Day 11 - Thank You Clouds, Fun Funicular, Todi Fields, The Most Livable City In The World, What ... Another Wedding, We’re Alarmed, The Town Where Everything Is Uphill, San Francesco Open Your Golden Vaults, Hot Time In The Old Church Today, Dem Bones And Getting Sauced Without Alcohol

I don’t what got in to me during dinner the previous evening, but I told the troops since the weather reports were predicting it would be a lovely day, we could spend the following day relaxing by the pool. Fortunately for me (and not for them) weather forecasters in Italy suck just as much as they do in the U.S. We woke up to cloudy, ominous-looking skies.

The faces of Tracy, Kim and Mary told me they knew what was coming. “Since the weather isn’t conducive to sun-bathing, let’s hit the road.” Luckily, they didn’t hit me.

After blood orange juice, three cappuccinos and a plethora of rolls at La Badia, we were on our way. I had read that the little town of Todi had been voted “The Most Livable City In The World” by some University of Kentucky poll, and its main square, the Piazza del Popolo was considered “one of the most beautiful squares in Italy.” How could we pass that up?

Parking below the city, we took the fun funicular up to town, and to no one’s surprise Todi was a very cute town. The square has the requisite Duomo that dates from the 12th century, but we couldn’t enter because mass was being performed.

Because a dozen rolls hadn’t sufficiently filled us up, we stopped by a bakery and ordered some vanilla-filled pastry that turned the trick. We walked around the town, took in some panoramic views of the fields and hillsides, and headed back down the funicular, so we could head toward our next destination.

As we exited the funicular dozens of people were waiting to get on, including one woman who looked suspiciously like a bride (the wedding dress was a dead giveaway).

When we parked, we got a green casino-like chip that was not to be used for gambling, but for exiting the lot. When we put that chip into the automated parking machine, an alarm started blaring loudly. Yes, it helps if we had actually paid before inserting the chip. Live and learn!

About a half hour’s drive from Todi was Assisi, and I’m guessing it still is. Located on a hill, Assisi is quite striking from the bottom. Instead of a funicular, an escalator took us up to town from Parking Lot B.

First things first, it was time for lunch, where I ordered another my favorites, prosciutto e melone. Now it was time to further explore the town.

Built over the tomb of Saint Francis of Assisi, Basilica di San Francesco is really two churches in one (lower and upper). Both churches have gorgeous frescoes, and we started in the lower one where we visited the tomb of St. Francis.

By now, the day had turned quite warm, and it was very, very hot (and very, very crowded) in the lower church, however it was well worth the visit. The lower church contains many various, beautiful chapels with frescoes, some in better shape than others.

Although damaged by the 1997 earthquake, the upper church is amazing to witness having been magnificently restored. The frescoes detail 28 scenes from the life of St. Francis (Kim’s favorite saint ... his middle name is Francis). They were as Tracy wrote, “marvelous.”

Afterward, we strolled through Assisi, another of a number of hill towns that magically have no streets that go downhill (or so it seems).

We stopped in Basilica di Santa Chiara, the Gothic church that contains the bones of St. Clare. We also saw the crucifix (Speaking Cross), which supposedly gave St. Francis the message to “go forward and rebuild my house.” We thought about walking even further up to Rocca Maggiore, but are legs suddenly all went on strike.

Note: We returned to Assisi in 2005. Once again we didn’t make it up to the Rocca. Our legs have good memories.

It was late in the afternoon when we returned to La Badia, and happy hour took place out by the pool. Getting ready for dinner, unlike the previous day, Mary decided not to set her hair on fire.

We took our seats in the room with the fire pit and enjoyed another delicious meal. Tracy’s pepper steak had (in her words), “one of the most incredible pepper sauces I have ever tasted.”

A light rain fell as we walked across the courtyard to our rooms, making this special place place seem even more magical.

A good night’s rest was required because after a short morning visit to Orvieto and its stupendous Duomo, we had a long trip ahead that would take us south to the “Death Drive” on our way to the Amalfi Coast and our home in Positano.

Next: Days 12 & 13 - Kim Takes It In The Shorts, Dazzling Cathedral, It’s Not THAT Dangerous, Upgrade, Overpriced, Tenderfoot, Getting Our Steps In, Don’t Eat The Leaves, Breakfast In Paradise, Tanning Time, It Looks More Dangerous From Here, Not A Gem Of A Grotto, Miracoli, Dinner In The Hills, Loutish Lawyer and In The Kitchen With Mama

What the heck! I have nothing else to do, so let’s finish this up. Dang, we were young. I know it usually takes me a long time to write a trip report … but seven years?

