24 hours in bratislava
 

I am planning a 24 hours stop over in Bratislava on our way from Vienna to Budapest. My idea is to go from Vienna to Bratislava by a ferry or boat in the morning of August 29, and leave to Budapest from Bratislava by train the following morning, August 30th. I have several questions:
1.- Is it doable and enjoyable?
2.- Do I need to reserve boat and train tickets in advance?.
3.- Where in Bratislava does the ferry arrive?
4.- I see 2 train stations in Bratislava's map. From which one does the train to Budapest depart?
Any comments, advice or recommendation are very much welcome.

Hi O,

For train schedules see www.bahn.de

((I))

Bratislava hlavná stanica (abbreviated Bratislava hl.st) is the main station near the town center and though trains to Budapest also leave from another station across the river from the old town center this one has more trains and generally faster ones - not sure about hyrdos but trains can be bought on spot though you best reserve in advance for possible cheaper fares - but you can always get on these trains on walk-up basis. Hydrofoils dock right in old town center. For lots on booking own tickets online check www.seat61.com; general info trains BETS-European Rail Experts and www.ricksteves.com. If taking taxi to train station doesn't matter which one you use.

From the train station you need to take a taxi or a 15-minute-or-so walk into the old town, which is really the part you want to see. You will be stopped at the gates to the American Embassy and asked a few questions; then you pass into the old town, which is where you want to spend your time. YES! 24 hours is well worth it in Bratislava. I heartily wished we had cut short our time in Budapest and spent more time there. It is beautiful, full of cultural treasures, has a great café and restaurant culture, and friendly people. Do take the kind of hokey old tourist shuttle around town from the main square and listen to the narrative for a good overview of its history. Do check out local posters for advertisements for musical and other events - we saw Gregorian chants and other musical wonders in only one night there. Do wander at night on the old, twisty alleys and stop in unlikely bars and cafés for an otherworldly experience.

From Hlavná stanica to the Old Town:

• Bus line 93: Exit at the 2nd stop "Hodzovo nam." next to the presidential palace or the 3rd stop "Zochova", and go through the underpass by foot into the centre.
• Tram line 1: Exit at the stops "Postová" or "Kapucínska". When returning to the station, exit at the "Safarikovo nam." stop next to Eurovea or "Namestie SNP" next to the pedestrian area.
• On foot: Approximately 15 minutes' walk to the city centre.

StCirq, is the "You will be stopped at the gates to the American Embassy and asked a few questions; then you pass into the old town..." a new feature? We were visiting with friends who live in Bratislava just a couple of weeks ago and had dinner across from the embassy, but were not stopped and questioned.

I don't know, fourfortravel. Our experience was a year ago. We were in a taxi that was not allowed to enter the city at the entrance by the American Embassy, so we had to exit the taxi. Guards at the embassy asked for our passports and questioned what we were planning to do, where we were staying, etc. It wasn't threatening at all, and they were friendly.

Perhaps only suspicious types are stopped?

Not sure why anyone would get stopped at the American Embassy there. Slovakia is part of the EU, which allows free travel. And, the U.S. certainly has no interest in border security there. Sounds like a confused taxi driver. We were there three years ago, walked to the old town from the rail station; it took 20-30 minutes, and we took a taxi back. Had no idea, and no reason to, where the US Embassy was located. You can easily "do" Bratislava in a day. We have been to more interesting places.

Stcirq, I'm interested in your comment about Budapest vs Bratislava. Both of these cities are on my radar. How long would you recommend for Budapest?

It was not a "confused taxi driver." There was no entryway into Bratislava at this point. The old city was closed off to everyone. By gates. We were among dozens who had to be "dropped off" outside the city limits. When we left Bratislava the next day, also by taxi, we had to be sure to "clear" the area by the American Embassy and wait for the taxi on the street beyond it to find the taxi.

5alive, I know my opinion is not popular, but we found Budapest depressing, sour, and woefully undeveloped as a river town. It reminded me of Berlin in 1983. The synagogue was stupendous and haunting, but the main "shopping street" in Pest was a cliché of quiet desperation to make some money off cheap goods, the food was dumbed down for tourists, the walkways along the river were treacherous, the main acclaimed public baths were slippery and dirty, and the entire city seemed covered in a big frown, barely covered by a simulated smile to attract tourists. We thought we might escape with a trip to the highly touted Margarets Island, but it's a wasteland of constuction and communal sports facilitiies. Of all the very many places we have traveled to in Europe since moving here, Budapest stands out as our very least favorite.

We were there for 7 nights, BTW. It's not as though we didn't explore and try to like the place.

For those not familiar with Bratislava, the US Embassy sits along the historic Hviezdoslavovo námestie, a popular boulevard with restaurants (there are also three other embassies in the immediate area). In the last year or so there has been discussion (sometimes heated, and occasionally with a protest) about a security perimeter fence that the US erected around the building. Perhaps something was happening during St.Cirq's visit that prompted heightened security, but that isn't the status quo. All told I have been to Bratislava more than a dozen times in the last year to visit friends or take in an exhibit, attend an event, or something; the most recent a couple of weeks ago, and each visit was without issue.

Just my €0,02. Bratislava and Budapest can be what you make of them. I like Bratislava in small doses (one overnight at most). I like Budapest for long weekends. Then again, I live in Vienna and have the luxury of dropping in on the neighbors for whatever length of time I wish. This said, if I were visiting both for the first time and wanted an introductory sense of each city, 2 nights/1.5 days in Bratislava and 3 nights/2.5 days in Budapest would suit me. If forced to spend a week in either I would be seeking field trips by day 3. The Old Town in the former and Obuda in the latter, I find, are terribly Instagrammable; Bratislavsky Hrad is commanding at night, but it does not compare to the view of Parliament at night when one emerges from the Batthyany Ter Metro. If you hang out in the tourist areas you'll suffer from tourist food; we have to work a little harder to escape the chichi-mhicy "upscale" ruin bars in Budapest, but Bratislava has experienced a gastronomic renaissance of sorts with their traditional dishes as well as international cuisine.

I suspect Stcirq's experience was in relation to a surge in immigration.

I know that Bratislava is in Slovakia, but I had a similar example when I went to Czech Republic and Austria in 2015. Going into Austria wasn't a problem. But returning from Vienna, there were armed soldiers at the Czech border. They looked briefly into our car and then waved us on. This was in relation to immigration through Greece and into Europe.

Stcirq and Four, I value both your opinions. Thanks for your thoughts.

I was just in Bratislava last month. You can definitely enjoy a visit of just 24 hours. I had three days/nights and was glad I had at least two, but the historic center is very small and can easily be seen in your time frame. On our 'extra' day we went to Devin Castle ruins but that is a half hour or so bus in each direction (plus some walking) so you need several hours for that.



We walked in both directions to/from the train station (hlavná stanica). It's about 15-20 minutes and boring, but flat and with a nice wide sidewalk so easy enough to do. When you get to the old town you go through St Michael's Gate but it's not what I think of as an 'underpass'. I was there three days and don't even know which building the American Embassy was in, St Cirq's experience was probably just a fluke as happens occasionally but not anything to worry about.



We stayed at APLEND CITY Hotel Michalsk which is right next to St Michael's gate and I highly recommend it. Trains from Vienna are about hourly and you don't need advance tickets. I don't know about the boat tickets, but the boats dock in the center, so easy walk to any hotel in the historic center if you arrive by boat.



I visited Budapest on a previous trip and had a whole week there and wasn't bored, it's a much larger city. But doesn't have the 'charm' of Bratislava. I think most people would be happy with 3-4 days there.