12 days in Italy
Apr 3rd, 2006, 01:36 PM
#22
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I like Bevagna too, but I'm not talking about it because I want it to stay unspoiled.
If you like art museums, you have to go to Florence, and specifically to the Uffizi, which is one of the great art museums of the world.
Given your interests, stick to your last plan, and, from Florence, do a daytrip or 2 into the Tuscan countryside. For example, take the bus to Siena. Or rent a car.
If you like art museums, you have to go to Florence, and specifically to the Uffizi, which is one of the great art museums of the world.
Given your interests, stick to your last plan, and, from Florence, do a daytrip or 2 into the Tuscan countryside. For example, take the bus to Siena. Or rent a car.
Apr 3rd, 2006, 01:56 PM
#23
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Having just returned from Umbria I will say that the scenery is beautiful. We stayed near Bevagna, in an agriturismo near Gualdo Cuttaneo. My favorite town in the area was Spello, a gorgeous hilltown. I also enjoyed Bevagna, Montefalco, Trevi and Todi quite a bit. I prefer the smaller, less touristed hill towns. Assisi was great, and we loved wondering around the town, but it was definitely touristy, and I'm sure it will be even more touristy in the summer. Of course its touristy for a reason, and absolutely worth a visit if your in the area.
That being said, we took a daytrip to Tuscany, visiting Montepulciano, Pienze and San Quirico d'Orcia and I thought the scenery in this area was quite spectacular. Very open and vast and beautiful. I wish we could have broked up our trip a little and spent a few nights in this area.
Having little interest in many art museums, I will admit that I was bored in Florence after a few days. If you are interested in scenery first, I would probably avoid it. Otherwise perhaps you could include it as a daytrip from Tuscany.
Tracy
That being said, we took a daytrip to Tuscany, visiting Montepulciano, Pienze and San Quirico d'Orcia and I thought the scenery in this area was quite spectacular. Very open and vast and beautiful. I wish we could have broked up our trip a little and spent a few nights in this area.
Having little interest in many art museums, I will admit that I was bored in Florence after a few days. If you are interested in scenery first, I would probably avoid it. Otherwise perhaps you could include it as a daytrip from Tuscany.
Tracy
Apr 3rd, 2006, 02:06 PM
#24
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Franco,
The next time you are in Milano, head straight for Alla Vecchia Latteria-Ristorante at Via dell'Unione, 6. Several years ago, I got off a flight in Milano on a cold day in December with a stomach so bad from the airline food, I just wanted to die. But my husband was hungry, so I agreed to go with him to a restaurant, and I pulled out of my pocket the address of the Alla Veccchia Latteria, since a good friend had recommended it and it was nearby.
We walked into this tiny, tiny grocery store jammed with tables and happy people. We squeezed into a chair and the owner came by and one look at my face and he wanted to know what was wrong. When I explained about my bad stomach and the airline food, he had just the cure: Warm gnocchi -- so delicous! And a feast for my husband. I instantly began to feel so much better, and the owner brought me just the right wine and sweets. On our way back through Milano, on New Year's Eve, we went back for lunch. The owner gave us gratis cakes and wine to celebrate the new year, and more cakes and grappa to take home to the US.
So Italians are so kind wherever you go! And they don' forget you.
The next time you are in Milano, head straight for Alla Vecchia Latteria-Ristorante at Via dell'Unione, 6. Several years ago, I got off a flight in Milano on a cold day in December with a stomach so bad from the airline food, I just wanted to die. But my husband was hungry, so I agreed to go with him to a restaurant, and I pulled out of my pocket the address of the Alla Veccchia Latteria, since a good friend had recommended it and it was nearby.
We walked into this tiny, tiny grocery store jammed with tables and happy people. We squeezed into a chair and the owner came by and one look at my face and he wanted to know what was wrong. When I explained about my bad stomach and the airline food, he had just the cure: Warm gnocchi -- so delicous! And a feast for my husband. I instantly began to feel so much better, and the owner brought me just the right wine and sweets. On our way back through Milano, on New Year's Eve, we went back for lunch. The owner gave us gratis cakes and wine to celebrate the new year, and more cakes and grappa to take home to the US.
So Italians are so kind wherever you go! And they don' forget you.
Apr 3rd, 2006, 02:57 PM
#25
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Yes, that's absolutely true - they don't forget you cause they're interested (really interested, not just superficially) in other people. If we're telling experiences now, I might add the one about my favourite coffee bar in Venice. It's a very stylish modern place, somewhat unusual in Venice, and when I first discovered it, we went there on two or three subsequent days - actually nothing special, just imagine HOW MANY foreign people a barkeeper in Venice comes across day by day. It was more than one year after that till we came back - and they actually had not forgotten us, either!! They greeted us like old patrons (what we've actually become since), first question was: where have you been so long?