We bid a fond farewell to what is now called in 2020 La Badia di Orvieto (it was Hotel La Badia when we visited). We loved our stay there, including the dinners. It looks like the hotel gets more mixed reviews today, but still mostly good.

Before heading to the Amalfi Coast and Positano, we were going to stop by the clifftop town of Orvieto. When we met Kim and Mary for breakfast, I noticed he was wearing shorts. “You might want to rethink that. You might not get in the Duomo in shorts, “ I told him. “I’ll take my chances,” he replied.

It was a ten-minute drive up to the parking area for Duomo di Orvieto. Wow, what a sight! The exterior of the cathedral looks like it could be part of the interior. It’s covered with sculptures, stained glass and brightly colored mosaics. As feared, Kim was denied entry, thus “taking it in the shorts.”

We found out that the cathedral dates all the way back to the late 13th century and honored the Miracle of Bolsena. That event touched off the papal bull of 1264, which, in turn, created the feast of Corpus Christi, the holiday that messed up our visit to the cathedral in Sevilla, Spain, 14 years later when we were unable to see the famed retablo because of the celebration of Corpus Christi.

The highlight of the Duomo di Orvieto is the mesmerizing La cappella di San Brizio. The frescoes in this room overwhelm the senses. It has been called “one of the most significant instances of Italian Renaissance painting.”

The frescoes were so beautiful I took a photograph. Oops, before the shutter stopped I was reprimanded quite sternly. “No photography!!!” I was surprised I didn’t get a ruler to the knuckles.

We met up with Kim outside, told him he should have worn long pants and it was off to the Amalfi Coast, and the town of Positano. The drive would take a little more than three hours.

(Mai Tai Note: I thought I did extensive planning back then, but really this was still in the era where you faxed a hotel for reservations and not a lot of travel info was offered by the internet). Had I known all there was to do in Orvieto, we would have spent at least another day exploring that cute town … we hope to return.

Of course, we had been warned about the dangerous Amalfi Coast drive, where busses come hurtling toward you, and you face certain death at every turn. At least, that’s what I had been told.

Fortunately, at least this part of the Amalfi drive was a snap. There were a couple of close calls with tour busses, but luckily we passed each other at slow speeds, and soon we were at our hotel’s parking garage.

I had booked a hotel long before we left, however a few days before we departed I received a fax (remember them?) stating it was closed for renovations. Instead, they booked us at another hotel at the same price. The Covo Dei Saraceni is located steps from the beach with stupendous views of the Bay and town of Positano. I think our room had more square footage than the first house I purchased.

We had lunch at Chez Black, which, for the price, wasn’t worth it.

Afterward, we took a little stroll along the beach past numerous brightly colorful boats.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e2912a0ab.jpg

Although Tracy was nearly taken out to sea by a tsunami, we successfully completed our walk.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4b325ceac3.jpg

Kim and Mary went back to their room, happy in the fact that I hadn’t killed them on the Amalfi drive, while Tracy and I decided to walk around (and up) in Positano.

We checked out the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (yes, lots of churches even back then). It dates back to the 13th-century, and the church dome is covered with tiles.

Inside, I had received a tip to see the Altar of the Circumcision. There is also a black Madonna, which supposedly was given to the town by pirates, Sadly, I don't remember seeing it. We've seen a couple of others in our journeys.

Tracy and I also discovered the “stairs of Positano.” What we found was that there must be a million of them. Had Fitbit been invented at that time, I believe we would hold the record for combination of steps and floors climbed.

There are also long and winding roads we could have taken, but since that wasn’t my favorite Beatles’ song, we just let it be.

Back at the hotel, we took one of our patented 12-minute naps before meeting Kim and Mary on our balcony for a glass or three of wine.

We then wandered (upward, of course) and found a cute, little restaurant, whose name is lost to time and bad note taking. The food and drinks were very, very good.

I do remember Tracy ordered an Insalata Mista wih fried mozzarella with lemon leaves. Our waiter made sure to tell Tracy, “Do not eat the lemon leaves.”

My favorite concoction was a drink called a Positano Orange; fresh squeezed orange juice, gin, Grenadine and crème de menth. At the end of the meal, the owner not only showed me how to make it (a recipe also lost to time), but gave me the drink on the house.

