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3 nights in Wales - footsore and fancy free

3 nights in Wales - footsore and fancy free

Old Apr 13th, 2009, 02:47 PM
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3 nights in Wales - footsore and fancy free

Mr N and I went to Swansea in Wales for the easter weekend, so here is my first ever trip report for fodors! Be gentle with me...

Background: We run our own business, work bloody hard, horrible hours, very stressful right now, so on Tuesday last week we decided we HAD to get away for the easter weekend. We haven't been away for more than a couple of days for nearly 5 years, so this was a good break for us...but our priorities were maybe a little different to most Fodorites. We wanted a nice break and rest with a bit of activity and lots of sleeeeeeep; but mainly a change of scene. So if you think we didn't do a lot, that's why, we were just plain knackered.

My natural style with holidays and breaks is to run around fitting in a million things and making the most of every second, and to come home more exhausted than I left. Mr N's natural style is to relax around a hotel, go for a few nice meals, and maybe do a gently meander or drive somewhere. So as you'll see, a bit of compromise was necessary to keep us both happy and still talking to each other by the end of the break. Before we went, I agreed not to make him get up early, and he agreed to come and do some of 'my' stuff with me. Did it work? Yes, we both had a good time (mostly).

Good Friday.
Mr N got up at 2am to go to the office to squeeze in some last-minute stuff, while I sorted out all our laundry at home (but not getting up at 2am!) so that we actually had some clothes to pack. We got on our way about 1pm. It took us just under 5 hours to drive to Swansea, with a stop off for tea/coffee and a snack at a service station. It's easy to get to for us - just hit the M25 then follow the M4 all the way, and taking turns in driving made it quite an easy journey overall. We also have very different tastes in music so we decided that whoever was driving, would get to play one of their CDs, which has the advantage of making us both want to drive as much as possible so no-one feels put upon.

Crossing the Severn Bridge was quite impressive, although we were a bit shocked by the toll fee of £5.40. Just before the toll-booths I asked Mr N if he'd remembered his passport as we were entering another country and he believed me for 3 amusingly-panicky seconds. We kept ourselves entertained on the drive through Wales by trying to pronounce the Welsh road signs and no doubt failing utterly.

Hotel
I'd found a deal on lastminute.com, 3 nights for the price of 2 at slightly under the rack rate at the Swansea Marriot. £200 total. We were very pleased with the hotel's location. It is right on the seafront, with a marina just behind, 5 minutes walk from a supermarket, and 10 minutes walk from the town centre and several museums. The staff were very friendly and welcoming. The room was very attractively laid out, one of those beds with a whole family of cushions arranged in careful patterns, all perfectly clean, and had everything we needed plus some things we didn't (iron and ironing board? Huh! We're on holiday here...).

As well as usual packing, I had a big bag full of booze and munchies to smuggle past reception, having no intention of paying the typical mini-bar prices, and knowing that we'd want a little drinkie (or two) and snack in the evenings. So I lug a big solid bag, full of 2 litres of pepsi, a litre of vodka, a bottle of baileys, a bottle of tia maria, a bottle of wine, some pringles, some cashews, a box of maltesers and a bag of brioche rolls and jam (breakfast) nonchalantly, albeit clinking slightly, past the front desk. No we didn't drink it all - or even much of it - just some of the vodka and pepsi - but I just couldn't stop myself adding another bottle, and another, 'just in case we want a change'.

After settling in and having a little rest we drove off to town (not realising how close it all was) and managed to find about the last space in a car park. We then followed lots of people to Wind Street. This is clearly the big 'night out' street for all the students and hen/stag parties so we felt a little bit out of it. We must have been 20 years older than everyone else we saw and our clothes covered approximately 3 times as much of our bodies' surface area. Still, we don't care, and marched along arm-in-arm looking for somewhere without big bouncers on the door. I was a bit disappointed that all the people thrusting cheap drinks flyers at the passers-by didn't bother to thrust one at us old fogies... In the end we went into Nandos as we do love that chicken! Not very adventurous of us but it had been a long day after all.

