Roughing It on the QM2 Transatlantic
 

The first impression of Cunard was at Brooklyn’s Red Hook terminal on July 6th. I don’t know why but I had this absolute folly of an over-the-top image of what the initial greeting would be like. Some Jeeves-like-butler fellow with British snobbery oozing out of his veins and white gloves would extend a warm welcome as we descended from our NYC yellow cab saying “Let me get that for you, sir”. So I was kind of disappointed that a perfunctory NYC baggage handler slapped our baggage check forms on… then we went through a chaotic long line, security check and check-in with as much personal touch as one would get in oh I don’t know Miami International Airport, followed by waiting on chairs in a hangar that would not have been out of place at La Guardia Aiport. Once called onto that magnificent vessel that is the Queen Mary 2, however…

In my opinion, anybody who finds reason to complain about the QM2 needs to come to grips with the fact that they’re extremely spoiled. Let’s just say, it was one of the most magnificent experiences I’ve ever had… I felt spoiled rotten from beginning to end. There’s so much going on, far more going on than you’ll even have time to do! Anyone who’s bored in my opinion truly didn’t try or let themselves be bored. Since there are many trip reports in cyberspace on the QM2, I’ll try to focus on what are the highlights.

1. RADA performances and acting classes. Their renditions of “The Importance of Being Earnest”, “The Spotted Handkerchief (Othello)” as well as the poetry readings… speechlessly magnificent. The Royal Academy of Dramatic Arts should be extremely proud of what talent emerges from their doors. The acting classes were a highlight of the trip… a great way to meet fellow passengers in a very relaxed, open setting… not to mention, an absolute hoot (character development classes where you’d walk emphasizing or under-emphasizing a body part, reading a Shakespeare text)! A lot of the passengers even I felt had budding talent! Everything RADA touched for me was gold… the true pièce de resistance of the journey.

2. The food was stellar. I wasn’t surprised that the meals would be excellent in the Britannia Restaurant, but what DID surprise me was the quality of the dishes served in the King’s Court. What I had expected to be Bob’s Big Boy/Denny’s/Pizza Hut type-fare ended being some often deliciously cooked pasta gratiné with salmon & vegetable… really quite elegant! I recommend getting a table for 8 for supper if you go Britannia, as these will be your main social partners for the next 5 nights. The amount of work and staff that are required for meal preparation, service and clean-up is truly mind-blowing.

3. Dolphins. I only saw one dolphin once in the 10 days of travel (I took both eastbound and westbound crossings), so don’t expect them (there were whales but I missed them) all the time. Nevertheless, seeing it doing croquet hoops out of the water, looking so small beside the QM2, was a truly special moment. I also saw some fish jumping out of the water and this bird that seemed to pilot us the entire journey. Don't go expecting a ton of wildlife.

4. Dances. These were a highlight for my friend, especially since all of them, men and women, are not only incredibly talented and flexible, but totally HOT.

5. Canyon Ranch Spa. $75 extra for the 3 day pass. I’m glad I did this on the westbound as I really tend not to do these sorts of things. Really quite an indulgence, with the thalassotherapy pool, herbal sauna with relaxation music, Finnish sauna, reflexology basins and aromasteam room. The massaging water in the thalassotherapy pool felt great against my back and shoulders. Like I said to a fellow passenger and in the title, “it’s a rough life here on the Queen Mary 2”. I would recommend the spa to people who enjoy this idea of total indulgence… I found I would have rather been DOING something like acting classes or going to the…

6. Gym. Great selection of equipment. Be aware though that things are busy at times and it may be difficult to get on a cross-trainer or pectoral-working-machine at certain hours. I’d recommend getting there early or during the first dinner seating if you want to get on the desired machine.

7. Internet. The one ick… it’s quite expensive to use. $89 for 4 hours, $49 for 2 hours roughly. Although amazing how one can be so well-connected in the middle of nowhere Atlantic Ocean.

8. The water. Only one evening did the waves reach “rough” category. I was surprised, however. Even that day I was not sea-sick, although a bit concerned. Mostly the waves were moderate or slight. Occasionally, looking out at the Atlantic Ocean was just a heavenly vision… very calm with the moonlight creating a streak in the water… or beautifully calm & blue in all directions with blue sky & few clouds at times.

