Fodor's Travel Talk Forums - Trip Report 3 Generation Trip to Paris and the Loire Valley

This was the third "Christmas present" trip we've taken with my daughter and son-in-law and twin granddaughters, now 9 years old and consequently already travel addicted. The first two were winter trips (to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and then to Salzburg and Vienna) but school and work commitments forced this one to be just as school was getting out. We picked Paris for all the obvious reasons and the Loire Valley because we were with daughter and son-in-law there when Mom was pregnant with the twins and decided on Loire as a perfect middle name for one of them; so it was only natural that Anna Loire would want to see "her' river.

Since the flights and hotels we'd chosen months ago had us in France and traveling during the train strike I watched with so many of you the day by day reports here and elsewhere of how the strike was progressing and obsessed about what we would do to make our trip work in spite of the problems the whole country faced. (My thanks to kerouac and all the others who kept us apprised of how things were progressing on the very helpful thread we consulted continuously on this forum.) We were, in fact, scheduled to train from Paris to Tours on the TGV on one of the scheduled strike days and I probably went through about 20 plans for what to do about it, from cancelling the Loire part of the trip completely and just remaining in Paris, to driving from Paris to the Loire, etc, etc. In the end we decided to cut back one day from the 6 we'd originally scheduled in Paris and add it to the 2 we'd scheduled in the Loire giving us a 5/3 plan which in hindsight proved much better than the original. The day we'd cut out would have been devoted to a trip to Versailles which wasn't a horrible loss given that the Loire furnished plenty of castles and grounds and fancy interiors to make up for what we missed at Versailles.

Luckily I'd booked our hotels with cancellable terms and the hotel in the Loire still had rooms available to book for the night prior to our original booking. We had to move between rooms within the hotel but the staff took care of all of that. We also had to switch train tickets but got refunded and managed to add a day to our van rental for driving in the Loire without any problems, so in the end, we lost only the price of tickets for Versailles and the Kings Apartments tour that I'd booked there.

In Paris we booked rooms at Novotel Les Halles for its central location and accommodations that provided family rooms without breaking our travel budget. On past trips we'd walked by the back side of that hotel on numerous trips through the Les Halles area and felt so smug that we weren't staying "there" but rather in a "real Parisian hotel" on the Left Bank. Well there's a time and a place for everything and when you're reserving for 6 rather than 2 and you can get a room that accommodates 4 you reassess your priorities. Turns out this place not only met our needs, but we actually liked it. I recommend it highly to anyone taking a family to Paris. Here's what was good about it.

It was modern and actually pretty "Americanized" so it didn't creep the girls out by being too small, too old, too anything but what they've become used to traveling in the US. Made their intro to Paris much easier. Rooms were not huge but large enough so that you could get around with four people and two beds in a room, nicely decorated and newly refurbished with a great walk in shower, though a bit shy of good storage space. The place, from the front side which we'd never seen before, has a nice entry and lobby--with lots of American families with kids sitting it in from time to time--indoor and outdoor bars, a restaurant, a small childrens' play room, and best of all a wonderful breakfast room for the excellent serve- yourself breakfast that was included in our reasonable-for-what-you-get rate. It is across a pedestrian street from a cute very Parisien-looking bistro. In short, it was perfect for our needs

As soon as we got ourselves settled, we walked about, found ourselves lunch and took the Pont des Vedettes one hour boat ride on the Seine for which I'd gotten advance tickets. It proved a great first day activity and a lovely intro to Paris for the girls. The following day CLAM (what we call the family, made up from the first letter of each of their first names--could also have been CALM but that just wouldn't fit) set off for the Louvre and Tutu and Dodo (what they call us--it's a long story) having been to the Louvre at least a couple of times previously, trekked to the Tuilleries and had a leisurely stroll, a cup of coffee, and some peace and quiet (the girls stayed in our room while in Paris). Actually this approach was cooked into the plan for the trip--CLAM would periodically take off for something the girls "must see" and we would find a place nearby to sit and watch the French world go by. It proved perfect for everyone and probably saved the family. It also saved money. For example our daughter and son-in-law got 4 day museum passes and we had thought to get 2 day passes but wound up just paying entry for the few museums to which we accompanied CLAM, some of which weren't even on the pass. We also did not accompany CLAM to Galleries Lafayette since Dodo hates shopping, nor did we ascend the Arc de Triomphe or the Eiffel Tower, and though none of us got to Versailles our plan for that was to have CLAM take in the palace and meet us after in the Gardens while we strolled and city (rather than the crowded palace) and finally got to the city market which I've always wanted to do--still now saving that for next time.

