Our "Christmas Week in Paris" Experience
Jan 23rd, 2012, 02:28 PM
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Our "Christmas Week in Paris" Experience
December 26/27, 2011
Whether it was the movie MIDNIGHT IN PARIS, or a conversation about Paris with friends’ who had recently returned from a trip there, we felt the urge to experience the city over the Christmas holidays. Having visited Paris several times in the past, but always in spring or summer, we thought that the experience of being there over Christmas would be special. This idea just emerged in the fall, so we felt lucky to be able to book a non-stop to CDG for the day after Christmas. We did some homework on hotels, and thanks to input from folks on Fodor’s, we booked the Hotel Le Regent in the 6th, which turned out to be a good decision. Other than checking in with friends on Fodor’s , and taking notes from fellow Paris lovers, we didn’t have much time to do any other planning. With the exception of booking a concert for New Year’s Eve in St. Germain des Pres Eglise, we decided to just imbibe the experience of being in Paris, play each day by ear, and enjoy the holiday atmosphere.
On December 26, we awoke to a beautiful, sun-filled day. . .mid 30’s. . .a great day for flying. With all the other holiday happenings, and the rush to pack, we were happy that the weather would present no flight concerns. As usual, we left a bit early for our 5:45 PM flight, preferring to have a cushion of time rather than last minute anxiety. As we were heading along our normal freeway route, we noticed an unusual traffic clog. A quick call to Artimis gave us the emergency message that the freeway had just been SHUT DOWN! (Upon returning home from our trip we learned the very sad news that a lady had made a suicidal jump from her car. We were glad that we didn’t know this at the time!) Just in the knick of time before getting stuck on that freeway with no close exits, and who knows how long of a delay, we were able to change lanes and switch to an alternative route. After dodging that bullet, we had a smooth ride to the airport, parked the car, and had time for a Starbucks and lite bite before boarding our flight.
This Delta 767 flight was full, as are many flights these days. As an experiment, we had paid an extra $80. P.P. for Premium Economy seats, after having checked them out on Seatguru. Our Row 21 was an exit row, and it did turn out to be a benefit to have more leg room and an easier in and out access for restroom breaks. Boarding went smoothly, with the flight attendants scrambling to assist everyone with getting their carry-on luggage stowed. It was now dark outside, and our flight was pushing away from the gate at 5:45 sharp. About ½ hour into the flight, the attendants came around with snacks and drinks, including beer and wine, and informed us that hard liquor was complementary in Premium Economy. However, for us it was a merlot and Heineken. The flight was smooth, with the exception of a couple of bumpy areas over the Atlantic. About 1 ½ hours into the flight, dinner was served. Not comparing it with the food on Singapore Air, which we’ve flown over the past two years, the meal was decent. The cabin was quite cool, but with our layers, and a down puffer coat as an extra blanket, we were comfortable and attempted to catch some shut-eye. Our MP3’s helped muffle the cabin noise. Before landing, coffee/juice and a breakfast snack was served. . .enough to give a little pick-up. Our flight arrived a ½ hour early. The huge size of CDG made for a long taxi to the terminal, and we had a few minutes’ wait for the gate agents. Immigration went fairly quickly. Before de-planing, we were given a luggage carousel number 45 which turned out not to be non-existent. But with a little searching, we spotted ours on another carousel. Although air travel is sometimes fraught with frustrations, this flight was pleasant. We thought the Premium Economy Seats were worth it under the cirumstances.
With luggage in tow, we proceeded to the Terminal to meet Victor’s Taxi Service for a tranport to our hotel. (Thanks to Denisea for the suggestion of Victor.) We didn’t see anyone carrying a sign with our name, but upon asking a nice lady at the Tourist Info desk who phoned Victor‘s Taxi Service, we found out that the driver was sitting at the Exresso Bar waiting for us. (A great place to meet!) As we left the airport in a nice Mercedes en route to downtown Paris, we found out that the driver from Victor’s Taxi Service was Victor himself. We had a nice conversation, and Victor shared some interesting information about life in Paris and pointed out things of interest along the way. As we approached the city centre, a soft sun was shining on the Arc de Triomphe. . .a warm welcome to this wonderful city. Victor didn’t need our printed card containing our hotel address, useful for many taxi drivers. He had us dialed in on his GPS, and in a matter of minutes we were pulling up to the Hotel Le Regent on Rue Dauphine, about two blocks down from Pont Neuf. Before unloading our luggage, we made arrangements for Victor to provide our transport back to the airport, although at this time we hated to think of our return trip!
