At this point I will pass the trip report over to DM. I had taken pretty good notes in Paris, but by the time we got to Italy my journal will simply say for a day's activities "walked, ate, museum, ate, walked, ate, ate."

bmarking to read later!

What type of compartment did you have on the train?

This is bubblywine's mother taking over the trip report now. She'll chime in, but we're switching writers.

Day 11
Venice
Sleeping on a night train is a challenge. In this case it was cold and the blanket was thin, the pillow flat and the mattress hard. We were sharing our car w/ an Italian couple in their 40’s, which turned out to be very fortunate. So we arranged our bags at our feet and gave it a try. Eventually we slept.

At 6 a.m. we awoke to a woman screaming (I told you we have bad train voodoo.) Screaming and screaming that she’d been robbed. Apparently someone had stolen her jewels and money, just like in the movies. We half expected Inspector Clouseau to arrive, it was all very odd. Everyone was coming out of their cabins to the hallway to see what had happened.

One of our nice compartment mates went out to find out what was up. He came back and reported that she was on her way home to Venice from a trip to China and was carrying substantial amounts of jewelry. Again, odd. It was in a bag and it was gone. She was hysterical. Several other cars reported that they too had been robbed! Everyone was yelling at the train conductor in the hallway and he said the train stops, people get on, they get off. He can’t control that. He said this happens on the night train.

The four of us then piled back into our compartment and discussed this at length: what had we heard and seen. It turned out a man entered our compartment in the wee hours but one of our Italian friends woke up, sat up and asked him who he was. He apologized for being in the wrong car. Had we left the door unlocked? All eyes turned to my daughter who’d gotten up at one point to use the bathroom. She thought for a minute and yes, she was certain she’d locked the door when she returned. We looked closer and it was easy to picture a simple tool that would lift the latch from the outside. We were glad to have compartment mates who were light sleepers. I hadn’t woken up and my purse w/ cards, camera and passport was at, but not under, my feet and I was sound asleep.

We arrived in Venice around 10:00 and it was another sunny day! So far it had rained just once, the day we spent 4 hours (yes it’s true!) in the lingerie department at Galleries Lafayette.

We quickly got our bearings and jumped onto the waterbus. We had directions from our hotel (take the Rialto stop and go left – LOL!) but sheesh! So we got off and walked left, up and down over bridges. I was carrying my laptop and dragging my carryon bag and it had been a long night.

We stopped and DD asked vendors. Much discussion among the vendors ensued but there was no idea and no agreement as to the general direction of our hotel. The direction felt wrong to us so back to the Rialto stop to try again. This time we went forward and stopped at a square. DD had me wait with the luggage pile (including the giant basket from Kenya in the bright green Printemps bag, our constant companion.) She stepped into a nearby bookstore and had a long conversation inside. The shopkeeper pulled out a map and marked the hotel, our location, and our route. We were just around the corner from the hotel and a short walk took us right there.

DD will want you to know that at this point there was an unprecedented occurrence: she took over the map and navigation tasks. At no time in our family travels has this happened. We have a family of 4. We can’t sing a note but we all have pitch-perfect directional skills. On one car trip through Mexico I found our way out of Mexico City w/ a map and a compass and no wrong turns! And I’m an organizer so normally, the map is mine. DD took over in Italy. It was a little disturbing to join the world of travelers who really aren’t certain where they are ;)

Our hotel was the Albergo Corte Grimani for 2 nights, at 100 eu per night. This was a fantastic hotel, tops on Trip Advisor. We dropped our bags, looked around our room/apartment, and headed out. We went to a nearby bar for coffee & rolls, it was still morning, and the papers were full of photos of Clinton and Obama! Today was Wednesday, the morning after Super Tuesday. Everyone in the bar was talking about the election and since DD and I are avid followers of the political scene and LOVE to talk about elections, I told a gentleman nearby that we were American. We had a fun conversation about Obama & Clinton. He asked if I thought America would really elect a black man. Hmmm, tough question to answer in February 2008. ;)

We walked to San Marco square then found another bar for more coffee. One was not enough after the brief sleep & crazy night on the train. We watched in amazement as the bartender made a beautiful cocktail. It was a spritzer! Lovely! We ordered them later that day, along with Bellinis. We walked around and around, visiting the beautiful churches. Venice had few tourists that day and we were nearly alone viewing the amazing mosaics in the church. We eventually stopped back at the first bar for sandwiches and salads. We might have eaten elsewhere but DD spotted handsome men in striking uniforms (I think they were Italian firefighters, wow!!!) at the counter so we stopped too. It was good and inexpensive.

We shopped here and there and late that afternoon we watched the sun set from Rialto Bridge. It was beautiful and we took lots of photos. We had dinner at a place recommended by the hotel. It was only so-so but afterwards we walked through the narrow alleys and noticed how very quiet it was in Venice. I hadn’t realized until then that it is a place with no cars and that everything really does arrive via water, including police and ambulance services. And firefighters.

Day 12
Today was museum day! I love museums. We first went to our nearby bar for coffee and rolls. This was the one where we’d had the political conversation. The staff were friendly – hooray, we’d become regulars! Then we headed for the Guggenheim. It seemed to take hours to get everywhere in Venice but we didn’t mind getting lost at all. It was all beautiful. We took many, many photos.

We loved the Guggenheim. It’s high on my list of favorite museums. The collection is small and nearly perfect. The building itself is terrific – a home in Venice on the canal. The garden collection is more recent and a really stunning collection of outdoor art. Inside are incredible paintings and for most of our visit, we were nearly alone. Eventually a school group showed up but we had moved along in the rooms.

The small café looked less than promising and we had a recommendation for a nearby restaurant for lunch. It was very good. We watched an unhappy American tourist who complained about her pasta (seafood pasta, said it took too long but wow, it looked good)and a happy Venetian family having lunch together. Then we walked and walked to see the views and enjoy the sunshine.

