Vieques Trip 30 November--7 December
 

Hi, This was our first trip to Vieques. It will definitely be a "repeat island" in the future, but next year it is St. Lucia, Bonaire and St. John (at 65 we are going to keep clicking them off as long as we are able).

We fly out of Sioux Falls, SD. We left a day after a blizzard (some remote areas still do not have electricity) afraid we were not going to make it to Newark to stay overnight. It was either stay in Newark or San Juan in order to caught a flight to Vieques and arrive at a reasonable hour to be met with our jeep. We stayed at the Airport Marriott which was very easy and cheaper than we could have stayed in San Juan. Also, my husband has gone on research trips to Puerto Rico which has given us "tourist time". We arrived in SJ at noon, took a taxi ($20) to Isla Grande, and hopped on VAL for an on time flight. I don't think we saved any money by doing this, but the time for the return trip was better.

Snorkeling
We went to Vieques to snorkel. We went to Grand Cayman last month to snorkel and was very disappointed. Vieques did not disappoint.
BUT, conditions can make all the difference and maybe that was the problem on GC for us. We went snorkeling every day we were there--sometimes morning and afternoon. I will try to give directions to where we snorkeled on our favorite two beaches.

GREEN BEACH
Our favorite. We did it twice. Take 200 to Green Beach. After you turn to GB, stay on the beach road until you reach a fence extending across the road. Take the path along the fence (about 20 yds) to the beach and take a left. To get to the spot where we snorkeled, you will need to walk about 1/2 mile. You won't mind. It is a beautiful beach (totally deserted) with interesting shells. You'll come to a few rocks by an inlet flowing to the mangrove swamps. Walk through water that is about thigh high until you come to another large group of flat rocks (algae on the top) extending into the water. We snorkeled from shore line to about 50 yds out. We hit the jackpot for the best snorkeling day we have had in the Caribbean. We had just barely entered the water when a very large baraccuda lingered near us. A minute later a shark (4-5 ft.) was swimming by us . Almost immediately three beautiful, spotted eagle stingrays started going around and around us. I think they are the most beautiful creature to watch as they glide through the water. They weren't scared of us and they allowed us to swim quite close to them. During the four hours we snorkeled we encountered at least 5 different rays .It was a thrill to suddenly see them appear again as we looked around. We feel the fans were the in the best condition we have seen in the Caribbean along with some beautiful brain coral.
Another shark circled us which didn't make us very comfortale. A dive shop employee told us we saw either the resident nurse or tiger shark . I can't say we stayed around for a positive identification!! It was fun to explore because there were lots of deep crevices to open sand area. An absolute delight and pleasure. And priviliege. I'm so grateful my husband enjoys it with me because I am more passionate about the underwater beauty. This beach will forever be in my memory because of the hundreds of waving fans and the spotted rays.

Blue Beach
What an introduction to Vieques snorkeling. Even though we liked Green Beach better, the first time I had a glimpse of the waving fans, I was thrilled. Our spot was reached by going to the extreme end of blue beach which was the rocky point without a beach. We went to the left. We also saw a shark here, but he was in a deep crevice and didn't move. Also saw a huge lobster in another crevice. The fun of snorkeling for us is the element of surprise. My husband watched as a large school of grunts circled around and around me. All I could do was laugh out loud because they were so close to me. At both green and blue, one could get very close to the fish and the coral by swimming along the rocks. Again not a person around.

Red Beach

Same road as to Green Beach, but not as far. We had to share RB both times we were there. Picnic tables and shelters are spread along a beautiful beach. We swam out to the little island a short way out, but it is not worth the effort. Go to the left side of RB. We didn't think it compared to G or B. The second time we went the waves were stronger and we couldn't see very well.

The Island across from the Malecon at Experanza
We swam straight out from the dock and to the left. We were told later that the snorkel boats go all the way around to the left for the best snorkeling. We enjoyed this spot very much. We would do it again. I'm sure we missed some other snorkeling sites which is why we must go back.

