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27-DAY ODYSSEY IN THE ALPS with 3 FINAL DAYS IN PARIS

27-DAY ODYSSEY IN THE ALPS with 3 FINAL DAYS IN PARIS

Old Jan 2nd, 2015, 03:55 PM
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Thanks for your encouragement, Maitaitom! Ready to post one more day's activities.
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Old Jan 2nd, 2015, 05:41 PM
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Saturday, September 6, 2014 MORNING IN LOCARNO,
THEN. . . ON TO BRIG


Up at 7AM. A picture-perfect day! Great for a delightful breakfast on the hotel’s outdoor patio, as the sun was already bright. A hotel employee knew we spoke English and, as we left, he tried to engage us with his limited knowledge of English. He pointed an index finger upward and said, “Blue upstairs”! It took us a second to realize that he was expressing that the sky was so blue. We totally agreed; it was an outstandingly beautiful day. Bellissimo!

TK made a trip with our luggage to the Opel in the nearby garage. The perfect weather really gave us a treat: a few more hours of enjoyment in Locarno. We decided to walk around the town, stopping to enter some of the stores along the arcade near our hotel. On our walk, MK found an attractive sweater at Charles Vogele store (39.95 CHF); more our price range than in St. Moritz!

We had a delightful experience in a Farmacia where TK finally bought shave crème (3.60 CHF). The owner, who spoke very little English, asked in Italian where we were from. We knew enough to understand him. “USA. . .Ohio”, we said. He replied excitedly, in Italian“, “I was in Cincinnati”. We were non-plussed!

People rarely know “Ohio”, much less “Cincinnati”. He had recently traveled to our city for the ATP Tennis Tournament. Roger Federer, a Swiss, had won; his daughter likes American, Andy Roddick…etc., etc. Mason, Ohio. Wow! This tournament was about 15 minutes from our home, and took place only a couple of weeks ago!

Similar to our encounter with the Swiss ladies on the boat to Ascona, we were able to communicate. In this case, it was our limited knowledge of Italian combined with hand gestures, which facilitated our pleasant encounter. This man was so excited telling us about his experiences, like a kid describing his visit to the circus. We were glad that TK still wanted that shave lotion!

We continued on down to the Piazza Grande, a large open cobble-stoned area, surrounded by pastel-painted houses, and many stores and restaurants. The Piazza Grande is the center of Locarno, used for concerts, festivals, and other events. In fact, in August it is the site of an International Film Festival when the piazza becomes a huge open-air screen area.

On this day, there was a collection of sleek Porsche racing cars! Crews were assembling stands. The piazza was a buzz of activity, with many people shopping in the stores, eating in the outdoor restaurants, and little kids playing nearby. We couldn’t pass up cappuccino at one of the delightful cafes along the Piazza Grande.

The day was just so gorgeous. . . .such brilliant blue sky and sunshine that the gardens and the embarcadero beckoned us for one last look. We couldn’t get enough of the colorful flowers and the shimmering lake! It must be beautiful to be in Locarno in March and April when their 100’s of varieties of camellias are in full bloom.

Finally, sadly, we had to check out of Hotel Garni du Lac (484 CHF). It was now close to noon. We had fun joking around with Stephanie Bufalino, the desk worker, whose family lives 5 kilometers from the DeBlasio family (mayor of New York). We were entertained by a few of her stories of unusual guests.

As we left Locarno, we were aware that the town and areas surrounding hold many more interesting things to explore: architectural beauty, gardens, lake trips to islands. But for this trip, it provided what we wanted: a Mediterrean climate on a beautiful lake. It is definitely a place for a return visit.

The route out of town seemed straightforward: “Centovalli”! “Signs are easy to follow; just watch out for the construction!”

The Centovalli, “100 Valleys” was truly “gorgeous”; however, as impressive as the gorges were, the pull-offs were few and far between. The Centovalli Road offer a variety of landscapes including not only breath-taking gorges, but sparkling waterfulls, high bridges, colorful fields, vineyards, and tiny villages.

The road was challenging as it was very fast-moving. Without warning, there would be very narrow spots or the road would go between a building and a rock wall, so narrow that it required concentration as one car had to stop to let another pass. Suddenly, narrow two-lane roads became one lane! Many motorcyclists and cars would whiz by and cut across lanes. They, obviously, knew this road! In fact, the girl at the TI in Locarno said that she drives it daily to and from work. In addition, it’s a popular road for bicyclists, which makes it essential to watch for them on the narrow, twisty roads.

We did make use of the pull-offs to take in the deep gorges along the route. As we were driving this outstanding road, across a wide valley we suddenly spotted what looked like a very large “bascilica-like” church. It just seemed incredible that such a structure could be in an area with mountains and valleys, and seemingly, few homes. Looking across the valley, the large dome was quite a grand spectacle!

As we continued on the Centovalli Road, the church appeared closer and closer, and we finally arrived in the very small town of RE where the church was located. We were in the Piemonte region, about 81mi. northeast of Turin. The church fronted the narrow road with room for only a few cars across the road. The edge was at that point, protected with a rock wall. From that vantage point there was a wide view across a beautiful green valley.

