10 August Nights in Europe
 

And we’re off – to Europe for a 10-night stay in the middle of August. While not the preferred time of year to visit Europe (we usually like April, May, or November), it was our best option given work and all. The timing steered us north of the Alps in hopes of cooler weather, although our first few days have been quite hot. Our visit takes us to Germany, dividing our time between Berlin and the Rhine Valley; Luxembourg; and London. Our time is allotted as follows:

Berlin – 5 nights
Oberwesel – 2 nights
Luxembourg – 2 nights
London – 1 night

London only for a night, you may wonder? It’s easy to spend our entire time in the British capital and not run out of things to see and do, but we’ve visited numerous time and decided upon a quick stopover for a visit to Buckingham Palace as we would be there when the interior is open to the public. And Germany. We’ve visited once before although we were in Munich and other parts of Bavaria. We’re at our midpoint of our journey as of this writing. Please come along.

Arrival in Berlin

We departed Washington, DC, on British Airways via London on a 10:30 PM flight out of Dulles and arrived in Berlin at about 6:30 PM the next day. We’ve taken the BA flight about a dozen times and are used to it by now. Older 747. Mediocre to poor economy seating. Just passable dinner. Tired entertainment. But it does the trick getting us from point A to point B. The timing is the only plus, as it allows me to work a full day before heading to the airport.

Arriving at Berlin’s Tegel Airport, we immediately noticed how small it was, but also very functional. We were out of the airport quickly. As there are four of us, we traveled to our hotel via taxi.

Our home in Berlin was the Hilton on Gendarmenmarkt, an elegant square in Mitte. The Hilton looks and felt very familiar but also comfortable. We enjoyed the nicely-sized rooms, functional bathrooms, and views overlooking the square.

On our arrival day, we dropped off our belongings, showered and rested a bit, and went down the street for dinner – at Lutter und Wegner, a restaurant specializing in Austrian dishes. We went for the wiener schnitzel, which was cooked perfectly. A good start to our trip!

oh, goody, a tripplanner TR, joining in for the ride.

We loved Berlin and especially Mitte and Gendardenmarkt too, though we weren't fortunate enough to stay there.

keep it coming.

Thanks Ann. Unfortunately I didn't keep up with a near-live report as I've had on recent trips. Next installment coming up shortly nonetheless.

Our First Day in the German Capital

While we try to get outdoors every time we are able during our travels, the four of us also enjoy big cities – and we especially love being able to walk around town, taking in the sights, going to museums, lazying at parks and gardens, etc. In Berlin, it would be no different.

With our trusty Insight Guide, we largely followed several of its recommended walking tours on this first day.

From our hotel we walked past the two churches on Gendarmenmarkt towards Unten den Linden, one of the more famous boulevards in Berlin. We enjoyed a modest breakfast at Café Einstein on the boulevard before walking down to the Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag. The stately gate seemed larger than what I pictured it to be.

We were at the German Parliament at 8:15, thirty minutes prior to our pre-reserved time slot for our visit to the Norman Foster-designed glass dome. The dome was built following German reunification in 1990 as the decision was made to make Berlin the capital of the new country and the old parliament destroyed during World War II and neglected during the decades of Soviet-dominated rule. After checking in and proceeding through security, we were escorted to an elevator that would take us the dome. We spent about an hour at the dome, surveying the city surrounding the building as we made our way up the ramp. We also enjoyed the short exhibit on Germany’s political history on view.

From the Reichstag we walked to the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, a poignant reminder to the millions of Jews killed by the Nazis during its reign of terror in Germany and across the continent. Consisting of large grey slabs of concrete of different sizes evoking the thought of tombstones, it is an important tribute to a horrific episode in history.

From the memorial we walked past the area that used to house Hitler’s bunkers during the Second World War, now a parking lot with no trace of the quarters except for an informational panel discussing its existence.

We continued on to Gendarmenmarkt and its two church domes – the French church and the German church. Between the two churches is also a beautiful Opera House in the neoclassical style. The French church is closed for restoration. The German church houses a very thorough exhibit on the country’s tumultuous political history. We took a short refreshment break on the square before continuing on.

