So I have my must-sees, my priorities, and then whatever other sites/activities we might want to see or do. And so, I try to structure trips to allow down time as well as seeing at least some of the things on my list.>>

I'm sure that having time to relax adds a lot of enjoyment to my trips, Progol. IME dashing hither and thither every day makes it very difficult to process what I've have seen and done and not to mention wearing me out. And the longer the trip the more important it is.
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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 10:41 AM
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<<<Ravello is one of the most gloriously sited towns and wins the Town with the most Spectacular Views award of our trip. You can’t help but ooh and ahh once you’re there. >>>

Totally agree! And we couldn't help but gasp a few times on the bus ride to and from Ravello. At one point on the way up, the side of our bus actually scraped against the rocks for several feet on the right side when we met a car on a tight turn. What a wild ride. But so worth it. Really enjoying your report and your pictures.
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Old Feb 26th, 2020, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by progol View Post
Thank you, indyhiker and Adelaidean! I"m so pleased you're still following along!

indyhiker, you're already planning 2023?! I've got so many trips in my brain but am trying to keep it only one year ahead at a time! But I admit, it's difficult
I know; it’s ridiculous. I used to limit my planning (or at least conceptualizing) to the following year. Then it became two years and now I’m up to four years out. Certainly, nothing gets set in stone, but I like to start reading, keeping an eye out for info, trip reports, etc. I feel a little bereft when I’m not actively planning a trip.
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Old Feb 27th, 2020, 05:07 AM
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annhig, Our recent trip to Italy was fabulous, a lot because I lowered expectations of what we would do and see. Yet we still saw pretty much everything that we wanted to, so it was being realistic and giving ourselves enough time to relax.

john183 - it sounds like you had one H*&L of a bus ride! Ours wasn't quite that hair-raising. The views everywhere from Ravello were pretty stupendous.

indyhiker - I totally relate! I have lots of plans for the future - I just have been trying to contain them! Right now, I'm trying to focus on the immediate plans - having just canceled our trip to China, our upcoming trip to Spain and Portugal is starting to be a little uncertain with the continued spread of the coronavirus. But fingers crossed, we'll still be making the trip in whole or in part!
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