As we walked around, awed by this large church, we couldn’t help but notice groups of men, uniformly-dressed, standing around in little groups. Their outfits looked to us like “chimney sweeps”, (right out of Charles Dickens) and, as it turned out, that’s exactly what they were. Apparently, they have annual meetings where chimney sweeps from all over the world gather. In fact, we learned that in nearby SANTA MARIA MAGGIORE, population of only about 1200, there is a museum dedicated to “chimney sweeps”. In the past, they were critically important to the people of the area.

Quite a few of these costumed “chimney sweeps”, many with faces darkened with “soot”, were gathered in the only restaurant on the main road in this tiny town. It was aptly named BAR SANTUARIO, as the proper name of the bascilica, which is only a few paces from the restaurant, is “SANTUARIO DELLA MADONNA DI RE”. We decided to have lunch at this little outdoor café filled with these folks. The selections were minimal, but the experience made our panini and drinks a fun lunch. The chimney sweeps were a friendly group, and engaged us in conversation, as we were the only customers not dressed for the occasion. One gave MK a “souvenir” chimney sweep hat, and TK received a good luck coin!

Following lunch, we visited the magnificent SANCTUARIO, which was declared a “minor bascilica” in 1958 when a major expansion was completed. The original part was constructed at the beginning of the 1600’s. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary because of the belief that she worked a miracle in that spot.

The story, in brief, is that a local man who lived there in 1494 was so angry after he lost in a game, that he hurled a stone at the Virgin Mary fresco, hitting her head, whereupon it began to bleed; this continued for twenty days. This was supposedly verified by the mayor of the town and several notaries, who all signed a document attesting to the fact. From that time, people believed it to be a place of miracles.

The church later had quite an extensive expansion, designed by an architect from the Lombard area. Apparently, over many years this area was a favorite of painters, and has the name “Valle dei Pittori”. We wondered how there could be that many people to attend/support such a large church, as we passed relatively few homes as we traveled through the Centovalli.

We spent a while viewing the ornate and impressive interior with its architecture, and all the paintings and sculptures. On one wall was a large display of baby pictures with baptismal names and dates, each one trimmed with the traditional pink or blue. We noticed that the dates were very recent. There were so many pictures displayed high up the wall that required quite a tall ladder. So we could only conclude that this must be an active parish, and that there must be larger populations in the surrounding towns; maybe some which we might soon pass.

We followed the Centovalli Road to its conclusion, just north of Domodossola, and turned onto route 33. We then began the approach to the Simplon Pass, one link of Northern Italy with Switzerland. According to the books, this pass was first used as early as the Stone Age, and up to the 17th Century, by smugglers and mercenaries. Some time later, a Brig merchant prince, von Stockalper, began a trade to have salt from the Mediterranean transported, and thereby became immensely wealthy. But it was Napoleon who had laborers make it passable for vehicles. He wanted to move his cannons southward. Napoleon is credited with creating the first man-made road in the Alps. We find the history of these mountain passes in the Alps of interest.

As we began the ascent from Italy, the subtle change of architecture from the typical stone plate roofs of the Italian style to the timber buildings of the Swiss was evident. “Arrivederci, Italia!” After a couple of days by Lago Maggiore, encircled by mountains, but at somewhat of a distance from us, we were again in awe as we drove these roads with mountains in close range on either side. Really outstanding views, even more impressive than we had expected! The sunny, clear skies certainly enhanced the beauty. . . Wow!

The Simplon Pass Road was well-graded, which made the switchbacks seem more gentle than many we have experienced. We stopped for cappuccino before reaching the pass. When the owner saw us admiring the colorful flowers around the restaurant, he picked a nosegay of edelweiss and brought them over to MK.

At the summit, we made a stop at the MONTE LEONE for a dessert of apple and blueberry pie. The weather was so delightful that we didn’t want to leave our table on the outdoor patio.

Leaving the pass, we witnessed massive, snow-capped mountains, indicative of the beauty we would continue to experience. Stopping along the road, we could hear a concert of cow bells reverberating on the mountainside. After all, we were in Switzerland!

On the descent into the town of Brig, the road crosses a large, impressive, modern bridge, well-integrated with the surrounding countryside. After a series of lengthy downward curves, the road leads into the town of Naders, a neighboring town to Brig. As we’ve experienced in many towns, there are quite a few roundabouts leading into the town of Brig.

We successfully negotiated into Brig, but again, Gilda got mixed up. Our hotel is near the Schloss(palace) road, and Gilda couldn’t quite handle that, as she went into her “Re-calculating” mode. We knew that we were close, so we pulled over and asked an elderly lady (the only person we saw on the street). She understood “schloss” and using hand gestures, said very thoughtfully, “Uber wasser, ab rechts, gerade-aus.” We could follow that much German. And, sure enough, we found our hotel on a hill overlooking the Stockalper Schloss. The palace was named after the wealthy Prince Stockalper.

The room in the Schloss Hotel was exceptionally small and very dated; 60’s or early 70’s orange. But it had a nice balcony with a great view of the palace grounds and the surrounding mountains. We were impressed with the beauty of Brig, a major rail connecting point to parts of Switzerland.

