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Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam

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Jun 20th, 2018, 02:26 PM
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Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam

Cruise on Holland America Southbound June 10 to June 17...

I booked this a week out...Took the assign me an inside cabin lottery... Got a good deck (6) although the room was quite small...not even a full sized chair..just a stool! But I liked the Noordam which I will comment on later.. First the itinerary. Will post a few photos after each chapter as the website crashes when I try to include them in the paragraph..

June 9 Flight day, LAX to Anchorage..via Seattle. Some delay in both flights but made the connection and arrived at the airport 9:30 PM. Stayed at Guesthouse International Downtown..a low end but serviceable Red Lion. Coffee in the morning and free shuttles from the airport on demand and to the train station in the morning for the first train. Stayed there before and pretty cheap for Anchorage. Shuttle driver was kind enough to stop for us to meet the new "Star" who was being fed dinner. It was still light at 2am when I finished resorting my luggage for the next day.
https://www.adn.com/alaska-news/anch...own-anchorage/

June 10 6:45 AM. Anchorage to Seward by Train..
5:45 am hotel shuttle to train station. Booked "Adventure Class". Was able to do a luggage drop for the cruise ship without standing in line, staplers available. Exchanged voucher for ticket inside the stations. Food is available inside the depot and on board. Seats were extremely roomy, you could walk up and down, big picture windows. Snack bar with seating, clean restrooms. I had done the bus transfer previously with the stops along the way. For photographers I think the train is better since you can stand between cars and in the back of train for picture taking. There is some minimal narration but the narration on the ACT bus transfer was much better IMO. We had gorgeous weather with reflective views along Turnagain Arm, sightings of Moose, Dall Sheep and Trumpeter Swans (and of course Bald Eagles).

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529529496

Seward Major Marine Wildlife Cruise.
The reason for taking the early train was to catch one of the Kenai Fjords cruises in Resurrection Bay. I was on the Star of the Northwest with Captain Gary and Ranger Lynn. I didn't book the optional lunch since I was going to be eating for 7 days straight on the Noordam. There is a free shuttle from the Seward Train Station if you're worried about making the boarding time. I booked ahead by calling and got a little discount. I mentioned something about birds to the Captain when I boarded. He kept popping his head out of the bridge to point me in the right direction for puffins etc. We had some Orca sightings as well as the cooperative bubble net humpback feedings which is a special thing. And puffins!

https://majormarine.com/tour/5-hour-...ldlife-cruise/

When I got of the cruise and found the shuttle driver, he was a bit of a d*ck and said he couldn't take me to the cruise port right away, said that he wasn't leaving for 45 minutes. So I walked to the port, and the Kenai Fjords company's shuttle ran past me. Glad I didn't wait since the checkin for HAL took an hour. Had time to grab some food at the Lido Cafeteria before sail away at 8pm.
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-35026395_2475929199099390_471775812136206336_o.jpg  

Last edited by mlgb; Jun 20th, 2018 at 02:34 PM.
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Jun 20th, 2018, 06:10 PM
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Thanks for getting your report started so promptly. I'm looking forward to more!
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Jun 20th, 2018, 08:34 PM
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More nonsense with the website crashing at critical times..but I'll try..
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Jun 20th, 2018, 08:41 PM
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Here are the bubble net humpbacks

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529552236

And Horned Puffins

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529552464
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-bubble-net_cr2.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-horned-puffins.jpg  
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Jun 20th, 2018, 09:43 PM
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June 11 was a full day at sea in the Gulf of Alaska. Not much scenery, a little chilly, just a day to unpack, walk a few laps on Promenade, explore the ship, check out the meal options and visit the excellent library, one of the things I like best about Holland America. The ships TV was playing some documentaries about Glacier Bay and reruns the presentations about the port stops and excursions.

A tip for those new to cruising.. bring a tall insulated coffee mug. Or you can buy one at an inflated price on board when you realize the coffee mugs that most ships have are too short for carrying a cuppa around the decks safely!