From Gendarmenmarkt we walked through Bebelplatz, the site of Hitler’s book burnings. We continued on Unter den Linden to reach the German History Museum for more on the country’s past. The museum’s exhibits chronical its beginnings up through German reunification. As a politics and history buff, I really enjoyed the museum. We spent about two hours here.

From the museum we made our way past the site of a massive construction site, from where the City Palace is expected to rise again. In front of the site, on Unter den Linden, is another construction project – the building of a subway line that will run through the boulevard in a new underground link between the former East and West. Speaking of construction, I saw more cranes and equipment in Berlin that probably every other city I’ve visited in Europe. The only other city that, in my mind, is home to a similar amount of construction activity is Dubai.

Next up is the Cathedral, bigger and more impressive inside and outside than I expected. We toured the interior of the church and also hiked up to the top for more great views of the city.

Our day continued with another refreshment break followed by a visit to the DDR Museum. The museum tells a good story of life in the former Communist East Germany through numerous interactive exhibits. We spent about 75 minutes here, although we could have spent more if it wasn’t for the large crowds at the site that made it a less pleasant experience.

From the DDR Museum we walked into the Nikolai Quarter for some more perusing. We eventually made our way to Alexanderplatz, from where we hopped on the U-Bahn back to our hotel to relax and freshen up before dinner.

We enjoyed our evening meal at Mark Brandenburg, our hotel restaurant. The food was good and the service even better. It was a good way for us to end of our very full day in the city.

Museums, Museums, and More Museums

Day two in Berlin was mostly about museums. We secured our Museum Pass upon arrival at Tegel Airport as well as timed entry tickets into two of the city’s most popular museums – the Pergamon Museum and Neues Museum – several weeks in advance.

Following a simple breakfast of coffee and pastries around the corner from our hotel at Café La Perle, we walked to Museum Island, the home of five of the city’s state-run museums. Our first stop was the Pergamon Museum, home of the famous Pergamon Altar. The masterpiece itself is out of the view of the public and under restoration over the next several years. Furthermore parts of the museum is closed for restoration as well and a new wing is being built as we speak. We were among the firsts to enter the museum upon opening at 10:00 and enjoyed the magnificent Ishtar Gate among ourselves and a handful of others for a good 10 minutes or so before the place started filling in. It was wow at first sight. The beautiful blue, the animals, the geometric designs – I was not prepared to be overwhelmed. Also on this floor are numerous very worthwhile works from ancient civilizations in what is now Syria, Iraq, etc. On the opposite side of the wall holding the Ishtar Gate is the equally impressive façade of the Temple of Miletus from ancient Greece. On the second floor of the museum is a good collection of art and artifacts from the Islamic world. I’ve always loved art and architecture from this part of the world and seeing the pieces on display here just increased my desire to visit countries such as Iran, Morocco, and Uzbekistan.

Our 90 minutes at the Pergamon Museum was followed by an hour or so at the Neues Museum, with a very worthy collection of its own. We spent most of our time admiring the works from ancient Egypt including the bust of Queen Nefertiti. There are pieces on display spanning ancient Egypt’s long history. The only other place I’ve had the pleasure of enjoying as extensive a collection are at the British Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City

For lunch it was a short hop off the island at nearby Restaurant Jolly, which serves Chinese cuisine. We enjoyed a delicious meal here of mostly dim sum items, although it was hot today and the place seemed to lack air conditioning. The lack of air conditioning is something we noticed throughout our time in Berlin, and it definitely made our time in Berlin less comfortable than we would have liked.

After lunch it was back to Museum Island for a visit to the Old National Gallery, an modest-size art museum filled with works from Germany and the rest of Europe. I spent most time in front of the Impressionist works as they are my favorite.

By now it was about 2:30 and we went for a cruise of the Spree River that runs through the city. After several hours in the museums, we wanted a little bit of the outdoors and a chance to enjoy the city from a different perspective. The one-hour cruise provided a good orientation of the city, although there are not the parade of blockbuster sights that one anticipates on river cruises through other European capitals.