After getting settled, we walked down the hill, passed the walled Palace grounds, through the historic old quarter, surrounded with restaurants and stores, to the Bahnhof. Our intention was to purchase some kind of Swiss Pass before we went to Zermatt and the BO. However, we found the office closed.

By this time, we were tired and hungry and chose the yellow-umbrella’d outdoor patio of the Hotel Du Pont, a very nice restaurant down the hill from our hotel, for a dinner of deliciously-prepared cannelloni and spaghetti with salad and drinks. The atmosphere was delightful. Returning to the hotel was just a stroll up the hill past the palace, which by this time, was so well lit that it would be visible from all around the town of Brig. Home about 9:30.

If it’s a clear day tomorrow, we’ll head for Zermatt. We hope!!!
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Old Jan 2nd, 2015, 07:55 PM
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What a fabulous trip (except for the driving, I was very envious!) Mountains, lakes, charming towns, my kind of holiday. Sorry about all the dreary weather earlier on, we were in Bavaria in July and had 12C, and rain most of the time, with a light snowfall on a mountaintop one day. Brilliant, given my youngest teen had never seen snow and the older one just the once. And it was all so spectacularly lush and green, we enjoyed walking in the rain (it was 43C here yesterday, so am really missing rain!) We also visited Hallstatt that trip, having seen a picture of it on an airline advertisement, my husband announced he wanted to go there, but we didn't know where it was. When I discovered it was Hallstatt, we added it to our itinerary from Salzburg, 2.5 hours of train travel and more rain on arrival, but, wow, what a setting. And then the rain stopped
We hope to visit the Dolomites next year. Really enjoying travelling 'with' you.
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Old Jan 3rd, 2015, 12:10 PM
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Adelaidean, so glad to have you traveling "with" us! It was a fabulous trip! But it does take time to complete a TR for a month-long venture, as each day we seemed to experience so much. Knowing that there are interested Fodorites like yourself following along gives us motivation to keep writing.

You mentioned the rain you experienced in Bavaria. One concern we had before leaving was knowing that Europe was having a chilly, rainy summer. We felt so fortunate to have so much good weather.

The Dolomites are beautiful. . .different from any other mountains we experienced. We hope your plans materialize.

Is your screen name indicative of your home. . .Australia?
Hope you get some relief from the heat! Send a little our way in the US Midwest!
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Old Jan 3rd, 2015, 12:49 PM
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Yes, pretty unoriginal (only just joined Fodor's) .... we are from Adelaide, South Australia. Heat and bushfires here

I imagine it is quite an effort to continue writing, and having read many unfinished reports I can see people lost the will to keep on posting...but so many more people read these reports, just don't post any responses (I am guilty, hence newly registered Fodor's member). So please don't give up!
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Old Jan 3rd, 2015, 06:09 PM
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Hi Tomarkot,

We're still along for the ride! I believe detailed trip reports like yours are an excellent resource for others planning their own trips and for people like us reliving some of our favorite places through your writing.

Paul
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Old Jan 3rd, 2015, 06:43 PM
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Me too. We are thinking about the Dolomites for next fall. I am really enjoying g your report.
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Old Jan 4th, 2015, 08:49 AM
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Paul, we appreciate your continued interest and insights. Your travels to most of these areas give you a good perspective. The interest of you and others continues to motivate us.

As "Football Playoffs" continue today, we'll use time in between to post another day or two.



Paqngo, glad to have you along. You won't be disappointed in the Dolomites, as Paul, pja1, above, will testify.
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Old Jan 5th, 2015, 05:03 PM
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SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 7, 2014 MATTERHORN DAY!

Up early. . .6:30 AM. Opening the doors of our balcony, we could hear a symphony of bells from the several churches in the area, and were happy to see a blue sky. Had a quick breakfast.

Then we were off. . .re-tracing our steps down the hill past the palace, through the Old Town, and to the Bahnhoff, hoping to purchase some kind of “Swiss Pass” which will give us a price break on trains, gondolas, etc.

The office was open! The line wasn’t too long! The lady behind the counter knew English well and helped us with the best deal we could get: 120 CHF each for the Swiss Half-Fare card; a month-long pass (the shortest time available). Fortunately, we did have our passports. Great! A big wonderment off our minds.

The morning’s blue skies and sun promised a beautiful day! So off we went. . .headed for Zermatt and the Matterhorn. We drove to the nearby city of Visp and then turned onto the mountainous road to Tasch. The switchbacks were mild and the scenery wonderful. . .we could see that in the distance the skies were blue with patches of white clouds.

We parked (13 CHF) in a garage connected to the very modern train terminal at Tasch. With our pass, we paid 100 CHF each for a combined roundtrip ticket: the train to Zermatt and the cog railway up the mountain to Gornergrat.

The train ride from Tasch to Zermatt is only about 12 minutes. The train terminus is right at the main square in Zermatt where we paused for cappuccinos and apple strudel, enjoying an initial view of the square. We had just enough time to make the 12:40 Gornergrat train up to the top, arriving about a half-hour later. We would save the exploration of the square until our return later in the afternoon.

The weather was perfect affording us a perfectly clear view of the Matterhorn, starting in Zermatt and all the way up. We knew from prior research to sit on the right side of the train to maximize our experience. We took lots of pics as we were lucky that the weather was so clear.