Before leaving home, we had e-mailed the Hotel Le Regent, telling them of our very early arrival, requesting that we might check our luggage. But upon approaching the reception desk, the lady informed us that our room would be ready in about ten minutes. Just a perfect opportunity to cross the street to the Café Buci for our first sampling of delicious glazed croissants and café crème. At this early hour, most of Paris had not yet awoken, so the streets were pretty quiet. Upon returning to the hotel, we found that our hotel room was ready. A word about the hotel: Hotel Le Regent is a typical little French hotel. . .small reception and lobby, very small elevator, and small rooms. We booked the standard room, thinking it was not worth the 50 or so extra Euros per day to upgrade. Our room # 14 was very small, as described, but had everything one would need: mini-frig, safe, armoire-type closet, flat panel TV, hair-dryer, etc. The décor was attractive and the hotel was very clean. We joked that the lobby and elevator must be the cleanest in Paris, as each time we passed through, the same man was cleaning! The bathroom in our room was very, very small; in fact, when we inquired at the desk, we were told that other standard rooms had bathrooms that were a bit roomier. Next time! The hotel staff were all very friendly and helpful. Our favorite thing about the hotel was its great location on Rue Dauphine-right at a 5-point intersection of little streets. Cafes, boulangeries, restaurants, little shops, pharmacie. . .all were right at our doorstep. On previous trips to Paris, we’ve stayed in the 7th, in the Marais, near the Arc de Triomphe, etc. but we found this location to be our favorite.
The sun we witnessed as we entered Paris must have been a tease, because as we left our hotel, intending to have our first stroll along the Seine, the sky was overcast and a slight wind had created a chill. . .just enough that our stroll along the river was short-lived. We also knew at this point that our traditional jet-lag day boat ride on the Seine would have to be postponed. We crossed the Quai and did window shopping as we made our way toward Notre Dame. As we got closer, a sign listing “croque monsieurs” and “croque madames”, with a colorful restaurant host at the door flagging people into the Café de Petit Pont, found us enjoying our favorite lunch selections while looking out onto Notre Dame. Before our trip, we wondered how different it would feel in Paris without all the sidewalks cafes. Our first lunch gave us the answer. Heavy clear vinyl fitted over metal framing with propane gas heaters allowed the same space and tables to be used in the winter.
After that tasty lunch, we made our way across the Petit Pont to approach Notre Dame. Again. . .a first for us. . .seeing the large Christmas tree in front of the cathedral! Although there were quite a few people in the square in front of Notre Dame, and waiting in line to get into the cathedral, it was a comfortable-sized crowd which we came to appreciate as we witnessed the numbers growing exponentially as the week went on. Inside Notre Dame, the main Christmas flowers were red anthuriums, instead of poinsettias, and at the creche, some spring flowers were sprinkled among the greenery. Even though we’ve visited Notre Dame a number of times, we always find ourselves spending a couple of hours there. In spite of the overcast skies, the rose windows were outstanding! However, at this point, both of us felt our energy waning; in fact, we were dragging. We had arrived fighting colds, fatigued from all the holiday celebration at home, and having gotten little sleep on the flight. So, contrary to our normal pattern when traveling to Europe, we decided to head back to our hotel to catch a brief rest in order to gather a little energy for a first Parisian dinner.
It worked! After about three hours or so, we were ready to head out to a local restaurant for a light dinner. Darkness had fallen, and as we stepped out of the hotel, we were greeted with the colorful holiday lights on the buildings, and strung across the streets. A tip from the hotel receptionist led us to the restaurant L’Atlas, just a short block down from our hotel. It was a perfect find. For our first evening: French onion soup! And steak frites. . .with wine, of course Topped off with some ice cream. During the meal we had a great conversation with a native English couple who had moved to Paris. They described L’Atlas as their favorite local restaurant. We knew we would return, especially for one of their house specialties: moules.
The only downside to our late afternoon rest, and long conversation at dinner, was that instead of getting on a more regular Paris time schedule, we didn’t get to bed until midnight, and by then were in for a full night of very deep sleep. But, all in all, we thought that we had had a great first day in Paris!
