1st leg: Paris
Oct 25th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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1st leg: Paris
The trip has been a year in the planning and actually being here feels like the amorphous, malleable, melting clocks we saw yesterday at the L'Espace Dali.
Thought I would try to write as I go as even with the best of attentions I never finished my Abruzzo/Amalfi/Puglia trip report - again referencing the Dali clock.
We left Seattle on time (American) but waited on the tarmac for almost 4 hours due to a "malfunctioning window" at JFK. So we lost a few hours the first day in Paris. No biggie except counting on a 6:30a.m arrival, I paid an extra night to get in early to our apartment. Oh well. AA arrives in the 2a terminal at CDG. We easily found an ATM machine and withdrew enough cash for a few,days. Looked for a Navigo pass but decided we were too tired to walk down to the train station where they are sold. there is a well marked Information Booth in the center of 2 a and staffers were helpful.. Took a taxi from CDG. 42euros.
We rented the Truffaut apartment in the 17th. Our greeter was waiting for us at the apartment and did a nice job of explaining all the intricacies of the washing machine, tv, etc.
Our landlord, Doug, was very organized in his dealings with us. Would highly recommend him and the apartment. Nicely furnished and equipped, quiet at night, english news stations on tv, dvd, ipod doc, phone with free calls to home. Small elevator to 3rd American floor with nice little balcony. Very comfortable bed.
As we pulled up to the apartment we were a little worried at the sight of construction vehicles in front of the apartment. Yes, they are continuing the rebuilding and we are rudely awakened at 8am each morning by construction noise. This was especially unsettling to us as we had the same experience in our beautiful rental in Puglia which was so ear shatteringly loud that we could not stay in the apartment during the day. Hmmm. Luckily the weather has been spectacular
And we have been leaving early and coming home late.
The first day we spent moving in, gathering supplies and getting to know the Batignolles area a bit. We like the area. Very residential with lots of families and lots of restaurants and small stores. Place de Clichy is the transportation hub and is about a 10 minute wallk. The area feels totally safe. This is our 5th visit to Paris and the last one we spent in the 9th which we really liked. We now prefer being out of the hustle and bustle and because we spend at least a week (10days this time), we have the luxury of having the time to take bus and metro as needed as well as long walking days.
We ate lunch that day at Joy of Food just down the street from us. we are vegetarians, or rather pescaterians, and this place hit the spot. Very reasonable, pleasant owners and interior and nutritious, home cooked food. We will eat there again and recommend it.
That afternoon we picked up our Navigo cards at St. Lazare Metro Station. We tried at Foucher but were told they do not sell them, need a larger station. The staff at St. Lazare was helpful and took the photos we had brought and assembled the card for us. What a deal, I think we have already just about paid for it. It is also great to be able to use for the bus which we are,learning can be sometimes much more interesting and direct than the Metro.
Determined to avoid as much jet lag as possible we elected to catch the 20 bus from St. Lazure to Pont Neuf at 8pm or so. Walked along the Seine, sat in front of Notre Dame, admiring it in the moonlight. There is a seating and stage area being assembled in the square for the 850 year commeration so the view was somewhat blocked. Nevertheless, we are always thrilled to see it. had some difficulty finding our return bus stop but after using my pigeon French was able to find our way back home walking in the door at midnight. Slept like babies until the drilling started at 8am.
Wednesday was our Montmarte day. Walked up Rue Caulaincort from Place de Clichy threading our way up the hill to the Montmarte Cemetary. Such a beautiful day with blowing fallen leaves scattered among the graves. Visited those we were interested in and those who were unknown to us. Was helped by a kind worker to find Francois Truffuat's resting place which had several yellow and red roses artfully placed upon the tomb. Was happy to see Nijinsky's resting place and had my husband take a photo of me in arabesque (i have a dance history and am grateful for his contribution to an art form I love). Continued our way up and up crossing over to Rue Lepic. Loved the quiet residential area on the upper part of the Rue. Hustled through the throngs in rue Junot to the Dali Museum. Enjoyed it very much. On to the Montmarte Museum which we had never visited before. Loved the views of the vineyards with its' bright fall color. Was impressed with the history of the Commue and appalled at the loss of life during the quelling of their rebellion. Also a little appalled at my lack of knowledge about this period of French history. Also enjoyed the Mini Montmarte on the last floor with the labeling of homes of the not so rich but famous. Did not go to Sacre Couer this time. Did not want to fight the crowds, so we skirted around and headed back down Rue Caulaincort.