After reaching the final stop, the Gornergrat, we walked around station area for a while, drinking in the surrounding scenery. The highlight was the crystal clear view of the Matterhorn, distinctive with its pyramid shape! But along with the Matterhorn, there were many other mountain peaks and glaciers, the closest GRONER GLETSCHER. A great ski area!

It was lunch time, so we walked up to the outdoor restaurant KUHMHOTEL GORNERGRAT and found a “ringside” seat, looking directly at the Matterhorn. Sitting outside on the terrace, staring at the Matterhorn, enjoying our first tasty rosti with ham, topped with fried egg, ranked up there with top experiences. The employees were in great moods. They told us that only a few days before the whole terrace was steeped in snow. We were feeling incredibly fortunate to have this gorgeous day!

As we were enjoying our lunch, a few clouds appeared over the top. . . but beautiful white clouds. What’s not to love?
A beer/wine, with a tasty lunch, on a sunny patio, with brilliant blue skies, overlooking the impressive Matterhorn?
We sat for quite a while!

After that delightful lunch experience, we made a brief visit to the mountaintop shop, but with little success, as even t-shirts are 90+ CHF. . .Wow! We stopped in the little chapel, and walked around the Gornergrat area for a while.

At about 4 PM more white clouds were accumulating. We caught the return train for the ride back to the town center of Zermatt, having thoroughly enjoyed our Matterhorn experience at the Gornergrat. We reversed our seating on the train to the left side on the descent, as there was scenery to enjoy all the way.

The town of Zermatt has a large cobble-stoned square, surrounded by shops and restaurants, with a number of horse drawn carriages in the central area. Since there are no motorized vehicles permitted in Zermatt, these carriages, along with some battery-operated carts, deliver guests and their luggage to their lodgings. We walked around the Zermatt town square for a while, and couldn’t resist a stop for ice cream, chocolates, and a t-shirt for TK (29 CHF).

After the satisfying experience of the day, we were ready to begin the return train trip back to Tasch. Our car was easily retrieved from the garage, and the drive from Tasch to Brig was easy enough, taking just a bit more than an hour.

We freshened up in our hotel room and walked to the Altstadt for dinner. There were a few people milling around, but it was Sunday evening, so most stores, and some restaurants, were closed. We chose the outdoor RESTAURANT STEAKHOUSE and after a little vino, split a wiener schnitzel meal(41.40 CHF). We enjoyed our last stroll through the Altstadt and up the hill past the palace, again beautifully-lit, back to our hotel. Wonderful day! Good night!


MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 8, 2014 ON TO JUNGFRAU,
LAUTERBRUNNEN

Up at 7:15. Weather again looked great. Fruhstuck is normal. We packed the car and discussed our way out of Brig. Seemed like our hardest task was figuring out the streets and roundabouts to head to the key highway in the correct direction. We know Gilda isn’t very helpful in this area.

Following the absolutely amazing experience of the Matterhorn, we wonder how there can be so much phenomenal beauty still in store. But today we’re heading
to the Berner Oberland, or Jungfrau area. The anticipation on this trip continues!

Readying to leave Brig, we recalled a beautiful little city with an imposing Stockalper Palace reigning over it, towered over by mountains, and a cobble-stoned Altstadt area with many stores, restaurants, and bars, and a large Bahnhoff with multiple train lines. The best attribute of our SCHLOSS HOTEL was its location overlooking the palace and its gardens, and the hotel’s closeness to the Altstadt and the train station. The hotel offered free parking, WiFi, and a beautiful balcony to enjoy the surroundings.

As we were pulling out of the hotel lot, we met a British couple from New Castle, near Scotland. They described how they flew into Switzerland, took a bus/train to get places, with no rental car. They were staying in Brig, doing some hiking and biking. We had a delightful discussion about travel and other world issues.

Leaving town was somewhat confusing. We were aiming for a route A19, and not finding it, we did find a road that we thought was either A 19, or paralleled it. In any case, we knew that it was going in the correct direction. We followed it through a long valley surrounded by mountains with many ski lifts in the little towns. The road was good and the town names matched our map. For all we knew, we might have been on A 19, but we hadn’t seen a sign. Gilda was weird today and unable to direct us very well.

We followed the road for about thirty miles. It was getting to be lunch time. We were aiming for the Grimsel Pass Road. We came to a small, rather non-descript little area on the highway, a town named Gletsch. We saw a small station, and learned that it is the starting point for the Furka Steam Railway. As its name suggests, this train carries passengers over the steep Furka Pass.

Across the narrow highway from the station was a left-hand turn onto another narrow road, with a tall building on one side and the side of very old GRAND HOTEL GLACIER DU RHONE on the other; in other words, the road ran between two large buildings on the corner. This hotel, which we discovered had a self-serve lunch, fronted the highway which we were travelling.

Before getting our lunch, we walked across the narrow street to read the small sign: “Grimsel.” Glad we looked before proceeding on down the highway, because that turn on the side of the building was critical for us as we were heading to the Jungfrau area! Conclusion: the passes might be major, but the signage is very small!