9. Afternoon tea. Absolutely the best scones with clotted cream & jam one could have… come right out of the oven, fluffy and warm. And of course, those rectangular sandwiches with the edges cut-off and little petits-fours to enjoy… along with the tea. Even if the idea of eating between 3:30-4:30 seems strange to you, go! Go! Go!

10. Planetarium. Big-circular screen for films. I’d recommend going.

11. I could say that cliché, it’s the journey not the destination, but in a way the QM2 is a destination in itself. You are travelling with a roughly 55% British, 25% US, but gtruly international crowd, who throughout the journey shares in common that they are seeing the UK, US, Atlantic Ocean and that great boat with you. It’s not like you’re in London or Southampton or in NYC.

It’s hard to believe in some ways that some 100 years ago, transatlantic crossings were going on all the time. The Parthia, the Caronia, the Mauretania, and MANY other names were making regular crossings from Ireland, from Liverpool, from Boston, from Halifax… it was a way of living, it was the height of technology. 50-60 years ago, the magnificent Cunard liners were carrying a who’s who of celebrity… from Jackie Kennedy to Elizabeth Taylor to Pearl Bailey to Burt Lancaster to Charlie Chaplin to Buster Keaton to Laurel & Hardy and many more. Cunard was the height of elegance and sophistication… Nowadays, in our fast-paced world, only the Queen Mary 2 offers this lost and mostly-forgotten tradition via its regular transatlantic crossings. For those of you who the idea of crossing the Atlantic by ocean liner appeals, my advice is not to let yourself get intimidated or embarrassed by those of your acquaintances who say, “Why don’t you just fly? It’s faster and cheaper!” Go for it and I think you’ll be onto a relaxing, elegant secret that only those who bite the bullet get to find out.

*Price, put in perspective* I paid $945 per person based on double occupancy. Think you get 6 nights accommodation for that. How much does on pay in NYC for accommodation: $200/night plus? And RADA shows, how much might one pay for this? 50 pound per show? And meals taken care of, of high quality, how much would that cost over 5 days? Access to a gym and pools, how much would that cost? What about an elegant afternoon tea? Even the Planetarium which is kind of like an IMAX, how much would you pay for these kinds of films where you are? And on top of it, you’re getting, let’s not forget, a ride from the America to Europe! In my opinion, it really all seems rather reasonable.

Great review! Looks like you have a good time and think t is money well spent.

I wish I can take the trans-Atlantic but I think my DW will kill me. She doesn't like sea days all that much. She can handle an occassioanly sea day here and there but anything more than 2 or 3 days in a row, I'm in troube. She likes ports, ports and more ports.

Your internet cost is cheap by comparison. I usually pay anywhere from 50 to 75 cents a minute, depending on the package.

Thank you for such a detailed review. I felt like I was there.

We will be next year !!!Glad I already have reservations, anyone reading the review will be making res, ASAP

Now I want to go trans-atlantic! :)

Me, too!

Im so glad to read your review. I did a xing on the QM2 and it was one of the greatest experienes of my life. If I could afford it I would never ever fly across again but ALWAYS do a xing Its truly wonderful!!!

Maryann--I hope you have as (relatively) smooth and enjoyable a crossing as I had.

eschew, dayenu, socaltraveler-- Thanks for giving a read...

Leanna--Agreed!

One thing I didn't mention was the formality aspect... I found it was one thing that made the ride particularly special; I think a fun anachronism that most people seemed to enjoy embracing-- especially since rare is the occasion in this day and age when people dress up.

If anyone reading is curious about what I did (for their own inspiration perhaps) after arriving in Southampton, this is the link:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-shampton.cfm

Hello Daniel, I am shocked that you only had to pay $945.00 per crossing! A bargain indeed. Like you I miss seeing people dressed up. Even in San Francisco at the better restaurants it is not unusual to see women in jeans (designer jeans with a somewhat dressy top and high heeled shoes but it is not the same, is it?). Thank you for sharing your experiences on the Queen Mary 2!