I'll not put you through a day by day account of the rest of our trip but rather try to touch on the highlights with some comments that I hope
might prove helpful to those of you considering a family trip and, of course, make some comments about our dining since for me, at least, that is a highlight of any trip.

Since the girls have been raised trekking off to markets any time they are available, it was essential that we spend time at at least one market. We chose President Wilson since it's one of the biggest and best and it fit easily into our schedule for the day. The girls seemed to feel very at home in the market and it was an easy shot from the end of it to the Trocadero and from there to the Eiffel Tower, which they, like every new Paris tourist absolutely HAD to ascend.

Probably our best overall day also included a market--and was spent primarily on the Left Bank, our favorite. We started with the Luxembourg Gardens, then went to the Pantheon, toured St. Ettiene du Mont, stopped at Place Contrescarpe where the girls sat quite comfortably by the fountain near an infirm (and also drunken) old man, causing Anna to worry about getting him some food. We then descended down the Rue Mouffetard market street and wound up at the Dans des Landes Basque tapas (something for everyone) restaurant where we had possibly our best full family meal of the trip with food-adventurous Maija eating calamari served in an old wooden shoe and netted kind-hearted Anna a doggie bag to leave for homeless people that we saw along our route.

After lunch our first stop was the Museum of Natural History which I was determined to have the girls visit since I love it and thought they would too. I was right. They enjoyed especially the fabulous "animals of all kinds" display I think of as "Leaving the Ark," loved seeing a Norwal that they had studied in school, and even saw a real Dodo in the area of extinct animals.

As we approached this trip I harbored the hope that I might get a chance to see one new attraction but figured it could never fit in--Atelier des Lumieres that kerouac had drawn my attention to on this forum. Interestingly enough my daughter had come upon it in her reading too and asked if there was any way we could fit it in. I figured Dodo would squelch the idea as the voice of reason concerning not over extending but I convinced the photographer in him that it would be a treasure trove of fabulous pictures/video once he saw the images kerouac had posted here/on Any Port in a Storm. Well everything conspired to get us there and though it is a schlepp and challenged our travel capabilities we made it. Worth every step/connection. The girls were entranced, I was ecstatic and the photographer was overwhelmed. This place has something for everyone. I am so glad I saw it and will watch for more installments and willingly repeat this one. It's definitely worth the trip off the beaten track to get to it. In fact, pretty soon I'm sure there will be quite a beaten path to it. I certainly recommend booking ahead on-line since the entry lines are quite long.

We left Paris the following (blissfully non-strike day) by TGV to Tours where we picked up a rental van into which the six of us and all our bags fit handily and took off for Montbazon and the wonderful Domaine de la Tourtinieres, a place I have seen forever advertised in magazines and guidebooks and that proved everything we'd hoped for in a "chateau hotel in the Loire" where Maija could play princess and Anna could celebrate her name in style. We were assigned rooms in the out buildings and though I was initially disappointed, after seeing the number of steps up to the rooms in the main building, I was grateful. The rooms are beautifully decorated, very spacious and well equipped. The whole place is very child-friendly as shown in their internet site video, and they mean it. The girls loved the pool and the billiards room in the stand alone sort of doll house-like "mini-castle" across from the chateau entry, and our daughter and son-in-law even took the chateau boat out for a ride on the river. We also had a picnic on the grounds one evening for supper from snacks we picked up at boulangeries and epiceries on our travels that day--made a nice break from dining in fancy restaurants for the girls and all of us for one evening. Staff were very helpful. The place was perfectly kept. The entire experience was everything we wanted for all of us. Well worth the price which was actually not nearly as high as I had always thought it would be.