Tonight was a 5 course Gala Dinner which doesn't thrill me, but rack of lamb does, so I went. The dining room service was excellent. I went back every night same table, same waiter and assistant. I like fish, and the figured if I ordered it in the MDR it had a better chance of not being overcooked, and that worked out well.

Lido was fine for starters, salads and desserts, including proper ice cream with some good flavors for the first 4 nights, and an array of syrups and toppings. Lido was also good for breakfast..omelet and crepe stations, always smoked salmon and herring available. I tried to sit outside on the back deck when I couldn't get a window table but carrying a few small plates out to the deck is a little tricky without trays. There is a sort of waiter service for beverages, at least for the inside seating.

In the pm I went up to the Crow's Nest Lounge for a talk by the "On-Board Naturalist". He had some good tips for wildlife spotting and answered a few questions. They had their Broadway-style staff production on Gala nights which I don't care for.. so early to bed to get ready for Glacier Bay.

June 12
I was not the only person up on the 9th floor back deck at 5 am. The sun was up and I could see from the TV monitor that there was scenery! I spent most of the day outside, when I wasn't eating! The weather started cloudy with sun breaking through and not much wind. Rangers come on board from 9am to 6pm for narration. At 11am the crew carried bowls of split pea soup around on the decks. Eventually the Captain opened up the bow for the passengers, which is by far the best viewing location outside. There was also an NPS employee on the bow with spotting binoculars. Although he was technically there to survey for humpbacks, there were none. He was also a "twitcher" so several of us bird nerds stationed ourselves nearby so he could point out some of the better sightings, e.g. Arctic Terns perched on some ice chunks, and Kitlittz's Murrelet (try saying that even once).

https://www.audubon.org/field-guide/...litzs-murrelet

Glacier Bay is spectacular even without whales.

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529556096

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529556140

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529556140

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529556140

https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529556140
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-reid.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-lamplugh.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-hopkins.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-marjorie.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-serac.jpg  


Last edited by mlgb; Jun 20th, 2018 at 09:52 PM.
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Jun 21st, 2018, 10:33 AM
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Nice photos - thanks. Cheryl will go crazy taking pictures!
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Jun 21st, 2018, 05:37 PM
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Eye Candy!

June 13 Haines. 6:30 am arrival and 8:30 pm departure.

I went up on deck at 6am to walk a lap on Promenade on the way to my morning coffee, and was greeted by a 2-Eagle welcoming committee on the small boat harbor's seawall. Had some breakfast at Lido and then walked another lap back to my room (in the back of the ship, all of the food is in the front!)

I didn't disembark until 8:30 am and wasn't sure what to do. Talked to one of the greeters about just wandering around looking for birds. He suggested walking about a mile to cross over a low saddle on the Chilkat Peninsula to Mud Flat Road along the Chilkat River. Since it was low tide, the flats would be exposed. A great suggestion, as soon as I crossed the ridge, tons of calling, flying and nesting bald eagles that sort of scared me, to be honest! On the banks of the Chilkat were a variety of wildflowers. This spot is about 20 miles short of the more famous place where the eagles gather by the thousands in the fall after the late salmon run. May through June are good for wildflowers and the bears start showing up in July into September.

After a few hours I went back thru Fort Seward (which was puzzling to a fair number of the passengers..who didn't expect a fort to be a collection of early 20th century wood buildings.) Where's the fort? a few asked. Had lunch on board and then went back out to walk along the waterfront toward town. It started to drizzle as I reached the Sheldon Museum (which I had previously visited) so I jumped on the town's free bus shuttle but only went on stop when the driver pointed out the Haines Brewing Company building. Decided to partake of an impromptu tasting.. $5 got me a 5oz glass of Spruce Tip Ale and another of Ryepinski Porter. Highly recommended. I was served by the brewmaster himself. I told him I wished my capacity for drink was what it used to be. BTW I also heard good reports on the town distillery.

https://www.craftbeer.com/craft-beer...drinking-local

Some interesting history on Mr. Ripinsky

?Colonel? Solomon Ripinsky: Jewish Educator and Civic Service Pioneer of Alaska ? JMAW ? Jewish Museum of the American West

At that point it was still drizzly so I half walked/rode back to the ship (last shuttle is at 6pm).