On the way home we made a reservation at Atao, 86 Rue Lemercier. Wonderful seafood in a small, bright space with a friendly owner. Informal. We had entrees of mackeral ceviche and clams in sake, moving on to plats of basil covered bream and a sardine mille feuille layered with eggplant. Accompanied by lovely vegetables and finished off with coffee and dessert crepes, a glass each of white (no Sancerre that night) for a total of 99 euros. We choose our meals carefully, most nights cooking in the apartment. Not disappointed wth this one.
Today after another refreshing sleep, our hammering and sawing alarm clock awoke us. Off to an early start with the bus to the 12th for crepes at Au Beurre Sale (55 Ledru-Rollin) (busy, friendly, inexpensive and delicious) and a walk along the Promende Plantee. What a lovely place. Appreciated the landscaping, views out into the surrounding city, and many park benches available for lounging. Tried to get Paris Free WiFi but the signal was too weak there to really use. Opted to nap on a park bench instead. We shared the park with a good number of Paresians including quite a few runners. Took a stroll through the Jardin Reuilly and then onto the Metro Line 6 for a ride to the neighborhood of Butte aux Cailles. Am grateful to Fodorites for mentioning this place. We could easily envision ourselves in a small village in Provence. Stopped for a tarte citron and cafe enjoying the ambience and then a long upright bus ride back to our neighborhood with a stop at Delizius (30 rue des Moins) for some fresh pesto ravioli to prepare for dinner. Excellent. Will surely go back for more dinner fixings.
Tomorrow we hope to ride velibs in Park Monceau. With this weather we have put off buying our museum pass in order to be outside as much as possible but we are now down to 1 week and we want to revisit the Rodin, see the Quai Branley, the exposition at Hotel de Ville, revisit the Pompidou, see the Islamic section at the Louvre, visit St. Denis, hear the organ concert at Notre Dame on Sunday, and meet my goal of a tarte citron every day. Hmmm.
We are really enjoying this vibrant city and feel grateful for this opportunity. We have noticed the homeless are more visible this visit and was surprised to see sleeping bags lined up last night in front of BHV.. It is the bittersweet of travel.
Thought I would try to write as I go as even with the best of attentions I never finished my Abruzzo/Amalfi/Puglia trip report - again referencing the Dali clock.
We left Seattle on time (American) but waited on the tarmac for almost 4 hours due to a "malfunctioning window" at JFK. So we lost a few hours the first day in Paris. No biggie except counting on a 6:30a.m arrival, I paid an extra night to get in early to our apartment. Oh well. AA arrives in the 2a terminal at CDG. We easily found an ATM machine and withdrew enough cash for a few,days. Looked for a Navigo pass but decided we were too tired to walk down to the train station where they are sold. there is a well marked Information Booth in the center of 2 a and staffers were helpful.. Took a taxi from CDG. 42euros.
We rented the Truffaut apartment in the 17th. Our greeter was waiting for us at the apartment and did a nice job of explaining all the intricacies of the washing machine, tv, etc.
Our landlord, Doug, was very organized in his dealings with us. Would highly recommend him and the apartment. Nicely furnished and equipped, quiet at night, english news stations on tv, dvd, ipod doc, phone with free calls to home. Small elevator to 3rd American floor with nice little balcony. Very comfortable bed.
As we pulled up to the apartment we were a little worried at the sight of construction vehicles in front of the apartment. Yes, they are continuing the rebuilding and we are rudely awakened at 8am each morning by construction noise. This was especially unsettling to us as we had the same experience in our beautiful rental in Puglia which was so ear shatteringly loud that we could not stay in the apartment during the day. Hmmm. Luckily the weather has been spectacular
And we have been leaving early and coming home late.