As cool as that dining experience was, the following night’s dinner would end up with me in the restaurant kitchen, and i didn’t even have to wash dishes.

The following morning we enjoyed a breakfast for the ages.. As Mary recalled, “a five star spread of pastries, muffins, potatoes, eggs, meats, rolls and small pots of very hot, very strong coffee with steamed milk.” After a few of those coffees I was ready to roll. But roll to where?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0290d1f23a.jpg

Once again, we climbed the now daunting to our bodies stairs until one of us (and I’m sure it wasn’t me), said, “Why don’t we relax by the pool.”

Relaxing is not my forte, but this was our first international trip with Kim and Mary, so we didn’t want to scare them off for future travels. We spent much of the early afternoon lounging by the pool, sipping Cointreau martinis and soaking up the sunshine. However, one can only relax so much!

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...098dd511eb.jpg

Kim and Mary went to their room, while Tracy and I hopped on a small boat, which would take us out to one of the cheesiest, yet funniest, experiences in our travels.

The boat ride itself was marvelous. Looking up at the Amalfi Highway from the sea, it looked a helluva lot more dangerous than the portion we drove. The dilapidated bridges were cause for concern, as well. We also passed by the house where our captain/tour director said Italian director Franco Zeffirelli owns a house.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9004a99f28.jpg

We then entered the Emerald Grotto. We thought we would be in for one of the experiences of our lifetime. The Blue Grotto near Capri, it is not.

I think we then had to transfer to a rowboat, but remember I had finished two Cointreau martinis beforehand. Once inside the cave, the boat takes a circular route on the water, while the guide exclaims how amazing it is with ancient treasures (probably placed there by Zefferelli) glistening beneath the water. Then, without warning, as we spied some sunken “gems,” he shouted, “Miracoli! Miracoli!” Now, whenever something happens in a surprisingly good way on vacation, we always yell, “Miracoli! Miracoli”

The entire sequence in the cave could not have been more than 10 minutes.

The boat ride back was lovely with more outstanding views and we really got a good tan.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d103cd54ea.jpg

And a view of yesterday's church.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab43969d8c.jpg

On our balcony, we split a bottle Brunello (that we had purchased earlier in the trip) ...

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a497e88f2f.jpg

... and on that night had a dining experience for the ages; both good and bad (thanks to a very ugly American).

We walked to where a car would meet us and drive the four kilometers up to Ristorante Donna Rosa in Montepertuso, high in the hills overlooking Positano. I would have not wanted to navigate that twisting and turning road.

The views from here of Positano were mind-blowing, and so was the restaurant. This family-run restaurant was only four years old when we visited, and it still garners great reviews in 2020.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...520ba773f2.jpg

The food was delicious. We started with a Bufala mozzarella with scrumptious cherry tomatoes on a bed of greens. I still remember the dish because it is the one that started my love affair with cherry tomatoes.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6cc024606.jpg

All the pasta is freshly made, and Mary and I really enjoyed our ravioli stuffed with spinach & ricotta in a pomodoro basil sauce, and Tracy loved her ravioli with egglant & pomodoro/basil sauce. In her notes she said, “This dish was divine! It tasted as though it had butter in it!. Kim opted for spaghetti and clams, along with grilled chicken.

For those who have read my trip reports in the past, it will come as no surprise that I ordered two desserts. Hey, somebody has to do it! I shared with myself the best chocolate soufflé I have ever eaten. The warm chocolate center is memorable to this day.

Still not full, I then ordered a freshly made orange cake, moist and dense, with nuts and candied oranges on top. I capped that off with not one, but two, of the greatest cappuccinos ever made.

It was a perfect evening …except for the idiot New York lawyer at an adjacent table. Remember, I said this was a family run place … mama and one daughter in the kitchen, another daughter was the wine steward and other family members working the dining room.

This schmuck (sorry, he irks me until this day) bitched about everything from silverware to virtually every dish, and, of course, he was loud. He yelled at the wine steward about the wine. I’m sure his family sitting with him were very proud of his disgusting antics.

The daughter looked a little shaken when she came to our table, and Tracy wrote that I was “fun and charming” (we hadn’t been married very long then, so she didn’t know what she was in for) in an attempt to make the daughter not think about the cretin at the next table.