We enjoyed our lunch on the outdoor patio with a panoramic view of the Rhone Glacier, the beginning of the Rhone River, and the Furka Pass, with its many winding switchback roads climbing up the mountain. That pass will have to wait for another trip as we are headed in an opposite direction.

Before taking off for the Grimsel Pass, we explored the reception area of the hotel which had the feel of an early 19th century lodging. Very old but charming! There is nothing else around, so we conclude that guests must stay there before catching the Furka Steam Railway or en route to another destination.

As we began the climb up to the Grimsel Pass, we found that the road, though having many switchbacks and some blind curves is better/wider/safer than other pass roads that we have encountered. We thought that our experience might be because we have driven so many mountain passes over the past couple of weeks that they no longer seemed as daunting.

The top of the Grimsel Pass is devoid of much vegetation, and is strewn with rocks and granite outcroppings. We stopped briefly for view of the lake atop the pass. As we descended on the northern side, the road passed a series of reservoirs, colored a milky green from the silt runoff from the glacier. Also, less-attractive elements were the hydro-electric plants!

The road then dropped steeply in a canyon sculpted with huge slabs of granite. Thick forests then came into view. Along the way we stopped for cappuccinos and met Marcus and Paul who ski in the surrounding areas. They suggested that rather than take the Jungfrau train though the miles of tunnels to reach Jungfrau, we would be better served by taking the lift to Schilthorn Mountain top where the Jungfrau can be viewed and the ride is spectacular.

From the conclusion of the Grimsel Pass Road, we began our drive northwestward through the town of Meringen and proceeded on to a two-lane highway that parallels the turquoise waters of the Brienz Lake near Interlaken. With the advantage of the clear blue skies, the lake looked stunning! We thought that we’d keep a boat trip on Brienz Lake or its neighboring Lake Thun in our “basket of ideas” for a possible activity while in the area.

The road into the Jungfrau area was well-signposted. We easily found our way into the heavenly valley of Lauterbrunnen. Unsure of the location of our hotel in this little town, we decided to drive the length of the valley which reminded us of Yosemite Valley.

As often occurred in these mountains, Gilda could not find the satellite. She was no help in finding our SILBERHORN HOTEL, which, we knew, was on a tiny side-street. We asked directions, and within minutes, were happy to find the small, hilly road curled around the rear of the bank, and up to our the Silberhorn Hotel.

Debra, the friendly receptionist, walked us up to our 4th floor room. We liked our room #40, with a nice balcony overlooking the valley. A complementary parking lot winds around the building and up the hill, with a rear entrance only steps to our room. Convenient for negotiating the luggage!

What better way to begin our enjoyment of the Jungfrau than a vino out on our balcony? After a while relaxing, and taking in the view of the valley, including a waterfall, we decided it was time for dinner. We walked down the hill from our hotel, and then up the main road to the OBERLAND HOTEL for a dinner of delicious Rosti and mixed salad, with beer, wine, choc chip ice cream & two cappuccinos. (59.26 US dollars). The outdoor patio was full, but we were seated at a nice table inside. At that point, we didn’t realize that we were lucky to have been seated, as we had no reservation and the Hotel Oberland seemed to have the reputation of the best restaurant in town.

On our walk back to the hotel, we saw the window of a WASH SALON, a laundromat, something we haven’t seen, but which we would now appreciate. It’s not far from our hotel; (5 CHF to wash and 5 CHF to dry). It closed at 21.00, so we hoped to take advantage of this. . .maybe early the following evening.

We’re contentedly tired after a full day, but we really felt good in Lauterbrunnen. Tomorrow the weather was promising and the TV in the lobby, which has live coverage of 4 mountain peaks, will allow us to check conditions and make plans for the day as we eat fruhstuck.

Debra, the receptionist, had the same suggestion as the two guys we met near the Grimel Pass; that is, visit the Schiltorn instead of taking the train to the Jungfraujoch. Their idea is that the 360’ views are tremendous and the cost is a lot less.

At this point, we are still mulling over the ideas! But we’re happy that we have three nights in the area, with an additional night in nearby Grindelwald.
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Old Jan 5th, 2015, 07:16 PM
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Tomarket: I'm just catching up with this superior trip. Well done, all around. I have to go back and read more so I can now follow along thru Switzerland and to Paris! Thanks for the ride, and yes, I'm glad I'm not driving also!
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Old Jan 5th, 2015, 10:58 PM
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Sounds lovely. On my bucket list....
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Old Jan 6th, 2015, 12:07 AM
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Just now catching up with your report tomarkot - as we just got back from our three weeks in Germany and Switzerland at 2 am this morning, greeted with Perth's hottest January day since 1991 (111 degrees F), which I'm sure Adelaidean can fully appreciate!

Enjoyed your impressions of Locarno, as we almost chose it for this trip, but, being mountain people, it lost out to the Gstaad area.

Glad you found the Hotel Oberland, our favorite restaurant in Lauterbrunnen...and that Laundromat...the only one of its kind I've ever found in Switzerland in our 8-10 visits, with the added bonus of having machines we actually recognize and know how to operate (the stories I could tell you about Eruopean washing machines...)