From the bank of the Spree we walked to a nearby U-Bahn station and traveled to the site of the Berlin Wall Memorial. The memorial consists of sections of the former wall as well as photographs and displays chronicling the story of the Wall’s origin; its construction; life before, during, and after its construction; and how much its history and legacy is a part of the fabric of the city we know today. The displays and stories told through sections of the actual Wall, the exhibits at the interpretation center, and throughout the course helped bring the symbolism of the structure and its division to life.

We continued to experience this time in the city’s history with a visit to the East Side Gallery, a section of the Berlin Wall that was turned into an art masterpiece by numerous artists following the Wall’s collapse.

We returned to our hotel following our visit to the East Side Gallery. For tonight’s dinner we chose Borchardt, a French restaurant a couple of blocks from the hotel. Though expensive, the food was of great quality and the service very good. Only downside besides the lack of air conditioning: the dining room was a bit too dark for us.

A Day with Prussian Kings

On most visits to major cities, we try to get out from the urban core and into the surrounding areas. We always enjoy some time away from the city even though we enjoy being in it as well. And it provides us with an opportunity to get a better feel for the region. Today was a day trip to Potsdam, home of Sanssouci Palace, the summer residence of Frederick the Great and other Prussian monarchs.

We traveled by train from Berlin to Potsdam. It’s a quick 25-minute ride on the Regional Express train. Upon arrival at Potsdam’s main train station, there is a bus to Sanssouci Park and the palace itself. The distance between the train station and the park is about 2 miles, so given the nice weather this morning, we decided to go on foot.

We arrived at the palace shortly before our pre-reserved visit time of 10:20. While Sanssouci Palace appeared fairly large from the outside, there are only 12 rooms on the inside. My favorite was the Nature Room, with its beautiful birds and flora. Certainly gave it a feeling that we out on the grounds itself. The Marble Hall was exquisite too. Also unique at Sanssouci are its terraced gardens. We spent about an hour at the place before continuing onto the Orangerie and other buildings on the park grounds.

The Orangerie building offered more exhibits on the life of the Prussian rulers and their families and nice views of the vast grounds on which the palaces sit.

From here we made our way all the way west to the New Palace, the later-built residence that became the home of Wilhelm II, the last German emperor. The interior of the New Palace was far more impressive than Sanssouci itself. I loved the over-the-top Baroque ornamentations found throughout each of the rooms. The New Palace is also significantly larger than Sanssouci.

Also on the grounds are a Roman bath that reminded me of a relaxing Tuscan villa and a Chinese-style pavilion.

The town of Potsdam itself is also worth a short wander if you have the time. We enjoyed visiting a couple of churches as well as just walking around – browsing, window shopping, and people watching.

We headed back to Berlin at around 6:00, just before dinner. We went Bavarian tonight and dined at Augustiner, a Munich-style beer hall offering the typical food and beverage you would find there – sausages, pork knuckles, dumplings, potato salads, etc. The place was lively and hopping with guests our entire time there.

More of Berlin

Today is our last day in the German capital on this trip. We started our day with breakfast at our hotel. The breakfast buffet featured all the typical items you would find at most breakfast buffets at most business hotels around the world, nothing more and nothing less.

Filled up, we walked a few blocks south of our hotel to the site on where the famous Checkpoint Charlie once stood. We visited the Checkpoint Charlie museum and spent about 90 minutes reliving the stories of the Cold War and the struggles that residents across Berlin, Germany, and Eastern Europe experienced during this time. The exhibits also reminded us about the reasons why the post-World War II institutional structures that we have today exist and that we should not take it for granted.

From here we made our way west to the Topography of Terror exhibit that told the story of the rise of fascism in 1930s Germany and the systematic way in which democratic institutions were delegitimized and disassembled in favor of authoritarian rule. Sounds familiar, doesn’t it? I cannot help but make comparison after comparison between the actions of the 1930s and 1940s and the actions of today, which ultimately made the visit, in my view, more relevant and more meaningful.

Potsdamer Platz, once the site of the divisions of the Cold War as the Berlin Wall ran through this part of town, is nearby. We hopped on the subway and headed west to Kurfurstendamm in the heart of what was the former West Berlin. We enjoyed a nice lunch at the top floor of KaDeWe Department Store before an afternoon of wandering the wide shopping boulevard.