I want to add that we are not good swimmers. We wear a flotation device that I ordered on the net. Caneel Bay had them the first time we stayed there and we were hooked. We would not go out as far as we do without them. Our daughters think we maybe aren't the smartest or the most cautious when snorkeling. I did think of that when we were so totally isolated on the beaches of Vieques.

Lodging
We split out time between Casa Ladera and Nyita Linda. They were very close to each other in Isabel which I didn't know when I booked. We like to make some of our meals and have a little space. Both were nice, but the two gals that own CL are there every day and keep it in nice, attractive condition. We rented a jeep from them which we kept the entire week. NL is directly on the beach while CL is a short stroll. We did eat at Media Luna. Small servings. This may sound really dumb since ML is supposed to be the best on the island, but we had lunch at Bananas after four hours snorkeling at GB which I enjoyed much more. It might have been because we were completely starved. We sat and looked out over the Malecon with beer, fresh fish sandwiches, homemde chips and fries and wonderful key lime pie. It was wonderful. Another day the two experiences could be reversed. Just like snorkeling. We did like the french bread we found at the bakery directly across from Media Luna.

Biobay Tour
We did this with Island Adventures. We were afraid this was going to be a washout like Stringray City was in GC. I don't think it is to be missed if you go on the days without the moon. We had a beautiful, clear night. I kept thinking while in the water how much my grandkids would love the experience. Watching the fish dart around the boat was exciting. We really enjoyed it.

Final Thoughts.
We really liked Esperanza compared to Isabel. Totally different feel. I looked and looked for a place to stay, but all advice was that it might be too noisy.

The island is beautiful in our opinion. It was fun to try all the roads, get lost and try again. I kept thinking what a wonderful honeymoon destination for those that want to go off and be totally alone.
I'm truly grateful for another wonderful adventure.
.

For some reason, I couldn't go back and edit and correct. Sorry for the mistakes. That has never happened to me before. Owa

Owa, thank you, thank you, thank you! This is just the kind of precise feedback I was hoping to get, particularly about the snorkeling locations. I'm so glad you had a wonderful time in Vieques. You seem to be developing quite a list of islands to visit, but I hope you get back there soon.

No doubt I'll post more questions to you as my trip draws near, but I'm going to cut and paste your report into a Word document. Compiling the info ahead of the trip is half the fun!

P.S. I forgot to ask you what web site you used to purchase your snorkel vest.(are they bulky to pack?) I think it might be a good idea for our granddaughter, who is not quite as strong a swimmer as we are. Thank you.

Ejcrowe, The belt is called Hydro-Tone Flotation Belt.

hydro-tone.com/hydrotone.htm

Go to products and you'll see it on the right hand side--about $58. It is very light. We only take a carry-on with everything we need. I have learned to get by with very few clothes. It beats losing luggage for days.

I hope you experience wonderful snorkeling
when you go!! Owa

Fantastic report! I'm glad you liked Vieques. We discovered it a while ago and keep going back for more. Also, great directions to snorkeling sites.

Also, a couple of questions: Did you snorkel to the island off Blue? Also, at what end of Blue were you snorkeling, the end closest to Red or past the picnic shelters?

ccc, No, we did not go to the island by Blue beach. We were going to do it on our repeat day, but it was too windy. We were way past the shelters and Red beach. It is a long drive to the extreme end through pot holes and water on the road. Past the 20ft tower on the left side as you are driving towards the very end of the main road.

We never did find a very good map. Many times it was trial and error, but fun.