I even attempted to converse with her in Italian. Fortunately she had studied at the University of Texas, so I didn’t have to try very long (which is good, because I had run out of Italian phrases that I knew).

Throughout the evening she would take the verbal abuse, but would stop by to chat with us for a bit.

As I swallowed the last piece of orange cake, she came to the table, looked at me and said, “Mama would like you to come back to the kitchen.” I knew the reason wasn’t because I cooked well.

While back there, I met Mama (jokingly called Al Capona by her daughters) and her chef daughter. She thanked our table for being so nice to her other daughter, and I had a picture taken with Mama and the chef.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2dffa0763.jpg

As we waited for our car to arrive, we were offered a free glass of grappa from another family member. I adhered to my motto of, “You can’t toppa a free glass of Grappa.” (Almost as good as, “You’ll never me sorry with one more Campari.”)

The following morning we’d get an early start, because on the way to Rome, we’d visit some famous ruins where I was nearly killed by an overzealous tour guide. We’d then drop our car (not where we were supposed to, as it turned out), and take a taxi into Rome. We’d stay at a cool hotel, with a cool elevator and an even cooler bartender.

What the heck! I have nothing else to do, so let’s finish this up. Dang, we were young. I know it usually takes me a long time to write a trip report … but seven years?

We bid a fond farewell to what is now called La Badia di Orvieto (it was Hotel La Badia when we visited). We loved our stay there, including the dinners. It looks like the hotel gets more mixed reviews today, but still mostly good.

Before heading to the Amalfi Coast and Positano, we were going to stop by the clifftop town of Orvieto. When we met Kim and Mary for breakfast, I noticed he was wearing shorts. “You might want to rethink that. You might not get in the Duomo in shorts, “ I told him. “I’ll take my chances,” he replied.

It was a ten-minute drive up to the parking area for Duomo di Orvieto. Wow, what a sight! The exterior of the cathedral looks like it could be part of the interior. It’s covered with sculptures, stained glass and brightly colored mosaics. As feared, Kim was denied entry, thus “taking it in the shorts.”

We found out that the cathedral dates all the way back to the late 13th century and honored the Miracle of Bolsena. That event touched off the papal bull of 1264, which, in turn, created the feast of Corpus Christi, the holiday that messed up our visit to the cathedral in Sevilla, Spain, 14 years later when we were unable to see the famed retablo because of the celebration of Corpus Christi.

The highlight of the Duomo di Orvieto is the mesmerizing La cappella di San Brizio. The frescoes in this room overwhelm the senses. It has been called “one of the most significant instances of Italian Renaissance painting.”

The frescoes were so beautiful I took a photograph. Oops, before the shutter stopped I was reprimanded quite sternly. “No photography!!!” I was surprised I didn’t get a ruler to the knuckles.

We met up with Kim outside, told him he should have worn long pants and it was off to the Amalfi Coast, and the town of Positano. The drive would take a little more than three hours.

(Mai Tai Note: I thought I did extensive planning back then, but really this was still in the era where you faxed a hotel for reservations and not a lot of travel info was offered by the internet). Had I known all there was to do in Orvieto, we would have spent at least another day exploring that cute town … we hope to return.

Of course, we had been warned about the dangerous Amalfi Coast drive, where busses come hurtling toward you, and you face certain death at every turn. At least, that’s what I had been told.

Fortunately, at least this part of the Amalfi drive was a snap. There were a couple of close calls with tour busses, but luckily we passed each other at slow speeds, and soon we were at our hotel’s parking garage.

I had booked a hotel long before we left, however a few days before we departed I received a fax (remember them?) stating it was closed for renovations. Instead, they booked us at another hotel at the same price. The Covo Dei Saraceni is located steps from the beach with stupendous views of the Bay and town of Positano. I think our room had more square footage than the first house I purchased.

We had lunch at Chez Black, which, for the price, wasn’t worth it.

Afterward, we took a little stroll along the beach past numerous brightly colorful boats.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03cc02542d.jpg

Although Tracy was nearly taken out to sea by a tsunami, we successfully completed our walk.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71ec23c9a6.jpg

Kim and Mary went back to their room, happy in the fact that I hadn’t killed them on the Amalfi drive, while Tracy and I decided to walk around (and up) in Positano.

We checked out the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (yes, lots of churches even back then). It dates back to the 13th-century, and the church dome is covered with tiles.