The first day we spent moving in, gathering supplies and getting to know the Batignolles area a bit. We like the area. Very residential with lots of families and lots of restaurants and small stores. Place de Clichy is the transportation hub and is about a 10 minute wallk. The area feels totally safe. This is our 5th visit to Paris and the last one we spent in the 9th which we really liked. We now prefer being out of the hustle and bustle and because we spend at least a week (10days this time), we have the luxury of having the time to take bus and metro as needed as well as long walking days.
We ate lunch that day at Joy of Food just down the street from us. we are vegetarians, or rather pescaterians, and this place hit the spot. Very reasonable, pleasant owners and interior and nutritious, home cooked food. We will eat there again and recommend it.
That afternoon we picked up our Navigo cards at St. Lazare Metro Station. We tried at Foucher but were told they do not sell them, need a larger station. The staff at St. Lazare was helpful and took the photos we had brought and assembled the card for us. What a deal, I think we have already just about paid for it. It is also great to be able to use for the bus which we are,learning can be sometimes much more interesting and direct than the Metro.
Determined to avoid as much jet lag as possible we elected to catch the 20 bus from St. Lazure to Pont Neuf at 8pm or so. Walked along the Seine, sat in front of Notre Dame, admiring it in the moonlight. There is a seating and stage area being assembled in the square for the 850 year commeration so the view was somewhat blocked. Nevertheless, we are always thrilled to see it. had some difficulty finding our return bus stop but after using my pigeon French was able to find our way back home walking in the door at midnight. Slept like babies until the drilling started at 8am.
Wednesday was our Montmarte day. Walked up Rue Caulaincort from Place de Clichy threading our way up the hill to the Montmarte Cemetary. Such a beautiful day with blowing fallen leaves scattered among the graves. Visited those we were interested in and those who were unknown to us. Was helped by a kind worker to find Francois Truffuat's resting place which had several yellow and red roses artfully placed upon the tomb. Was happy to see Nijinsky's resting place and had my husband take a photo of me in arabesque (i have a dance history and am grateful for his contribution to an art form I love). Continued our way up and up crossing over to Rue Lepic. Loved the quiet residential area on the upper part of the Rue. Hustled through the throngs in rue Junot to the Dali Museum. Enjoyed it very much. On to the Montmarte Museum which we had never visited before. Loved the views of the vineyards with its' bright fall color. Was impressed with the history of the Commue and appalled at the loss of life during the quelling of their rebellion. Also a little appalled at my lack of knowledge about this period of French history. Also enjoyed the Mini Montmarte on the last floor with the labeling of homes of the not so rich but famous. Did not go to Sacre Couer this time. Did not want to fight the crowds, so we skirted around and headed back down Rue Caulaincort.
On the way home we made a reservation at Atao, 86 Rue Lemercier. Wonderful seafood in a small, bright space with a friendly owner. Informal. We had entrees of mackeral ceviche and clams in sake, moving on to plats of basil covered bream and a sardine mille feuille layered with eggplant. Accompanied by lovely vegetables and finished off with coffee and dessert crepes, a glass each of white (no Sancerre that night) for a total of 99 euros. We choose our meals carefully, most nights cooking in the apartment. Not disappointed wth this one.
Today after another refreshing sleep, our hammering and sawing alarm clock awoke us. Off to an early start with the bus to the 12th for crepes at Au Beurre Sale (55 Ledru-Rollin) (busy, friendly, inexpensive and delicious) and a walk along the Promende Plantee. What a lovely place. Appreciated the landscaping, views out into the surrounding city, and many park benches available for lounging. Tried to get Paris Free WiFi but the signal was too weak there to really use. Opted to nap on a park bench instead. We shared the park with a good number of Paresians including quite a few runners. Took a stroll through the Jardin Reuilly and then onto the Metro Line 6 for a ride to the neighborhood of Butte aux Cailles. Am grateful to Fodorites for mentioning this place. We could easily envision ourselves in a small village in Provence. Stopped for a tarte citron and cafe enjoying the ambience and then a long upright bus ride back to our neighborhood with a stop at Delizius (30 rue des Moins) for some fresh pesto ravioli to prepare for dinner. Excellent. Will surely go back for more dinner fixings.