Apr 4th, 2006, 04:24 AM
#27
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Don't hesitate to not visit Florence - THIS TIME - if it works best for you. It's a great city, with even greater art, but you'll enjoy Italy all the more if you don't try to cram everything in on your first trip (during a hot time of year, to boot). Tell yourself that you'll be back!
I love the CT, but agree that late Aug. is not the best time of year. (How about a trip in the future, more in the off season, to Florence and the Cinque Terre?)
One thing about Umbria (and we'll be visiting there ourselves again this fall) is that it is less touristy than Tuscany. That means, maybe, slightly fewer English-speaking people, but not so you'd have problems. And there should be fewer people. You could visit only Tuscany, but it's likely to be busier in that part of Italy too.
I also agree to add a day to Venice, as 2 days really means only one full day.
One thing to ask those who are more experts on Italy than I am - what is likely to be closed during the time you'll be there? Restaurants? Attractions?
I love the CT, but agree that late Aug. is not the best time of year. (How about a trip in the future, more in the off season, to Florence and the Cinque Terre?)
One thing about Umbria (and we'll be visiting there ourselves again this fall) is that it is less touristy than Tuscany. That means, maybe, slightly fewer English-speaking people, but not so you'd have problems. And there should be fewer people. You could visit only Tuscany, but it's likely to be busier in that part of Italy too.
I also agree to add a day to Venice, as 2 days really means only one full day.
One thing to ask those who are more experts on Italy than I am - what is likely to be closed during the time you'll be there? Restaurants? Attractions?
Apr 4th, 2006, 05:27 AM
#29
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24th Aug arrive Treviso picked up by relatives stay their place outside Venice
25th Aug Train to Venice and stay 2 full days and nights
27th Aug Train to Florence arrive 1 pm. Look around city in afternoon. Stay 2 more full days and nights.
30th Aug Hire car for 2 nights. 1 day/night in Siena and 1 day/night San Gimignano
1st Sept Train to Rome from ...?
Spend 4 days/nights in Rome.
Leaving Umbria and more of Tuscany for another time.
One thing I am hesitant on is 3 nights in Florence. I could do 2 nights and have a feel for the place but that would only give me 1.5 days to look around. I could use the other day to explore Tuscany though...
25th Aug Train to Venice and stay 2 full days and nights
27th Aug Train to Florence arrive 1 pm. Look around city in afternoon. Stay 2 more full days and nights.
30th Aug Hire car for 2 nights. 1 day/night in Siena and 1 day/night San Gimignano
1st Sept Train to Rome from ...?
Spend 4 days/nights in Rome.
Leaving Umbria and more of Tuscany for another time.
One thing I am hesitant on is 3 nights in Florence. I could do 2 nights and have a feel for the place but that would only give me 1.5 days to look around. I could use the other day to explore Tuscany though...
Apr 4th, 2006, 05:47 AM
#30
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For someone who likes pretty scenery more than art and museums, you've given yourself very little time in the countryside and a lot of time looking at art in museums. (Did the militant "must-do" sightseers get to you on those other travel forums? ;-) )
I suggest that you consider finding a nice play to stay in the Tuscan countryside that is not far from either Firenze or Siena. You can do them as day trips if you feel like it when you get there, or you can head off into the Tuscan and Umbrian countryside every day, where there is plenty of art in small churches and museums. Is there some reason you would want to hire a driver rather than renting a car?
My understanding is that the only time to see San Gim is at night, after the mobs leave, so it's a good instinct to spend a night there. You could then drop off a rental car in the nearest city and train to Rome.
I suggest that you consider finding a nice play to stay in the Tuscan countryside that is not far from either Firenze or Siena. You can do them as day trips if you feel like it when you get there, or you can head off into the Tuscan and Umbrian countryside every day, where there is plenty of art in small churches and museums. Is there some reason you would want to hire a driver rather than renting a car?
My understanding is that the only time to see San Gim is at night, after the mobs leave, so it's a good instinct to spend a night there. You could then drop off a rental car in the nearest city and train to Rome.
Apr 4th, 2006, 06:18 AM
#31
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nessundorma, your advice and persistance on this post has been outstanding and for that I thank you.
If I chose to base myself somewhere in the countryside close to Florence/Siena I would have to train it into Florence first right? Because I am coming from Venice it will already be a long enough trip with luggage then to change over trains and head to "a nice place to stay in the tuscan countryside". Sounds like too much travel for me. So this is why I am leaning towards travelling straight to Florence and settling for a couple of days.
Or do you recommend hiring a car from Venice and driving all the way to Tuscany. Will I lose of valuable time this way? Or will I gain a valuable experience? By the way, I will be driving.
Does a car give me more freedom and cut down on losing time?