When we got back to the hotel we realised that our room, 111, was out of synch. the rooms went 119, 117, 115 and then us. It wasn't until much later I realised why. Are people really so superstitious they won't stay in a room 113? Bizarre.

Reception: 'And would you like a wake-up call in the morning?'
Both: 'Noooo!'
Reception: 'Well done. you've got the right idea.'

Next:
Saturday - oops I managed to bring print-offs of work instead of print-offs of holiday research, underestimating yachts, a mile walk that wasn't, Mr N isn't impressed, and 'where's the beach gone'?
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:02 PM
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Oh yes, weather.

Despite Wales's reputation for rain, rain, rain, with a side-order of rain, we had glorious weather the whole time. It was raining as we drove through England but, seriously, the very moment we got through the Severn toll it was replaced by beautiful sunshine, blue skies, just nicely warm temperatures, with a light breeze. Perfect weather. It stayed like that for the whole 4 days.
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:06 PM
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nona, glad to hear that your trip went well. How funny that you ended up at Nandos as that's exactly where we ate last time I was in Wales (it was Cardiff but we were tired, hungry and love their spicy chicken too!).

I'm Welsh and my husband always tries to impress me by reading the signs in Welsh. In North Wales he struggled with llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysilio gogogoch!
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:07 PM
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Don't believe you about the weather though you must have taken a wrong turn and ended up in Devon!
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:16 PM
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No - it really was just perfect! I know we got lucky....

Before I continue, thanks to the fodorites who pitched in with some last-minute advice and recommendations for us on our trip, including you sassy_cat. It was a big help.
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 03:18 PM
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Two things we noticed about Wales.

Full of scary drivers and friendly dogs. God help you if you are a bit unsure of where you are heading in the car - we got beeped at a few times - but other than that everyone we met was very friendly. Got 'mugged' several times by licky waggy dogs demanding a fuss, and of course, we were happy to oblige.
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Old Apr 13th, 2009, 11:36 PM
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Glad you enjoyed it, sounds exactly like the kind of break me and Mrs Muck make quite frequently lol.

I live in Cardiff and Muck Jnr was at Swansea Uni, so we too have been up wind street feeling well out of place lol.
Swansea is undergoing a huge regeneration programme which is making the SA1 area a really lovely place.

Weather has been gorgeous here and as for the toll. The 'entrance fee' to such a beautiful country is well worth it if you want the best you have to pay for it.

I am pleased you enjoyed our lovely country, please come again !!

Muck
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 12:51 AM
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Friday extra - where's the beach?

On arrival Friday I went rushing off to look at the sea view before we'd even checked in. Mr N and I gazed at the waves splashing up over the wall/promenade. High tide. For the second time in his life he asked me 'Where's the beach?'*. I had to explain tides to him and he was rather horrified at the idea of a beach appearing and disappearing twice a day, coming from a country where they have miles and miles of golden sandy beaches that do as they are told and stay put! The next day we peeked over the edge and yes the beach was there - with the sea a long way out. Then he was worried about some people paddling getting cut off by the water and wouldn't be reassured. He didn't set foot on the beach all weekend as I think he thought 10foot of sea would suddenly appear and drown him.

*The first time was when I took him for a walk along Brighton beach, bless his little cotton socks. The idea of a beach made of stones now makes him laugh his head off every time Brighton is mentioned.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 02:01 AM
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Saturday

I woke up nice and early, about 7am, and soon got itchy feet to get out and about. This is when I discovered that I'd brought a load of work print-outs by mistake instead of my Swansea 'stuff' print-outs, so I decided I had to find some leaflets fast. The hotel didn't have any tourist info on display, which I found a bit strange. So I left Mr N asleep and snuck out, with a note that I'd return about 11am. I reckoned the museums would have some info so I set off to explore the marina area.