We got caught up in the commuter crush of pedestrians heading to the Canareggio district, a more residential neighborhood than ours, and watched a large group of stylish mothers with strollers visiting together. What a place to be a young mother! We visited the Ca’ d’Oro, a small palace on the grand canal, and enjoyed the exhibits. We heard sirens and looked out at the canal to watch the police boat hurrying by. For some reason it struck us as wildly comical and we laughed and laughed. We were the last to leave the palace.

For dinner we went to a grocery store for bread, wine and lettuce. Visiting grocery stores while traveling is one of my top favorite activities and this was no exception. Fascinating! The wine section had so many regional things to try. We had some of our super cheese from Paris with salad & wine for dinner. It was super. (This only sounds right if you say Super w/ a French accent.) Our hotel room was really a small and lovely apartment, lots of room for dinner.

Thanks to all 3 of you...this is such a unique trip report because of all the perspectives..it truly makes the trip seem more real. Thank you for sharing!!

At the Guggenheim a very young and nervous looking woman approached us and asked if we'd like a tour of a few select paintings. She looked so anxious that we readily agreed. It was so sweet to have this young art student showing us her choice pieces. What an experience for her.

I love Mother/Daughter trip reports, especially when they include Paris. (I'm trying to talk my Mom into taking one of our own!)

Wonderful report and since I love Italy, I'm eager for more.

Day 13
Bologna

The next day we checked out and caught the water bus. We snapped our last photos of the beautiful buildings in Venice and watched in fascination as a group of 3 well-heeled middle aged tourists were fined for not having tickets. The fine was steep and despite their explanations they were required to pay.

We headed for the train station and we were off to Bologna! We had reservations at the Hotel Paradise for 3 nights.

Ah Bologna! Yum! We checked in, dropped our bags and asked the Hotel Manager where to eat. She sent us off to a restaurant for lunch just a block away. It was 1:30 but they eat late and it was full of university professors and students. Or at least that’s how it looked. We waited briefly in line, stared at each plate that came by, then were seated in one of several back rooms. It was one of those restaurants that seems to grow as you walk through. We had a wonderful lunch at La Montanara on Via August Righi – just a couple of menu options on the fixed price meal. Total w/ 2 courses each, wine & coperti was 36 eu.

We liked Hotel Paradise. It was a great location, just off the main street and near lots of good restaurants. That description might apply to each hotel in Bologna but this one was good, clean, convenient, w/ exceptional service.

After lunch I asked about changing our room as we had one on the top floor with no windows! Skylights but I like to see the street. Turned out they’d just filled up but they could transfer us across the street to an apartment. So we went and looked at the apartment and it was fine, but it was February and it needed airing. We stayed where we were for 2 nights then switched to a larger room with windows on the street for the same price.

Now we need to take a moment to comment on Gelato/gelati. It’s wonderful in Italy,yes, and some may argue with us on this point but we believe that nowhere is gelato more wonderful than in Bologna. Our favorite was Tierra del Fuego on via Indipendenza at 1.90 eu for a giant cone of heaven. In Rome I can forget to seek out gelato for an entire day but in Bologna I'm preoccupied with the stuff. Snacks, dessert, all the time gelato.

This first day we do what we do everywhere: walk and walk and look at absolutely everything. I locate all the nearby perfume shops to see what's different about fragrance in Italy. An emphasis on the Italian companies in the display and stocking and we zip through for quick spritzes. We looked at the two towers, visit the Piazza and the large church, admiring the sculpture and making mental notes to return at the right time the next day for the phenomenal sun dial to work properly. There was a small tour group at the church when we were there but that's the only group we saw in our several days in Bologna. Of course, it was February!

We checked out the market streets and the university area carefully, admired the graffiti, watched a sweet dog wait eagerly for his owner outside a grocery store, then walked some more. Ate gelato. Read many posted menus. Dinner was amazing at Sapori & Gusto near our hotel – 31 eu including wine.

I take small issue with one thing. I remember the best gelato being at Patagonia (like the country). I remember this because the guy gave me a postcard with a photo of the shop on it and the mountains of wonderful gelato. Regardless, the stuff was amazing at every place we went.

BTW, the cocktail you enjoyed so much in San Marco square is called a Spritz, not spritzer. Venetians, and I, love them!

bookmarking!

Hazel - thanks! That's what a year does to my memory.

And you're right of course, the gelato place is called both Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego - I think it's their general theme. The receipts from there are TdF and the sign above the door, the more important information to share, says Patagonia.

Day 14
Saturday and today we wanted to hike to the top of the hill, up through the Porticos to the church at the top. We had breakfast at the hotel – a normal and good breakfast of cereal, yogurt, toast, etc. They had an espresso machine so we ordered 2 cappuccino each. We spotted the copy of the John Grisham novel ‘The Broker’ in the bookshelf, saw the inscription from Grisham and spirited it away to our room to read later. Turned out he stayed at Hotel Paradise while writing the book and he listed his restaurant recommendations! He also climbed to the church through the porticos.

We then headed off to climb through the Porticos.

It was still early and the streets were quiet as we walked through Bologna. We stopped for coffee and to use the bathroom at the last restaurant before the hill climb. The porticos of Bologna climbs for miles up the hillside to a small chapel at the top. From there you have amazing views of the valleys and hills beyond in one direction and of Bologna in the other. We passed a few people on the way up but it wasn’t busy on Saturday morning. Occasionally a jogger would fly by us. At the top there was a mass in progress but we didn’t stay. We rested briefly, then turned around and headed down. The way down was surprisingly quick! It was cold but sunny. A beautiful day.

Once we got to the middle of town we were tired and made a beeline for a restaurant we’d seen the day before, Clavature on via Clavature. It had pumpkin tortelli in balsamic vinegar sauce (wow!) and I’d been thinking about that that the entire walk. We arrived at 12:30, worried about a full restaurant, but we were the only ones there. There’s nothing like walking into an empty restaurant to verify that yes, you managed to find the one dud in Bologna! We were worried but no need, within 10 minutes the place was full, we’d ordered and one of the best meals I’ve ever had was on its way to my table.