Anxiously awaiting more.
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Old Jan 6th, 2015, 07:06 AM
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Great descriptions! We also did the Gornergrat trip, but we stayed 2 nights in Zermatt. Also, from the top station, we walked back down towards Zermatt quite a bit before boarding the train for the rest of the way back. Looking forward to the BO, as we spent 4 wonderful days and nights based in Wengen.

Paul
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Old Jan 6th, 2015, 09:59 AM
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tomarkot, I'm just seeing this report for the first time. What a wonderful trip and report! I haven't finished the report but will read more tonight.

I have been to many of the places you visited, albeit on several trips, and am enjoying the ride with you. Thanks for reviving so many memories of beautiful places!
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Old Jan 6th, 2015, 02:43 PM
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Thanks to all for your interest!

Melnq8 and Adelaidean, we feel for you guys in Perth. . .and South Australia. Hope you get some relief soon!!!

Melnq8, you're probably feeling the heat even more after spending three weeks in milder weather. Can't imagine your posting when you just arrived home! Hope you had a wonderful trip. We'll be watching for your TR.


Paul, your experiences in Zermatt sound like fun. We were just so happy to have good weather to enjoy the Matterhorn and surroundings. On a former trip, the whole area of northern Italy and into Switzerland was so fogged in that it put a real crimp in our enjoyment. We decided to stay two nights in Brig just in case of inclement weather. . .more to do there. No hiking shoes along this trip!


Panecott and Taconictraveler, glad to have you aboard.

Panecott, we remember enjoying your fairly recent TR of the Canadian Rockies.
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Old Jan 6th, 2015, 06:04 PM
  #76  
 
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Jetlag
Melnq8 is offline  
Old Jan 6th, 2015, 07:24 PM
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Melnq8, thought about your gruelingly long flights-that you might be totally exhausted and out of commission. Can't imagine how we'd feel! Hope that you get adjusted to your time zone soon; no doubt staying 24/7 in A/C! We would gladly take about 50' of your heat! It's in the 20's in the US Midwest.
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Old Jan 7th, 2015, 08:03 PM
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TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2014

Up at 7AM. Weather didn’t look so great. We enjoyed our first breakfast spread in their attractive dining room, and for the first time in our weeks of travel, encountered three or so American families.

After that satisfying meal, albeit with the skies outside looking very cloudy. The inclement weather was later confirmed by TV monitors of four mountains with live cameras at their peaks. We talked to a British couple who had visited Lauterbrunnen several times. They were also watching and deciding what to do. Rain was predicted and the mountaintops were cloudy already at 9 AM. For about a half-hour, we had a lively conversation with this engaging couple, perhaps each of us hoping that we could gradually see some hints of clearing.

After another hour or so, we had all but given up hope for a clear day. Although disappointed, with the string of beautiful weather days we’ve had, we guessed that we were due for a rainy one. We knew that today would not be the day to fully appreciate all the beauty surrounding us in this valley bounded by gigantic rock faces, mountain peaks, and innumerable water falls.

We began to evaluate a trip to Interlaken for a lake cruise; Brienz, the east lake or Thun, the west lake? The daytime desk attendant lives near Interlaken. He described the drive to the west boat station, then the boat ride to Thun, which he preferred, but which takes 2 ½ hours; and suggested taking the train back to save time. We decided that it was too late to start out on such a time-consuming venture, and that the inclement weather would not make for the most pleasant boat trip.

Maybe do a waterfalls adventure? Nah! We decided to drive to Steckelberg, a 4 km. drive to the end of the valley, park in the lot there (4 CHF), and catch the gondola, the Schilthornbahn, to Murren (21 CHF).

On our drive down the valley, we enjoyed the lengthy waterfalls cascading down the rock faces. The small town of MURREN is situated on a mountain ledge overlooking Lauterbrunnen. Since it wasn’t raining, just overcast, we thought we could enjoy the view from the cable car ride overlooking the Lauterbrunnen Valley, have lunch in Murren, and walk the streets of this little town so recommended by Rick Steves.

There were just a handful of us on the gondola, so the 360’ views over the Lauterbrunnen Valley and surrounding mountains were available to us as we could move around the cable car. We asked the operator for a restaurant recommendation in Murren, and he suggested the RESTAURANT STAGERSTUBLI which he said was in the middle of town.

The ride up to Murren included a stop at the small hamlet of Gimmelwald. Once reaching Murren, we found that the town was very quiet, with only a handful of people milling around, and most restaurants and shops were closed. We did have lunch at the Restaurant Stagerstubli, the place recommended by the gondola operator, as it was the only restaurant open. Wienerschnitzel, salad and drinks; (40.90 USD).

We walked the length of the deserted main street, and spent a while overlooking the valley below and the mountains on the opposite side. Even though the skies were overcast, the views were still so amazing. The cows on the mountainside were enjoying the experience with us! Every few seconds, we would be entertained by some tunes from their bells!

It was now after 3 PM. We continued our walk down the only street in Murren and discovered that the HOTEL BLUMENTAL was now open. . .and that they served capuccinnos. We were the only patrons in this very nice restaurant, which was a recommendation by Rick Steves, as noted on a sign in front.

