Tuppy1

Our flights from Australia took us to Barcelona by way of a stopover in Bangkok. We were to take a river cruise on the MS Swiss Pearl down the Rhone River from Arles to Lyon, then on to Paris.

We were met by our cruise director at our hotel - the lovely Eurostars Marina. Service here is exceptional from young and enthusiastic staff and the breakfast food was outstanding.

We enjoyed our three days here. Ate some great local seafood and enjoyed excellent Spanish wine. Inexpensive Tapas bars aplenty - all good fun! Great walks by the marina and a very easy city to traverse by foot. Warned it seemed, excessively, about pickpockets, were shocked to have a waiter at a marina eatery immediately remove my handbag from beside me on my chair, place in on another chair at our table, push the chair in and cover it with a small tablecloth! So.......we were made very aware of our need to be vigilant.

Then by coach to join our ship, visiting the lovely and interesting Carcasonne along the way.

After 7 nights aboard, with wonderful day visits to Avignon, Roquemaure,Viviers, Tournon, Vienne & Trevoux, visiting villages, tasting goat cheese at a goat farm, visiting wineries, sampling wonderful products at a number of markets, we arrived in Lyon. After 2 days in Lyon, we headed to Paris.

Tuppy1

By way of explanation. We had originally booked a package tour which was to commence with 3 days in Barcelona, 7 days river cruising on the Rhone, followed by 6 days in Switzerland. We had then booked airfares from Switzerland to Paris and an apartment there for 6 days prior to our return to Australia on 7th June.

We had pre-paid our airfares some 8 months prior to our tripas APT (AMA Waterways) offer very good airfares and as our travel agent had remarked, "when have you ever seen airfares go down?" Hmmm. well - not before the credit crunch hit!

However, as that crunch was felt around the world, AMA cancelled the trip we had booked, so we switched to the Barcelona/River Cruise/Paris trip.

We were then left with 7 days to "fill in" before we could access our apartment in Paris. Easy. We had always wanted to visit the Menen Gate to be at the Last Post ceremony held each evening in memory of the WW1 Commonwealth fallen, so booked a B&B in Brugges and then, thanks to a number of Fodorite trip reports, 5 nights in an partment in Dijon.

So......now in Paris for 2 days after our cruise...

we explored a part of Paris we had not seen in a previous visit. We were taken on tours of Notre Dame (still fascinating second time around) and a river cruise, ditto. After that we indulged in our favourite way to view cities - just walk. We bought yummy baguettes and smelly cheeses and ate in our room that night.

On the 3rd day we said goodbye to our travelling companions - including 6 fellow Aussies and honorary Aussies from Florida (Butch and Anne).

We had enjoyed their company immensely, but were now ready just to be together.

Next - Off to Brugge





Arrived in Paris on a cool, windy afternoon for 3 days of sightseeting in and around the area of The Republique. We were accommodated in a hotel in the square and ate that night at Chez Jenny. Food was good and plentiful, wine by the glass.

We had been

Tuppy1

whoops. sorry

Last paragraph should have been the first!

Tuppy1

Thanks to many on this Forum, sometime ago I was able to negotiate the SCNF website and obtain tickets for our trip. First, PREMs for Gare de Nord to Brussels, where we bought a ticket to Brugge. I also printed at home PREMs for our last journey, Dijon to Paris. The in-between journeys were not PREMs but I was easily able to collect them at each station, useing the credit card to which they were charged and had been able to obtain all at very good rates some three months prior to our journey.

I love train travel. Scenic, no other vehicle hassles and without the need to navigate (something I must admit I do not excel at), journeys are always pleasant. Ate our lunch and relaxed. When we arrived in Brussels however, we believed we had ten minutes to change trains, but this had been reduced to four minutes, due to a short delay. With apologies from the train guard, we grabbed our suitcases (1 each) and plunged down the stairs and puffed up the other side staircase and rushed onto our train, which almost immediately left the station.

Arrived in Brugge and took a taxi to our recommended B&B - the lovely Cote Canal. Taxi ride to the B&B was 9 eruos, taxi ride out was little over 10 euros. We arrived late in the afternoon and it was very cold!

We were welcomed by Caroline, the owner and shown our rooms...and what lovely rooms. Cote Canal has 3 stories, two of which house guests with the bottom floor containing the breakfast room and Caroline's home.

The house has been in Caroline's family since the early 1900's and is furnished with original furniture and paintings, with modern fittings added, such as the large bathrooms. Antique china graces the breakfast room which looks out onto a small garden, right next to the canal. Picture-book perfect, with a quince tree in the centre and lovely gardens, breakfast can be served there in warm weather.
We loved our stay here.

Armed with a local map provided by Caroline, we walked around the main square and its surrounds. We had made a dinner reservation for a nearby restaurant "Den Dyver" so after a shower and change, we headed off across the little bridge over the canal to dinner.

Dinner was a degustation menu of 4 courses, with matching wines. A la carte is available. This was a memorable dining experience. The food and wine outstanding, the ambience of the restaurant warm and welcoming, with excellent, but not stuffy, service.

