moolyn

Your great report and wonderful photos have made me realize that I need to visit Ireland. Thanks so much for sharing!

teacher33

A great report!

I love the way you have set up the details--the B&B location, website, price and then description of the room, breakfast and hosts.

I feel like laughing with you and your experiences.

Pictures are great--just enough and well set up.

Can't wait for more!
Can't wait for more!

Nuttela

This is turning out to be a great report and I can't wait to hear more. Thanks for writing.

On a seperate note, I do say I miss the film cameras but there is something to say of having digital cameras you can see photos immediately and not carry loads of film containers.

Thanks again.

xyz99

Dawn,
Thanks a lot for the Nissan Micra – Ford Fiesta comparison. We’ll try to get the Nissan..

I had to laugh…the Ford did not start unless in neutral We had the same problem in Croatia last year – the best part was that there we picket up the car with the engine running at the airport, parked at our hotel (a few blocks away) and the next day we could not get it started. We had to call the rental agency, and I think they sent out someone to rescue us – can’t tell you how embarrassed we felt. I bet those Croatians had a good laugh about those stupid Americans who couldn’t even start the car.

Anyway, about the Gap of Dunloe tour – Deros was the tour company we considered, so glad to hear you were happy with them.

We will try to visit Ross Castle and Muckross House one day, one our way from Dingle to Kenmare, then allow the next day for the Gap of Dunloe tour. Hope the weather will cooperate with our plans.

As for the peninsulas: we are planning: Mizen, Sheep's Head, Beara, Dingle, Sky(Clifden), Rinvyle, Loop Head, Black Head. That’s 8, but I think the Gap if Dunloe covers a portion of the Iveragh, right? And we might even adopt a sheep

Hiking one of the Gleninchaquin trails will be decided there and then – I don’t think we can fit it, but you never know.

Thanks again, and looking forward for more details on your adventures.

12perfectdays

D

12perfectdays

<i> I promise to keep alot of the other days much shorter but we really packed alot of stuff in here and of all we did - this day seems to be the one that intrests most of our fammily and friends- I swear it's not my intention to put ya'll asleep!
Dawn</i>

<b>Day 6</b>
<b><i>Still in Beara/Glengariff</i></b>
This is where we hired a driver for the day so that DH could see some sights too (forgot to mention that we finished our self drive of Beara at 6pm and DH drove 87 miles)

<u>West Cork Coaches</u>
(owner/operator) Donal Harrington
cell: 353 ((0)86) 1050 828
http://www.westcorkcoaches.com/
Based in Glengariff, <i>rates vary…200E for 2 (off season) </i>

<u> <b> <i>flashback on how I found Donal, our driver</i> </b> </u>
Finding people who know people is easy in Ireland and if it is out of someone’s “area” they will usually pass you on to someone who is and this is how I stumbled onto some great info…
I was home planning my Ireland trip and did a web search to see if I could find more interesting maps of Beara on line and stumbled upon this great pdf download filled with all kinds of local things-including Hartnett Tours in Kenmare and Tommy the owner who put me in touch with Donal. (Adopt-a-Sheep farm walk, Molly Gallivan’s, Gleninchaquin and Bonane are all listed here too!)
http://www.kenmare.com/news/pdf/back.pdf

<u> <font color="green">Our BIG day &amp; where we went</font></u>
On the morning of Day 6- about 9:30am, Donal met us at the door of our B&amp;B and we were off in his Octavia and headed to Mizen and Sheep’s Head for the day. The route we covered was Bantry, Schull, Goleen, Mizen Head, Brow Head, Crookhaven, Barley Cove, Mizen Light House, Goleen, Manus Bay, Durris Village, Heron Cove, Kilcrohane, Sheep’s Head center, back through Kilcrohane and the Goat’s Path, Bantry and back to Glengariff by 5:45pm