Really did enjoy this Daniel. Does truly sound like a wonderful time to experience for 5 days. And I've always thought it would in fact be more of "it is the destination" rather than a means to get somewhere. (Much like the Venice Simplon Orient Express we took from Venice to London a few years ago - almost like who cares what's at either end of the trip! It's how we got there that mattered).

Would love to hear some comments about the accommodations when you have time.

The room...

Had two twin beds or king size depending on one's choice. I found the bed very comfortable.

I thought there was more than adequate closet and drawer space for the two of us. Room seemed more than satisfactory in size (miles larger than even the larger rooms I've seen on the overnight train travel trips I've enjoyed!) Fridge, TV, lifejacket and safe were available in the room. Temperature was controlled from in the room. Lighting was good. Bathroom with shower and sink was ours exclusively. Plugs were available (US, UK and European varieties). Self-serve free laundry and ironing facilities were down the hallway.

I got upgraded to a balcony on the westbound with a view between 2 lifeboats (a happy surprise!) but was in an "inside" stateroom on the eastbound. No light entered that inside stateroom. I was near the elevator on the westbound and could hear its "ding"; this may bother some people... but I didn't care really, slept on my good ear. Complimentary chocolates on the bed each night and complimentary sparkling wine on arrival were a classy touch.

Truly, I was spoiled rotten for 5 days! Daniel

Ahhhhhhhhhhh, memories of the QM2. I love that ship :)

"Self-serve free laundry and ironing facilities were down the hallway." - wow, never had this on a cruise! everything else, yes, but never free laundry! this would be great to have on longer cruises.

We've been on the QM2 twice... and still haven't explored all the options offered...
(of course, we don't move as fast as we used to -:)

Dayenu--There was also laundry services where one would pay extra, with dry-cleaning. Trying to save a bit, though, I tended to just use the self-serve washers and dryers myself; I just referred to my map, there were machines on the 4th, 5th, 6th, 8th, 10th and 11th decks.

Gwendolynn, hpeabody--Yeah, I miss the QM2 already...ah well, back to reality!

I have been secretly thinking about you Daniel,even though you never even guessed! I have just disembarked from the cruise prior to the QM2 going transatlantic. I kept thinking of all the travellers who were lucky enough to be onboard. I still tingle with the thought that I have actually travelled on this fantastic ship. I now follow her web cam and GPS website, I am fast becoming an anorack!!!
The 5 day cruise was a wonderfiul experience, I too was on a table for 8, it was so interesting. I plan to do a return crossing in October 2011, what a way to celebrate your 60th.

Daniel,
Thank you for sharing your lovely crossings on the magnificent QM2 with us. My husband and I have had the good fortune to sail on her twice, and she has no match. Just thinking of her is a special pleasure, isn't it?

Thank you for all the helpful information. I have one question, though: How did you manage to book this great, cmparatively inexpensive fare? Any hints would be appreciated.

Hi Hopmere,

I booked the trip via Cunard directly... I noticed on their website that they were offering the $945/per person for a standard inside bedroom (based on double-occupancy) for the 2009 transatlantic voyages and thought that looked pretty swell so just went for it. I noticed the $945 deal seemed to be up even as late as the month of June, but I don't see it on the website now. (That $945/p.p. does not include taxes, requisite service fee and possible surcharge if the price of oil per barrel exceeds a certain amount (that last did not apply *whew* in my case.))

I just now checked their website and didn't see this offer for the 2010 voyages, so it may have been a promotion for 2009 only.

Best wishes, Daniel

route6a--I miss her already; it almost seems she was just a beautiful dream now. :)

martini_dry2-- So, you were on the QM2's Gallic cruise that was prior to the Southampton-NY transatlantic crossing on July 24th? Some of the QM2 cruises in Europe look very appealing. I think a crossing is about as magnificent way to celebrate one's 60th as there could be!

All the best, Daniel

Hi,

We are considering taking the QM2 next spring and are curious about the costs. Is all food and drink included in the fare price? How about activities? What is not included?

Thanks,
S

Food: Fare price includes all food offered in the King's Court (buffet set up for breakfast, lunch and supper), afternoon tea in the Queen's room and the Britannia Restaurant (assuming your fare is for a Britannia stateroom, and not one of the higher end staterooms). Only if you choose to eat at the special Todd English Mediterranean-inspired restaurant (which I never did) do you pay extra...

