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14 days in Tuscany, Umbria and Amalfi Coast
After much hair pulling and threats of just going to Ireland and Scotland, I think I finally have this 50th birthday trip worked out. Just my wife and I. Looking for a little great food, great wine, beautiful views, perhaps a cooking class might be fun?, people watching, enjoying each other in a beautiful land! Pretty simple! We look to combine a couple of splurges along the way with some good, inexpensive hotels. Always looking for that little hole in the wall that has the greatest food known to mankind as well as the splurge night(s).
Freq. Flyer has me flying in/out of LHR. (thus the Ireland/Scotland thought..) (Total trip 18 days) Fly to FCO...sleep!! Day 2, 3, 4...Rent car and drive to Castello di Banfi for 3 nights stay. (Visit San G., Siena, Radda in Chianti?, San Q, Montepulciano, just to name a few). Visited Florence many years ago, so I don't need a return visit. Day 5...Drive to Umbria (still trying to figure out where to stay there) Day 6 and 7 ...travel in the Umbria area (not sure where to!) Day 8 drive to Pompeii, return car in Sorrento. Day 9, 10, 11 use Positano as a base for Amalfi, Ravello, etc. Day 12 and 13... stay on Capri (not sure where yet) Day 14 ferry to Naples stay one night in Naples Day 15 fly Naples to London Day 16, 17 London (not sure where staying yet) Day 18 Fly home Feasible? Anything you might change? I await your always wonderful responses!!!! :) Thanks again in advance for sharing your wealth of knowledge!!!! MasterPhil |
I've spent more time here at fodors.com and now I'm changing my mind again!?
Some really great info I got was to start my Amalfi Coast stay on Capri. Driving south from Tuscany (or Umbria), I planned on stopping at Pompeii (parking and leaving my luggage in car????) then continue driving to Sorrento (returning the rental car) and staying somewhere near the ferry to Capri. The next morning ferry to Capri for 3 nights than ferry to Positano for 3 nights, before having a driver take us to Naples for flight home. I originally was leaving from Capri to Naples Airport. Thanks for letting me know this could be problematic if inclement weather! (I wasn't thinking!) In Tuscany, my plans are to stay at Castelo di Banfi for 3 nights. 2 days to rest, 1 day to visit San Q, Pienza, and Montepulciano. Following day driving to Siena, San Gimignano and staying in Radda in Chianti (somewhere inexpensive just to sleep after a long day). Now I have 3 days to figure out in either Tuscany or Umbria before driving to Sorrento. My current itinerary looks like this: Day 1: Evening Arrival FCO and sleep at hotel near airport. Day 2: Spend a couple of hours in Rome in the a.m.(been there before, but I threw a coin in Trevi Fountain, so I have to "return.") , rent car and drive to Castelo di Banfi. (stay 3 nights) Day 3: relax at hotel and spend some time in Montalcino Day 4: short drive to San Q, Pienza, and Montepulciano. Day 5: drive to Siena, San G and stay at Radda in Chianti? Day 6: start driving south to ???? (open to suggestions for these 3 days,probably be best to move towards Pompeii (we wake up early and are used to driving 3-5 hrs on our vacations) Day 7: spend time in ???? Day 8: drive to ??? Day 9: drive to Pompeii (spend some hours there), drive to Sorrento, return car and stay at inexpensive hotel in Sorrento. Day 10: ferry to Capri (stay at ??? hotel) Day 11: hiking around Capri Day 12: boat around island, maybe blue grotto, enjoy last night in Capri Day 13: ferry to Positano (stay at ??) Day 14: day trips to Amalfi and Ravello (would love to go to Buffalo Mozzarella farm but probably too far away!) Day 15: driver to Naples airport for flight to London |
Hi PHIL:
To my way of thinking, the stay at Positano is redundant to the one on the Isle of Capri. Staying on Capri is a very good idea IMO and you can easily daytrip to Positano (Amalfi and Ravello too) from there. We stayed at the Monte Solaro B+B above Anacapri... |
I thought that the Capri-Naples ferries ran in all weather. (??)
I would try to reach Capri on Day 9 to avoid so many hotel changes. Ferries run until 8pm... Looks great!!! |
Thanks Tuck and ek...
Positano is the cause of my indecisive-ness. I originally started staying in Positano for 5 nights and going to Amalfi Coast for 2 weeks. Thanks to what I read here, I've decided to make it Tuscany and Amalfi. Day 9 is so hectic that I figure just staying in a crash pad in Sorrento and getting first ferry out in am to Capri might save a couple of $$$. I am now thinking of extending Capri to 4 days and eliminating stay in Positano. Adding final night in Naples before flight home. You guys are great! Thanks for allowing me to bounce some ideas off of you! |
I don't see the point of staying near the airport in Rome to pick up a car especially if you are planning to spend the next morning in Rome. That would involve training or taxing in to sightsee and then back out to get the car. I certainly wouldn't want to pick up a car at the aiport and then drive into Rome to sightsee and try to navigate the city and find parking. I would arrive FCO and spend the night in central Rome, not at the airport. Visit the Trevi the next morning and hop a train to either Orvieto or Chiusi to pick up the car.
