3-4 days in Provence or Burgundy?
 

I am trying to plan for a trip to France in late September. This will be my first trip to France and my husband's first trip to Europe. We have 9 days and I am planning to start in Paris for 4 - 5 days, then take the train, rent a car and explore Provence or Burgundy. After touring Paris I think we will be looking forward to exploring quaint villages and taking in the scenary. Pros/Cons of Provence vs. Burgundy in late Sept/early Oct? If we end our trip in Provence should we return home via Nice or CDG?

Burgundy should be lovely in late September, while it's still high season (read crowded) in Provence. So I'd recommend Burgundy, especially as you don't really have enough time to see much of Provence after you add in travel time. You can take the TGV from Paris to Dijon in under an hour, pick up a rental car, and head out to see the countryside--including the village where "Chocolat" was filmed, and perhaps staying at Leslie Caron's auberge. The cathedrals at Vézelay and Autun are must-sees; Beaune is delightful; Dijon has a fine museum (the former ducal palace); and there are any number of charming villages. Also, if you need more, the food and wine are superb.

Thanks for the feedback, I was leaning toward Burgundy and you have made my decision easier (were from NYC and would like to avoid the crowds). I was previously considering Hotel Le Cep or Relais Chateaux in Beaune due to Beaune's central location for exploring Burgundy, but Leslie Caron's auberge looks wonderful - Exactly what I was looking for!

We have stayed three times at Leslie's small hotel. Be warned about the top suite; the stairs, built-in stone are so narrow we had to go up and down almost sideways.

If we rent a car in Dijon, drive and stay in Beaune, can we expolore Vezelay by car or is it too far. I'm torn between staying at Le Cep or Leslie Caron's.

I agree with Burgundy if you have just a few days. I spent 10 days there last October, and loved every minute of it!
Beaune would be more centrally located than Leslie Caron's hotel, which is in the northern part of Burgundy. All parts of Burgundy are beautiful, though.
I loved the Maconnais area in the south, too. Vezelay might be a little far from Beaune, but I'm sure lots of people do that as a day trip from Beaune. I stayed in several parts of Burgundy, since I had 10 days. Near Vezelay, I stayed at the Moulin des Ruats, which I loved, and it has a wonderful restaurant- the setting is lovely there.

Re Leslie Caron's hotel: friends just returned from a visit to the restaurant there reported that there was a strong odor in the vicinity. It turned out that cow dung was being burned in the bar's heating stove, and the smell had permeated upstairs into the hotel.

My recommendation for a lovely place to stay in Burgundy--with good access north to Vézelay--is the Hostellerie du Vieux Moulin, in the hamlet of Bouilland. The village is about a 20-minute scenic and bucolic drive from Beaune, through the wine village of Savingny-lès-Beaune, and the restaurant has one Michelin rosette. The Hostellerie has only about 20 rooms, some in the ancient building adjoining what must be the world's smallest river (the Rhoin) and some in newer additions.

We loved Burgundy and were especially happy with our stay at the very charming, $80 a night Hotel Belle Epoque. Easy walk to center and also an easy exit to countryside. Parking on premises. Fresh orange juice, strong coffee, excellent croisants, eggs, and lovely decor in breakfast room. Small quaint bar, and a very accommodating host. Read about it in an article in Wine Spectator. Don't miss La Rochepot castle in Burgundy...a short drive from Beaune.