3 months to go-down to the details for Venice, Bologna & Umbria
 

Well,our air and all our accommodations are booked, so not much room for tweaking there. We are down to some of the more detailed plans. We'll be on the ground 17 days - 6 nights Venice, 4 in Bologna, and a week in an agriturismo near Montefalco, Umbria. I had earlier anticipated 7-5-7, but some airline availability issues and what not caused me to shave a night from Venice and one from Bologna. Still, i think this will be a good balance. The greater portion of our air has been booked with points, and I secured our Venice hotel through Luxury Link at about half price, so I'm feeling pretty good about the budget. Umbria lodgings will be very economical at under 700 E. for the week.

My dear husband has accused me on previous trips of taking him on a forced march (so not the case ;o) so I am trying to back off on the planning on this one a little bit, but still be prepared somewhat so as not to find ourselves at a loss. For Venice, I think I will just reserve maybe the first night's dinner, and one where the res. might be difficult to secure.
We'll be staying in Cannaregio near Ca d'Oro. We will want to visit some museums but not several. I'll leave that a little open, and if the weather is ugly we'll head to museums, but if it turns out to be incredibly beautiful we will want to be out wandering as much as possible. (We'll be there mid October, so weather could go any which way - I suppose it always can.) Of course we will want to see St. Mark's & Doges' Palace - would reserving a time the day prior be adequate to secure an entry time with minimal waiting? I am thinking of booking ahead the "Secret Itineraries" tour. Any input on this? Could I do this through my hotel upon arrival? I think we'll both enjoy the Naval museum and a quick stop at the Glass Museum on Murano. I think the Chorus pass will be a great way to see many of the churches with their incredible art - sort of setting a loose itinerary, sort of a treasure hunt.

I plan on getting a 7 day vaporetto pass (only need 6 days, but 2 72 hours is more than a 7 day.) I'll be a few months out of foot surgery, and I think I'll have no problems, but want to be able to take the vap as much as possible. I'm a little confused by all the various combo cards for museums, etc. (even bathrooms.) Would Venice connected be the best source?

We have never been to Venice, but I have dreamed of it for many years.I really cringe at the term, "must sees." For me, it just conjures up the wrong image. But, for all the experience out there, I am open to any special tips or input for Venice? We both seek off-the path- gems, look to experience the history and unique architecture and character of the city. We are not art aficionados, but will want to enrich our exposure. We'll want to do as much strolling as my new bionic foot will allow and we both love (amateur) photography. And, of course, good food is always a major focus on all our trips!

Thanks in advance for any input you can offer, and thanks to all who have contributed to help my planning so far. I'll return later to ask questions about my other two destinations and to dial down further details.

<<< We both seek off-the path- gems, look to experience the history and unique architecture and character of the city. >>:>

I that case, could I suggest that you buy a copy of "Secret Venice" by Jonglez.
I spent a lot of happy days in Venice tracking down the quirky things, and the book gives a very different approach to the city. An example – why is there a single white stone let into the pavement on the path from the landing stage to San Pietro in Castello.

The book also discusses the iconography of Canova’s memorial in the Frari, the numerology that drives the architecture of the Salute, the location of the Venetian Bowling Club (and bar), detailed explanations of the carvings on the capitals of the columns around the Doges palace, the significance of the lozenge-shaped piece of porphyry marble in the entry to San Marco. The location of the bronze survey marker that marks the axis of basilica – which took me over an hour to find! With that book in hand, you will see lots of little details that escape the average visitor – it brings Venice alive.

Another book worth reading is Venice, by Jan/James Morris. I’ve used the 1960 publication as a guide book, and it’s fun.

We have spent several months in Venice, and I wrote a couple of agonisingly long trip reports. If you click on my user name, you would find them. Full of trivia, not a lot of useable info. Find my comments from when I visited the Ghetto – I was very moved.

You can’t help but love Venice.

Thank you for that suggestion Peter - I will definitely seek out that book. Scares me, though - I may not be able to leave after 6 days! I am already planning a return trip for a longer period. But I have to try not to get ahead of myself.

I have read your reports and enjoyed every verbose bit of them ;o) Thanks so much for your response and all your shared information.

Check my TR from Umbria last fall. We were there 2 weeks and I loved it very much. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-umbria.cfm

Montefalco was the first village we visited...there is so much to enjoy around there!

Thank you Uhoh - I remember reading your report, and now I'm enjoying your pictures all over again. Great. I sneaked a peak at work this afternoon, now how am I supposed to think about anything else?

Peter - I went searching online for "Secret Venice." Could it be that is it already out of print? Neither Amazon or B&N have it available, nor is it available through the library network. The mythical grapes, just out of reach. I will try our local used book stores.

Amazon has it:
http://www.amazon.com/Secret-Venice-.../dp/2915807698

OOOP! Just noticed the prices. Looks like it may be out of print. I bought it from Amazon two years ago . . . you might try Alibris.com

Thank you! They do have it and I am ordering it right away. $15 looks a little more manageable than $999! I had never heard of that sight, and it has never come up when I did searches. Yay!

I bought my copy of Secret Venice from the Peggy Guggenheim book shop in Venice. I don't recollect the price, but it was worth every euro.

I would book the "secret behind the scenes" at the Doge's palace in advance, we went during shoulder season and they had sold out weeks prior. The secret Venice book sounds very interesting. Take time to just wander around, I founds some fabulous areas one day while I was just taking on an unplanned "no map" walk.

Thank you jclark. I think that is one event I will pre-book. For the most part I wanted to keep our time "open" so we could go wandering in search of the odd, the beautiful and the serendipitous. It would be a shame, though, if it was unavailable.

And thanks to everyone who has taken the time to write a detailed trip report. You can bet I have poured over every one. This trips was supposed to have been a year ago, but for a number of reasons had to be postponed -- so all the more time for me to take the trip over and over in my mind!

In addition to the standard guidebooks and the title mentioned above that I am anxiously waiting for I also like the Frommers' books "24 Great Walks in _____" We used their Rome book to structure several of our days in Rome - combining a couple of their 2-3 hour walks makes a perfect day (punctuated by a few wine and/or gelato stops.) The Venice edition looks like it will serve very well, if its spine and pages hold up until October ;o)

Hmmm...is it serendipitous if one goes searching for it?

The next segment of this trip will be Bologna. We plan to leave by train around noon or a little before, arriving into Bologna early afternoon - hopefully in time for a nice lunch. With just a half hour longer trip on the R trains - anyone see any advantage in going for the Fast trains? I don't know if we'll want to pre-book. With one fast train and one R train per hour, I can't imagine we'd have any problem getting a seat if we just walk up(?)

In Bologna we'll be staying at the Metropolitan, which appears to be a short walk to Serghei. I'm hoping we can check in and take the quick walk over for lunch - should be a nice intro to Bologna.

We'll just have 4 nights here - about 3.5 days. One day will be taken up with the Italian Food Tour with Alessandro. I have read so many great reviews of this trip and am thoroughly looking forward to it. I can say right from the beginning I have a comfort level - every e-mail has received a prompt response, and the enthusiasm and friendly nature comes through even in the booking process.

So, with just 2.5 days remaining we will be hoping to visit a few very inviting sights and have some nice lunches and dinners. We hope to walk up to San Luca (did I get that right) and reward ourselves with lunch at Meloncello afterward. For anyone that has been, may I ask your opinion of the museum Pianoteca?