The pumpkin tortelli in a balsamic reduction sauce was to die for. It was absolutely perfect. I continued to think about it.

It was hard to top our morning but we tried! From there we went to the museum. Bologna is the home of one of the best, but little-known, painters of the 20th century (IMHO of course) – Morandi. Attached to the Bologna museum is a permanent museum of Morandi. They have his studio reproduced and a large collection of his paintings. Lovely! All housed in a fantastic and huge civic building on the Piazza. DD then napped on a bench in the vast hall while I went on to see the other (mediocre) exhibits in the museum. We admired the views from the windows and then headed out to join in the pedestrian chaos of Bologna. The Piazza was full of people! We people watched there then walked and walked. Ate gelato and walked some more.

Dinner was at Trattoria dal Biassanot on via Piella, another recommendation from our hotel manager and it was good but not fabulous. This was her favorite place and she'd tried to secure a reservation for us the night before but it was full. We had salads (mista for DD, artichoke for me) and pasta (lasagna verde for me, tortellini ragu for DD) and wine. With coperto it was 34.70. The canals in Bologna were interesting, although hard to see, and this restaurant was just across the canal and around the corner from our Hotel.

What was really fun at Trattoria dal Biassanot was this huge, vast, multi-generation Italian family taking up half the restaurant. They must have been celebrating someone's birthday and it was so neat to watch dish after dish coming out with all of them loud and happy. There was one picky little kid who was clearly only eating spaghetti with butter and cheese, just like picky American kid.

Great report, bubbly et al.

Not too many posts to go and my own DM and I will be joining this crowd. It's always nice to be reminded of such nice times.

You walked up?! Good going!

Day 15
Ravenna!

On Sunday we caught the train to Ravenna. For us, with our challenges with trains, getting the right ticket and figuring out how to get on the right train is a thrill. We did it! We took the easy train ride to Ravenna and popped out ready to explore. And we were hungry. We found a restaurant, La Gardela on via Ponte Marino, that looked fantastic and there was a wait so we got on the list for the last seating for Sunday dinner. We had a little time so we walked a few blocks to see the outside of the Basilica and Mausoleum. I love this place and this is my 3rd visit. Each time it’s been similar – the grounds and streets around are quiet and peaceful with the sound of birds. It seems hushed and blessed. We walked by, then back to the restaurant.

Men/waiters in Italy can be flirtatious but this one – wow! I’m not sure anyone else got their food as he was making sure we felt like the Queen/Princess. We had an amazing meal with wine and dessert and grappa. While I can’t find the receipt I remember this as the least expensive meal we had in Italy. Pasta was around 3 eu. It was full of families enjoying their Sunday meal together. We were there about 2 hours.

We went to see the mosaics, which were in no way less stunning after a bottle of lambrusco and 2 grappas. Loved them. The photo I have on my iPhone for DD is her giving a thumbs up in front of the mosaics. It's a little blurry, probably from the grappa but still it captures the whole trip.

Late afternoon we were at the town square drinking hot chocolate and enjoying the parade of families on their Sunday afternoon walk. It was a circle and we saw people walk by at least twice each, running into friends and visiting. We made our way to the train station and Voila! Got on the right train and made our way to Bologna.

We had a very late dinner that night back at Clavature. I ordered the pumpkin tortelli in balsamic sauce again and since we were the only customers left at 10:30 on Sunday night, we got great service. I asked the owner how he made it and so we stood at the kitchen window while the chef went through the preparation for me. We then discussed balsamic vinegar as I'd been thinking of taking a bottle home and I asked how you know if it's the real deal? He said "you must only buy the balsamic if you know the family who makes it." Right. Easy for him to say.

He then gave me a bottle of the balsamic used in the sauce. (I've since seen it for sale in Seattle so it's available here - Cream of Balsamic Vinegar.) It was a wonderful day.

In my notebook I have the recipe for the Pumpkin Tortelli in balsamic.

Pasta:
You mix 1 small pumpkin, baked, with a little nutmeg and salt and pepper. You make the tortelli. And here I have diagrams as he had us practice folding the tortelli using napkins. It was hard.

Sauce:
Saute finely chopped yellow onion in olive oil and butter.
Set it aside
Saute chopped pancetta. Add a few tablespoons Cream of Balsamic. Set it aside
Cook the pasta
Add 2 tablespoons or so of cream to the pancetta/balsamic, add the onions, add pasta and toss.

TDudette - we are crazy walkers! One of the reasons I like traveling to Europe in the winter is all the walking you can do in the cities. I did get a little tired on this trek to the top but it was worth it.

Day 16
Monday we moved from Bologna to Florence via train. We’d rented an apartment in Florence for 5 days (Italy Perfect, Veronica apartment.) We weren’t wild about the apartment as it was cold, dark, damp and musty inside in February. The woman who checked us in to the apartment didn’t speak English and didn’t seem to know how the heater worked (gave us opposite directions so we froze, then when I gave up and turned the heater to ‘off’, we baked LOL!) We had to empty the dehumidifier a couple of times a day so it wouldn’t overflow. My guess is this apartment would be the best ever in July and August as it would stay cool and there’s a lovely patio with a table and chairs. But oh well! There was a great wine shop on the corner and we were across the street from a wonderful market. Oh – and inexpensive delicious gelato ON OUR BLOCK! Cool.

We arrived shortly before noon. I had the address for a must-visit food market and there it was, across the street! That was a nice surprise. We made it to the market just before they closed for the day. Got things for breakfasts and dinner - fantastic market! DD established a great relationship with the cheese and pasta vendor – very important of course – and we bought from him the rest of the week.

The first day we walked and walked and got our bearings. We visited the Duomo, the leather market (there were handbags to examine), tried ice cream, examined the goods in the kitchen shop and window shopped.