This is clearly an area just newly developed, some building still going on, with very glamorous looking apartments and a large marina full of boats of all shapes and sizes. There are some shops/restaurants around the edge but a disappointing number of those were still empty. I mooched about a bit, enjoying the sun and the sounds of the water and boats, found a cafe that we could go to for breakfast, and then went to the Waterfront Museum for leaflets. I was the first and only person to enter, from the marina-side doors, and felt myself going a bit pink when I just crossed through the foyer, grabbed some leaflets and left again through the main doors. All those expectant and welcoming little faces on the staff made me feel quite guilty about my hit-and-run visit. I then went to the Tescos for a couple of bits and pieces, had a look at the beach again, then returned to rouse Mr N.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 02:09 AM
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We drove to the Waterfront museum car-park, only a few minutes walk but we wanted to set off again straight away. We wished we hadn't though as the parking was a minimum £2 fee, which we thought was a bit of a rip-off. We went and had breakfast at the cafe then admired all the yachts and played 'guess how much that one costs'. There was a yacht-broker nearby and looking in the window, we found we were undervaluing everything down to about 1/3rd of the prices. £600,000 on a nice but not exactly Greek Shipping Magnate style boat? I guess there are still plenty of people not too badly hit by the recession.

We had a quick look inside the Waterfront museum but didn't really go round as it was one of those ultra-modern museums with lots of interactive this and that's but very few actual displays, and we don't find those so interesting. It is free though, and covers the effect of the Industrial Revolution in Wales, so I'm sure very worthwhile if that's more your cup-of-tea than ours. We did go into their separate tram exhibition and found that very interesting. They have 3 old trams you are welcome to go on board, and a lot of information and a film show about the tram/train line there. Who'd have thought Swansea had the first passenger train service in the world? I found the oldest tram, from the early 19th century, fascinating as it looked exactly the same as a horse-drawn stagecoach in shape, except of course the horses were drawing it along on rails instead of the road. I could almost imagine cowboys hanging off it.

Our 2 hours parking was up so we set of for the 'Waterfalls centre' in Neath valley.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 03:42 AM
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£5.70 does sound steep to get into Wales. Don't forget, though: that lets you get out as well.

You'd have thought they'd raise more if they priced it the other way round. £0.00 to go west, but £50 to be let back into a country where sheep can walk round unmolested.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 04:06 AM
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Glad you are having such a wonderful time. Swansea is one of our favorite places to visit.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 05:33 AM
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Off we go to the Waterfalls Centre at the village of Pontneddfechan (no we didn't even try to say it.) We've been attracted by the photos and promises of lots of beautiful waterfalls to visit. We enter the centre and a helpful member of staff shows us the map of the marked trails. We decide we are NOT up to walking the full-on route (several hours) so have to decide between just going as far as the first waterfall or two, or going on the 'easy access' short walk to one waterfall a short distance from the village. OK, we think, we are not up to a massive trek, but we are not complete wimps, let's do the first couple of falls on the main trail. This bearing in mind that while I quite enjoy a clamber through the countryside, Mr N doesn't like country walking, mud, etc and really is only coming to humour me. The man assures us it's about a mile to the first fall, and then the second a few hundred metres on from that, and that yes, we'll be fine in our trainers.

Like hell is it.

The gorge itself is truly beautiful. You start off walking just above the river level, and it is wonderful. Shaded by trees, with rock walls climbing maybe 100feet above you, sound of running water with little rapids bits round the rocks, we really enjoyed it. One interesting feature was seeing houses and garden fences right up against the edge of the top of the gorge at some points and we wondered what it must be like to live with a 100foot plunge at the bottom of your garden. Did seem quite a long way though.

Then the path narrowed and led up the side of the gorge. we were now clambering over exposed tree roots, rocks, and mud along a single-file path. Which went on. And on. And on. Eventually we reached the footbridge he'd advised us to cross that was 'near the first falls'. A signpost showed one fall 400 metres to the left but the next fall was 2.5km away after that! So, cursing the man, we agreed to just do the first fall. Sliding around and clambering through the woods along a little path - ah! at last! There it was. It was a beautiful fall, about 40foot high, tumbling off a shelf of rock into a shallow pool. Gorgeous in its own way but not exactly up there with the wonders of the world. Poor Mr N was not impressed however. After taking a few photos and looking at the fall for a bit we turned tail and made our way back.

So...lovely spot, but come prepared, and don't believe the man in the centre if he tells you it is just a mile away. It took us nearly 2 hours round-trip, with a few stops along the way to admire the view. We did rather wish we'd just done the wimps walk instead.