<font color="green"><u>The funeral </u></font>
On this tour we stopped in Schull to see the boats and came across a small craft fair &amp; as we walked back we ended up in the midst of a crowd and realized that there was a funeral procession ahead with pallbearers carrying the casket from the church across town to the cemetery. We slowed down and watched as each store closed it’s doors and turned off it’s lights in respect as the casket passed by. <i>We were told by someone in town that an elderly person had passed and afterwards there would be a celebration in remembrance of the rich life that person had lived.</i>

<font color="green"> <u> THANK YOU Wojazz! </u></font>
Took Wojazz’s advice and I directed Donal to the old coast guard station on Brow Head for some great views. Donal didn’t even know about this and it was pretty funny to have me directing him on where to go-“Wojazz says right…turn right, go up that way”-LOL Donal even walked around with us to check it all out. Well worth the stop.
Off to Mizen lighthouse where the views are really quite nice (be warned- that “uphill both ways” thing really happens here)! But again, great views and even just 10 minutes reading about the lighthouse gives you a fine appreciation.

<u><font color="green">Sheep’s Head</font></u>
All of the areas we drove through and stopped to look and see were beautiful. I would like to see Sheep’s Head again as the fog had really rolled in when we got there and we did not get to see much. I would also like to hike around there and could envision myself staying overnight just to do a day hike- I will say that the drive alone is an adventure- and on the Goat’s Path we ran into a Mayor? up for re-election and he stopped us to talk to Donal- yep, 2 cars almost touching- one going down and one going up and I (of course) was on the side that was almost over the cliff. I was very tempted to open my door and see just how far the tyres were from the edge but hey- I decided not to give DH a heart attack (he had to drive us to The Shores the next day).J)

<font color="green"><u>Road Bowling </u></font>
We also ran into some road bowling twice in this area (Durris Village and Kilcrohane) and I took some pics from the car even though I really wanted to stop and join the crowd- glad it was Donal’s car and not our rental…”yeah, so ummm- we got caught in a road bowling tourney…it’s only a small hole” would have been hard to explain to Dan Dooley but Donal got us safely through between rock tosses. (Next time I am gonna stop!)

<font color="green"> <u>The highlight of the day &amp; a &lt;head slap&gt;Duh! moment</u></font>
Besides all of the sights- it was meeting Donal and having someone local give us a history- not only of the area but of a glimpse of himself from having lived in Glengariff all of his life with a family going back generations. (He really goggled at us not knowing our genealogy- it was almost incomprehensible to him). Throughout the day he would share stories and as we got to know each other we were able to ask quite a few questions that ran the gamut from Family to the Troubles to politics, presidents, cost of living and real estate- plus the one burning question that had been on my mind all day: Just where were the people walking on the roadside headed when there was nothing around for miles??? I am just so used to the gym or going around the block or up to 7-11 and back it just did NOT occur to me that they would walk up and then down the same road to nowhere for exercise- Duh! Yeah, I’ve been in the city waaay too long!

<font color="green">Day end!</font>
After getting dropped off and giving Donal- my dear old friend a hug we were again off to Casey’s- boring I know but it was my turn for Guinness Pie! The place was packed- everyone from neighboring towns was out and about enjoying the fine weather and all were lined up at Casey’s for dinner and a grand time was had by all!

CowboyCraic

Dawn,

I understand Donal's perplexity regarding genealogy. I have observed that here are many Americans who cannot trace their lineage any much further back than Grandparents. I am not sure why that is the case.

I love to sit by a turf fire and listen to stories about &quot;the old ones&quot;, as one elder lady called her ancestors. They alwayys seem quite pleased when I can give them information about my &quot;Old ones&quot;.

Thanks for your trip report! I have really enjoyed reading the segments as you post them.

Slan Beo,

Bit

12perfectdays

Hi Bit!
Thanks for the kind comments

I guess I just know so many who can't trace their family and anytime someone has a story I am there!
I know (coming from an East Coast town) most of my friends could not go back farther than great-grandparents coming through Ellis Island and in many conversations I have had one reason that has come up again and again is that once here they became Americans, everything was new and the past was gone.