Breakfast each morning was fruit, yoghurt, breads and delicious jams - a different variety each morning - (cheese and meats also available) and freshly brewed coffee or tea.
At breakfast Caroline handed me my scarf, which I had unknowingly left at the restaurant the night before. Restaurant staff had telephoned her just prior to closing and she had gone to the restaurant to collect it for me, as they would not be opened the following day. What a thoughtful gesture from all.

Saw the lovely ancient Hospital and its grounds, the Church, the Tower and then onto exploration of the market. Delicious food, cooked and fresh, a dizzying array of fresh flowers and fruit. We bought freshly cooked marinaded chicken legs and little roasted potatoes sprinkled with salt and some bread. Found a seat in a spot that offered a little sunlight and ate.

Refreshed, we walked further, exploring some of the lace shops as we went. I bought two hand-made lace bookmarks and seeing my interest in a display of antique lace, the owner of the shop showed me a drawer of antique lace. He carefully cuts out a section of say, a flower or a little scene from an overall damaged piece, which he then carefully places on velour and frames.

Later in the afternoon we stopped at one of the many Tea Shops and shared a "Belgium Waffle with Berries and Cream" - and what a large treat it was. Just delicious.

Husband went to the railway station to check our tickets, as I had taken advice and booked Brugge to Lille on our outward journey, then onto Gare du Nord, but since making the booking, we had been advised there were serious "works in progress" on the Lille side and we would have to leave the train just before Lille and be "bussed" in. Station staff confirmed the works were still in progress.

Back to Cote Canal, as we had booked a "Last Post Tour" for that evening. Operated by Nathan, we were collected promptly at 6p.m. and with an English couple and another Australian, we taken on a tour of part of the countryside under seige during WW1, with a short stop at Tyne Cot cemetary, then onto the Menin Gate for the evening's ceremony and playing of the Last Post at 8.00p.m. Nathan advised us where to stand for the best view of the buglers and we were fortunate to meet the oldest bugler, an 84 year old gentlemen who has played the Last Post
for the past 54 years. A moving ceremony and wonderful to see older children with an understanding of the remembrance of the ceremony.

It was heartwarming to see the emotion on the face of the English lady with us as Nathan helped her find the name of her grandfather, etched on the Gate. The other gentleman, a Vietnam veteran, looked across at Tyne Cot and could not speak.

Then back to Brugge, where Nathan kindly deposited us at a restaurant near to our B&B for a late-night dinner of Flemish stew and frites.

By now it was 10.00p.m. and Brugge was very quiet and very cold as we walked back to our lovely warm room.

After breakfast the following morning, we said our goodbyes to Caroline, a very gracious hostess and took our taxi to the train station.

As it happened, the "works in progress" had finished a day early, according to the train conductor and we had an uneventful journey through to Gare de Nord.

At Gare de Nord we took a taxi to Gare de Lyon, where we would board a train for our next stop - Dijon.

Our taxi driver, originally from Ghana, picked up on our Aussie accents and keenly spoke with us about Australia, its plants and its wildlife and a little of his life in France. An interesting gentlemen and a pleasant taxi ride.

Next:
Dijon

Tuppy1

After another relaxing train journey, munching on our baguettes and enjoying the scenery, we arrived at Dijon station where we were welcomed by the delightful Coco. Thanks to reviews on this Forum, we had booked five nights in Coco's apartment.

She drove us to the apartment, giving a short orientation talk on the way. The studio apartment is just lovely. Large and airy, in the very centre of Dijon, with Coco having thoughtfully provisioned the little kitchen for our first day, together with an array of little local treats. Nothing for her guests' comfort has been overlooked. The apartment faces a pedestrian access area which is very quiet, though the main entrance is from the main street of town, then through a large courtyard and up one flight. Very secure.

After settling in and scanning some of the local restaurant recommendations, we wandered through the main part of the town and down a few side streets to find "Chez Leon" where we made a dinner reservation for the following evening and a booking for lunch the following day at the highly recommended Stephane Derbord.

We looked in at the Museum across the road from our apartment, went in to see the glorious painted walls and ceilings of the City building, which is not normally open to the public. In that week it was being used for a public purpose and Coco had suggested we pop in for a look - exquisite!

Next came difficult choices to make for dinner in the apartment - yummy smelly cheeses, cold meats, etc. and a few carefully chosen mixture of dark and milk chocolate treats. All carefully wrapped and presented, we then purchased a bottle of local wine and enjoyed dinner and planned our next few days.

Next morning it was off to the markets. A wonderful array of produce and flowers of course, but also a fantastic array of cotton skirts, jackets, etc. for women and children. I fancied a many-tiered, assymetrical skirt and decided to come back the following day to try it on and to purchase some of the lovely children's clothing.

Lunchtime....and we bought delicious meatballs cooked inside large tomatoes, slices of vegetarian slice, some wonderful bread (how I love French bread) and a type of bean and asparagus salad. Lunch in our lovely apartment, then out to follow the "Owl trail" from the map Coco had supplied.