Inside, I had received a tip to see the Altar of the Circumcision. There is also a black Madonna, which supposedly was given to the town by pirates, Sadly, I don't remember seeing it.

Tracy and I also discovered the “Stairs of Positano.” What we found was that there must be a million of them. Had Fitbit been invented at that time, I believe we would hold the record for combination of steps and floors climbed.

There are also long and winding roads we could have taken, but since that wasn’t my favorite Beatles’ song, we just let it be.

Back at the hotel, we took one of our patented 12-minute naps before meeting Kim and Mary on our balcony for a glass or three of wine.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c67741a80.jpg


We then wandered (upward, of course) and found a cute, little restaurant, whose name is lost to time and bad note taking. The food and drinks were very, very good.

I do remember Tracy ordered an Insalata Mista wih fried mozzarella with lemon leaves. Our waiter made sure to tell Tracy, “Do not eat the lemon leaves.”

My favorite concoction was a drink called a Positano Orange; fresh squeezed orange juice, gin, Grenadine and crème de menth. At the end of the meal, the owner not only showed me how to make it (a recipe also lost to time), but gave me the drink on the house.

As cool as that dining experience was, the following night’s dinner would end up with me in the restaurant kitchen, and i didn’t even have to wash dishes.

The following morning we enjoyed a breakfast for the ages.. As Mary recalled, “a five star spread of pastries, muffins, potatoes, eggs, meats, rolls and small pots of very hot, very strong coffee with steamed milk.” After a few of those coffees I was ready to roll. But roll to where?

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14367029e9.jpg

Once again, we climbed the now daunting to our bodies stairs until one of us (and I’m sure it wasn’t me), said, “Why don’t we relax by the pool.”

Relaxing is not my forte, but this was our first international trip with Kim and Mary, so we didn’t want to scare them off for future travels. We spent much of the early afternoon lounging by the pool, sipping Cointreau martinis and soaking up the sunshine. However, one can only relax so much!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfb8f0ee90.jpg

Kim and Mary went to their room, while Tracy and I hopped on a small boat, which would take us out to one of the cheesiest, yet funniest, experiences in our travels.

The boat ride itself was marvelous. Looking up at the Amalfi Highway from the sea, it looked a helluva lot more dangerous than the portion we drove. The dilapidated bridges were cause for concern, as well. We also passed by the house where our captain/tour director said Italian director Franco Zeffirelli owns a house.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...39398e9c8e.jpg


We then entered the Emerald Grotto. We thought we would be in for one of the experiences of our lifetime. The Blue Grotto near Capri, it is not.

I think we then had to transfer to a rowboat, but remember I had finished two Cointreau martinis beforehand. Once inside the cave, the boat takes a circular route on the water, while the guide exclaims how amazing it is with ancient treasures (probably placed there by Zefferelli) glistening beneath the water. Then, without warning, as we spied some sunken “gems,” he shouted, “Miracoli! Miracoli!” Now, whenever something happens in a surprisingly good way on vacation, we always yell, “Miracoli! Miracoli”

The entire sequence in the cave could not have been more than 10 minutes.
The boat ride back was lovely with more outstanding views, including one of yesterday's church ...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3dca4174a5.jpg

... and we really got a good tan.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a46b53a9db.jpg

On our balcony, we split a bottle Brunello (that we had purchased earlier in the trip), and on that night had a dining experience for the ages; both good and bad (thanks to a very ugly American). We walked to where a car would meet us and drive the four kilometers up to Ristorante Donna Rosa in Montepertuso, high in the hills overlooking Positano. I would have not wanted to navigate that twisting and turning road.

The views from here of Positano were mind-blowing, and so was the restaurant. This family-run restaurant was only four years old when we visited, and it still garners great reviews in 2020.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffc694916f.jpg

The food was delicious. We started with a Bufala mozzarella with scrumptious cherry tomatoes on a bed of greens. I still remember the dish because it is the one that started my love affair with cherry tomatoes.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03872dd008.jpg

All the pasta is freshly made, and Mary and I really enjoyed our ravioli stuffed with spinach & ricotta in a pomodoro basil sauce, and Tracy loved her ravioli with egglant & pomodoro/basil sauce. In her notes she said, “This dish was divine! It tasted as though it had butter in it!. Kim opted for spaghetti and clams, along with grilled chicken.

For those who have read my trip reports in the past, it will come as no surprise that I ordered two desserts. Hey, somebody has to do it! I shared with myself the best chocolate soufflé I have ever eaten. The warm chocolate center is memorable to this day.