PS ADDENDUM This is our second composition of this report. Yesterday, after we had written, edited, and previewed our report, I must have accidently hit a key on my laptop which caused the whole report to delete. Still don't know what I did. After working for a time trying to retrieve it, I decided to compose it on Microsoft Word and do a "Copy and Paste" to this site. That way I could SAVE as I went on. Just a thought to share. Hope to do another part of our report soon.
Whether it was the movie MIDNIGHT IN PARIS, or a conversation about Paris with friends’ who had recently returned from a trip there, we felt the urge to experience the city over the Christmas holidays. Having visited Paris several times in the past, but always in spring or summer, we thought that the experience of being there over Christmas would be special. This idea just emerged in the fall, so we felt lucky to be able to book a non-stop to CDG for the day after Christmas. We did some homework on hotels, and thanks to input from folks on Fodor’s, we booked the Hotel Le Regent in the 6th, which turned out to be a good decision. Other than checking in with friends on Fodor’s , and taking notes from fellow Paris lovers, we didn’t have much time to do any other planning. With the exception of booking a concert for New Year’s Eve in St. Germain des Pres Eglise, we decided to just imbibe the experience of being in Paris, play each day by ear, and enjoy the holiday atmosphere.
On December 26, we awoke to a beautiful, sun-filled day. . .mid 30’s. . .a great day for flying. With all the other holiday happenings, and the rush to pack, we were happy that the weather would present no flight concerns. As usual, we left a bit early for our 5:45 PM flight, preferring to have a cushion of time rather than last minute anxiety. As we were heading along our normal freeway route, we noticed an unusual traffic clog. A quick call to Artimis gave us the emergency message that the freeway had just been SHUT DOWN! (Upon returning home from our trip we learned the very sad news that a lady had made a suicidal jump from her car. We were glad that we didn’t know this at the time!) Just in the knick of time before getting stuck on that freeway with no close exits, and who knows how long of a delay, we were able to change lanes and switch to an alternative route. After dodging that bullet, we had a smooth ride to the airport, parked the car, and had time for a Starbucks and lite bite before boarding our flight.
This Delta 767 flight was full, as are many flights these days. As an experiment, we had paid an extra $80. P.P. for Premium Economy seats, after having checked them out on Seatguru. Our Row 21 was an exit row, and it did turn out to be a benefit to have more leg room and an easier in and out access for restroom breaks. Boarding went smoothly, with the flight attendants scrambling to assist everyone with getting their carry-on luggage stowed. It was now dark outside, and our flight was pushing away from the gate at 5:45 sharp. About ½ hour into the flight, the attendants came around with snacks and drinks, including beer and wine, and informed us that hard liquor was complementary in Premium Economy. However, for us it was a merlot and Heineken. The flight was smooth, with the exception of a couple of bumpy areas over the Atlantic. About 1 ½ hours into the flight, dinner was served. Not comparing it with the food on Singapore Air, which we’ve flown over the past two years, the meal was decent. The cabin was quite cool, but with our layers, and a down puffer coat as an extra blanket, we were comfortable and attempted to catch some shut-eye. Our MP3’s helped muffle the cabin noise. Before landing, coffee/juice and a breakfast snack was served. . .enough to give a little pick-up. Our flight arrived a ½ hour early. The huge size of CDG made for a long taxi to the terminal, and we had a few minutes’ wait for the gate agents. Immigration went fairly quickly. Before de-planing, we were given a luggage carousel number 45 which turned out not to be non-existent. But with a little searching, we spotted ours on another carousel. Although air travel is sometimes fraught with frustrations, this flight was pleasant. We thought the Premium Economy Seats were worth it under the cirumstances.
With luggage in tow, we proceeded to the Terminal to meet Victor’s Taxi Service for a tranport to our hotel. (Thanks to Denisea for the suggestion of Victor.) We didn’t see anyone carrying a sign with our name, but upon asking a nice lady at the Tourist Info desk who phoned Victor‘s Taxi Service, we found out that the driver was sitting at the Exresso Bar waiting for us. (A great place to meet!) As we left the airport in a nice Mercedes en route to downtown Paris, we found out that the driver from Victor’s Taxi Service was Victor himself. We had a nice conversation, and Victor shared some interesting information about life in Paris and pointed out things of interest along the way. As we approached the city centre, a soft sun was shining on the Arc de Triomphe. . .a warm welcome to this wonderful city. Victor didn’t need our printed card containing our hotel address, useful for many taxi drivers. He had us dialed in on his GPS, and in a matter of minutes we were pulling up to the Hotel Le Regent on Rue Dauphine, about two blocks down from Pont Neuf. Before unloading our luggage, we made arrangements for Victor to provide our transport back to the airport, although at this time we hated to think of our return trip!