Very nice dinner, Crab and Shrimp Crostini, Alaskan King Crab Cobb Salad (appetizer portion) and Broiled NY Strip (my only beef of the trip).
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Jun 21st, 2018, 06:52 PM
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Photos from Haines

Looking toward Ft. Seward
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144

Fort Seward Street
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144

Bald Eagles nesting along Mud Bay Rd
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144

Wild Iris
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144

Haines Small Boat Harbor
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144

Beer Menu
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529632144
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-adult-bald-eagles-chilkat-river.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-haines.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-fort-seward-street-2-.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-wild-iris.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-crab-pots-haines.jpg  

Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-haines-brewing-co-menu.jpg  
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Jun 21st, 2018, 09:37 PM
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June 14 Juneau 7 am to 5:30 pm

My prior trip to Juneau I was in the throes of the miserable cold from someone two seats over on my inbound flight (why I recommend doing cruises SOUTHBOUND from Anchorage if you have no plans to do a land tour..you will likely still be healthy in Glacier Bay!) When we arrived in Juneau it was overcast and drizzly so no point in including the Mt. Roberts Tram. They say if you can see the top of the tram, do it. But if you can't, don't bother.

Today I was good to go, so my plan was to take the white or blue shuttle bus to Mendenhall Glacier in the Tongass National Forest, and finally do the short walk to Nugget Falls and go to the Visitor Center. After talking to a few of the booths at the dock, I settled on the "white" bus. Although there is a public bus ($2 each way exact change) it ends about 1-1.5 miles from the park. Prices on the shuttles have risen and may not be better than what you can get with a ship's tour, although you do have more flexibility if going on your own. The current price for the shuttle is $45 plus a $2 fee of some type, $47 total. Juneau Tours is the company you want (the White Bus). Maybe you will get lucky and Archie will be your driver. He gives a great narration each way. Buses run every half hour. There is an elevator up to the visitor center, which has restrooms. Taxi service might save you a little walking from the bus stop. There is also an option to rent a car, but not sure how much time that eats up. Fees for access...In theory a $5 fee is due for access to certain trails and facilities such as the Visitor Center which has an elevator and bathrooms and a chunk of glacier ice. There was a ranger with a spotting scope inside that was trained on some Mountain Goats.

White Glacier Shuttle - Juneau Tours and Excursions - Juneau, AK

I did finish the Nugget Falls trail and saw the Arctic Terns courting and nesting on a peninsula in Mendenhall Lake. On the way back, I ran into another birdwatcher (she had that puzzled look) along the Nugget Falls Trail. We compared notes and it turned out that she and her husband were on the Noordam. Her husband was out searching for the Harlequin Duck which had been reported in the park. We discussed whether we were in fact hearing "furtive" Varied Thrushes al day. I set out for the trails behind the parking lot (Moraine Ecology and Steep Creek) which I had been told might be good for the Harlequin Duck. On the way there, I heard a ranger's walkie talkie about #90-something "actively crossing the parking lot". No luck with my Duck but a Varied Thrush popped out on the edge of the lake. Shortly thereafter I saw green bear poop on the Moraine Ecology Trail. So the bears are out and hungry, and it's likely some of these trails will be closed soon. I started talking to myself and walked quickly back to the parking lot.

Back in Juneau I went to the "SLAM" museum which has an interesting temporary exhibit on the Titanic of the North (SS Princess Sophia). It's a good museum if you have an interest in those. Hours 9am to 5pm Home | Alaska State Museum Juneau

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SS_Princess_Sophia

I was about to board when a few Pigeon Guillemots got my attention near the docks, and as I snapped a few photos, down on the shoreline about 100 yards from our ship noticed my "Lifer" male Harlequin Duck! Truly a beauty that we don't get to see in S. California (or much of California at all).

The Lido buffet had a "Salmon Bake" but quite honestly it didn't look great so I had a few snacks from Explorations Cafe and some soup from Lido, and waited for my 7:45 pm dinner time in the MDR. The dessert was good (Lemon Custard Trifle) and I had some kind of fish (maybe salmon, maybe not) and nice polenta and mushroom fritters.