For dinner we cooked pasta in the apartment. We were oddly still traveling with our super fromage from Paris and we had that just one more time. It was still super!

We had wine from the fun place on the corner. This was one of those wine filling stations that I wish was in my neighborhood. You take your bottle, they have barrels of wine lined up, you make your choice and they fill your bottle. The elderly couple running this shop like sicilian wines, as do we!

Ok, so DM and I have a running joke about Italy in the winter: the older women dress up as badgers. They seem to dye their hair to match their knee-length fur coats and when shuffling along hunched over they look just like the animal. There is nothing we love more than sitting at a café watching the badgers shuffle by.

At the train station in Bologna on our way to Ravenna we saw our first boy-badger. He was a young man, wearing, I swear to high-heaven, FUR PANTS. He also had two animal bones hanging from his backpack.

Also, the hot chocolate in Ravenna was like nothing I’ve ever had. It was really thick and best eaten with a spoon. It was almost like the molten part of a molten chocolate cake, inside a cup. So good.

Day 17
Museums! We started at the Bargello for great sculpture. They were restoring Donatello’s David and it was fascinating to see inside and watch as they repaired the cast bronze. We enjoyed the sculptures a great deal.

From there we went to the Uffizi. We waited in line briefly and once inside, it wasn’t crowded. Room after room of wonders. If you love painting, this is the place. I found several pieces to be especially moving. We had a late lunch at the café and while the food wasn’t what I’ve come to expect from museum cafes, the views from there over Florence were beautiful.

We wandered to the Ponte Vecchio, then along the river and back across to our apartment. Rowers were out, the water level looked low. We stopped by the wine shop, discussed the relative merits of the different regions using shrugs and hand signs, chose the Sicilian red, and they filled 2 bottles for us. Really do need this just down my street at home.

We did lots of email back at the apartment– I had a grant application to review for work and DD was looking for a job and a place to live back home. We took turns on my laptop during our quiet evenings in Florence.

Day 18
We were quickly not so wild about Florence. Even in February, the slow season, there were large groups of tourists everywhere we went. Part of the problem was our cold, damp apartment (should have gone for a small hotel) and part was our experience in the city. We love to walk and walking here wasn’t its usual pleasure: the sidewalks were narrow and bumpy and were overhung with window boxes to duck. Traffic flew by at high speeds on every street. When I look back I certainly enjoyed the city, liked our neighborhood and really loved the walk we took to the Uffizi area – we went there often and grew to know it well. But relative to other cities which we love completely, it just didn’t capture our hearts in quite the same way.

So we decided we’d take the bus to Sienna for the day.

If you have motion sickness, this might not be the bus for you. DD had troubles and asked me to talk to her the entire ride. I’m certain I sounded like a crazy person trying to keep her distracted, hoping she wouldn’t need our torn plastic bag. Thank goodness we finally arrived in Sienna. We went to the nearby church and saw the head of St. Catherine (literally the head is displayed, I love this about Italy.) Then to the nearby lively Wednesday market in the park where we bought scarves and DD bought crazy patterned pink tights. Fun!

Then starving, we headed back to the Cathedral and looked for a nearby restaurant. We had no map, but I had a recommendation for a restaurant (Osteria la Chiacchiera on Costa S. Antonio – 23 eu for 2 incl wine) and we stumbled upon it. To my great surprise the street magically appeared next to the Cathedral. We entered, and we were seated side by side on upturned logs at a big round table at this empty restaurant. The waitress wouldn’t let us sit across from each other which seemed a little odd. Then right away a visibly American couple (daypack, Rick Steeves guidebook in hand) entered and they were seated across from us. They looked somewhat dismayed being seated with strangers since the restaurant was otherwise empty. Since wine was 4 eu a liter (practically free!) I asked if they’d like to share a liter with us. I don't remember now what I ordered but I know it was delicious.

Our lunch friends, soon to be our new best friends, invited us to go with them to a nearby wine bar at the wall. We toured the cellar and then each had a glass of wine. Per glass it was expensive. Well, compared to a 4 eu liter anyway. So one of our BFFs looked in the Rick Steeves guidebook and in it were directions to a bar overlooking the main square. So we went there and shared Prosecco. Then Chianti. We sat on a bench on an iron balcony attached high on the side of the building. This was a fantastic place to view the world of Sienna.

The husband and I both love to plan and both of us had guidebooks - he had several. We carefully consulted them (as carefully as possible given the amount of wine we’d had!) and chose a trattoria not far away for dinner. Off we went and had an incredible meal.

By this time it was dark and what began as a simple lunch in Sienna had progressed in complete fun to dinner in Sienna. As the day wore on it slipped my mind that we had a bus to Florence to catch… When we said good night it was 9:30 p.m. and much fun had been had in Sienna. We went to our bus station and yes, we had missed the last bus to Florence. There was no train, no bus and we had no hotel.

DD dashed to the big hotel across the street from the bus station but it was expensive (200 eu) and rude so we weren’t going to stay there. We walked around the center of the city for awhile but no luck. It felt deserted and we saw no hotels. Eventually we saw a man parking his car and he gave us some suggestions, but nothing worked out. By now it was 11. So we walked to an area on the outskirts of town, along the road just past the bus station, and eventually found a lovely room in a small and elegant hotel (Hotel Villa Elda) for about 75 eu. It's normally much higher but they took pity on us. The breakfast was fantastic.

mebe - I hope you persuade your mother. It really is such fun!

kybourbon - I think our compartment was a 2nd class sleeper. It slept from 4 to 6. Although I can't imagine 6 in there. Last year we went with all four of our family and reserved the first class sleeper. But since there were 4, and the 1st class holds 3, we simply had our own 2nd class sleeper.

LowCountryI - I'm reading your report as well. Such fun!

All - sorry this has been so slow! I'm working on the next few days.