Other than window shopping and people watching, our three main highlights of the afternoon was a visit to the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church followed by the Kathe Wohlfahrt store and The Story of Berlin. Bombed during the Second World War and left in rubble as a reminder of the horrors of war, the Memorial Church is a poignant testimonial to the death and destruction of an earlier era as well as the ability of humanity to cope, survive, and continue on.

Not far from the church is the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas store. It was pure joy to be let loose in the store. Everything from the ornaments to the nutcracker dolls and more, I could have easily spent the day here. And I would have done my wallet much damage. Our time in the store, and thus our damage, contained, we continued our walk west.

About midway along the boulevard is The Story of Berlin, a very well-done exhibition of the history of the city through political, economic, and social lens. The curators do an excellent job telling the story from the early days of the city until the present. There is a good balance between art, artifacts, narrative, and video. This is one of the best history museums I’ve visited.

We walked a few more blocks down Kurfurstendamm before making our way north to the Zoobahnhof train station, from where we would catch the number 100 bus through the Tiergarten and down Unter den Linden.

We returned to our hotel to drop off our purchases for the day and freshened up before heading back out for our final evening in Berlin. Dinner was at a pizza joint along the Spree River. We took a walk after dinner, taking in some of the monuments we visited earlier on this trip in full evening colors.

All in all, we had a worthwhile visit to Berlin and would gladly return. We would not put Berlin on a level with London or Paris – those cities compel us more than Berlin did – but we were happy with the memories we made here.

Signing on for more!

Thanks for reading, Trophywife, and for letting me know that you are.


Westward Bound

After four rewarding days in Berlin, it was time to leave the German capital. We departed on a high-speed ICE train from Berlin’s main train station at 6:00 bound for Frankfurt, from where we would connect to Oberwesel, our home in the Rhine Valley for the next two nights.

There are numerous departures throughout the day between Berlin and Frankfurt and we could have easily chosen a later train. We decided to go early to give ourselves a few hours to see Germany’s financial capital before heading to the Rhine. Arriving in Frankfurt at 10:00 we stored our luggage in the available lockers at the train station and headed into the city.

From the train station we walked along Kaiserstrasse until we reached Romerberg, the historic town center destroyed during the Second World War and rebuilt according to the original plans. We visited the main cathedral just off the square as well as Old St. Nicholas Church. We also took a stroll along the banks of the Main River before wandering back towards the train station via the main shopping arteries and the banking district.

We also took a trip up Main Tower for views of the city from above.

Back at the station around 2:30, we hopped on a regional train bound for Koblenz. The ride took about one hour and we were at Oberwesel station just after 4:00. Our home in Oberwesel was Schloss Schoenburg, the 12th century castle overlooking the town of Oberwesel that was ultimately restored and converted into a hotel. We originally intended to stay in the town of Bacharach just upriver but all the options that appealed to us were sold out by the time we were ready to book. In researching alternative options, we came up Schloss Schoenburg and the opportunity to stay in an authentic German castle sealed the deal even though it required a larger budget than I intended to spend.

Settled into our fairytale home we took a tour of the castle and grounds. We enjoyed a delicious set dinner that evening overlooking the town and the river below. Magical!


A Day on the Rhine

With only one full day on the Rhine River, we had no choice but to be selective in how we would fill it. We were interested in getting on the river itself but also wanted to explore some of the castles and towns in the area.

Given our agenda, we began our day early with a nice breakfast at the hotel. From there, we made our way down from our hotel to the train station on foot. There we caught a regional train going upstream to the town on Bacharach. We spent about 90 minutes in town strolling its streets and walking up to a nearby tower for incredible views of the area.

From Bacharach we hopped on a riverboat for a hour-long cruise to St. Goar. Along the way we passed the towns of Kalb and Oberwesel, several interesting castles, and the famous Loreley rock. Unfortunately more ferry than cruise and it being filled to the brim with other tourists, it did not meet our expectations.

We disembarked at St. Goar and headed up to Rheinfels Castle for a visit of the imposing ruins. We spent a good amount of time at the castle before heading back into town. We enjoyed a quick bite in town and also did some shopping.