Drinks: This is a bit tricky but the way I perceived it was if they bring it over to you (exception: after-dinner coffee or tea, still water with meal), you pay for it. And if you drink one of the beverages from your stateroom fridge, apart from the starter complimentary sparkling wine, you pay for it. Be aware that just about anything beyond water and post-dinner coffee or tea in the Britannia restaurant, you pay extra for, including mineral water and 7-up. Alcohol with the exception of the complimentary wine, wherever you get it, will be extra.

However, in the King's Court, in addition to water, tea and coffee, one could serve oneself orange juice and cranberry juice (so therefore, no extra cost).

Activities: All shows (theater & dance) I went to were included in the fare price. Planetarium, gym & library usage, drama classes, lectures & poetry readings in the fare price. Although I didn't used them, using the pool/jacuzzi, playing ping-pong or quoits, all seemed in the fare price.

The only activities I did which were not in the fare price were the spa and usage of internet; anything one does associated with the spa was extra. There were some courses that I saw one had to pay extra for...wine tastings, learning how to make martinis... anything associated with alcohol or classes where one needed some accessory to learn I noticed were extra.

That's about all I can think of...

Have fun deciding! Daniel

And sitting in a deck chair....all snuggly...watching the ocean go by = FREE!!!!!

Thanks Daniel and Leanna..That helps enormously..

A quick follow-up: How about all the other restaurants on the ship (besides Todd English) - like the Golden Lion etc..Do we pay for those also?

Todd English is the only one listed on their site with a surcharge..

Thanks again,
S

The Golden Lion is the only other place I can think of where one gets food (if one is in Britannia class). I didn't go (bizarre as it may seem) but I'd be surprised if one paid extra for the fish & chips there, given that the high-quality Britannia restaurant is in the fare price. Between all the food options in the King's Court (which consists of the Carvery, the Lotus, the Piazza and the Chef's Galley) and the Britannia restaurant, I tell you, you'll have all the food choices you could ever want (and more) in the fare price.

Most everywhere else: Commodore Club, Chart Room, Veuve Cliquot Champagne Bar, G-32 Nightclub, Winter Garden, Queen's Room (excepting afternoon tea, which is in the fare price)... mostly it's beverage service, which you pay for...

Hope this helps! Daniel

Thank you all!

Ah - it has been a wonderful read ... I am going on the Caribbean Christmas / New Year cruise this year - and really cannot wait.

Has anyone out there been on a QM2 Caribbean trip?

Thank you Daniel. This helps a lot.

S

G'day Daniel. Enjoyed reading your experience. One thing I'm interested in is the "dress code" and how serious they are.

We'll be on a 8 week worldwide journey and our sector is UK-New York in August.

I have read many 'conflicting' blogs on the web and I'm not sure what to be packing. Have read ladies need ball gowns and the guys need tuxedo (or suits) - can't see our suitcase having much room for them.

Would really appreciate your advice.
Thanks in advance
Cheers from "down under" :)

Hi jgbg,

If you want to eat in the Britannia restaurant on formal nights (which comes as part of your package), a formal dark suit or tuxedo for men; women wear a formal dress (no pants suit). Some lee-way for formal national dress. This is de rigueur. Even the semi-formal nights for men is jacket and tie; elegant casual nights... jacket no tie. I didn't once see people in jeans, sneakers, T-shirts or everyday urban wear there... I even felt a bit guilty wearing the same black bow tie for each formal night (didn't think to vary the colours) ;).

However, if you don't wish to dress up, you can always either get room service or eat in the King's Court area. Uber-casual is perfectly fine in the King's Court. For Afternoon Tea in the Queen's Room, things are not so strict, but I still felt like I wanted to wear my nice shoes, slacks and a dress shirt for that.