After installing ourselves in the Domaine, we headed out to start castle touring. Including Azay-le-Rideau, which we saw on our first afternoon, we visited (or at least saw) 6 chateaux during our three days --Azay on day 1, Chambord and Amboise on day 2, and Chenonceau, Langeais--a walk by, and Villandry on day 3. Combining outdoor grounds and walking with indoor touring worked great to appeal to and quell youthful spirits while keeping the girls' attention.

So on to the dining. Let me say that it all worked out amazingly well. The number and variety of things the girls will eat has been steadily growing. In fact, Maija is showing signs of becoming a gourmet diner with willingness to try lots of things and a strong love of oysters and other seafood. In dining, as in sightseeing, we also worked to provide some "spaces in our togetherness." While in Paris, both couples had one childless evening meal and because we chose not to "do" the Eiffel Tower we got a bonus "lunch a deux" before rejoining the tower climbers.

Pramil, at rue Vertbois 9 in the 3rd arrondissement not far from the Arts et Metiers museum, was our choice for our night out. It's a favorite. We've been three times and enjoyed each. It's small, probably seating less than 30 total in two small rooms. They serve a three course evening meal with choices for 33 euros and they have (or had, my guides are getting somewhat old) a 28 Zagat rating for food. In short it's one of the best, least expensive gourmet meals in Paris. My starter of roasted octopus with grapefruit and celery root slices sounds odd but proved divine The main of pork steak Spanish style accompanied by peas and white asparagus was good though not exceptional but the dessert of perfect stawberries with cucumber sorbet ended the meal on a note of extraordinary bliss. The waiter was helpful and cheery but professional and the jolly (and inspired) chef stopped to thank us, All in all a delightful meal and a perfect way to spend our "night out."

Our other "alone" meal while CLAM attacked the Tower, was at another old favorite--Cocottes at 135 Rue St. Dominique in the 7th arrondissement, not far from the Tower. it never disappoints. All of their dishes are served in Staub pots or utensils which provides an immediate feeling of old-fashioned homeiness even if the place is perfectly modern with dining at high top tables or on stools at the counter. I had raviolis in artichoke cream, then a main of pig trotter meat stuffed into three boiled potato halves and finished with apple/pear crumble--all perfectly done and wonderful. Chef Christian Constant who owns three restaurants on the street and is kind of an unofficial mayor of it was in residence that day and chatting diners up--I think because he honestly likes to and it pretty well shows in his food.

I've already mentioned one of our other "best" meals of the trip--with the whole party of six of us at Dan de Landes, 119 Bis Rue Monge just beyond the Medard church at the base of Rue Mouffetard. We dined outdoors at a high table. Since it's a Basque tapas menu everyone got to order helter skelter whatever sounded good and though the waiter kept warning us that we were over-ordering we found that we just had to have this that and the other so we could try it. The girls got into the spirit of the whole idea (though Maija guarded her calamari in a wooden shoe quite jealously) and everyone had a wonderful time. Among other things, the standouts were deep fried cheese on a stick, Asian style ribs, and ravioli with truffle though I think everyone liked everything they ordered best. Best of all it sort of taught the girls a lesson in "trying and tasting." At least I hope so, that's pretty well key to having good dining experience with children IMO.

Another one of our better meal experiences in Paris was at the old standby Chien Qui Fume in the Les Halles area at 33 Rue de Pont Neuf. It was just us and the girls since this was Mom and Dad's night out. I was hoping they would have something for everyone and I was right. It's always nice when kids can get an actual children's meal while the grownups can pig out on Tete de Veau and other kid-described "icky" things. Waiters were nice and the vibe and surroundings are pleasant and prices reasonable. A good family place.