Still not full, I then ordered a freshly made orange cake, moist and dense, with nuts and candied oranges on top. I capped that off with not one, but two, of the greatest cappuccinos ever made.

It was a perfect evening …except for the idiot New York lawyer (very unlike the nice, martini New York lawyer we met in Siena) at an adjacent table. Remember, I said this was a family run place … mama and one daughter in the kitchen, another daughter the wine steward and other family members working the dining room.

This schmuck (sorry, he irks me until this day) bitched about everything from silverware to virtually every dish, and, of course, he was loud. He yelled at the wine steward about the wine. I’m sure his family sitting with him were very proud of his disgusting antics.

The daughter looked a little shaken when she came to our table, and Tracy wrote that I was “fun and charming” (we hadn’t been married very long then, so she didn’t know what she was in for) in an attempt to make the daughter not think about the cretin at the next table.

I even attempted to converse with her in Italian. Fortunately she had studied at the University of Texas, so I didn’t have to try very long (which is good, because I had run out of Italian phrases that I knew).

Throughout the evening she would take the verbal abuse, but would stop by to chat with us for a bit.

As I swallowed the last piece of orange cake, she came to the table, looked at me and said, “Mama would like you to come back to the kitchen.” I knew the reason wasn’t because I cooked well.

While back there, I met Mama (jokingly called Al Capona by her daughters) and her chef daughter. She thanked our table for being so nice to her other daughter, and I had a picture taken with Mama and the chef.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5fff9c7f72.jpg

As we waited for our car to arrive, we were offered a free glass of grappa from another family member. I adhered to my motto of, “You can’t toppa a free glass of Grappa.” (Almost as good as, “You’ll never me sorry with one more Campari.”)

The following morning we’d get an early start, because on the way to Rome, we’d visit some famous ruins where I was nearly killed by an overzealous tour guide. We’d then drop our car (not where we were supposed to, as it turned out), and take a taxi into Rome. We’d stay at a cool hotel, with a cool elevator and an even cooler bartender.

Tom, so fun to see this! Don't know how I missed the start of it in 2013. I also fell in love with pecorino when I visited Pienza on my first trip to Italy in 2005. I stayed there for three nights, so had a chance to sample a common dish there, a thick slice of pecorino that has been aged for only one year grilled for a couple minutes on each side. Yum!

Thanks Susan, I just found our Positano pics a few days ago, so it got me to wanting to see this come to an end. Now I'm searching for our last stop - Pompeii and Rome. The biggest lesson learned on our 2001 trip ... Spend more nights in each town, but it sure gave us a great taste (literally, too) of Italy. (:

Before I start reading, just want to say thanks for this, Tom. I share the "being there" memories that reading TRs bring back. Will start reading with enthusiasm...although I'll miss you repeating a petrol story! LOL.

Ha! Just started and see you were getting 'the look' even back then. More LOL.

Here's what I wrote in 2018 about this TR:

What a wonderful TR, Tom. I actually had read the 2013 reboot. Thank goodness for a poor memory as it is all new this time and I have more to say these days:

Had to laugh about your luggage seeing more countries than you had.

“Take the ticket and go away.” https://www.fodors.com/community/ima...gsmile_png.gif

Your u-turn made you an honorary Italian!

Your Florence dinner with the natives sounded spectacular. And, OMG, you mentioned the biscotti for dipping. DH and I were given small crackers and they were so good. We were always searching (fruitlessly) for them.

We liked the Bargello way more than the Uffizi—not sure if the layout was the problem.

The look!

Sighs matters….

Loved the Iranian intro.

You're the best, maitaitom!

Am at Day 10 and enjoying it as much as the 1stt and 2nd times!

Maitaitom, just read your TR from your Italian trip, in "lira days" and pre-internet. Really enjoyed every bit of it! We spent about a month, also in "lira days", as you said, and pre-internet. Also, took few notes on trips. We winged it for most of the trip, had a marvelous time, visited many great places. Remember them as if the experiences were just five or so years ago. Just recently, we located our stash of small spiral bound notebooks which was about the extent of our note-taking on any trips. We were pleasantly surprised at how many details we did have of our seemingly long ago trip, and are now motivated to actually get these into a legible form. Thanks again for the wonderful, entertaining account of your trip! And for motivating us to reconstruct some of ours.