Hope that helps. Owa

Really enjoyed you trip report. Brought back fond memories of our two trips to Vieques. When we went to Green Beach it was high tide so there wasn't much beach or we weren't in the right place. Did you snorkel by Mosquito Pier on RT 2oo just past the airport. Never saw so many starfish--Hundreds. We did the Bio tour with Island Adventures too. Really great. We also liked Bananas and La Serina next door. Was the Blue Macaw open. Heard they had a kitchen fire months ago. Thought Media Luna was good but as you said more like tapa portions and a little pricey. Crows Nest was good for steak and we really liked Chez Shack but the chef left and don't know what it is like now. Shame Bayaonda closed. It was one of our favorites. Where are you thinking of staying on St Lucia?? We were at St James Club about 2 years ago. Reaffirmed why I hate AI's. Best part of the trip was going home. Thanks again for a great report.

Howard, we looked and looked for Bayonda only to find out it had been closed. We had heard excellent reviews and wanted to give it a try.

We are going to stay at Jalouise on St. Lucia. Purchased a pacakage on LL. I have wondered if it was a wise purchase after reading negative reviews. As someone just posted, they have been better lately. If the rooms are clean, I can tolerate most other problems.

Do you have some trips in the near future?

Have a great Christmas Howard, Owa

No Firm trips planned yet. Probably split a trip back to Barbuda with some time in Antigua. Also looking at Virgin Gorda and Anagada as well as Tobago. So many islands so little time. Have a wonderful Xmas season and Happy travels in 2006 !!!!

owa,
I just read your Vieques trip report. Sounds like you had a wonderful time. I also just saw your post from way back in August looking for me regarding lodging in Vieques. I have a few questions for you if you wouldn't mind emailing me directly. Email is [email protected] - thanks so much. Sharon

Loved your report. My son and I may be going down to PR in late January. I was thinking of him snorkeling off of Culbera Island. Have you heard about conditions there compared to Vieques?
you can email me or repsond here [email protected]
thanks

msalzbank, We didn't make it to Culbera. If we go back, we will try to get there. Have a great trip. Owa

msalzbank,
Last Feb we did a trip to both Vieques and Culebra. I really think they are very different islands. We liked them both, but really loved Vieques. The snorkeling was excellent on Culebra - especially at Tamarindo and Carlos Rosario beaches. The variety of fish and quality and color of the coral was incredible! You do have to hike both beaches but its an easy walk. The seas were very rough last Feb and unfortunately that hurt the visibility significantly. And some places, it was very difficult to even get in the water because of the waves. We rented a boat on Culebra for 2 days and had a blast! That was a great way to get out to the good snorkeling spots.

Owa, I enjoyed reading your report and will be printing it out to use for our trip next year. A question about the kayaking bio bay. I don't know how to kayak, although I have sat in one and could barely balance. I can't imagine climbing back in after swimming in the bio bay. Was it hard for you?

Good Morning Maggi,

We didn't kayak on the Biobay, but I have read reports of others that have. Sounds like fun, but like you, I would worry about getting back in and you definitely want to get into the water. Whatever you decide don't miss this experience.

We keep talking about our Vieques trip. We had so much fun. We are going back next year sometime. My only question is where we will stay.

Good luck in your planning. Owa

Owa, I take it you were on the electric pontoon boat? Were you happy with doing it that way? Was it easy to get in and out of the water?
Thanks in advance, Maggi

We have been on the pontoon boat with Island Adventures several times. It is very easy to get on and off. There is a ladder with about 4 steps on the back of the boat. The give EVERYONE a float belt before getting in the water.
Some have stated they did not want to have to do it with a crowd, but the guys who run it are SO knowledgable about science. You will learn so much on the drive over and the drive back. Also if you are staying in Esperanza, they will drop you at your Inn on the way back. (I guess that is for the folks who took a taxi there).
Have fun.

I, too, did the pontoon tour and was very happy that I did. My shoulders couldn't have taken the kayak tour!

I agree with mahobaygirl--the guys doing the tour are very entertaining as well as educational. And while out on the boat you get a mini tour of the stars, too,

Getting into the water from the boat and back out again would be difficult only for people with mobility issues. It is just like climbing a ladder out of a swimming pool.