Personally, though, I can't imagine going on the QM2 and NOT dressing up; to me, it is part of the magic of the whole Cunard experience. It may seem a bit of an anachronism, but nevertheless passengers seemed to relish and even participate with gusto on the formality aspect. Perhaps some will disagree with me on this point, but I'd recommend flying London to NYC instead if one truly doesn't wish to dress up (only exception here is those unable/unwilling to fly). I must add that it was in the Britannia restaurant that I met my social companions for both crossings (go for the table for 8!), who provided wonderful memories. Besides, missing the Britannia, you're missing out on a terrific several course meal that comes with the price of your ticket.

If it helps, I got one of these cylindrical "Sky Roll" suitcases for easy transporting of my suits and accoutrements. That, plus one roll-on suitcase and a small carry-on backpack seemed to work quite nicely for me. Otherwise, you may wish to ask a Cunard representative about renting a suit on board; this I can't help you with....

Anyhow, just my 2 cents. Have fun figuring out what you'll do! Cheers from Montreal :) Daniel

G'day Daniel .. thanks for the feedback. We are booked - we are going - yee hah .. no backing out, but why would we, we're so-o-o looking forward to the experience .. LOL :)

Just wanted to make sure that if we did go to all the effort of carting the extra clothing around for 2 months and then "dressing up" for their occasions, that everyone else did as well. I realise you can't compare the two, but we went on a Greek Cruise last year (different liner) and went to the trouble of getting all dolled up only to find half the other people didn't bother! So thanks for your reply.

(Think it has convinced hubby that he HAS to pack his tux/suit.) Thanks for the bow-tie tip .. we'll make sure we pack a few different coloured ones :)

Cheers from "down under" :)

(PS. We were over in your neck of the woods last year as well! Simply loved Quebec!)

hi daniel, thanks for the report. my ex and i sailed 3 times ny to southhampton on the QE2 . our first voyage was at the time carnival i believe bought cunard and announced they were retiring the QE2 but building the QM2. the QE2 was a real ocean liner design: smaller and less top heavy than the QM2 but lacking any grand multi story space aside from the theatres. I understood QE2 was built on the "cheap" as it was felt jet travel would totally eclipse trans atlantic crossings. apparently cunard then had to spend fortunes constantly up grading the ship. some of the commissioned art work was stunning and was rounded out by fabulous historical stuff from cunard collections.

i always enjoyed the captain announcing when we were near the point where titanic went down! we were always able to dump the dress up clothes w/ friend in london as we flew back from heathrow. a return flight was included in our tickets and for $250 the first year we were able to upgrade to the concorde!

we always had the cheapest cabin in the dining room class that allowed open seating. our room steward on the first crossing was a dining room manager on the second and we got a tour of the kitchens. all food came out of the same place and just the setting was different. if lobster was on the menu would could have seconds if we wanted.

we were in our forties and definitly lowered the average age of the passenger list. people were friendly however, but i believe surprised bordering on shock to find an opely gay male couple in their midst.

one crossing we wanted a 2 top ( i think it was a big anniversary). they were very hard to come by and when we didn't get one my ex let the purser know i was suffering ( a white lie) from tourette's syndrome. boy they found a two top pdq :)

cheers
AndrewDavid

Haha

Times have definitely changed on the QM2. I think all of our dining companions and staff in the Britannia restaurant assumed that Derek & I were a couple (I think they thought when we described ourselves "as friends" that we were using the old-fashioned euphemism LOL; we might be Gay, and Derek may be the queeniest thing to set foot on a Cunard vessel since the Queen Mary consort herself baptized the QM1, but little did they know, we really ARE just friends with zero romantic inclination for each other (I'd be afraid what I might catch LOL)). For photo shoots, they would have us squeeze close together and the Asian waiter they had sing me Happy Birthday wearing lip liner hardly looked the straightest fellow himself. It really was all rather hilarious.

Speaking of old-fashioned euphemisms, there were also cocktails in the Commodore Club for "Friends of Dorothy", but the primary meeting place for Gay men seemed to be the spa and the G-32 nightclub. I was surprised for a non-Gay cruise how cruisy things were!

Thanks for sharing your experiences,

Daniel

My crossing in 2007 was so enjoyable that I have booked to cross again this year. Great way to arrive in the UK, then take the train to Scotland for a golfing vacation. I will fly home and deal with jet lag when it doesn't make much of a difference. You have to go.