Done in St. Goar, we hopped back on the train to head back to Oberwesel, where we toured the town’s fortified walls as well as the towers that kept guard over the town. Oberwesel was our favorite of the Rhine Valley towns we visited.

From here it was back to our hotel for some rest and relaxation along with a nice dinner. Tomorrow we’re off to Luxembourg.

To Luxembourg via Trier

Trier is a medium-sized city in western Germany near the border with Luxembourg. To reach Luxembourg from Oberwesel required a train to Koblenz, a bus to a small depot west of the city due to construction on this section of the line, and another train. Along the way between Koblenz and Luxembourg sits Trier, a city dating back to the days of the Roman Empire and also birthplace to political philosopher Karl Marx.

We chose to break up our journey to Luxembourg with one more stop in Germany and chose Trier given what the city had to offer. Upon arrival in the city, we secured our luggage in the storage lockers right on the platform and made our way on foot to the Ponta Negra. Constructed during Roman times, the Ponta Negra was one of the main entrance portals to the city. Well preserved even though covered in soot from the centuries, it was well worth the price of admission. We really enjoyed the opportunity to climb its steps, admire the beautiful interior, and survey the city from above.

From the Ponta Negra, we continued down the main pedestrian drag and to the main city square. Just off the main square is the city's cathedral, a vast structure filled with intricate religious art. Also here is a large beautiful cloister. We spent a good amount of time at the cathedral before wandering onwards to the Elector's Palace.

While the building itself was closed to the public, we admired its facade and its well-kept gardens. A short distance from the palace grounds is the Roman baths, which we photographed from the outside as the site was closed by the time we arrived.

We also passed by the boyhood home of Karl Marx before strolling its pleasant pedestrian streets.

By 7:00 it was back to the train station for another one hour ride to Luxembourg.

All of us thoroughly enjoyed our time in Trier. It was definitely one of the most picturesque cities we've visited on this trip, and it was a lot given that we just came from several Rhine Valley town. It is one of places on this trip that I regretted not being able to stay longer. There's plenty to do in the city depending on your interests.

Hi tripplanner001,

I am thoroughly enjoying your trip report! I want to see the Rhine, and am loving your descriptions of that area. I especially love to read trip reports from folks who slow down and enjoy the trip using public transport!

I have to giggle at our differences of impressions of Trier, though. I spent 4 nights there last spring (drawn by all those amazing historical structures) but found it a little on the grungy & grimy side. Ah well, thank goodness we all don't like the same places ;)

Thanks so much for posting!

s

I like Trier too, some very good wine

The German Paliament building was also burnt down in 1933 ;-)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reichstag_building

I was intrigued by your choice of Oberwesel, until I read about the castle stay. We stayed in the castle, as well! In my mind I had remembered only "St. Goar" and so hadn't made the connection. We all loved it, especially the children (they enjoyed room service--the ice cream was served with the main course so naturally it had to be consumed first!); while DH and I dined in the main dining room.

Looking forward to your Luxembourg impressions. I found the capital city terribly Instagrammable.

Swandav2000, glad you are enjoying the report. Interesting how the same places leave very different impressions on us. I know that sometimes I feel differently about a place myself depending on the time of year I'm visiting, my agenda at the time, the state of mind I'm in, etc.

Bilboburgler, hi.

Fourfortravel, definitely a treat to stay in an authentic castle. Luxembourg was definitely one of the major highlights of our trip, as you will soon read. ;)

A Perfect Day in Luxembourg

If Trier was an unexpected highlight of our trip, Luxembourg took the cake. The day was pure joy.

We began our day with breakfast at Namur, a bakery and pastry shop a couple of blocks from our hotel. When we left our hotel, we immediately noticed the change in temperature. It was 25-30 degrees cooler here than what we had experienced in Germany - perfect for a day of sightseeing on foot.

Following breakfast, we headed to Place Guillaume II and the tourist information center. We obtained a self-guided walking tour map, which would occupy us for most of the day, just as we'd hoped. We tried to obtain tickets for a guided tour of the Grand Ducal Palace, but none were available; no worries though as we had plenty to occupy ourselves.