I admit to some amazement myself with DH's family- one side cannot find any info. all traces end in the hills of Kentucky with Great Uncles Purly, Girly and Blue!

Dawn

xyz99

Dawn,
Great job on this trip report, I really enjoy reading it. We are planning on seeing both Mizen and Sheeps’ Head in 2 separate days – any thoughts on that? Is it too little for each day? Considering that DH is driving, hopefully not…We will stay in Schull for that – what did you think about the town?

And Guinness Pie … hmm, I have no idea what that is, but sounds wonderful. Hopefully we’ll get to taste some.

If you still have them, can you please repost wojazz’s directions to the old coast guard station on Brow Head? Thanks a lot.

mom83

While staying in Kinsale, we did a day trip to Mizen Head and Sheep's Head. It was a long day, but easily done. Having said that, I could also have spent more time there. We stopped in Schull on our way for lunch at Bunratty Arms - quite good.
We did the hour long hike at Sheep's Head penisula. There is an even longer one, but we did not have the time. It was awesome, as the weather was perfect. We stopped at Mary Ann's in Castletownsend on our way back - delicious dinner!!

12perfectdays

xyz99-
I have tried to find the post that Wojazz had the directions for and alas- I canot seem to find it- I have my written notes which I will copy here. I hope they help you. I wrote them knowing we were going to have a driver that knew the area-

<u>Brow Head</u>
just after bend in bay coming into Crookhaven- small road to right looks like a driveway- take to top and walk to ruins of old signal house.

Also try back road from Crookhaven to Goleen (not the coastal route) tiny &quot;driveway&quot; like road-great views

<u>O'Sullivan's pub in Crookhaven</u>

<u>Crookhaven Inn for food</u>

<u>If tide is in- stop at Heron's Cove</u>

I do believe this is a cross of info between Wojazz and I.C.- I would also have to review my notes since we saw so much in one day but I do remember mentioning to Donal about the back road to Goleen, I just cannot remember if we did take it at the moment.

- info. on Bonane, Inch Beach, The Shores B&amp;B, Dingle tour and Rough Point- and what happened when we stopped back at Dan Dooley in Shannon!

Thanks!
Dawn

Shadow

Dawn,
So glad to see your report! As you know we were there almost at the same time....great weather, huh? We were on a leaders tour for CIE..we are leading a tour in Sept. Normally we are not tour people but this is the only way to bring 28 people!! Yeah, 28! Yikes! However, our CIE driver/guide will be taking care of everything so that will be nice!! I did custom design the tour though...its gonna be interesting....
Great trip report as always!!
Shadow

12perfectdays

Shadow great to hear from you!
Thanks for the compliments (always a concern I am causing people to sleep on their keyboard)
We must chat soon- I am very interested in more info. about you organizing a tour!

Dawn

12perfectdays

<b>Day 7
Beara to Castlegregory (Dingle peninsula)</b>

<u>The Shores Country House </u> <i> 45Euro pp </i>
Cappatigue, Castlegregory, County Kerry www.theshorescountryhouse.com
353 66 713 9196 pps: Annette O’Mahoney
This is the Grand Dame of luxury! Annette welcomed us back for our 2nd visit and is an absolutely beautiful person! The views along Connor Pass where her house sits, the house itself inside and out, the d&eacute;cor, the linens, the heavenly shower, the 2nd floor balcony room and the most AMAZING breakfast ever!
I can certainly tell you that everything again was perfect, fresh, not a mote of dust, the best shower, the big king bed- I really could go on and on and on. Again, the only disappointment I had was that Annette was unable to serve dinner. (There are just some sacrifices that we make for traveling out of season/shoulder season) but breakfast was perfect both mornings as we had a ham and cheese croissant along with all of the other delights that I will leave for you to find out on your visit- and you simply must visit!!!

<u>Day 7</u> was a picture perfect day as we said our goodbyes to Bridget at Magannagan Farm and set off north on the N71 through the Caha Pass and great rock tunnels. Our goal was to head to Bonane, check out Molly Gallivan’s and The Bonane Heritage Park and then head West on the N70 Blackwater Bridge and take the Ballaghbeama Gap across the Iveragh peninsula to Castlemaine and the 561 to Inch Beach and one of the little roads up to Camp and Castlegregory and the Shores.