Tomorrow we hope to ride velibs in Park Monceau. With this weather we have put off buying our museum pass in order to be outside as much as possible but we are now down to 1 week and we want to revisit the Rodin, see the Quai Branley, the exposition at Hotel de Ville, revisit the Pompidou, see the Islamic section at the Louvre, visit St. Denis, hear the organ concert at Notre Dame on Sunday, and meet my goal of a tarte citron every day. Hmmm.
We are really enjoying this vibrant city and feel grateful for this opportunity. We have noticed the homeless are more visible this visit and was surprised to see sleeping bags lined up last night in front of BHV.. It is the bittersweet of travel.
Oct 25th, 2012, 02:24 PM
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Kurosawa, thank you. Here is the link.http://www.vrbo.com/44176
Oct 25th, 2012, 02:39 PM
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Sorry this wasn't labeled as a trip report. I checked the box and also made some spelling corrections but the site was doing some weird stuff. Will restart a new topic on next installment with trip report label.
Oct 25th, 2012, 11:09 PM
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cindyjo, instead of starting a new thread, try sending an email to the editors. They can mark this as a trip report for you.
I am enjoying your report. My late wife and I stayed in that apartment a couple of months before the fire; it is wonderful to see it restored so beautifully. And, as others have remarked, the owner is very, very good to deal with.
By coincidence, my daughter and I are staying in the 1st this week and are planning to walk through Batignolles today. If you look out your window and see two people looking up at the building, that will be us.
Looking forward to the rest of your report ...
I am enjoying your report. My late wife and I stayed in that apartment a couple of months before the fire; it is wonderful to see it restored so beautifully. And, as others have remarked, the owner is very, very good to deal with.
By coincidence, my daughter and I are staying in the 1st this week and are planning to walk through Batignolles today. If you look out your window and see two people looking up at the building, that will be us.
Looking forward to the rest of your report ...
Oct 26th, 2012, 02:47 AM
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CindyJo,
What a great report – you write from the perspective of one who has been to Paris before but open to exploring a different neighborhood and experience. I look forward to reading more.
You wrote:
“Was impressed with the history of the Commune and appalled at the loss of life during the quelling of their rebellion. Also a little appalled at my lack of knowledge about this period of French history.”
When you get home, I suggest reading THE GREATER JOURNEY, AMERICANS IN PARIS 1830-1900 by David McCollough. This book gave me a greater understanding of 19th century French history than many other tomes I have read over the years – particularly good on the many political revolutions and especially the bloody Commune fiasco.
Awaiting your next post…
What a great report – you write from the perspective of one who has been to Paris before but open to exploring a different neighborhood and experience. I look forward to reading more.
You wrote:
“Was impressed with the history of the Commune and appalled at the loss of life during the quelling of their rebellion. Also a little appalled at my lack of knowledge about this period of French history.”
When you get home, I suggest reading THE GREATER JOURNEY, AMERICANS IN PARIS 1830-1900 by David McCollough. This book gave me a greater understanding of 19th century French history than many other tomes I have read over the years – particularly good on the many political revolutions and especially the bloody Commune fiasco.
Awaiting your next post…
Oct 26th, 2012, 03:28 AM
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AnselmAdorne, am glad you are reliving good memories from this report. Looking out the window for you but haven't seen anyone gazing up!
Latedaytraveler, what a coincidence, found that book here at Doug's place last night and have started it this morning. One of the reasons we are getting such a late start. We need to remind ourselves that we are, afterall, on vacation.
Heading out to the Batignolles Square with a trip toward rue de Levis and onward to Parc Monceau. Grey here today but a promise of sun later.
Latedaytraveler, what a coincidence, found that book here at Doug's place last night and have started it this morning. One of the reasons we are getting such a late start. We need to remind ourselves that we are, afterall, on vacation.
Heading out to the Batignolles Square with a trip toward rue de Levis and onward to Parc Monceau. Grey here today but a promise of sun later.
Oct 26th, 2012, 05:11 AM
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I'm definitely bookmarking that apartment. We've stayed in the 18th twice, will be in the 9th in May, but the 17th is always towards the top of the list. I love that area you're in.
Right around you is the church of Sainte Marie des Batignolles, where we heard a wonderful concert a couple years ago. Maybe something to check out, if that's of interest to you.
Needless to say, I'm really enjoying this, cindyjo! Thanks, and looking forward to more.