Before leaving home, we had e-mailed the Hotel Le Regent, telling them of our very early arrival, requesting that we might check our luggage. But upon approaching the reception desk, the lady informed us that our room would be ready in about ten minutes. Just a perfect opportunity to cross the street to the Café Buci for our first sampling of delicious glazed croissants and café crème. At this early hour, most of Paris had not yet awoken, so the streets were pretty quiet. Upon returning to the hotel, we found that our hotel room was ready. A word about the hotel: Hotel Le Regent is a typical little French hotel. . .small reception and lobby, very small elevator, and small rooms. We booked the standard room, thinking it was not worth the 50 or so extra Euros per day to upgrade. Our room # 14 was very small, as described, but had everything one would need: mini-frig, safe, armoire-type closet, flat panel TV, hair-dryer, etc. The décor was attractive and the hotel was very clean. We joked that the lobby and elevator must be the cleanest in Paris, as each time we passed through, the same man was cleaning! The bathroom in our room was very, very small; in fact, when we inquired at the desk, we were told that other standard rooms had bathrooms that were a bit roomier. Next time! The hotel staff were all very friendly and helpful. Our favorite thing about the hotel was its great location on Rue Dauphine-right at a 5-point intersection of little streets. Cafes, boulangeries, restaurants, little shops, pharmacie. . .all were right at our doorstep. On previous trips to Paris, we’ve stayed in the 7th, in the Marais, near the Arc de Triomphe, etc. but we found this location to be our favorite.
The sun we witnessed as we entered Paris must have been a tease, because as we left our hotel, intending to have our first stroll along the Seine, the sky was overcast and a slight wind had created a chill. . .just enough that our stroll along the river was short-lived. We also knew at this point that our traditional jet-lag day boat ride on the Seine would have to be postponed. We crossed the Quai and did window shopping as we made our way toward Notre Dame. As we got closer, a sign listing “croque monsieurs” and “croque madames”, with a colorful restaurant host at the door flagging people into the Café de Petit Pont, found us enjoying our favorite lunch selections while looking out onto Notre Dame. Before our trip, we wondered how different it would feel in Paris without all the sidewalks cafes. Our first lunch gave us the answer. Heavy clear vinyl fitted over metal framing with propane gas heaters allowed the same space and tables to be used in the winter.
After that tasty lunch, we made our way across the Petit Pont to approach Notre Dame. Again. . .a first for us. . .seeing the large Christmas tree in front of the cathedral! Although there were quite a few people in the square in front of Notre Dame, and waiting in line to get into the cathedral, it was a comfortable-sized crowd which we came to appreciate as we witnessed the numbers growing exponentially as the week went on. Inside Notre Dame, the main Christmas flowers were red anthuriums, instead of poinsettias, and at the creche, some spring flowers were sprinkled among the greenery. Even though we’ve visited Notre Dame a number of times, we always find ourselves spending a couple of hours there. In spite of the overcast skies, the rose windows were outstanding! However, at this point, both of us felt our energy waning; in fact, we were dragging. We had arrived fighting colds, fatigued from all the holiday celebration at home, and having gotten little sleep on the flight. So, contrary to our normal pattern when traveling to Europe, we decided to head back to our hotel to catch a brief rest in order to gather a little energy for a first Parisian dinner.
It worked! After about three hours or so, we were ready to head out to a local restaurant for a light dinner. Darkness had fallen, and as we stepped out of the hotel, we were greeted with the colorful holiday lights on the buildings, and strung across the streets. A tip from the hotel receptionist led us to the restaurant L’Atlas, just a short block down from our hotel. It was a perfect find. For our first evening: French onion soup! And steak frites. . .with wine, of course Topped off with some ice cream. During the meal we had a great conversation with a native English couple who had moved to Paris. They described L’Atlas as their favorite local restaurant. We knew we would return, especially for one of their house specialties: moules.