<b>Bonane </b>
is 16 km from Glengariff (or 12km from Kenmare) on the N71and on a Monday in April when it just so happened that everything was closed- we would have missed it if we weren’t looking for it. If you are on the lookout Molly Gallivan’s it is posted but alas was closed for us as was O’Connors Shop/Post Office where we were told we could get passes at 2E each for the Heritage Park. I still insisted that we turn into the park &amp; we were the only ones there- not a soul to be seen and a little red hut that looked closed. STILL not one to give up I walked right up to the door and gave it a try- and it opened into a little room where you could sign a guestbook, grab a guide map and pay your 2E into a mail slot and we were off on our next adventure!

<u>Bonane Heritage Park</u> was lovely and I do believe that there are plans for future expansion. Everything was well signposted BUT there were a few things that looked as if it was being prepared for future exhibits that I would have loved to know more about. Well worth an hour to 90minutes for exploration, particularly on a beautiful day. Now, with that being said- I do want to give just a quick heads up- it is quite a walk UP to the 3km circular walk start, although there are numerous wood carved benches to rest and it does look as if there is a possibility in season of a wagon ride to the top.

<u>Kenmare fans are gonna gasp here </u>
&lt;&lt;gasp&gt;&gt;
but again we just sailed through without stopping, only for the sheer rest of not moving our legs. This is where DH also asked me if we could please continue driving on some regular roads and perhaps skip the Ballaghbeama Gap. I agreed, gave my pencil a lick and added that on our next trip’s “to-do” list. We headed back through Killarney (yeah- I think he had that planned-LOL) had a Spar sandwich made for us and headed out to eat it in front of Ross Castle before heading on the N22 to the R561 and Inch Beach. We drove up a small road that connected us from Inch to the N86 and up to Camp. I do recommend this as there are some beautiful views and pull outs just before Camp. On to Castlegregory for check in and off to dinner at Tomasin’s Bar where I highly rate the Chicken Kiev! (avg. dinner about35E for 2)

<b>Day 8</b>
<b>Visiting Dingle Town </b>
--AGAIN a beautiful day, almost too hot &amp; why I came home from Ireland with a TAN!
--Connor Pass was really easy this time!
--Wash/fold laundry service 12E

<u>Tim Collins Tour</u> 3.5-4 hours 20E per person (book ahead) GREAT TOUR!
(we booked through Annette at the Shores and she took care of everything for us and all we had to do was confirm the evening before and Annette had the number for us!)

<u>Courtney &amp; Sons Bakery- A MUST!!!!!! </u>
In the side alley next to Tom Mack’s Bar (in direct line to the church clock)
OMG! Scrum-diddly-umptious!!! We spent about 8E on one fresh tomato &amp; Cheese croissant sandwich, 2 huge pieces of Apple cream cakes, 2 fresh scones, a coffee and a soda. Quite a few people on lunch break heading in for something quick really gave us a clue!

<u>Dingle Town</u>is great for people watching and we really had a grand time. Quite a few older gentlemen were out and when I had a moment alone a nice man sat on the wall and talked with me. Mostly repeating ourselves over and over about the weather (we both agreed that my accent was too heavy) The fun began with some shopping as I hunted for the elusive and unheard of sun visor amidst the pointing and stomach clutching laughter- yep, I live to amuse BUT I was really ready for some rain! Hey-too late now but… would I have looked like a total dweeb with an umbrella in the sun?

<u>Headed back to the Shores</u> early and flipped a coin on directions- decided to take a drive out to Rough Point (opposite side of Brandon Point across Brandon Bay) up, down and around all the little side roads and past holiday homes along the shorelines of both sides of this strand. Very worthwhile, lots of places to stop and explore. Small towns, pubs in the middle of seemingly nowhere, more places added to my &quot;to-do&quot; list
DH planned on a coupla Guinness and we headed back to Thomasin’s Bar close to the B&amp;B so I could drive us back easily.