Right around you is the church of Sainte Marie des Batignolles, where we heard a wonderful concert a couple years ago. Maybe something to check out, if that's of interest to you.
Needless to say, I'm really enjoying this, cindyjo! Thanks, and looking forward to more.
Oct 26th, 2012, 07:16 AM
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cindyjo, we were there this morning, around 11:45, I think it was. The outside of the building is looking good, especially the brickwork.
The memories are mixed, actually. The story is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/susans-paris.cfm
We are going back home tomorrow afternoon. It sounds like you are settling in for a wonderful visit.
The memories are mixed, actually. The story is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/susans-paris.cfm
We are going back home tomorrow afternoon. It sounds like you are settling in for a wonderful visit.
Oct 27th, 2012, 03:12 AM
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Enjoying your report; we will be in Paris this time next week. I bought tickets online for the Edward Hopper exhibit at the Grand Palais. Funny to go to Paris to see Hopper, but I love his work.
We will get the US election results from Paris, which should be an interesting perspective. We already voted absentee ballot.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
We will get the US election results from Paris, which should be an interesting perspective. We already voted absentee ballot.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Oct 27th, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Some responses from me to you.
AnselmAdorne, I was very touched by reading your trip report. Am sorry that we missed your look up. We actually were here at that time and would have shouted down to invite you for a cup of tea! Hope you are well on your way home.
Opaldog, we have thought of seeing the Hopper exhibit as well. We haven't bought tickets yet. Will try to do so tomorrow as our time here is flying, or should I say melting.
YankyGal, no luck with a concert at Sainte Marie des Batignolles while we are here. We did sit for a spell in the church yesterday afternoon, enjoying the solitude.
Keroac - we walked,through what looked like a sports area in the Parc Martin Luther King but didn't see a way past the fence. We did see the sign describing the development. Looks like a lot of greenspace. Tomorow we will nose around around for an entrance to explore further. What kind of housing will it be? Mixed use? My French is not good enough to manage much of the description on the sign.
Yesterday - Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down. left the apartment about noon and walked to,the Square Batignolles. Did spend some time watching the petanque/boules (what is the difference? Anyone?) and wandered through the park watching the young families with their darling little children. It is a delight for us to see the gaggle of parents gathered outside the schools waiting for their kids. We come from a rural area where the kids come home on the bus. I think we miss out on the camaraderie of the "pick up".
We walked down rue Legendre to rue Levis and on past numerous embassies to the Parc Monceau. What a lovely park. It was raining lightly, yellow leaves were swirling along walkways and Parisians with open umbrellas were strolling along the wide paths. The image was worthy of a place on the wall of the d'Orsay. Because of the rain, we did not use the Velib system, but are determned to try before the end of our visit.
I loved the plantings at Parc Monceau. It seems as if the French have gotten away from the more formal plantings I have seen in the past. As a gardener, I noticed the use of grasses, euphorbias and other drought tolerant plants. We also appreciated the ancient looking yews and plane trees.
It was interesting to walk through rue Mariotte, rue Dulong area along the rail tracks on our walk to Parc Monceau. We had looked at a few apartments in the area and were warned against it. It is a bit bleak but not a place I wouldn't stay. Actually we haven't visited any neighborhood we wouldn't stay yet. It seems as if the defining word is neighborhood, a place with a sense of community life.
On the way home from Parc Monceau, we stopped at rue de la Terrasse off rue des Levis at Androuet sur le Pouce for a cheese purchase. What a great shop. I again tried to communicate with my poor French and they met me more than halfway. Very kind with good suggestions and delicious cheese.
We ate in last night but then went for a late night walk through the Batignolles ending up on Avenue St. Ouen. Was fun walking past full to capacity restaurants on rue des Dames, I understand now how important it is to make a reservation on the weekends even to the most casual of restaurants.
Tomorrow we will have an early start at the Marche Biologique on Avenue Batignolles and then Metro 13 to Monparnasse: Monparnasse Tower, Monparnasse Cemetary and Fondation Cartier Bresson.
AnselmAdorne, I was very touched by reading your trip report. Am sorry that we missed your look up. We actually were here at that time and would have shouted down to invite you for a cup of tea! Hope you are well on your way home.