The only downside to our late afternoon rest, and long conversation at dinner, was that instead of getting on a more regular Paris time schedule, we didn’t get to bed until midnight, and by then were in for a full night of very deep sleep. But, all in all, we thought that we had had a great first day in Paris!
PS ADDENDUM This is our second composition of this report. Yesterday, after we had written, edited, and previewed our report, I must have accidently hit a key on my laptop which caused the whole report to delete. Still don't know what I did. After working for a time trying to retrieve it, I decided to compose it on Microsoft Word and do a "Copy and Paste" to this site. That way I could SAVE as I went on. Just a thought to share. Hope to do another part of our report soon.
Jan 23rd, 2012, 04:03 PM
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Hmmm...I recall someone recently mentioning that Victor had no-showed them at CDG...wonder if they were at the Espresso Bar. Glad it worked and I look forward to the rest.
Today was gray and rainy and my flight was 3 hours late; I found myself really missing Paris, so thanks for the "fix"!
Today was gray and rainy and my flight was 3 hours late; I found myself really missing Paris, so thanks for the "fix"!
Jan 23rd, 2012, 04:50 PM
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“About ½ hour into the flight, the attendants came around with snacks and drinks, including beer and wine, and informed us that hard liquor was complementary in Premium Economy.”
Interesting info – “spirits” no longer free on Delta Atlantic crossings, eh? For regular tourists that is . Personally, I only drink wine, but I know several folks who would be disconcerted at that news.
Tomarkot, looking forward to the rest of your holiday trip to Paris…
Interesting info – “spirits” no longer free on Delta Atlantic crossings, eh? For regular tourists that is . Personally, I only drink wine, but I know several folks who would be disconcerted at that news.
Tomarkot, looking forward to the rest of your holiday trip to Paris…
Jan 24th, 2012, 02:33 AM
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Thanks for the report, tomarkot. We've stayed at Le Regent in the past but never in a standard room. The upgrade is worth it much like the premium economy. We pay dearly for a precious few square inches or feet but so worth it!
We've stayed all over Paris (and never had a bad experience) but we love the area around Le Regent best!
Waiting for more!
We've stayed all over Paris (and never had a bad experience) but we love the area around Le Regent best!
Waiting for more!
Jan 24th, 2012, 07:08 PM
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December 28th
On our first overnight in Paris, we slept well; in fact, so well that, when we awoke on the 28th, it was late morning. Contrary to yesterday when we had our café crème and croissants while the streets were still quiet, today the neighborhood was alive, and the price of our little petit dejeuner rose from 7.50 EUR at the bar, to 13.60 EUR as we sat at a café table. (This price difference was especially noted by DH!) The outgoing, good-humored waitress, who seemed to know many of the customers, made it worthwhile to have a table “on the sidewalk”; vinyl enclosed and heated! It was a great start to our day.
Although there was no sun, and temperatures were again in the low 40’s, the wind of yesterday had subsided. We walked up to Boul. St. Germain, near the Odeon Metro, and caught a taxi to Musee Jacquemart Andre. En route, we enjoyed the sights and holiday decorations. As we approached the museum, we witnessed large crowds clamoring around the entrance. Having been to other popular museums on previous trips to Paris, always purchasing a Museum Pass, we naively thought that this smaller museum would not be so known and visited. So, our one regret of the trip: not having pre-purchased tickets on-line at home. Along with us, there were quite a few other disappointed people. An older gentleman, the “gate controller” at the museum, spoke so brusquely and rapidly in French that even the French people had a difficult time understanding him. From his tone, it wasn’t difficult to ascertain that there were no tickets available, and this was confirmed by a French-speaking couple next to us. Oh well! This museum would be something “on our list” for a future visit. So. . .to re-group. . .we decided to grab a taxi down to the Arc de Triomphe area. The friendly driver told us that there was a minimum charge (6.30 EUR) so he offered to give us a “tour” of side streets along the way to the Arc to meet our minimum amount. Very nice of him! It was quite a feat when he made a U-turn on the Champs in order to us let off near the Arc! After the taxi ride, we enjoyed re-visiting the little neighborhood around Ave. de Friedland where we had stayed on a former trip. So many interesting little shops. No matter how many times we visit Paris, we always enjoy seeing the Arc de Triomphe, and strolling on the Champs! When it was approaching our lunch time, we settled upon Café George V. . .mainly because its menu had luncheon offerings which we liked and we were able to get a front “sidewalk table” in order to people-watch where diversity was truly in evidence. It was a very leisurely-paced lunch , as are most meals in Paris. (35 EUR for lunch with wine). Wandering from shop to shop along the Champs can consume more time than one realizes! The one store which surprised us with its large crowd was the Mercedes dealership. We wandered down Ave. George V, window-shopping at the high-end shops, intending to have dessert and coffee at the Four Seasons. However, as we entered the gorgeously-decorated lobby, and made our way over to the bar and restaurant areas, we discovered each to be full, with the host telling us that they were booked with reservations for the remaining hours. So we enjoyed the beautiful decorations inside the Four Seasons, and found a wonderful little dessert stop up the street: Le Paradis Du Fruit, a classy spot with a great variety of desserts and cafes.