We had exhausted our choices in Murren, so we decided to walk back to the gondola station. The return ride to the valley was the opposite of our 360' experience coming up this AM when only one other couple and a worker joined us. The cable car down was jam-packed. . .possibly a tour group coming from Gimmelwald? The gondola was now so crammed with riders that it was difficult to enjoy much of a view.

Driving back to the center of Lauterbrunnen, a light rain began to fall. We paused a few times to take in the views of the valley, with waterfalls streaming down the rock faces. Beautiful even in a light drizzle!

We immediately headed to the Wash Salon, aka Laundromat, and spent the next couple of hours completing laundry…5 CHF for wash cyle and 5 CHF for the dryer. In the process of completing this task, we met a nice couple from Jupiter, FL, who were on a Rick Steve’s tour. They had gone up to Jungfrau on the “Good Morning Fare” and said that the weather was clear. They thought that the ride was scenic and not just all tunnels, and that the experience was well worth it.

While accomplishing this necessary but mundane task, we took turns alternating laundry duty with checking out the shops; most important, the wine store. Fortunately, our balcony had an overhang which made it enjoyable, even in a light rain, to imbibe our wine and the beauty of the valley.

We wanted to have dinner at our hotel restaurant, but discovered that the main dining room was booked with “½ pension guests”. The only available tables would be in a “back room” which lacked the elegant atmosphere of the main room.

We again tried the Hotel Oberland that we liked last evening, but they were full at 7:20 and told us that only 8:30 would work. Finally, success at HOTEL STABBACH! We sat on their outdoor patio, and even though the service was slow, we enjoyed a well-prepared rosti with ham and a Swiss cheese along with mixed salad; drinks, of course. (36.50 CHF).

The waitress at the Hotel Staubach Restaurant seemed to take an interest in us, and when we described our dilemma over the choice between Jungfraujoch and Schilthorn, she advised us to go for the Jungfraujoch. It might be a one-time thing, but she thought we should experience it. She advised us to go early before the tours would arrive and the trains would get crowded. "Sometimes people have to stand," she cautioned.

Back at our hotel, we were discussing plans for the morning. We decided that since this was our first trip to the Berner Oberland, and we had a Swiss ½ fare pass, we would go for the Jungfraujoch venture. . . if the weather looked promising. We thought that it might prove to be another “highlight” of our Alps’ experience. We set the alarm for an early rising, and went to bed hopeful.


WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 TRIP TO
JUNGFRAUJOCH

Up extra early: 6 AM! Skies looked cloudy at first glance, but a bit of sun (and hope) appeared at a second glance. “Let’s go for the Jungfraujoch!”

We opened the 7:30 breakfast and chose a window seat overlooking the Jungfrau. Directly after breakfast, we collected the stuff needed for the day. Taking the short-cut path, located right across from the hotel’s front door, we had a quick walk down the hill to the train station. Tickets cost 176.20 CHF each.

With tickets in hand, we boarded the 8:37 rack train to Wengen. The route up began with the gold-colored cog railway chugging up to its first stop, Wengen. We had seen this train wend its way up the mountain quite a few times from our balcony as we were sipping wine.

On the ascent, we enjoyed an amazing, sunny view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley and surrounding mountains, passing several waterfalls cascading down the sides close to the track. Upon reaching the Wengen Station, where people were getting off and on, we would continue to Kleine Scheidegg. We decided to save our exploration of Wengen for our return trip in the afternoon.

It was amazing how many “hikers” exited at Wengen, and many of them were not “spring chickens”. (TK’s observation!) Many had walking poles and backpacks. They seemed to know their way around these mountains very well. One couple, who continued on from Wengen, described their plans of taking a cable car from Kleine Scheidegg over a small saddle in the mountain, hiking a bit, having lunch at a location they liked, and then taking another cable car to a railroad and getting back to Lauterbrunnen, having made a full circle. More things for us to pursue on a return visit.

Kleine Scheidegg is the boarding point for the famous Jungfraujoch Railway, described by some as the most famous mountain railway in the world. Opened in 1912, this cog railway leads to the highest underground railway station in Europe.

We were able to secure a window seat on the right side of the train for the long, slow ascent. For the first part of the journey, we took a number of photos. The next part of the trip was through a 7.3 km long tunnel that traverses the massive wall of Eiger.

The train made two five-minute stops on the way up. Passengers could get off the train, and walk out to “windows” which were carved out in the mountain wall, providing outstanding views. Especially impactful was looking straight down a wall of ice into the valley of Grindelwald.

En route through the tunnel, a video played, explaining the history of the tunnel and the construction of the station at the top. The idea for this highest underground mountain railway, constructed by boaring through the Eiger and Monch Mountains, was the goal of a man named Adolf Guyer-Zeller. His original intention was to have the train climb to the highest lookout platform, named “the Sphinx”. This ambitious project was begun in 1896. It was plagued by inclement weather, numerous accidents, and budgetary issues. Final completion was to the base of the Jungfraujoch, (11,333ft.) short of the “Sphinx”, but a monumental feat of engineering!