BTW if you did not have a chance to do a pre-cruise tour in Kenai Fjords, Juneau is supposed to be the best port for whale watch tours. The ship's hired naturalist went on a small-group photography tour and they even had a baby orca playing and breaching, along with bubble-netting humpbacks. However that may be an early season (and unusual) phenomenon... No guarantees with wild things.

Last edited by mlgb; Jun 21st, 2018 at 09:43 PM.
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Jun 21st, 2018, 09:51 PM
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Rain in Tongass
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529642999

Mendenhall Glacier
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529642999

Nugget Falls
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529642999

Harlequin Duck
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529642999

Baskets at the SLAM
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529643300
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-rain-in-tongass.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-mendenhall-glacier.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-nugget-falls.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-harley.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-p1020083.jpg  


Last edited by mlgb; Jun 21st, 2018 at 09:55 PM.
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Jun 22nd, 2018, 08:25 AM
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Thanks, mlgb. Fabulous photos. My daughter and her family are on the Noordam as we speak. Yesterday they were in Skagway on a tour and saw a bear and her cub crossing the road in front of them There are photos to prove it! I've been to Alaska three times and only once saw a bear in Denali. Binoculars were needed.
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Jun 22nd, 2018, 09:29 AM
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How lucky for them to see a cub and mother on the road.. They are just starting to show up I think. It looks like Noordam only docks in Haines on the Southbound itinerary and goes to Skagway when starting from Vancouver northbound.

I don't know when they will do the Chocolate Surprise..probably the leg heading for Anchorage. If they have internet (probably too late today since they are in Glacier Bay today, unless they have a ship's internet package), tell them to check their When & Wheres for it... and don't eat dessert that night! I was in BB Kings when it happened..lots of fun! Haven't mentioned the entertainment but I did like BB King.

Looks like good weather for them in GB today. More good luck!

Last edited by mlgb; Jun 22nd, 2018 at 09:34 AM.
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Jun 22nd, 2018, 11:24 AM
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June 15 Ketchikan 10 am to 6:30 pm

As on my prior trip, my plan was to take the public bus to Totem Bight State Park and hopefully visit one of the museums.

I was up at 8am when we passed Guard Island light at the entrance to Tongass Narrows, leading to Ketchikan. We didn't disembark until past 10 am. Note that Ketchikan has 4 different cruise ship berths. Noordam was at Berth 4 at the north end, across from "Newtown". It's probably a good idea to download the walking tour maps before you leave since you could wind up at Berth 4 while the Visitor Center is at Berth 2. Fortunately the stop for the Silver Line is near Berth 4. The fare is now $2 each way. Many ships tours also go there and you'll be in a big group with an interpreter. There is also an entry fee now if you aren't on tour ($5 on cruise days). The site is ADA accessible. It was a CCC project which repaired and replicated 18th century totem poles. It also has coastal access. Next door is a private site (no fee) called Potlach Park with newer carvings, equally worth a visit.

Totem Bight SHP

I took the Silver Line back into town which takes a different route through the residential area, by the school and library (unless you switch busses as directed by the driver at the Safeway stop). Got off near Creek Street which was swarming with tourists and walked back into town along Park Ave/Bawden/ Although fishing season opened the prior day, I didn't see any signs of salmon. By the time I got to the SE Alaska Discovery Center it was closed (4pm!). Too crowded,walked back to Berth 4 along the boardwalk and bought a cheap T-shirt at Tongass Trading. Tonight was another Gala dinner (surf and turf) but I had surf and surf (asked the waiter to just put the lobster tail onto the fish entree). HAL had their new "Chocolate Surprise" Dessert Parade on Deck 2 that night. I was enjoying the BB King Franchise when it happened. I shouldn't have had dessert! Spoiler alert.. just be there..