Oh wow! There's a convent/hotel down the hill from where you catch the bus by San Domenico. A triple in low season is 75€ in case you get stuck again.

I've always seen the six compartment called a couchette.

Enjoying this very much! Back to Bologne-DH and I walked down the portico'ed hill and stopped at a camera/electronics shop near the bottom. With our respective fractured Italian and English, we weren't certain if clerk said the penitent or the drunk go up that hill on their hands and knees during holy week!

Sorry you missed the bus.

Day 19
Back to Florence! This was a quiet day. We people watched in the sunny square, shopped and DD bought a handsome briefcase. She’d been using my laptop to communicate with people back home and by now she had a new job lined up. Of course she needed a smart new briefcase to go with it!

She’d seen one she liked at the leather market and went back to bargain. She’d become an expert in haggling in Kenya – it’s how you shop – and she was ready and eager for some serious business at the leather market. Since she'd been in Europe, shopping had lost its adventure. There was no thrill to buying supplies at the Monoprix, at least compared to the intensity of negotiation in the markets in Kenya.

She picked up the briefcase, looking slightly disinterested. "Do you like the case?" "Pffff - it's all right." The salesman tossed out a price. She shook her head no, too much. She didn’t have the money. Tears came to her big brown eyes as she told him she’d been a volunteer in Kenya and was just evacuated because of the violence there. No money, no credit cards, and only a temporary passport. But yet she would be content to take this briefcase and the 2 leather fish-shaped key chains off his hands. For a steal. The poor guy didn’t stand a chance. It really is a lovely case.

kybourbon - yes - couchette! And I hope I never need an emergency hotel room in Sienna again :)

TDudette - perhaps the drunk AND the penitent? We also hiked up to the top of Croagh Patrick in Ireland a few years ago. That was a true trial. The trail goes straight up the hill, no switchbacks, and as you near top it's a scree slope. There was one religious pilgrim heading up barefoot. DD chatted him up and it turned out he was from Seattle. We thought it was too funny for words - of course he was American! We Americans really take things a bit far sometimes.

And back to Bologna is the right introduction for the next day...

Day 20
Modena! And Bologna!

We missed Bologna and decided to spend another day there, since we’d mastered the train system and weren’t in love with Florence.

We’d looked into visiting a balsamic house when we were in Bologna but couldn't get a reservation lined up. So I tried again from Florence. I looked around online and emailed one of the balsamic houses that said they spoke English. They emailed right back and we were able to arrange reservations at 10:30 for the Balsamic House tour at Acetaia di Giorgio. I had also heard about a good spot for lunch, emailed them, we were in luck and secured reservations for lunch at 1 at Hosteria Giusti.

We were up early through the streets of Florence to the train station. Our apartment wasn't close to the station but DD had figured out a relatively straight route and I think it took us just 20 minutes to get there. Once we got to Modena we followed directions and took a bus to the outskirts of town to an industrial area. We walked and walked down the forlorn and weedy road surrounded by warehouses and small factories. Eventually we came upon the old house, small sign, car in the driveway and we were there! This is NOT a romantic looking place from the outside, but inside it is heaven.

The Balsamic tour at Acetaia di Giorgio in Modena (http://www.acetaiadigiorgio.it) was a highlight of our trip. Carlotta, the owner, was our tour guide and we loved hearing the family’s story and seeing their casks of vinegar and learning about the process. They live in the house and the balsamic ages in their attic. It warms and cools according to the seasons and climate and its taste truly reflects the home and the climate over the 25 or more years it ages. We met their daughter, home from University for lunch, and saw her dowry cask. This is a cask the family sets aside at her birth. When she is old enough to marry, her dowry cask is ready to be the ‘mother’ cask for a new Balsamic house.

The local Chamber of Commerce judges the blind entries from the houses and those deemed wonderful enough are granted permission to bottle their vinegar in the special shaped bottle. If balsamic is not in that bottle, it's not the real thing. She assured us that you don't want the real thing for your salads, that one of the many inferior products that claims to be from Modena are fine for many uses, but they really aren't true balsamic. In other words, the balsamic I buy at Costco or at the local food coop that says it's from Modena - nope.

At the end of the tour we tasted a number of their vinegars – different ages and different woods. The one in cherry was sweet, the one in juniper tasted of juniper and the 25 year old vinegar in oak was just right. I purchased a bottle (about $100 or around 60 eu with last year's bad exchange rate and worth it.)

Walking down the stairs to leave we could smell the lunch being prepared by Carlotta’s mother-in-law. It was truly a family enterprise. As DD put it on the way out: “the vinegar absorbs all the Christmases and the love and life of the family as it ages. All of that goes into the vinegar.”

So the words of the restaurant owner in Bologna - that I must only buy balsamic when I know the family, suddenly worked for me. When the balsamic from Modena runs out (it is SO amazing) I can go online and buy another from bottle from Carlotta. Much of their business is repeat business from customers all over the world. DD and I signed up for Carlotta's newsletters. I think I've gotten 2 emailed newsletters this past year and it's really the most wonderful interruption of my day to get balsamic news from Modena.

From there we walked into town, we’d gotten directions from Carlotta, and made our way to Giusti. This had been highly recommended to me by a terrific caterer in my home town. Lunch there is an occasion and reservations must be made in advance. Usually very far in advance. The restaurant is below a shop. We checked in at the counter and when it was time, we were led past the counter, through a low tunnel and down to the cellar. There were 3 other tables that day. We had starters and many courses, wine, and finally caffe. DD took detailed notes in my little book. We both had bocconcini di gnocco fritto e salumi, I had tortellini in brodo di cappone to start then cotechino fritto con lo zabaione al lambrusco, DD had tagliatelle al sugo di guanciale then stinco di vitello roresciato all’albana. We drank lambrusco. Her main course of vitello was to die for. My cotechino is what Giusti is known for, but to me it was just OK. It was 104 eu. 3+ times our normal meal expense but all was delicious and we were completely happy to be there.