If I chose to base myself somewhere in the countryside close to Florence/Siena I would have to train it into Florence first right? Because I am coming from Venice it will already be a long enough trip with luggage then to change over trains and head to "a nice place to stay in the tuscan countryside". Sounds like too much travel for me. So this is why I am leaning towards travelling straight to Florence and settling for a couple of days.
Or do you recommend hiring a car from Venice and driving all the way to Tuscany. Will I lose of valuable time this way? Or will I gain a valuable experience? By the way, I will be driving.
Does a car give me more freedom and cut down on losing time?
Apr 4th, 2006, 06:43 AM
#32
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quinny, this is a little disappointing. Much as nessundorma and I seem to love fighting a little, I think we actually have a common aim - preventing people from doing all the same "big 3", and making them curious to take in something else, too, and I thought we had done our best... nevertheless, have a nice trip!
Apr 4th, 2006, 07:09 AM
#33
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I'm glad to be reassured I'm not a total pest, quinny!
It's a close call. There is much to be said for getting on a train, getting off and feeling settled in Firenze. It's hands down the best option if you think you will resent driving or feel terribly stressed by it.
However, most people don't (the road to Firenze from Venice is not difficult or particularly scenic). I don't think you would lose valuable time by renting a car out of Venice. And you might gain some relaxtion, both en route and because you'd be settling into the countryside.
A car definitely gives you more freedom and flexibility, and luggage is more manageable with a car.
So let's compare the options:
You rent a car in Venice in the morning of the 27th and head toward Firenze. Stop around noon for lunch in a nice small town. Leave by 2:30. You should be in your agriturismo/villa well before sunset. Relax by the POOL with a glass of wine. Dinner at the villa/agriturismo or in the nearest small town, preferably one you can walk to.
Now you have between the Aug 28th and Sept 1 (when you give up your car) to do what you want. That's five days by my count. I'd spend my first day in the countryside, seeing small towns and enjoying the scenery. If I was up to it, I'd make a foray into Firenze on Day 2. That leaves you day 3 to repeat Firenze if you liked the experience, then head to San Gim to spend the night. In the morning, drop your car off in Siena, tour the town, take the train to Rome. Arrive in Rome in time to check your bags and have a leisurely drink and dinner.
If you decided one day in Firenze was plenty, that leaves you an extra day for small towns or the Tuscan beach on Day 4, then head straight to San Gim for the overnight, dropping off your car in Siena by noon. Lunch and tour Siena, then to Rome
OR
Spend day 4 in Siena, your night in San Gim, and then drive through the Tuscan countryside to Orvieto in the morning and drop off your car in Orvieto. See the fantastic cathedral of Orvieto, have lunch, take the train to Rome (only an hour from Orvieto).
To compare: What happens if you do your revised plan?
27th Aug Train to Florence arrive 1 pm. Look around city in afternoon. Stay 2 more full days and nights.
30th Aug Hire car for 2 nights. 1 day/night in Siena and 1 day/night San Gimignano
Well, first of all, you gain the relaxation and security of being deposited into Firenze with somebody else doing the driving, and a Eurostar is quite comfortable.
Second, you get some sense right away whether you want to soak up Firenze non-stop. If you do, bingo! It was the right call.
But if you feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens, you can guiltlessly spend the next two days visiting other places in Tuscany, provided you can get there. (Last minute car rental? Hire a driver? Buses to other towns and wineries? It can be done.) Then you have all those good restaurants in Firenze each night.
As for hiring a car in Firenze on Aug 30th to visit Siena for an overnight, it really doesn't make sense. You won't be able to park in Siena much closer than the train or bus stations. It means you'll be dragging your luggage quite a distance from your car to your hotel, unless you stay outside the city walls, which will be suburban, not country.
However, renting a car on Aug 30th does give you a convenient way to get to San Gim and on your way to Rome. Using your configuration, it makes sense to drive to Orvieto after leaving San Gim to drop off your car and train to Rome.
Hope that isn't too complicated to decipher!
It's a close call. There is much to be said for getting on a train, getting off and feeling settled in Firenze. It's hands down the best option if you think you will resent driving or feel terribly stressed by it.
However, most people don't (the road to Firenze from Venice is not difficult or particularly scenic). I don't think you would lose valuable time by renting a car out of Venice. And you might gain some relaxtion, both en route and because you'd be settling into the countryside.
A car definitely gives you more freedom and flexibility, and luggage is more manageable with a car.
So let's compare the options:
You rent a car in Venice in the morning of the 27th and head toward Firenze. Stop around noon for lunch in a nice small town. Leave by 2:30. You should be in your agriturismo/villa well before sunset. Relax by the POOL with a glass of wine. Dinner at the villa/agriturismo or in the nearest small town, preferably one you can walk to.
