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3 weesk: UK & Ireland, Car?

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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 02:43 PM
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3 weesk: UK & Ireland, Car?

Hello, fellow travelers! I need a little input on my upcoming trip. My parents and I (I'm 30, they're late 50s) are planning to visit England, Scotland, and Ireland in May. Three weeks is our max, but we're flexible. We'd fly into London, and out through Dublin. We have been to London before (10 years ago), but were rushed through the Tower on a tour, St. Paul's was covered in scaffolding, and we would enjoy seeing one of our fave cities again. On that previous trip, we spent four days in York, which we loved, and about a week in London (day-tripping to Windsor). I can't imagine not going back on the London Eye, to the National Gallery, or seeing some shows in the West End. I guesstimated 4 days in London, 7 days around England, 5 in Scotland, 3-4 in Ireland.

My biggest challenge right now is regarding transportation: I'm debating on whether or not we should rent a car. Any thoughts? Last summer, we spent four weeks in France and Italy, moving place to place via train (itinerary: Paris, Nice/French Riviera, Milan, Venice, Florence, Sorrento, Rome). We took day trips from each city, when needed. It was a fantastic trip and I planned the entire vacation without any snags. This UK trip, though, is really giving me anxiety!

I feel like some of the charm of seeing England and Scotland would be driving around. Is this true, or is it just my English Literature degree talking? My parents are leery of renting a car and all the potential disasters and hassles that could come from it. I, on the other hand, am optimistic about it, and would likely be the one actually driving. Is the paperwork that challenging? Should I stress about insurance, taxes, hidden fees, etc.? Also, what about finding gas stations and the actual drivability, meaning is it easy to get around? We'd rent the car when leaving London (probably for Bath but open to suggestions), and return before taking the ferry to Ireland (Dublin, I'm guessing, but I don't know where we'll end our Scotland leg). I've heard keeping a car in Ireland, after initially renting in the UK, can be a pain with many hidden costs. Is this true? If so, we can grab another car in Dublin, or forego a car while in Ireland entirely.

Bath, Stratford, either Cambridge or Oxford (I need to do more research because I've always said I wanted to see Oxford, but I think it's actually Cambridge that's the bigger attraction, right?), and the HP Studio Tours are on the list for England. All of these are doable through day trips from London, though. If we rented a car, I'd love to see the Cotswolds and the Lake District, and am up for any other recommendations. Again, my love of Wordsworth, Beatrix Potter, and the Bronte sisters is probably showing. Haha. We'd probably throw in a few Harry Potter sites, too, but that might be for another thread.

As far as Scotland goes, I know we'd want to see the sites in Edinburgh. Also, Balmoral, Brittanica, and Stirling Castle, are at the top. Also, Inverness and Culloden. I have read the Outlander series, so seeing some Scottish history would be really wonderful. Any recommendations for Scotland? Could day trips from Edinburgh (train traveling only) give us enough to go with for a first-timer's visit?

Ireland: Basics like Dublin, Waterford factory, Blarney Stone, etc. I haven't researched this leg too much as England itself is overwhelming me, at this point.

Wales: I'm probably pushing it time-wise, but since Wales is right there, we'd love to explore that country, too.

I really don't want to hop around so much that we can't soak in the area and experience each place. I know this isn't (hopefully) the last time I'll ever be in these cities, but we like to get in as much as possible.

My family and I are in the antiques business so we love anything tied to history. We love museums, traditional tourist highlights, castles, etc. We also love experiencing the culture through food and chatting with locals. We love getting off the beaten path. We are really not looking to do any hiking or camping.

Thank you so much for any advice, tips, and tricks. I greatly appreciate it. I apologize if this post is a bit all over the place. I'm in the early planning stages, so am still a bit disorganized. I really need to decide if renting a car is the way to go because it will eliminate so many variables. Again, thanks for anything you can give!
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 03:32 PM
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I don't have time for a full response just now, but will try later. Just wanted to post that you are being VERY aggressive w/ your times. For instance you are only allowing 5 days for Scotland - and half of one of those will be spent just getting there. Three days in Ireland is time for . . .well Dublin. I think you need to decide what sites/places are most important to you and cut back on the rest.
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 04:20 PM
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No - you can't do 4 countries in 3 weeks.

You are going to need to pick and choose carefully.

As for driving, have you ever driven on the opposite side of the road? We didn't find it difficult but we rented an automatic and he drove while I navigated.