By now, it was dark. As we headed back up Ave. George V toward the Champs, the lights of the Fouquet Restaurant stole the show on one corner, while quite a large crowd had lined the opposite side of the street; so much so that we wondered if maybe there was a concert venue nearby. But not so. They were all waiting to get into Louis Vuitton! A policeman was at the door controlling the flow.
Even though there were throngs of people on and around the Champs, with a large variety of languages in evidence, it was fun to weave in and out of the crowds and witness the excitement amidst all the colorful decorations. Having seen photos of the Champs Elysees with the blue lights, we were surprised that they also turned to red. Standing in the middle strip while crossing the street, one could look from the lighted Arc in one direction to the ferris wheel at the Place de la Concorde. Quite a beautiful sight!
We decided that it was time to grab a cab and head back to our ‘hood for dinner. Our driver did not speak English, but he seemed to sense that we were enjoying the lights, and as we traveled, he would stop at the major sites so that we could snap pictures. We arrived back at our hotel close to 7 PM, and after a quick freshening-up, headed out to dinner at a popular local restaurant, Chez Fernand. Again, the convenience of our hotel was a plus as the restaurant was just about two blocks away Our meal: French onion soup for both, with each of us having a different fish plat. Together with wine and café, our bill was 95.50 EUR. (One humorous note was that when we ordered café crème after our meal, the waiter was amused, saying that the French only drink that for petit dejeuner!)
Following a short after-dinner stroll, we had an interesting conversation with the night desk clerk about the high real estate prices and other costs in central Paris. (13,000 EUR per metre. . .for a small 20 metre apartment, 260,000 EUR.) As in NYC, many of the hotel and restaurant employees live outside the city.
After returning to our room, we recounted our enjoyable day, checked the BBC news, and decided to “turn in” so as to be ready for another nice day in Paris!
On our first overnight in Paris, we slept well; in fact, so well that, when we awoke on the 28th, it was late morning. Contrary to yesterday when we had our café crème and croissants while the streets were still quiet, today the neighborhood was alive, and the price of our little petit dejeuner rose from 7.50 EUR at the bar, to 13.60 EUR as we sat at a café table. (This price difference was especially noted by DH!) The outgoing, good-humored waitress, who seemed to know many of the customers, made it worthwhile to have a table “on the sidewalk”; vinyl enclosed and heated! It was a great start to our day.