LCBoniti

Dawn -

There is so much good info in this trip report which I will study in greater detail between now and Sept'08. Thank you so much for posting.

Itallian_Chauffer

Dawn:

Loving your report,as always. You and your husband definitely have the &quot;RIGHT&quot; attitude.

By the way -- Did you ever find my elusive Ring Fort in Camp? Inquiring minds want to know ...

Bob

12perfectdays

Hi Bob!
Thanks for the kind comments. For me- having multiple routes or things to do in my planning allows us the freedom to make changes without offending my OCD ways!

As for the Ring Fort in Camp- I saw a signpost as we passed a curve from the N86 and it really comes up very fast! I wasn't expecting it there and boom it was gone.

The interesting thing is that I did NOT see any kind of sign as we headed back through Camp on our way to Tralee. With our longest drive that day we did not feel we could search.

DH and I talked about it and we think next time we would either come up the same road (N86) or as we go through Camp we would turn down, U-turn and come back. (I made notes for next time)

We are trying to work in 3 full weeks next April and (of course) Dingle is on my list for a re-visit!

Dawn

12perfectdays

<b>Day 9</b>
<b>Castlegregory to Oughterard…our 160 mile day!</b>
Need I mention the weather?

<u>Waterfall Lodge </u> <i>40Euro pp </i>
Oughterard, County Galway www.waterfalllodge.net
353 91 552 168 pps: Kathleen Dolly
The grounds at Waterfall Lodge are stunning and a walk about is a must. The house sits majestically at the top of the incline and calls out for picture taking! The house is filled with antiques and we had a nice (albeit extremely creaky) room on the 2nd floor directly above the guest sitting room. The view of the front grounds from our window was lovely and another set of windows overlooked the stream and waterfall and an open window invited the lovely sounds into our room. Breakfast was a choice and while the servings were on the smaller side in comparison to others, it was good and the black currant jam is homemade.
<u>The only complaints:</u> The bathroom was small and the shower was a <u>very</u> small corner stall with a curtain to fight off of your body (think Royal Caribbean Cruise) AND the sink spigots were of the public restroom type- push down for 3 seconds of water, it was kinda like wack-a-mole…hit the hot, hit the cold, hit the hot…hot, hot, cold, cold...well, you get the idea. DH did not like the creaking floors and has no appreciation for well worn antiques. (TWO different Irish visitors told us that this was the best B&amp;B in town) Was it my favorite? – No. Would I stay again? –Sure, the good really did outweigh my few dislikes.
Please note: It is a <u>15 minute walk </u>to town


<u>Day nine</u> The Shores to Tralee &amp; on to the N69 to Limerick, a quick detour at the Shannon Airport, N18 through Ennis to Galway and about 6 roundabouts to the N59 to Moycullen (Connemara Marble visitors center), Aughnanure Castle and to Oughterard. All told about 9 hours including all the stops and 150 miles total. (aaroadwatch.ie was a Godsend on getting through those roundabouts in Galway!)

<u>Dan Dooley and the switcheroo!</u>
I called from my handy dandy cell phone and spoke with Mary at the Main Office. (I had spoken to her a few days before from Glengariff, was told that Killarney airport did not have any automatics to switch and told her I would call back from Dingle about our decision)- well, we WERE passing right by and I WAS running out of juice in the batteries and DH said we should go for it- and off we went. Drove right by Glin Castle due to the time constraint and added that on my TDNV (to-do next visit).