Sorry - but to see the countryside you really need a car in England, Scotland and Ireland - but you are going to have to make some hard decisions since you just cannot see it all.
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Old Feb 17th, 2016, 10:01 PM
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On driving:

Petrol warning lights come on (everywhere, I imagine) when a car's got 30-40 miles' worth of petrol left. Nowhere, outside the remotest fastnesses of rural Scotland, is that far from a petrol station. Obviously, there aren't petrol stations on every street corner - but availability of petrol is merely a matter of checking the fuel gauge each morning and acting accordingly. Try to avoid filling up on motorways, where prices are extortionate.

The real car problems are:

- The things are serious nuisances to be stuck with, useless for getting around in, and cripplingly expensive to store, in London, Oxford, Bath, York, Cambridge, Edinburgh and Dublin. Almost any itinerary involving these cities needs some mixture of cars and public transport, though doing without a car altogether would be far the better option if they're the only places on your itinerary.

- Britain is densely populated, and seriously short of adequate roads for its population size and car pool (though over-roaded as far as the wretched things' impact on the environment and countryside is concerned). Driving, in effect, is far slower and painful than many foreign visitors are used to, and very very much pricier than visitors are used to if they come from countries that tolerate low fuel prices. It is, however, a great deal safer than driving in countries with lousy public transport. Road fatalities per mile driven here are half those in the US, while road fatalities per head of the population are a quarter those the US tolerates.

- Taking a car to the island of Ireland costs a king's ransom in ferry fares, and usually a minor princeling's ransom in insurance surcharges. It's almost always preferable - and infinitely cheaper - to dump a British hire car at an airport and fly to one of Ireland's many, many airports.

- Though some find (God knows why) Cambridge prettier than Oxford - in spite of the grim grey stone that contrasts so markedly with Oxford's sunny honey-coloured buildings - the architectural edge is minor and in almost every other way the two are interchangeable. But Cambridge is out on an edge of England few ever visit: Oxford's a significant transport hub, on the way from London and the Continent to most of Britain. Given the hassle of getting around Britain, a detour to Cambridge wastes valuable time. If you're staying in London, a daytrip to either takes up about as much time as a trip to the other.

- All of which said: the best way to see our countryside is on foot, and in spite of Britain's excellent public transport, the best way to get onto our unique network of country footpaths is almost always by car.The key to doing this is careful advance planning - cutting out unnecessary diversions, and doing without cars altogether for much of the trip
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 03:40 AM
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For most of what you list a car is not needed. Scotland consider using Rabbies https://www.rabbies.com/edinburgh_tour_departures.asp they have a good reputation and lots of experience. either day tours or 2~3 day tour so 5 days in Scotland fine you get to see a bit of Edinburgh and a bit out and about. Getting to Scotland can be flying from London City airport, train from London Euston (set up an email alert http://www.nationalrail.co.uk/46633.aspx and get the sale price tickets 28days before your journey) either head north in stages or maybe the sleeper?

Ireland.

0ption 1.
Fly Edinburgh into Cork. You can see Blarney castle by bus and if you want you can get to Waterford and back by bus, but if this is just for the Crystal factory, don't bother, see Cobh and Kinsale on day 2. or you can take the Ring of Kerry tour?
Day 3 email Paddywagon see if they will let you take your baggage on the Cliffs of Moher tour and drop you and your baggage at the last stop of the day Bunratty (they have allowed this in the past)http://www.paddywagontours.com/CLIFF...Tour-from-CORK spend the night in Bunratty
Day 4 bus to Dublin http://www.dublincoach.ie/timetables...ublin-city.php 20 past 9 bus from Bunratty gets you to Dublin for 12.30 so afternoon of day 4 in Dublin.
Now you have to pinch a day or add a day to have day 5 for the Dublin hop on/off tour. Fly home morning 6.

Option 2,
Fly Edinburgh to Shannon, Get the bus to Limerick for a Ring of Kerry tour on day 2 or Galway for a Connemara tour on day 2 I would head to Galway.
Day 3 Cliffs of Moher and Burren tour. Night 3 or Morning 4 get the bus to Dublin.

Option 3, Fly Edinburgh to Dublin have 2 or 3 days in Dublin, forget about Ireland (which starts outside the M50 Dublin motorway loop)until you have chance to come back with a bit more time.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 06:25 AM
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>>Getting to Scotland can be flying from London City airport, train from London Euston<<

For Edinburgh - the train is from Kings Cross, not Euston . . . Unless you take the sleeper which does use Euston .
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 06:39 AM
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"If heading north in stages" Stratford u Avon (Cotswold's) or Kendal (Lakes) "or maybe the Sleeper" are from London Euston.

Quite right, direct London to Edinburgh or going via York would be Kings Cross.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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Great advice above. I'd use the train for most of the London/Bath bits/Oxford, catch a train up to York and hire a car for visiting around there and drive up to Scotland (so Durham and Hadrian's wall stand out to me but there is a lot to see. In Scotland either use the tour company described above or drive it but realise that you will be driving a lot on what you think of as narrow roads on the wrong side of the road with the odd sheep in the way, this can be stressful.

