10 days in Provence
 

I am traveling to this region over end of December and beginning of January for 10 days. I was thinking Aix de Provence (2 days), Arles (2 days), St. Remy (1 day) and Avignon as a base to travel from (4 days). Any thoughts? We were maybe thinking New Years in Avignon. It is our first time visiting the region so any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Are you aware of the temperature at this time of year? It can be very cold. Many of the small towns which rely on tourism are extremely quiet with many (?all) shops closed. Aix, Avignon and Arles are large cities so these will not be a problem. I think, however, the charm of Provence is its rural nature and this will be missed at this time of year. I was in Nime last November and it was 0 C.

Thanks for the information. I checked the temps and the high/low are not to bad. Last year we were in Paris at the same time and it sounds like the weather will be similar.

Does anyone have any can't miss food recomendations for anywhere in that area?

Hi Kat,

We lived in Provence in 2004-2005 and were there over the winter. I enjoyed it, though it is a different experience than what we have found in other seasons. If that is the time of year you can go, I think there is still plenty to enjoy. Just take a warm coat, gloves and a hat!

Some restaurants and shops are closed in the more heavily touristed areas and smaller villages. But if you focus on larger towns with year-round residents, you will be fine.

I couldn't quite understand your plans. Are you planning to stay in each of those towns for the days indicated? If so, Arles, St. Remy and Avignon are all only 30-45 minutes apart. And if I was going to choose the most central base, I'm not sure it would be Avignon.

Although the Luberon (where we base) is sleepy at that time of year, you would find the Apt market on Saturday likely very active and probably also the L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market on Sunday.

We drove over to Aix two days after Christmas in 2004. (The market there is Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday.) If you want a memorable dining experience, try Les Deux Garcons. However, be careful-- it started snowing while we were there, and we had an interesting drive back over the mountain!

Kathy

I think the choice of restaurants in some of the "tourist" towns will be dependent on which ones will even be open that time of year. A quick check of the Michelin Guide indicates that Maison Jaune, Alain Assad, Croque Chou, l'Oustalet Maianen in/near St Remy are all closed. So is Chez Bru in Eygaliers; L'Estellan, Mas Touteron, & Ferme de la Huppe in Gordes.

Larger cities like Aix & Avignon will have restaurants open.

The Mistral might be a factor.

If Kevin sees your post, he sould be able to give you some first-hand info on what will be open in early Jan.

Stu Dudley

Kat -

Like most things in life, there are good points and bad points about traveling to Provence in January.

RE: WEATHER -

Upside: no problem dealing with 100+ degree temps and no A/C. And can still get lots of sunshine and even eat lunch outside sometimes. And please, please do not even think about comparing our winter weather to Paris. You nearly gave me a "crise cardiac".

Downside: when the Mistral is blowing, you will want to just curl up in bed and go to sleep.


RE: Sightseeing -

Upside: no crowds. I remember a few years back going to visit Les Baux with my Dad in mid-January. Now that I think about it, we had played a round of golf that morning on a nice little course just below the village (take that all you sodden Parisiens !) - then we went up to the village to walk around and have lunch. There was no one there. It was fantastic, in the fantasy sense of the word.

Downside: when the Mistral is blowing, you will want to just curl up in bed and go to sleep.


RE: Restaurants -

Upside: Truffles - they'll be in season - and while you may go broke eating them, what's money for, if not the occasional overindulgence ? Check out the Marché aux Truffes in Ménerbes if you get a chance. And even in the smallest of villages, you will still find restaurants open - us locals do have to go out and eat once in a while (usually when the Mistral is not blowing).

Downside: lots of places will be closed, so if you have your heart set on a particular establishment, call first to see.

Finally, spend New Year's Eve in Aix if you can rather than Avignon. Much better atmosphere.

Enjoy !

-Kevin