Got to the Dooley drop off at Shannon, (notice we have now been full circle?) emptied the little auto wannabe and hung out with everything piled at my feet. Please note that while we were unloading- about 2 feet away and IN our way- was a brand spankin’ new MERCEDES B150. One of the guys walks up and says- “you could’ve just loaded in, this one’s yours”, well DH tossed everything in willy-nilly lest they tell us it was a mistake! I waited for a note to be made and made them repeat that there was NO ADDITIONAL CHARGE while DH was gunnin’ the engine and yellin’ “Hop in Bonnie before they change their minds!” and Clyde and I were off…
<u>Yep- a brand new, loaded <font color="red">SUV MERCEDES B150!</font> </u>
<i>A moment of silence please in respect of Dan Dooley…</i>

<u>Connemarra Marble Outlet </u>
(353) 0 91 555 746 9am-5:30pm
Moycullen, 8 miles west of Galway on the N59 to Oughterard
Got in as a tour bus was leaving (had the whole place to myself!) and dropped most of the moolah in our pockets on all kinds of things- if you love the stuff, great place to stop BUT be aware that there are other stores all over Connemara that have different things. I of course spread the wealth amongst them all. Had a grand 90 minutes grazing through while himself took 100 pics of the new wheels in the parking lot, running his hand over it and talking to it like a baby.

<u>Aughnanure Castle</u>
9:30a-6p 3E per person
Just past Killarone on the N59 (signposted) also turnoff for Oughterard Golf Course
The closes pronunciation that we could repeat sounded like…awk-naw-nyr
Enjoyable walkabout, great scenery and interesting info. on the history of the area. Worth a stop for those interested and the walk up was pretty with the castle peeking through the foliage.

<u>Dinner at Breathnach’s Pub</u> Good pub food- Guinness &amp; tea, Burger, chips, salad, lasagna &amp; Chips- 28E (big portions!) and time to sit and relax at the B&amp;B and eyeball the budget and future itinerary- “Monk” strikes again

<b>Day 10
DH begs to drive &amp; skip the Corrib cruise I had planned </b>
Well, after being revived from my faint we cancelled having Kathleen call for our cruise time and DH asks where do I wanna go? I show him 6 different places on the map and he takes me to them all! 105 miles and 8 hours of bliss- wherever I wanted…whoo hoo!

N59-Maam Cross, Recess, Clifden, Sky Road, Letterfrack, Connemara National Park, Rinvyle Castle, Gowlaun and the R344 back to Recess.

Enjoyed a stop in the shops at Maam Cross. The viewpoint on Sky Road is awesome and we just sat for awhile on the overlook wall. The National Park has a good video and trails for short or long hikes.
Deliberately got “lost” in Rinvyle and almost turned into an ocean adventure as we ran out of road and into the ocean! (glad the tide was out!)- please make a note- when you do not know where you are going it really isn’t wise to follow another rental car, the people behind us followed for about 10 miles and almost fell into the ocean with us! (Yeah, I know what that finger wave really was) as we both made 18 point turns to get back onto a road! Found the castle (behind lock and fence as private) and so many fantastic views we were on overload!
The drive on the R344 between the Twelve Pins and the Maumturk Mts. was fantastic! Back to Oughterard and dinner at Breathnach’s

<u><i>Day 11 coming soon! </i> </u>
<i>Oughterard to Westport by way of Cong, Killary and the Doo Lough Pass…oh happy day- Misty, cold and overcast!!!</i>

xyz99

Dawn,
Great trip report, and thanks for the directions. We’ll follow some of your itinerary, we’ll stay with Mary at the Bunratty Lodge and Annette at The Shores, but somehow, I don’t think Dan Dooley will give us a Mercedes….Oh, well…

At this point, I’m really praying for good weather. Hope the rain stops – we’ll be there in 2 weeks. Can’t wait.

12perfectdays

well, if a paperclip &quot;accidentally&quot; fell into the...

Just kidding. If there is a possibility of having a choice we really did like the Nissan Micra from our first visit.

You are gonna love Mary at the Bunratty Lodge. Did you decide on the Castle Banquet? If not- I have heard amazing things about a restaurant called the Red Door that is supposed to be excellent.

As for the Shores- perfection...just don't tell me if you get to have dinner there- twice I have missed it
&lt;&lt;&lt;girly pout &amp; foot stomp&gt;&gt;&gt;

Dawn