Flanner puts it well, cars in a city are a pain.

I'd fly to Ireland. Tony2 does great Ireland, if I was advising I'd fly into Belfast, hire a car and work my way south until I hit Dublin where I'd ditch the car, spend a couple of days sightseeing in one of the better cities of the old empire and fly home. Irish pubs are a great way to spend an evening do not just go out to a restaurant and then slink back to the hotel room.

Specifics, Oxford is way nicer than Cambridge, make sure you are there in the afternoon to visit the colleges which tend to have restricted opening hours at certain times. Check on line for specific college access. Most people just do Christchurch but there are some lovely other ones, don't miss any Bodlian visit (website and book it) plus the odd church.

Wales, countryside is especially nice and the roads outside the bottom edge are especially slow. You need a car and lots of time. Can I recommend the alternative technology centre for a visit?
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 08:10 AM
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I drove my parents around England and Scotland once and we had a ball- can't see how they would have liked doing the trains and all involved - much better for a family I think to roll out of their hotel or B&B and have everything in the car - many cities have lined of hotels or B&Bs on roads leading into towns.

But if doing mainly cities then as others have said cars can be a pain - to me the beauty of Britain is in its rural areas - like the Lake District, Scottish Highlands so maybe rent a car for the rural areas and do like bilboburgler says about around London - take the train.

If doing trains check yes www.nationalrail.co.uk for schedules and fares and also these informative sites - www.seat61.com- writ by a British bloke whose whole life had been involved in working for railways until devoting his energies to his site; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 08:31 AM
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Please don't read Rick Steves for Ireland, if you do ignore 99.4% of anything and he isn't respected in the UK either.

If you want to do Belfast and either the Antrim coast (Causeway) and Glen's or Game of Thrones you can coach and sail from Edinburgh http://www.stenaline.ie/ferries-to-britain/coach-sail takes a little longer but might be cheaper/easier than flights on that route.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:36 PM
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I am very concerned about the amount you are trying to push into three weeks. You don't have time to add Wales into the equation and I do rather wonder if 3-4 days in ireland is worth the exepense and time getting there.

It might be better to slow down a bit and just spend time in London, the rest of England and Scotland. You don't say where you are coming from and whether you are likely to arrive jet lagged. If so, the first day in London will be a bit of a non day.

You don't need a car in London and it is a menace. There are quite a number of places you can do as day trips from London by train. BUT if you are wanting to see the English countryside and "getting off the beaten path" then a car is essential. Trains are fine between main towns and trying to use buses to get around large areas of the countryside is going to be slow. I live in Lincolnshire. It takes 40 minutes to get to lincoln in the car. The bus takes nearly two hours.

Unless you really are out in the wilds and I'm thinking of the highlands here, getting petrol isn't going to be a problem. Nearly all the supermarkets have a petrol station.

Driving really is the best way to see the English countryside as many of the smaller villages aren't on a bus route or if they are services are infrequent. You can't suddenly decided to stop off in a place as the next bus may be several hours wait.

If you have a good road atlas, and they can be bought cheaply, route finding won't be difficult. You don't really need Sat Nav, but this does come into its own in larger towns and cities.

Looking at time - I'd be inclined to cut out Ireland. Possibly add a couple of extra days to London for day trips - eg Windsor, Knole House in Sevenoaks and Cambridge.

My initial post was a lot longer than this but for some reason Fodors wont let me post it all. I'll try breaking it down into separate posts...
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:36 PM
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Allow 9 days to trickle up to Scotland. If Bath is a must, it might make sense to catch a train here form London and then pick up the car here (saves having to cope with driving out of London). Spend a day around Bath and another day doing /Bradford on Avon/Laccock Abbey/Stonehenge/Salisbury. Either head back to Bath for the night (advantage gives you 2 nights in the same place) OR head into the Cotswolds eg Burford. Spend a full day exploring some of the lovely Cotswold villages.

The head for York. There are hotels in the centre of York with parking eg Dean Court, or book into one of the smaller viilages. Spend a day in York. Spend a day exploring the North York Moors - less busy than the Dales and not on the tourist radar. There are some lovely small towns like Pickering and Helmsley. There is Whitby with its cliff top abbey and Dracula connections and the lovely ruined abbeus of Rievaulx and Byland.