Now you have between the Aug 28th and Sept 1 (when you give up your car) to do what you want. That's five days by my count. I'd spend my first day in the countryside, seeing small towns and enjoying the scenery. If I was up to it, I'd make a foray into Firenze on Day 2. That leaves you day 3 to repeat Firenze if you liked the experience, then head to San Gim to spend the night. In the morning, drop your car off in Siena, tour the town, take the train to Rome. Arrive in Rome in time to check your bags and have a leisurely drink and dinner.
If you decided one day in Firenze was plenty, that leaves you an extra day for small towns or the Tuscan beach on Day 4, then head straight to San Gim for the overnight, dropping off your car in Siena by noon. Lunch and tour Siena, then to Rome
OR
Spend day 4 in Siena, your night in San Gim, and then drive through the Tuscan countryside to Orvieto in the morning and drop off your car in Orvieto. See the fantastic cathedral of Orvieto, have lunch, take the train to Rome (only an hour from Orvieto).
To compare: What happens if you do your revised plan?
27th Aug Train to Florence arrive 1 pm. Look around city in afternoon. Stay 2 more full days and nights.
30th Aug Hire car for 2 nights. 1 day/night in Siena and 1 day/night San Gimignano
Well, first of all, you gain the relaxation and security of being deposited into Firenze with somebody else doing the driving, and a Eurostar is quite comfortable.
Second, you get some sense right away whether you want to soak up Firenze non-stop. If you do, bingo! It was the right call.
But if you feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens, you can guiltlessly spend the next two days visiting other places in Tuscany, provided you can get there. (Last minute car rental? Hire a driver? Buses to other towns and wineries? It can be done.) Then you have all those good restaurants in Firenze each night.
As for hiring a car in Firenze on Aug 30th to visit Siena for an overnight, it really doesn't make sense. You won't be able to park in Siena much closer than the train or bus stations. It means you'll be dragging your luggage quite a distance from your car to your hotel, unless you stay outside the city walls, which will be suburban, not country.
However, renting a car on Aug 30th does give you a convenient way to get to San Gim and on your way to Rome. Using your configuration, it makes sense to drive to Orvieto after leaving San Gim to drop off your car and train to Rome.
Hope that isn't too complicated to decipher!
Apr 4th, 2006, 07:25 AM
#35
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Ooops, quinny -- I made a typo!
The paragraph that begins:
"But if you feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens -- "
shoud read instead:
"But if you DON'T feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens, you can guiltlessly spend the next two days visiting other places in Tuscany, provided you can get there. ..."
The paragraph that begins:
"But if you feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens -- "
shoud read instead:
"But if you DON'T feel drawn to museum going in Firenze or walking through its Boboli gardens, you can guiltlessly spend the next two days visiting other places in Tuscany, provided you can get there. ..."
Apr 4th, 2006, 07:28 AM
#36
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Also, to clarify:
If you decide to rent a car Aug 30th for Siena and San Gim, I'm not suggesting you skip Siena. I'm just pointing out that it won't be much use to you in Siena, and something of a nuisance, but it will more easily get you to San Gim, and enable you to head off to Orvieto.
If you decide to rent a car Aug 30th for Siena and San Gim, I'm not suggesting you skip Siena. I'm just pointing out that it won't be much use to you in Siena, and something of a nuisance, but it will more easily get you to San Gim, and enable you to head off to Orvieto.
Apr 4th, 2006, 07:38 AM
#37
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By the way, quinny, I keep having to remind myself you are planning a honeymoon.
Your highest priority should be avoiding arguments with your new spouse. And I'm not kidding. If either of you really doesn't want a lot of uncertainty about what you are doing each day, take the easy route of trains and bedding down in Firenze and taking the town at a relaxed pace, with walks through the gardens.
Ditto that advice if either of you is likely to blow after several wrong turns in the Italian countryside in a rental car. Driving in Italy is fun but wrong turns are inevitable, as is having to park in spaces the size of a closet.
At some point, you will have to decide -- and for Italy, there are always more things to do than you could possibly cram in during six months of touring. Once you decide on your itinerary and make your reservations, don't look back. Just go with the adventure. Whatever you pick, some of it will be brilliant and some will disappoint. You have each other! That's all that matters!
Your highest priority should be avoiding arguments with your new spouse. And I'm not kidding. If either of you really doesn't want a lot of uncertainty about what you are doing each day, take the easy route of trains and bedding down in Firenze and taking the town at a relaxed pace, with walks through the gardens.
Ditto that advice if either of you is likely to blow after several wrong turns in the Italian countryside in a rental car. Driving in Italy is fun but wrong turns are inevitable, as is having to park in spaces the size of a closet.
At some point, you will have to decide -- and for Italy, there are always more things to do than you could possibly cram in during six months of touring. Once you decide on your itinerary and make your reservations, don't look back. Just go with the adventure. Whatever you pick, some of it will be brilliant and some will disappoint. You have each other! That's all that matters!