After lunch we made our way back to the train station, past shop after shop full of African cloth. The people looked Kenyan, the cloth looked just like the cloth DD had sent home for gifts.

It was about 3:00 and still early enough to catch the train back to Bologna so we did! We visited one of the churches that we had wanted to see but hadn't – Basilica di Santo Stefano. This is 4 old (11th c) churches linked together w/ crypts and chapels and gardens. It was a magical place. Priests were slipping in and out, mass was being said in the most sacred of the chapels. The square and porticos around the church had the most remarkable light.

We were too full still to even think about pumpkin tortelli in balsamic sauce at our favorite restaurant but not too full to have gelato. Twice.

This was Friday evening and on our way back through Bologna to the train station we noticed buffets set out in all the bars. We looked more closely and it was a free buffet with drink purchase in nearly every bar. Woo hoo! Friday happy hour! It looked fantastic. If I were in Bologna on a Friday night this is where I’d eat. Places were full of friendly locals enjoying the end of the work week. I'm pretty sure I'll need to return to take advantage of this fun weekly event.

Now here’s where we got into train trouble. Back at the Bologna train station we bought tickets to Florence but then were impatient and got off the train one stop too soon. Or we got on the wrong train that didn’t stop at the main station. Who knows? Anyway it was the last train coming by that station. It was closing. There were no cabs. It was an industrial/office complex area and it was late. We were the only people to be seen. We examined the map, walked a mile to the nearest deserted bus stop and caught that night’s last bus back to the city center. As usual when we set foot on a train, we were completely relieved to make it back.

Day 21
Assisi!

We planned to take an 11 a.m. train to Assisi and spend the night there. We were torn between a day trip to Assisi w/ one more night in Rome or the overnight in Assisi but DD wanted to spend the night. Great decision! We checked out of our apartment & caught a cab to the train station. We had an hour before the train left so DD went in search of lunch and I asked her to see if she could get the barrel shaped handbag I’d admired from her vendor. Since he'd been badgered into a low price once... He laughed when he saw her coming needing a bag for her ‘poor Mother… ” She came back with the handbag and delicious salami sandwiches. I’d fended off the beggars from our bags, the well-traveled giant Kenyan rice sorting basket in the bright green Printemps bag was with us and safe, so all was well and we boarded our train.

It was a beautiful train ride. The weather had been sunny so far and this day was no exception. We arrived in Assisi and were second in line for a cab. The cab to our hotel, San Rufino, was 25 euro (yikes!) and when we arrived we discovered the couple ahead of us in line, at our hotel checking in. Doh! We should have spoken up and shared. We also discovered the practically free bus that went from the train station to a couple of blocks from our hotel. Oh well. What’s 25 euros? (It was about $40!!!)

We checked in to our hotel, San Rufino on Via Porta Perlici (it was about 55 eu plus an inexpensive & good breakfast), dropped our bags and hurried off to soak up every second in Assisi. We had coffee and cake sitting in the pale sun in the square, then refreshed, we were off to the Basillica of St. Francis! I love the Basillica, love Giotto. This visit I especially enjoyed seeing Assisi’s few belongings on display on the lower floor. We chatted with the nuns looking at the display then joined our fellow American Catholics in the gift shop where I bought a key chain. Not my usual souvenir but I use it and love it.

From there we wandered the quiet, narrow streets trying to stay out of the wind, then followed a path up the hill to the fort, admiring all the views along the way. It was February, Assisi is high on a hill, and as the sun set it got very, very, very cold. The wind was howling. We walked back down into the town, walking the narrow winding streets until we couldn’t take the cold wind whipping around the corners another second and headed for a nearby café. It was next to our hotel so DD fetched the laptop and we visited with an American family at the café, drank warm red wine, and relaxed. I don't know when I've been so glad to be warm and safe. Being in Assisi in the winter winds felt like we were perched on the edge of the world - remote and cold. It was completely delightful to be in the cafe. Relaxation has its price though and our bill for 2 wines and internet was 20 eu! Oh well, we were warm and happy and it was bitter cold outside.

The family told us about a nearby pizza place, Il Duomo, and so DD and I went there for dinner. We had pasta. It was good but the truffle pizza that passed us midway through looked amazing. Since we were 2 women dining together we didn’t have a waitress, we had the owner waiting on our table. He was very friendly, as only Italian men can be. Love them. After our pasta, salads and a bottle of wine, we called the owner over and asked for pizza too! He laughed. That truffle pizza was an experience! Total was 28.90 eu.

As an aside I was in Assisi in May, 2001. Since then the small, compact town has been repaved and is beautiful, quiet and easy to navigate. The streets are very narrow and we rarely saw a vehicle. Many of the stone buildings we passed were convents or private homes. It had a peaceful feel.

What enchanted me the most about Assisi was the sound of the birds. You could hear them everywhere, and after the noise and crowds of Florence, it gave the city a magical feel.

Day 22
Assisi to Rome!

We had a little time in the morning before our train to Rome and we still had not been to St. Clara’s smaller basilica near our hotel so off we went. This was lovely and we were glad to have visited, to learn more about her and see her remains displayed (got to love the Italians for the displays of the dead.) When we walked outside we noticed the fountain. We believed it was cold, we felt it was cold, but seeing the fountain frozen solid was vivid proof!

There was a a group of police officers doing a training or something in the little square so we watched as long as we could, about 2 minutes, and then set off walking. We wandered the streets a bit and stopped in at one of several shops and bought sandwiches for the train. Mine was artichokes and hard boiled eggs and was to die for - almost as good as our truffle pizza.