Then head north to Hadrian's Wall with a stop at Durham on the way and also possibly Escombe with its Saxon church. Spend a day exploring the Roman Wall country (Hexham, Corbridge, housesteads, Lanercost Priory...) Book 2/3 nights in Heham, Corbridge, Haltwhistle (can recommend Hall Meadows B&B) or Battlesteads Hotel in Wark. Allow another day for Northumberland - Cragside, Alnwick CAstle, Warworth Castle... either return to your previous accommodation or else plan another stop in Northumberland eg bamburgh Inn in Seahouses or Lindisfarne Inn at Beal. This has the advantage of cutting down driving time north the next day.

If the tide times are right, try and get to Lindisfarne, Holy Island BUT do check times carefully as the island is reached by tidal causeway and the tide does come in very quickly.

Thre are lots of things you can do on your way to Edinburgh - the ruined castles of Dirleton and Tantallon. The ruined Border abbeys of Jedburgh, Melros and Drybrgh. There are lots of statley homes to choose from - Paxton, Manderston, Mellerstein, Lennoxlove, Traquair..
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:37 PM
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I've rather lost count how many days this is, but it should give you 7-9 days in Scotland.

You won't want a car in Edinburgh it makes sense to spend time exploring Scotland with your car and then drop it off for your final days in Edinburgh.

Fife with Falkland Palace, its string of fishing villages and St Andrews is lovely There is also the heritage town of Culross and a boat trip to leven castle on an island in the middle of Loch Leven.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:38 PM
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From Perth drive up through the Cairngorms the scenic route via Spittal of Glenshee to Braemar, Craithie and Grantown on Spey.

After this visit culloden and also Clava cairns a stone throw away. Fort George is also well worth visiting.

In verness is a large and busy town. If wanting to spend the night, plan on stopping in say Nairn which is much nicer.

From Inverness, drive along Loch Ness (Drumnadroichit Castle) to Fort Augustus, Fort William and Glencoe.

Return to Edinburgh through the Trossachs and the lovely small town of Callander.

I'll leave you to sort out breaks for this.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:40 PM
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As you can see, Fodors is still struggling...

AND FINALLY
Use AA route planner, which is better than google maps, but do add plenty of extra driving time to allow for stops etc.
Do a google search for the link as Fodors stalls if I try and add it.

Spend the rest of the time in Edinburgh.


Spend the rest of the time in Edinburgh.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 12:48 PM
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Please don't read Rick Steves for Ireland, if you do ignore 99.4% of anything and he isn't respected in the UK either.>

for Americans he may be useful - too often locals seem to go into overdrive on what to see and what kitsch in their view not to see but at least Steves gives it in a nutshell - his books have their good points and he is very respected in America though you would not know if from reading Fodor's Fodorgarchs usual dissing of him.

Often what a foreign tourist likes is equally important as what perhaps jaded locals like.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 01:45 PM
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Rick has his own forum and Facebook page, yet he refuses to answer questions from myself and several others.

He gives my way or the highway, incorrect, misleading, dangerous even at times illegal guidance. His plagiarism has been reported on other forums and his on the spot local information is gained by his minions making phone calls from a few miles north of Seattle as evidenced recently in an extremely low taste smiting of a conversation re cycle hire in Killarney.

Of course he is totally believable as his recent interview with a leprechaun in Dingle testifies.

I would rather be accused of being Jaded than mislead and misguide. Of course what do I know? what do any locals know? If tour bus tourists got out of their huddles and actually spoke to locals they might get more from a 5 minute conversation than 1000 pages of drivel.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 01:47 PM
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The trouble is when people slavishly follow what Rick Steves (or any other guide book) says without thinking for themselves...
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 01:48 PM
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Rick Steves is great for European countries, but I have to agree that for Ireland and the U.K. almost any other guidebook will be better. Not sure he has even spent much time in the UK.

I agree with ESW in that your itinerary is very tight. No time for Wales and you really need to sort out drive times and itinerary as some have already noted. Driving on the motorways is the quickest way to get some place but not at all scenic or fun. You simply don't have the time to do the pleasant countryside, nice villages route.
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Old Feb 18th, 2016, 03:22 PM
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>>for Americans he may be useful - too often locals seem to go into overdrive on what to see and what kitsch in their view not to see but at least Steves gives it in a nutshell - his books have their good points and he is very respected in America though you would not know if from reading Fodor's Fodorgarchs usual dissing of him.

Often what a foreign tourist likes is equally important as what perhaps jaded locals like.<<

I ain't a local, I'm not jaded, and I think I know what Americans need/want to know. As historytraveler says (and I have posted similarly many times) RS may be good to wonderful for other places -- but for the UK and Ireland he is pants (look it up)

I have met the man (twice) and had a lengthly conversation w/ him over lunch years ago - he admitted he doesn't enjoy/love the UK like he does other places . . . and it shows.
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