Had a wonderful afternoon on the Owl Trail. Easy to follow "markers" in the streets, with an explanation of each site on the guide.

Early evening, still quite light....so back to the apartment to have a short rest, then shower and dress for dinner.

But....it was not to be. A little while after reaching the apartment I began to feel very unwell. Husband napping, I rushed to the toilet. Now feeling groggy, headed back to the bed, felt faint, moved too quickly....bang! toes on iron bedleg..sharp pain...flopped on bed to prevent fainting. Within minutes needed to again go to toilet, lifted foot to see middle toe off at a bizairre angle to foot. Had seen my rugby-playing son many years ago "snap" back a dislocated finger that presented in this manner, so "snapped" toe back and hobbled to toilet.

Husband now awake...standing outside toilet door. I then remember after washing my hands I turned towards the door...then nothing until I heard him say he was going to call an ambulance. I asked "why" and then immediately, "my head hurts". I had fainted, crashing through the outward-opening (thank goodness) door and onto the floor.

Alarmed now, he helped me to the bed, where I lay, feeling very, very ill. Huge lump on head, beginning in my hairline and extending down almost to one eyebrow. Did not want ambulance - ambulance equals hospital and I figured I had simply contracted a 48 hour bug. Cancelled Chez Leon.

Next day, in bed, sipping water and simply sleeping. Cancelled lunch. Husband purchased anti-pain cream, tape and cover for toe, now twice its normal size. Late in the afternoon began feeling nauseated and by late evening, had been ill and feeling dreadful. Husband called Coco, who was absolutely marvellous, gently chiding him for not calling sooner. She arranged an after-hours doctor to call, who administered an anti-nausea injection.

Next day - bed again, sipping water and sleeping. Forehead lump now a rather prominent black/blue feature Following day up and about (albeit carefully on toe - lucky had bought soft walkers) and we roamed around, sat and had coffe, did a little more roaming, before purchasing dinner and back to the apartment. Sampled and enjoyed varieties of wonderful mustard. No markets - missed skirt!

The following morning, armed with our map, we did a little more roaming before gathering our suitcases and Coco collected us for the midday train.

We will go back to Dijon...and Coco's lovely apartment. Dijon is a walker's delight, houses many wonderful buildings and parks, has superb local food and is simply one of the loveliest places in France.

Next:
Back to Paris

Tuppy1

Back to Paris and to an apartment we booked in the Marais district.

As we reached the kerbside, I noticed a small, very flattened scruffy toy koala and I jokingly remarked to my husband that I hoped that it was not a bad omen!

The apartment manager met us as arranged and showed us through the apartment. She explained the internet was somewhat problematic (we had booked on the understanding we could use our laptop which we use to contact our business). She telephoned the next day and we managed to connect the laptop and obtain instructions on how to use the television.

The apartment is clean, but sombre to the point of depressing. There is only one window which opens directly from the bedroom onto the atrium area. Until well past midnight each night tenants arrive through that atrium, parking bicycles and talking loudly. The bed is very short and narrow and at 5'6" I managed some sleep, but my 6' husband could not. We closed the window, but the bedroom is very small and other than that window, has no ventilation.

Towels are thin and extremely scratchy, bathroom miniscule. The couch is scuffed and marked and whilst the street noise from the balcony french doors did not worry us, the balcony could not be used. It contained leftover painters pots and dollops of plaster and the glass was very dirty.

There was "goop" left in the washing machine and some of the crockery had to be rewashed. After two largely sleepless nights, we did the unthinkable after 10 years of B&Bs and apartments and moved to the Novotel hotel down the road.

Nonetheless, we were determined to enjoy our time back in Paris and we did. The Marais/Les Halles areas are fascinating. Hotel de Ville, Place de Voges, the Passages and just about everything in between. We certainly gave meaning to "licking the glass" as there is such a wonderful variety of stores, from artisan to courture.

We also ventured to Galleries Layfette and enjoyed cake and coffee under the dome at Printemps. Strolled through the Madelaine area, which we had enjoyed so much on our last visit.

Can highly recommend le Colimacon and Chez Denise for dinner. We just loved our visits here and had dinner twice at Chez Denise, being "adopted" my couples either side of us on both occasions. Conversations ranged between the merits (or otherwise) of the French/Australian Rugby Union teams, to Australian wildlife to interesting information (for us) on Corsica.

Isn't that just the best part of travel?

Coquelicot

Sorry your trip included health problems so serious you needed a doctor. You seemed to take it in your stride, as though it's all part of the experience. That's a good attitude to take.

We think the way you do, that talking to people is a major part of the fun of travel.

I liked that your trip report included the positives and negatives. When somebody loves everything about their trip, I always wonder about them!

Tuppy1

Thank you Coquelicot

cocofromdijon

Thank you very much for your nice report Sherri. I do hope things will be better next time and that you feel perfectly well now