Back to the hotel for bags and to check out. Someone was checking out just in front of us and by the time it was our turn I began to worry that we were running a little late. The bus stop was a few blocks away and we didn't want to miss it. The last thing I wanted to do was spend another 25 eu for a cab! So feeling late, worried about missing the cheap bus we ran, pell mell, dragging my wheeled suitcase and the giant Kenyan basket the 2+ blocks to the bus stop. DD ran on ahead to make sure the bus didn’t leave and I came lumbering behind, panting and sweaty. To the bus driver’s complete amusement since of course, there was still another 10 minutes before he left.

We were at the train station in plenty of time to have coffee, people watch in the station cafe, and catch the train to Rome. It was a beautiful ride. We admired the hill towns of Umbria, made a mess of ourselves with sandwich crumbs everywhere, and before we knew it, we were in Rome. It really sneaks up on you.

Rome! We had been there for Christmas just the year before and were so happy to be back, even for just 2 nights. We had a room not far from the train station at Hotel Gea on Via Nazionale. It was one floor on a fascinatingly massive building. You ring the bell and someone comes to lead you in. There's a huge interior courtyard and you find your way to an elevator along the side of one wing. After that we came and went through a side door that led more directly to the hotel. We liked the place. It had good service, great breakfast, our room was vast, the bathroom was large and beautiful w/ cobalt blue tiles and not a bad location. I think it was about 95 eu a night. We checked in, dropped our bags and headed out fast. San Crispino’s for gelato was our first stop, we watched the crowd at the Trevi Fountain, then wandered on through the city.

We stopped for wine and a snack at a lovely wine bar, Enoteca Cul de Sac. We had the cheese plate and it was delicious. The place was starting to fill up and we had a great time chatting and watching the workers and their friends.

We had dinner plans for Rome! At some point along the way DD had posted a ‘have dinner with us in Rome please’ request on Fodors and Therese (of the What to Wear and Pack part 1 – 8 fodors thread fame!) replied. We made arrangements to meet Therese and her mother at the ominous hooded statue at the Campo di Fiori at 7:30 p.m. We were very excited to have dinner with our imaginary friend.

We arrived at the statue, it was a cold evening and we were bundled up in our obligatory black coats. A minute or two later we saw Therese and her mother. After quick introductions, we went to a nearby bar and sat outside. 3 of us had cocktails, one of us had tea, and it was time to head off for dinner. Therese had made reservations at a terrific place nearby. Based on a torn receipt I found I believe we ate at La Tana dei Satiri on Via di Grottapinta, near Campo di Fiori. It was fun and delicious. In addition to being the pack light maven, Therese speaks fluent Italian. That made it even more delightful and way easier to order good food. We talked and talked and talked some more over dinner and dessert. We had a great time and hated to see the evening come to a close. We said ciao ciao near Therese's apartment and and headed to our hotel.

On our way back to the hotel, DD and I wished that we’d thought to make plans for Monday night too.

I'll clarify here and point out that Therese had made reservations at a place that was supposed to be terrific (and apparently under previous owners actually merited that description) but wasn't altogether. So I'm glad to hear that you don't have a terrible memory of it but wouldn't go so far as to recommend it. As a friend of mine who is a dining critic points out "Sometimes dinner isn't about the food." The family that ran the restaurant was very pleasant, and the company of course was terrific.

Also...

The hooded figure on Campo dei Fiori is Giordano Bruno, a famous heretic (who isn't anymore, really, as what he wrote about is now widely accepted) who was burned there. I particularly enjoyed scandalizing my mother (who scandalizes easily) with this information, and the fact that atheists held a rally of some sort at the statue while we were there.

The cocktails that we drank (except for my mother) before dinner were spritz, the same ones you mention upthread. I could go for a spritz at this very moment.

Therese - the beauty of time. All the food is wonderful in my memory at this point, since I'm wishing to be there. But yes, it was probably the delightful company that gave it a rosy glow.

I have a vague memory of something interesting about the desserts but can't quite recall. Bubblywine (who now lives on the east coast) will probably chime in shortly with details.

The Spritz sounded so good that I had to look it up. Never had one in Italy, but I will corect that next time.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spritz_(alcoholic_beverage)

:-)

Day 23

In the morning we wandered more – the Spanish Steps, completely empty this time of year, and the Piazza Popolo and watched highly entertaining people.

At the Piazza we sat in the sun on the steps of the center statue to rest. A man came and sat down right next to DD, pulled his turtleneck over his head and sat there yelling to himself. We couldn’t help but be completely amused by that. Then we watched a group of 3 young men ride around and around on one of the little bike/car things they'd clearly taken from the Borghese gardens up above the Piazza. This was one of the little rental bikes that aren’t supposed to leave the gardens. They went around and around where we sat, then took off down one of the streets as fast as they could in the opposite direction from the gardens. Escaped! The police officer blew his whistle at them which made them ride faster. We watched until they were out of sight.

After a while we got up as we had a food store on via Cola di Rienzo we were headed for, seeking truffles and big chunks of parmesan to take home. Eventually we found it. I bought salt from Bologna and Peperoncino Fino (a wonderful crushed red pepper that sadly is almost gone.) We bought big chunks of parmesan that they shrink wrapped and small jars of black truffles. It was a delightful store! We headed back towards our hotel with our heavy bags, stopping for lunch and wine along the way.

Late afternoon we headed for the Forum and visited a nearby museum. The Capitoline was closed that day, sadly, as I wanted to see the Wounded Gaul. We walked through the Roman forum and then hoped to find an internet café at the neighborhood between the Forum and the Coliseum. I wanted to check on our flights and check email. Our hotel had no internet access. I don’t remember now why that was, it seems odd. But we found no internet café anywhere. So we kept on walking.

Eventually we reached Trattoria Pizzeria Luz just past the Coliseum. It was very early – 6:30 – but it was open for dinner and almost full! We were seated at a table for two and soon it became clear to us that the restaurant was full of English speakers from all over the world. We started asking – to our right was an elderly English couple on their first trip to Europe. To our left, a young woman from Ireland dining with someone from Australia. Nearby were Canadians. All I can say is thank goodness we showed up to make the circle complete! Clearly they needed a couple of Americans. Dinner for 2 with apps, pasta, salad, dessert & wine was $33 – dollars not euros, this place is cheap. So cheap it’s in a guidebook – I think it’s Lonely Planet or the Rough Guide, which is how everybody but us found the place!