We arrived at the Jungfraujoch after about 2 hours. Upon arrival at the underground station, we exited into what felt like a combination of a subway station and an enormous “entertainment complex”. There was an array of colored arrows pointing to the various sections on several levels. Initially, we walked through an “Ice Palace”, a network of ice tunnels and caves filled with imaginative sculptures. The whole area had a greenish glow, and was very cold. The temperature prepared us for our next experience at the outdoor viewing area: the highlight of the venture. Quite an outstanding place, even though some clouds interfered with what could have been a crystal-clear view.

We found our way to a little café for a cappuccino break where the windows would allow us to keep our eyes on the outdoors. As we were sipping our drinks, the “magic” happened, as the sun burned off the fog and we had a magnificent view of the surrounding peaks! We took multiple pictures. MK wanted pics of us together with the Jungfrau in the background. A good-spirited Frenchman patiently took a few shots to get the Jungfrau centered between us. A young girl who took our picture wanted us to pose with her and two friends for another shot.

It was delightful and fulfilling to have a wonderful weather- day like this. Our choice for lunch, the CRYSTAL RESTAURANT, was more pricey than the other choices, but our window seat provided a tremendous atmosphere for our meal! We shared a wienerschnitzel and salad, plus drinks (47.80 ). Our waiter was a cool man from Hong-Kong who seemed well-traveled. He told us that he had many friends in the USA. No one was waiting in the line to be seated, so we continued to enjoy our view for a few extra minutes.

After that tasty lunch, we again headed outdoors to the viewing area for more enjoyment of the jagged peaks of Eiger, Monch, Jungfrau, and other mountains: an awe-inspiring wide alpine panorama. A Swiss flag was flowing in the breeze, adding a meaningful note of color to some of our pictures.

One of the most tempting attractions of the Jungfraujoch was the LINDT TOP OF EUROPE CHOCOLATE WORLD, the world’s highest chocolate shop. It would be difficult to sense the sweet aromas of chocolate wafting through the building without making a stop. . .and purchasing some of their delicacies. To whet the appetites, as if that were necessary, they were giving complementary LINDOR balls. Mmmmmmm Good!

None of the Swiss sights we visited were devoid of gift shops. It was the same with the Jungfraujoch. TK bought another 29 CHF t-shirt. Purchasing these is really encouraged by MK, as they provide needed clothing changes as we travel.

As clouds began to roll in, obscuring part of the panoramic view, we felt very satisfied, having had a wonderful Jungfraujoch experience. Since we had gotten a fairly early start in the morning, we thought it might be a good idea to catch the railway down before the trains crowded up. But before making our way to the boarding area, we made sure to have our “Jungfrau Railways Passport” officially stamped.

Our wait for the cog railway was relatively short, and after boarding and securing a good seat, each of us succumbed to some “shut-eye” during the first tunneled part of the journey. Exiting the dark tunnel, we were happy to see that the weather at the lower altitudes was still clear.

We switched trains in Kleine Scheidegg, and caught the second train to the little car-free town of Wengen. We got off in Wengen, checking the time-schedule for later catching a return train to Lauterbrunnen.

There were very few people milling around Wengen. After spending a while strolling around the town, checking out the shops, we stopped at a little café for our cappuccino break. We enjoyed our little exploration of Wengen, but after our cappuccinos, we were happy to return to our hotel in Lauterbrunnen.

The trains leave for Lauterbrunen at 03 and 33 after the hour. These trains are very precisely coordinated. There is essentially one track up the mountains, but multiple double track parking areas where a train stops to wait for another train, before it can use the same track. The trains leave at precisely the time that the schedule prints they will leave…impressive! So we caught the 4:33 train and were back in Lauterbrunnen just before 5 PM.

Since our Hotel Silberhorn is very close to the Railway Station, we have only a short walk back and ample time to freshen up for dinner and relax on our balcony for a while. This evening we do have 7PM reservations, arranged through Debra, at the HOTEL OBERLAND, having learned the value of reservations. (Although not our usual style.)

We used a ”discount card”, received from our hotel, for a 3-course meal for 31 CHF: rosti and mixed salad; dessert, and drinks. Total 58.60 CHF. We thoroughly enjoyed our last dinner in Lauterbrunnen.

Just before we left the Hotel Oberland Restaurant, there was a brief light shower. As we stepped out, it was about 60 degrees. The street was fairly quiet, and we needed to return to our hotel to pack, load up the car, and prepare to leave the likeable Hotel Silberhorn the following morning.

We were hoping to take the Schilthornbahn, the world’s longest aerial cable car system, the following day , weather-permitting. We aimed to turn in early, after getting organized for our last day in Lauterbrunnen. As on most nights, as we went to bed, we were hoping to awaken to a good weather day.

One positive thought, while regretting having to leave Lauterbrunnen, was our reservation in Grindelwald for the following evening. More time to enjoy the Berner Oberland!
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Old Jan 7th, 2015, 08:29 PM
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Now you're speaking my language.

We visited both the Cailler factory and the Lindt factory within the last two weeks and I just about broke my arms hauling the stuff home.

No directions necessary; just step off the train and follow your nose.

If only I liked broccoli as much as I like chocolate.
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Old Jan 7th, 2015, 11:47 PM
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Always glad to come home and find an update! Sounds lovely.
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