We followed the self-guided walk that began at Place Guillaume II. Across the square is the City Hall and not much further the Grand Ducal Palace. We admired the building from the outside and continued onwards to Place d'Armes. From there we made our way through the city center streets and over to Place de la Constitution, site of a war victory monument. From here we are able to look over the gorge that divides the upper part of town with the lower as well as its outer quarters. The views were great. We loved seeing the bridges that span the gorge as well as the forest below.

From the viewpoint we walked over to the nearby Cathedral of Notre Dame. We admired the building from its outside as well as its inside before making our way to a couple more viewpoints over the city. From this perspective, we were able to see all of the lower town unfold before us. Truly spectacular! This is what made this city special, in my view.

We reluctantly tore ourselves away from the views and paid a visit to the Letzeburg City Museum. The museum does a fantastic job telling the story of the history of the city and country. I really enjoyed the exhibits and was able to learn a lot more about this place.

From the museum it was back to the gorge overlook. We followed the rim to the Bock Casements for a visit. Luxembourg the city is unique in that it is built on a gorge which divides the city into parts. On the cliffs of the gorge were constructed massive military fortifications. Even though much of it has been dismantled by treaty over the years, we were still able to appreciate its construction and what is left at Bock Casements. It was a treat to navigate the tunnels and imagine a different time. We spent a good hour or so here.

From the Casements we wandered into the Grund or lower part of town. Here we enjoyed a delicious lunch at Brasserie Bosso. The restaurant served a mix of French, German, and Swiss food. My rosti was perfect.

Satisfied we continued our walk through the Grund and into the Petrusse Valley. It's amazing that we went from urban center to the middle of a forest in the matter of minutes. At points we felt like we were far, far from the hustle and bustle. After about an hour of leisurely wandering, we made our way back to the upper part of town for a few souvenir shopping.

We spent the early part of the evening at a carnival that was taking place during our time in the city just a couple of blocks from our hotel. The carnival was like another other with the games, amusement park-style rides, etc. We enjoyed the people watching as well as the carnival treats, European style.

We capped off our evening with dinner back at Place d'Armes. In the square were musical performances on this evening and it was a good way to wind down our day.

In our minds, our short visit to Luxembourg the city was very rewarding and more than what we had hoped for. With more time, we would have liked to get out and see some of the smaller towns and villages, but I'm sure we will return.

We're off to London the next morning for a quick visit before heading home. More later...

Going Home via London

From Luxembourg we flew to London, from where we would head home. We decided to stopover for a night. As AA status holders, we often fly through London to and from other destinations and for this reason have enjoyed time in the British capital on numerous occasions. We could always use more time here, but did not felt short-changed given the frequency of our visits.

We arrived at London City Airport at 9:00, giving us a full one and a half days as we would not depart until 5:00 in the afternoon the next day.

We spent a better part of the day visiting Buckingham Palace and the Houses of Parliament. Given that we were here in late August, we took the opportunity to visit the Palace’s state rooms. All in all, the self-guided visit took about 90 minutes. Unfortunately the place was packed and made the visit less pleasant than it would have been. From Buckingham Palace, it was a short walk to the Houses of Parliament through St. James’s Park. Parts of the Parliament complex is under scaffolding for much needed restorations but it did not detract from the visit. We’ve been inside Parliament on prior visits but manage to find something new to enjoy each time. We hopped over to Fortnum & Mason after our visit - for late afternoon tea. Always a relaxing way to wind down our day.

The following morning began with breakfast at Darwin Brasserie, located on the 36th floor of the Walkie Talkie Building. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast with wonderful views over the city below. Filled up, we walked across London Bridge and enjoyed a nice mid-morning walk along the south bank of the River Thames. We ended our walk at Covent Gardens and Chinatown, where we spent a few hours before heading to the airport for our flight home.

This visit was shorter than most of our recent trips, but it’s what we could have spared at this time. While August is never ideal for our visits to Europe, we made the best of it, even though we sweated more than we would have liked in Germany.

Thanks for joining me on my trip. Looking forward to having you along for another trip soon.

Thanks for sharing, tripplanner001. We, too, were surprised with how much we enjoyed Luxembourg City.

You’re welcome, fourfortravel. Thanks for reading.