We walked back to the hotel. It was cold but a lovely night and we enjoyed seeing the sights along the way. That was it, our two short days in Rome were over.

nukesafe and Therese - I propose that in honor of Italy, we all have a Spritz today! The ones we had in Venice were made with a slice of blood orange.

I looked for the liquer I saw them use in the liquor store where I live last year and they don't have it. I'll have to buy some next time I'm in Italy.

Day 24
Rome to Paris

The night before we'd talked with the hotel manager about when to leave for the airport as he was calling us a cab. He thought there might be traffic and so wanted us to leave early. It was early indeed when the cab came and we headed to the airport. No traffic so we had had plenty of time to drink cappuccinos and read our books while we waited for our plane. We took an Easy Jet flight to Paris and watched the continent unfold below. It was sunny and clear and I tried hard to identify all the mountain ranges and bodies of water. Before we knew it were in Paris and on the train to the city and our hotel. We collected our stored bag at the desk, dropped everything in our room and headed out.

We made a beeline to one of our favorite bakeries near St. Eustache and ate our lunch in the park while watching the men play boules. In the 2 weeks since we’d been in Paris it felt like Spring had arrived and we went to the crowded outdoor cafes near St. Eustache, ordered wine and watched the people enjoy the weather. It was simply lovely. Black coats and sunglasses were required and we were fully in compliance.

We shopped along the Rue de Rivoli, watched the kids ice skating at the Hotel de Ville after school and headed back to the hotel. There was a full moon over Paris that night and it was beautiful. We made one last trip out, dinner at Le Hangar – I swear we only went three times (that we’re telling you about) and then a quick dash to Sephora’s on the Champs Elysee (open til 11!) We also made arrangements with the boulangerie next to our hotel for an order of a dozen pain au chocolate for the morning; this would be packed onto the plane and delivered to a very happy teenage DS back home.

As we were packing we laid out all the things we’d purchased and they covered the entire bed! We took pictures and swore they would never be seen by DH. As a testament to the death-marches, as DD was taking off her boots on the last night the sole of the boot came right off! She chuckled, looking at the mountains of accumulated purchases and said “well, one less thing to pack.”

Day 25
Paris to Seattle
In the morning we had a quick breakfast at our hotel, regretted ordering it, although the café au lait was good. We stopped in at the bakery next door to collect our pain au chocolat. The baker had gotten the note and he had a box of 12 warm pastries ready to go! He thought it was unusual but fun that his pastries were traveling to Seattle and made sure his box was sturdy enough. I had purchased several large vinyl grocery bags earlier and the box fit right inside. This then became my carryon, along with my laptop bag, and I checked my suitcase.

We had planned to take the subway/train to the airport but at the top of the stairs to the metro realized it just wasn’t going to happen. I looked at those stairs and just felt exhausted. By then we were reunited with ALL our purchases and well, it was all a little heavy and awkward. All the crazy large things from Kenya including the huge basket we’d dragged all over Italy, tablecloths, boots, grocery bags and odd kitchen things from Paris, cheese, truffles and handbags from Italy. And of course we’d just added a large box of pain au chocolate.

It was still dark and it was starting to rain - only the second rainy day of our entire trip. We dashed into the café on the corner and DD asked the bartender to call a cab for us. Everyone in the café said good morning and wanted to know where we were headed and where we’d been – so friendly! Paris always surprises me in this way as this would NEVER happen where we live. It’s only when I travel that I realize how reserved we are in the Pacific Northwest.

We had a quick cup of coffee and the cab pulled up. The woman working the bar made one of the men help us with our bags (that was a funny moment) and we piled in. The cab driver was wonderful, talked about Obama and Clinton and made me tell him about our trip in French (he insisted I practice!) DD was on a different flight so we dropped her off, then me.

When I checked in at Air France I couldn’t find my passport! That was not a happy moment. I was the only customer there so I dropped to my knees and started digging through my suitcase and bag. I popped back up and, nearing hysteria with tears in my eyes, asked the man at the counter “what do we do if I don’t find my passport?” (I’m usually VERY calm.) He was an older gentleman. He smiled and said take your time, look again very carefully, there’s no hurry Madame, I don’t mind. So I stopped, breathed, remembered signing in to the hotel in Paris and dropping it into the side compartment of my suitcase. Voila! There it was! I vowed NEVER to do that again. We talked about how great it is that Air France is non-stop to Seattle, discussed the trip he was thinking about to the Canadian Rockies and Vancouver, I told him a place or two to go and all was well.

I dropped off my detaxe forms from my wild spending spree that one day at Printemps and got on the plane. Uneventful flight, non-stop to Seattle, missing Paris the entire flight.

In Seattle I collected my suitcase and lined up for customs. I was a little worried about all the food items I’d packed. Fortunately DF (our friend who’d traveled to Paris with us) had handed me a present from her husband when we’d first arrived in Paris. He works in Border Patrol and it was a guidebook on what you can bring back when you travel abroad! When the customs official approached me with questions about any food items I may have packed I laughed, didn't break stride, and told him my friend is a border patrol agent and I had the entire booklet with me. OK, I sort of name dropped. He laughed too, said I guess you know the rules, and walked to the next traveler. I made it through with all the cheese, truffles and pastries. These really are fine to bring in, but sometimes they still don’t let them go through.

I arrived home shortly before DS got home from school and there on the counter was a dozen Pain au Chocolate, all for him. Oh happy day!

DD still had hours of travel to go because she wasn’t on the lovely non-stop Air France flight, but on an odd assortment of flights I’d cobbled together quickly to get her home from Kenya. She went to Ireland and Canada and eventually to Seattle.