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I think I agree about eliminating Positano and adding one night in Naples. I have a similar issue with my next trip to the area, as we need a night or two on the mainland before departing from Naples airport.
I have done some looking around for a possible final night in Naples and come up with a few interesting places that are not too pricey. Let me know if you want me to share what I found. Also: Last spring we stayed in Chiaia at this hotel which was very nice, but you do not have to spend as much for a nice place. http://www.palazzoalabardieri.it/eng/ |
I'd skip the trip into Rome. (That way you'll still have to return.) Spend the night at the airport hotel, pick up the rental car, and drive north. You don't want to drive a rental car into Rome, and if you pick up your rental car in central Rome, you have to drive out, which is more difficult than from the airport.
If you have to have your time in Rome, drop off the car on your way south (maybe in Orvieto?) and take the train to Rome, then, after a couple hours, continue south to Naples by train. I'm not up to date on baggage storage in the Stazione Termini, but I would think they have it. |
Masterphil,
My one comment is to be sure to visit Sant'Antimo for the Gregorian Chants. It's just a few kms from Montalcino. I went to the earliest service and it was lovely. The abbey is so austere and so beautiful. Uncrowded early and very peaceful. Once the "visiting hours" start, the tour buses are rolling in. Also, a nice place to stay in Umbria (I think I've already recommended it to you) is Palazzo Bocci in tiny Spello. If you visited Assisi during the day, head on down to Spello (10 minutes away) and stay there at least one night. Spend an hour the next morning strolling through the town. I could go back tomorrow! Buon viaggio! |
You seem to be changing your mind rather often, but I do like your basic itinerary. I doubt if you will like the location of Castello Banfi--it is very isolated and a good :20 south of Montalcino. I would stay in Montalcino or San Quirico for ease of day trips. In Umbria, I too like Palazzo Bocci but also look at Genius Loci near Bevagna--both are great locations.
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Thanks all!!
I'm usually pretty decisive regarding vacations. This one is for my 50th birthday, so maybe age is catching up to me! haha My thought with Rome...I arrive at FCO at 7:30pm. Staying at hotel at airport makes things easy. As early risers, hotel has a shuttle to and from Rome. I thought I could just spend a couple of hours being in Rome (I know that sounds crazy), then jumping back on hotel shuttle and getting rental car and driving to Castelo di Banfi. I chose this place, because it looks like a beautiful place to relax and chill out upon arrival (I have to ease my wife into this vacation (haha)) Sitting admiring the country side, drinking wine and eating well is the start I am looking for. Thanks for the Sant'Antimo!! I had read about the chants and thought that might be cool myself! I have read about Palazzo Bocci and will now look at Genius Loci. Thanks ek!! I do enjoy this part of the vacation...the planning!! My final product is usually a good one! Everytime I tell my wife I finally figured it out, she rolls her eyes, because she knows it (my planning) "ain't over til it's over!" Right now, I'm inclined to spend less time in Amalfi Coast (perhaps 4 nights on Capri and 0 in Positano) and more time in Tuscany/Umbria. As usual, at this point, all of my thoughts are subject to change!! haha Anybody familiar with Hotel Mamela on Capri? Thanks again to all of you!! You are really special people! I can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and experiences! |
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>> Right now, I'm inclined to spend less time in Amalfi Coast (perhaps 4 nights on Capri and 0 in Positano) and more time in Tuscany/Umbria. <<
Do that - and no more mind-changes!!! |
Thanks, Tuck!
My story is full of plot changes, misdirection, and is building to a surprise ending!! "no more mind-changes" is just to final! I need some suspense! :) |
Masterphil,
We all just might start rolling our eyes! :-) |
Hahaha
Very Good, Dayle!!! My wife can have some company!! :) |
bobthenavigator...
Genius Loci is perfect!!! I always love to stay in a place that has a wonderful view. A place to kick back with a glass of wine and admire this wonderful planet. From the photos I have seen, this hotel has just that. Also, it's puts me in a pretty good position to head down to Amalfi Coast. Just what I am looking for!!! Many, many thanks!! |
My son stayed there in July and loved it.
Prego ! |
My itinerary is complete!!!
Thank you for all of your help! |
Castello Banfi!! Lucky you. We visited this winery and dream of the day we can afford to stay there. It is gorgeous.
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