Although there was no sun, and temperatures were again in the low 40’s, the wind of yesterday had subsided. We walked up to Boul. St. Germain, near the Odeon Metro, and caught a taxi to Musee Jacquemart Andre. En route, we enjoyed the sights and holiday decorations. As we approached the museum, we witnessed large crowds clamoring around the entrance. Having been to other popular museums on previous trips to Paris, always purchasing a Museum Pass, we naively thought that this smaller museum would not be so known and visited. So, our one regret of the trip: not having pre-purchased tickets on-line at home. Along with us, there were quite a few other disappointed people. An older gentleman, the “gate controller” at the museum, spoke so brusquely and rapidly in French that even the French people had a difficult time understanding him. From his tone, it wasn’t difficult to ascertain that there were no tickets available, and this was confirmed by a French-speaking couple next to us. Oh well! This museum would be something “on our list” for a future visit. So. . .to re-group. . .we decided to grab a taxi down to the Arc de Triomphe area. The friendly driver told us that there was a minimum charge (6.30 EUR) so he offered to give us a “tour” of side streets along the way to the Arc to meet our minimum amount. Very nice of him! It was quite a feat when he made a U-turn on the Champs in order to us let off near the Arc! After the taxi ride, we enjoyed re-visiting the little neighborhood around Ave. de Friedland where we had stayed on a former trip. So many interesting little shops. No matter how many times we visit Paris, we always enjoy seeing the Arc de Triomphe, and strolling on the Champs! When it was approaching our lunch time, we settled upon Café George V. . .mainly because its menu had luncheon offerings which we liked and we were able to get a front “sidewalk table” in order to people-watch where diversity was truly in evidence. It was a very leisurely-paced lunch , as are most meals in Paris. (35 EUR for lunch with wine). Wandering from shop to shop along the Champs can consume more time than one realizes! The one store which surprised us with its large crowd was the Mercedes dealership. We wandered down Ave. George V, window-shopping at the high-end shops, intending to have dessert and coffee at the Four Seasons. However, as we entered the gorgeously-decorated lobby, and made our way over to the bar and restaurant areas, we discovered each to be full, with the host telling us that they were booked with reservations for the remaining hours. So we enjoyed the beautiful decorations inside the Four Seasons, and found a wonderful little dessert stop up the street: Le Paradis Du Fruit, a classy spot with a great variety of desserts and cafes.
By now, it was dark. As we headed back up Ave. George V toward the Champs, the lights of the Fouquet Restaurant stole the show on one corner, while quite a large crowd had lined the opposite side of the street; so much so that we wondered if maybe there was a concert venue nearby. But not so. They were all waiting to get into Louis Vuitton! A policeman was at the door controlling the flow.
Even though there were throngs of people on and around the Champs, with a large variety of languages in evidence, it was fun to weave in and out of the crowds and witness the excitement amidst all the colorful decorations. Having seen photos of the Champs Elysees with the blue lights, we were surprised that they also turned to red. Standing in the middle strip while crossing the street, one could look from the lighted Arc in one direction to the ferris wheel at the Place de la Concorde. Quite a beautiful sight!
We decided that it was time to grab a cab and head back to our ‘hood for dinner. Our driver did not speak English, but he seemed to sense that we were enjoying the lights, and as we traveled, he would stop at the major sites so that we could snap pictures. We arrived back at our hotel close to 7 PM, and after a quick freshening-up, headed out to dinner at a popular local restaurant, Chez Fernand. Again, the convenience of our hotel was a plus as the restaurant was just about two blocks away Our meal: French onion soup for both, with each of us having a different fish plat. Together with wine and café, our bill was 95.50 EUR. (One humorous note was that when we ordered café crème after our meal, the waiter was amused, saying that the French only drink that for petit dejeuner!)
Following a short after-dinner stroll, we had an interesting conversation with the night desk clerk about the high real estate prices and other costs in central Paris. (13,000 EUR per metre. . .for a small 20 metre apartment, 260,000 EUR.) As in NYC, many of the hotel and restaurant employees live outside the city.
After returning to our room, we recounted our enjoyable day, checked the BBC news, and decided to “turn in” so as to be ready for another nice day in Paris!
Jan 26th, 2012, 10:18 AM
#17
Ah, Chez Fernand. Loved our lunch there. Sorry you missed out on Musee Jacquemart Andre, but we didn't get there until my 10th trip, so something to look forward to on your next Paris journey. Looking forward to reading about the rest of your trip.
Jan 26th, 2012, 01:13 PM
#19
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Oh my, the George V is lovely at Christmas isn't ?
That LV flagship store is always packed! I don't even like their purses that much, but I would never stand in line just to get in. There was a line down Ave George V when we were there in November.
That LV flagship store is always packed! I don't even like their purses that much, but I would never stand in line just to get in. There was a line down Ave George V when we were there in November.
Jan 26th, 2012, 04:53 PM
#20
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Denisea, we're with you on not standing in a long line for LV. It's always great to hear your responses. Although we love to travel, this is only our 2nd trip report. But we've experienced that we enjoy reading the reports of others, and as we write ours (maybe too detailed) we're finding that it's a nice "journal" of our trip. . .better than the copious notebooks we usually fill. We hope to post our next segment soon, and appreciate the interest of you and other Fodorites. We want to keep up with your Rome/AC trip; we'll catch up with you on your "Italy" post.