Back to the hotel, both completely cream crackered, to chill out. We both ended up falling fast asleep. Once we woke up we went back to the Marina for dinner and failed to find anywhere to eat open apart from a couple of pubs (which didn't appeal) and a Chinese Buffet restaurant. So Chinese it was. Nice enough meal, cost us about £30 including drinks. Then back to the hotel once more for a couple of drinkies and mass collapse.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 05:40 AM
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Oh and we rewarded ourselves with a nice pint at 'The Angel' pub in the village before coming back to Swansea, which looked like it earned all its custom from exhausted waterfall walkers. Their food looked good but it was a bit too early for us.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 06:37 AM
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Sunday: mumbling, getting lost, a train ride and going underground.

Sunday morning I got up early and went for a swim in the hotel pool. Just big enough for a proper swim and nicely equipped, with a sauna and whirlpool as well. There was also a small area of gym equipment but no-one was putting that to any use.

Then (again leaving Mr N snoozing) I drove down to Mumbles - a village at the end of the bay. Very sweet, everything was shut though as it was early and Easter sunday, so I just watched the fishermen, got a weather report of a boater, and took in the wonderful views. I then also drove round Bracelet Bay, which reminded me a lot of Cornwall, and popped in to Oystermouth castle. This is a complete ruin so I wasn't too sorry it was shut as I'm not sure I would have found it worth the £1 admission fee.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 08:21 AM
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On the way back I stopped off at the McDonalds 5 minutes drive from the hotel to pick up breakfast for us both, and did a quick march once again past reception looking, or trying to look, innocent.

Call us cheapskates but £15 each for breakfast at the hotel was a bit too steep. That was more what we were budgeting for dinner! I didn't see many people eating brekkie there to be honest. I'm sure if hotels charged a normal price they'd get lots more custom and end up with more profit, but I'm no expert.
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 09:25 AM
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MickeyD's sounds good to me. I am enjoying your report and looking forward to more. Thanks.

By the way, I hope you post pictures of the "nearby" waterfall!
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Old Apr 14th, 2009, 10:33 AM
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nona, if there's a 'next time' and you can persuade Mr. N then I recommend you check out the waterfall in Resolven. It's less of a hike (much less than an hour round trip ), closer to Swansea and a prettier waterfall!
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Old Apr 17th, 2009, 01:27 AM
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We decide to visit the Brecon Beacons Mountain railway (steam train ride) plus the Rhondda Valley Heritage centre (mining industry) today. 10 miles towards the railway I realise I messed up the timetable of the trains, and we'd be hanging round for an hour or so, so an abrupt about-turn took us to the Heritage Centre instead.

We arrived just as a tour was about to start, so trotted off happily with ex-miner Graham. Entry to the centre is free but the tour was about £6 a head I think. The tour advertises itself as an underground tour, cool, we get to go down a coalmine.

We were led into two building to watch two films about the history of mining in the area. These were interesting and then Graham spoke to us a bit about mining life in general, and what it was like to live in the area. Then he kept saying 'who still wants to go underground' until we were going 'yes yes yes'. Then we went into the lamp room, which was the most interesting part for me. He talked about the different lamps, gas, and canaries for quite some time and we all got to play with some stuff and learned a great deal. He'd finished off working on a rescue and safety crew so had some interesting tales to tell. Did you know canaries were a legal safety requirement until the late 1990s in the UK? And that their boxes had little oxygen cylinders in the handle to revive them if necessary?

Then we went 'underground'. It's in inverted commas as it wasn't underground at all. It was a mock up of a historic coal mine inside one of the buildings. They pretend you are going down a shaft, by shaking a lift about a bit, and then you come back up by sitting in one of those rides with a film show in front of you. Extremely well done, but I thought their advertising was more than a little misleading. The tour lasted nearly 1.5 hours.

We didn't have time to look around the rest of the site and I dragged poor Mr N away from the cafe and back to the car to get to the train station on time.
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Old Apr 17th, 2009, 08:15 AM
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Thanks for sharing, great fun to read.
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