https://www.hollandamerica.com/blog/...essert-parade/

We had lovely weather (almost too sunny) in rainy Ketchikan. I just wish there were fewer people in town....
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Jun 23rd, 2018, 10:58 AM
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I am reading your report closely. I appreciate all the great details - thanks!
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Jun 23rd, 2018, 02:04 PM
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Thanks Kathie. I didn't mention that there is a free downtown circulator shuttle that runs ever 20-30 minutes during the season. It hits a number of the downtown points of interest such as the Totem Heritage Center. One of the issues with Ketchikan is that anything "cultural' seems to close at 5pm (or 4!) so you need to plan your visit better than I did. Creek Street is 'quaint' and can be interesting, but it was very crowded late in the day.

https://www.ktn-ak.us/totem-heritage-center

http://www.alaska.org/assets/content...lking-Tour.pdf

http://www.borough.ketchikan.ak.us/D...edule-May-2018
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Jun 23rd, 2018, 03:05 PM
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Trying to post pictures without website fail..

Newtown
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529791303

Tongass Narrows
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529791337

Totem Bight
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529791393

Potlach Park
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529791448

Sailaway Sunset Inside Passage
https://www.fodors.com/community/att...1&d=1529791480
Attached Thumbnails Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-p6150044.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-p6159841-2-.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-p6150008.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-potlach-1.jpg   Alaska Seward to Vancouver June 2018 Noordam-p6160049.jpg  


Last edited by mlgb; Jun 23rd, 2018 at 03:14 PM.
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Jun 26th, 2018, 08:43 AM
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Great trip report !
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Jun 26th, 2018, 04:37 PM
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Thanks Eschew. I didn't talk much about Noordam but I liked it. The BBKing and Lincoln Center Stage franchises give a nice range of live entertainment (I thought the comedians and live productions were pretty awful, btw). Lectures are weak, but the excellent library makes up for that. I enjoyed the 3rd Deck covered promenade (1/3 mile per lap) and all the little spots to sit on Deck 2. It took us an hour to go through the line to checkin at Seward, but getting off in Vancouver was fast (carryon only for 7 days).I thought the MDR food was fine, fish and steak cooked a point, and real ice cream scooped even in the buffet. I never bothered to eat B or L in the MDR. The B in Lido includes an omelet bar, smoked salmon already portioned up, herring, plain yogurt cups, and the coffee was good enough. The small plates in Lido were in a separate section..and often the same as the MDR. That was usually what I had for lunch, plus a dessert or two, and maybe a few things from the hot bar or carving station. Desserts were not as good as Princess, but otherwise I think the food is better on HAL with more variety.

I had two days in Vancouver afterwards, staying in Richmond. I used the public transit (Day Passes are uner $8 Canadian for Seniors) went to UBC, Grouse Mountain, and Steveston. Had some good fish & chips at Pajo's. Prior to Grouse Mountain I had some nice pastries form Cob's and a good seafood chowder (no mussels!) at the Soup Meister in Lonsdale Quay. First night had a very average Pho at a badly-named restaurant in Richmond (Why is it called Thai Son?) YVR and Delta were fine. Ate at Vino Volo right before my flight left (lucky I was in the E concourse). Also a few donut holes from Timmy.

Last edited by mlgb; Jun 26th, 2018 at 04:40 PM.
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Jun 27th, 2018, 08:04 AM
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Thanks for the TR and lovely photos. Sounds like a great trip.
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Jun 28th, 2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by mlgb View Post
I thought the comedians were pretty awful; excellent library; average Pho at a badly-named restaurant in Richmond (Why is it called Thai Son?)
Comedian is personal taste, I never liked any of the comedians on cruises. If they are good, they won't be on the boat is how I looked at it.
I am pleasantly surprised at the library comment. Most ships are shrinking their library. The best library I have seen was on the smaller 680 passenger Pacific Princess. That would be a few years ago now so it may have changed.
The name Thai Son should be a flag right off the bat as Pho is Vietnamese. Richmond is famous for their varied Chinese cuisines from North to South. Unfortunately, Pho is not one of them. I find that Pho in Vancouver is marginal at best. Phnom Penh located at Chinatown is very popular with the locals. I have heard that the best Pho in Canada is in Edmonton where a lot of the Vietnamese gathered and settled.
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