Two other meals were at old-favorites of ours and our kids to which we were anxious to return and hopefully find the grandkids to enjoy as well--and they did, thank goodness. Ambassade d'Auvergne, 22 Rue de Grenier St. Lazare in the 3rd, is a place we've been going to since our first trip to Paris. I found a card for it on the floor of the plane on which we flew to the city, considered it a sign, acted on it and the rest is history. Food and decor are from the Auvergne region of France and their specialty is aligot, a mashed potato and cheese concoction that when whipped to a frenzy becomes elastic such that a skilled waiter can lift the wooden whipping spoon to create potato strings of up to 5 ft long which he then plops on your plate in a sumptuous puddle. Even if you're not into mashed potatoes the theater of it all is irresistible. The girls loved it. It was also perfect for the rainy night in which we ate it. The girls also enjoyed the other aspects of the meal and the waiter could not have been better with kids. A great time.

Our final Paris meal was everything we wanted it to be. We first went to Chez Vong (10 rue de la Grand Truanderie, an unassuming street near the rather tacky Rue St. Martin between Les Halles and the Pompidou) on one of our early trips to Paris and we've been going ever since. Our daughter and son-in-law went on their honeymoon and it's her favorite restaurant ever, so we were all anxious to have the twins enjoy it as much as we do--and I think they did. First of all it's beautiful, simply stunning, It has things you recognize as Chinese from other places but they are displayed in a setting that is almost garden-like, serene and peaceful. The food is Chinese, recognizably so (good, since I think most kids tend to like Chinese food, at least they do in our family) but more gourmet. We all feel a tie to this place and each time we go, we look for and say hello to the delightful chef/owner Mr. Vong whom we affectionately call "Giggles" since he covers his embarrassment about not speaking the many languages of his customers by smiling, bowing and giggling. Without even being asked, he appeared at the end of our meal (perhaps the staff had heard us talking of wanting a picture) and posed with us all surrounding him. Pretty cool memory for the girls (and the rest of us) especially considering that the Chez Vong website contains notes of appreciation from such noteworthy fellow diners as Catherine Deneuve and Jacques Chirac. As you may have guessed from all of this, prices at Chez Vong are considerably higher than those at most Chinese restaurants but certainly not more than equivalent non-Chinese meals at American or other Paris restaurants. We love it and now the girls do too.

Our dining in the Loire was good but not generally as good as in Paris, perhaps because I did not do as much advance planning for our meals there. Most noteworthy were our last meal at the Domaine and one that my daughter had kindly researched on the fly as we arrived in Langeais at lunchtime on a market day at Au Coin des Halles, 9 rue de Gambetta.. We were lucky to get a table because upon sitting down the place immediately packed up to over- flowing. The place is modern and has a lovely outdoor garden seating area which was unfortunately not in use that day. I think it must be fairly new since I do not recall it from previous trips in the area. Though the packed house meant service was slow, the food was very good, and the girls declared their food best of the trip. Anna had plain salmon and Maija had plain chicken. These folks must have experience with American children. The children's menu couldn't have been better--for kids.

Our last meal of the trip --at the dining room of our Loire hotel, Domaine de la Tortiniere--was my proudest. The girls dressed for dinner and were on their best behavior and pulled it off in spite of the 2 and 1/2 hours we spent at table. Additionally the food was good, I and my son-in-law both had shrimp in yuzu gelatin for a starter and I followed with amb with artichokes and ended with a strawberry dessert. The girls had chicken and fish and jus de paume (their new, best French phrase) and chocolate with strawberries. A total success.

The next day we drove to Tours to drop off our rental van and hopped on the TGV direct to CDG and from there home to MCO (for CLAM) and FLL (for Tutu and Dodo.) This was about the slickest thing ever. Our flight back to the States didn't leavefrom De Gaulle until 3:00 so we wound up not having to spend a "wasted" day traveling back to do one night in Paris or worse yet at the airport before flying back. Would that it were possible to make similar arrangements after staying in other areas of France (like Normandy, for example) before the flight home.

So there you have it. CLAM goes to Paris and the Loire with Tutu and Dodo. A good time was (thankfully) had by all.