Opaldog, we have thought of seeing the Hopper exhibit as well. We haven't bought tickets yet. Will try to do so tomorrow as our time here is flying, or should I say melting.
YankyGal, no luck with a concert at Sainte Marie des Batignolles while we are here. We did sit for a spell in the church yesterday afternoon, enjoying the solitude.
Keroac - we walked,through what looked like a sports area in the Parc Martin Luther King but didn't see a way past the fence. We did see the sign describing the development. Looks like a lot of greenspace. Tomorow we will nose around around for an entrance to explore further. What kind of housing will it be? Mixed use? My French is not good enough to manage much of the description on the sign.
Yesterday - Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down. left the apartment about noon and walked to,the Square Batignolles. Did spend some time watching the petanque/boules (what is the difference? Anyone?) and wandered through the park watching the young families with their darling little children. It is a delight for us to see the gaggle of parents gathered outside the schools waiting for their kids. We come from a rural area where the kids come home on the bus. I think we miss out on the camaraderie of the "pick up".
We walked down rue Legendre to rue Levis and on past numerous embassies to the Parc Monceau. What a lovely park. It was raining lightly, yellow leaves were swirling along walkways and Parisians with open umbrellas were strolling along the wide paths. The image was worthy of a place on the wall of the d'Orsay. Because of the rain, we did not use the Velib system, but are determned to try before the end of our visit.
I loved the plantings at Parc Monceau. It seems as if the French have gotten away from the more formal plantings I have seen in the past. As a gardener, I noticed the use of grasses, euphorbias and other drought tolerant plants. We also appreciated the ancient looking yews and plane trees.
It was interesting to walk through rue Mariotte, rue Dulong area along the rail tracks on our walk to Parc Monceau. We had looked at a few apartments in the area and were warned against it. It is a bit bleak but not a place I wouldn't stay. Actually we haven't visited any neighborhood we wouldn't stay yet. It seems as if the defining word is neighborhood, a place with a sense of community life.
On the way home from Parc Monceau, we stopped at rue de la Terrasse off rue des Levis at Androuet sur le Pouce for a cheese purchase. What a great shop. I again tried to communicate with my poor French and they met me more than halfway. Very kind with good suggestions and delicious cheese.
We ate in last night but then went for a late night walk through the Batignolles ending up on Avenue St. Ouen. Was fun walking past full to capacity restaurants on rue des Dames, I understand now how important it is to make a reservation on the weekends even to the most casual of restaurants.
Tomorrow we will have an early start at the Marche Biologique on Avenue Batignolles and then Metro 13 to Monparnasse: Monparnasse Tower, Monparnasse Cemetary and Fondation Cartier Bresson.
Oct 27th, 2012, 03:23 PM
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Cindyjo, continuing to enjoy your Paris sojourn.
Re: McCullough’s THE GREATER JOURNEY, you wrote-
“Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down.”
Isn’t it a great read? To me the most fascinating part is from the diary of the American ambassador to France, Elihu Washburne, during the Franco-Prussian War and the siege of Paris. Parisians resorted to eating the animals in the zoo. Washburne did all he could to protect those American nationals who could not escape, along with the poorer German citizens/servants also stuck in the city.
McCullough’s description of the Commune period is also intriguing. Curiously, I am now reading THE JOHNSTOWN FLOOD, another old McCullough gem even as Hurricane Sandy bears down on the east coast of the US.
Looking forward to more of your trip…if we still have electricity
Re: McCullough’s THE GREATER JOURNEY, you wrote-
“Pretty laid back day. As mentioned earlier, I started reading The Greater Journey and didn't want to put it down.”
Isn’t it a great read? To me the most fascinating part is from the diary of the American ambassador to France, Elihu Washburne, during the Franco-Prussian War and the siege of Paris. Parisians resorted to eating the animals in the zoo. Washburne did all he could to protect those American nationals who could not escape, along with the poorer German citizens/servants also stuck in the city.
McCullough’s description of the Commune period is also intriguing. Curiously, I am now reading THE JOHNSTOWN FLOOD, another old McCullough gem even as Hurricane Sandy bears down on the east coast of the US.
Looking forward to more of your trip…if we still have electricity
