Re: my concerns about our travel time to get to some Caribbean locations: I plugged in sample dates for travel to Grenada. While it wasn't as bad as I thought it'd be.....it's pretty bad.

Awake 2:30am to leave for airport at 4:00 to arrive by 6:00 for 6:50 flight to DFW or Memphis. Layover/flight to Miami. Layover/flight to Trinadad & Tobago. Overnight T&T, then very early morning flight to Grenada. Outgoing, there was no way to avoid the overnight. Good news is that incoming could be done in a (very long) day.

It's not that we can't/won't do it, but boy, it's sure one of my major concerns when trying to plan our perfect vacation.....

If you can get past the poverty issue, you are describing Jamaica. It is beautifully lush, has many places to explore, has the blue ocean/white sand, is full of culture and full of excellent cheap food AND you can drink the water. I would not suggest AI there so you can stay casual the whole time. YOu can find some excellent trip reports here on different types of properties and varying amounts of exploring. I have travelled there several times and find the people to be friendly, warm and very helpful. It is typically one of easiest islands to fly to also. You should be able to get some great deals in your time frame.

Since you have a 12 day time frame, perhaps spliting your vacation between two destinations would be an option. Air Jamaica offers an "island hopping" option, flying into Montego Bay, and continueing on from there. This is from Air JA's website:
"Stop Over For Free In Jamaica.
Only on Air Jamaica can you jet to two islands for the price of one. Just stop over free in Jamaica on your way to Barbados, St. Lucia, Cuba, Grand Cayman, Bonaire, Curacao, Grenada, Turks & Caicos or The Bahamas.
It's Air Jamaica's Island Hopping Program."
You did not specify where you live in the midwest, but if you're near Chicago,(heck,even if you're not), you could do an overnight park and fly and leave your vehicle at the hotel.
Air JA's flights leave every day from Ohare at 6:15AM, and arrive in Mobay at 10:05.
I'm sure you could find a resort to match your criteria somewhere on Jamaica, and fly on to another destination. I hope your vacation will be an enjoyable one

We recently vacationed in Grenada and I agree with the other posters that if you want the real Caribbean - this is it. Our travel time was not bad at all. We connected to the US Airways non stop flight from Philadelphia which only takes 4 1/2 hours. Note that it is only available on Saturday, however. You can read my reviews in my trip report.

I am a West Indian - I have lived in Dominica, Barbados, Bermuda, Antigua and now the British Virgin Islands and I have been almost every island in the Caribbean from the Bahamas in the north to Trinidad in the south and I must say that I am truly offended by the sentiments expressed by Ejcrowe about so-called poverty in the islands. It really irritates me to see how some people go to one or two islands as tourists for a minute and feel that they are the know-it-all on life in the islands. Well let me tell you, the opinions expressed by Ejcrowe are completely devoid of any proper understanding of our West Indian life. We thrive on simplicity, the simpler the better. Ejcrowe is speaking as if we islanders are living in the dark ages. This is 2004! And the truth of the matter is, save for islands such as Haiti and the DR and to some extent Jamaica where political and economic issues have made life tough for some, the average West Indian CAN afford more than just the basics in life - we eat our belly full every day and with lots to share with our neighbours, we have clothes on our backs, shoes on our feet and in more than the the average case, a roof over our heads with the usual amenities - as you would find in the so-called "luxurious modern resorts".We are well-educated, articulate and our societies are progessive. The arts and culture are alive and well in the islands. So to say that for the average first time visitor there will be a "very uncomfortable line of demarcation" is utter nonsense to say the least. None of my many friends and relatives from the US and elsewhere who have visted me in the many islands we have lived over the years have expressed that to me. Why would they return time and time again if that were the case? We do not need a television set in every room in our house or a car for every person in a household to feel as if we are making it. Neither should we be judged because we live in a chattel house - you cannot judge on that basis because all may not be as it seems - get to know the people on the inside of that house and you will understand what I mean. We have never been a materialistic people - so if we are being judged on that basis then I suppose some of us will never measure up to that "American" standard -not that we will wish to. Of course, there are the have's and the have nots, beggars on the streets, vagrants etc just as would obtain in every city and town in the great USA and in every other country on this planet - and these social ills are in my view no more prevalent here as they are elsewhere. But to say that a tourist may spend more money in one day on umbrella drinks than a local family may have for its weekly food budget" is more than ridiculous and displays Ejcrowe's ignorance about the reality of life in these islands. It makes me wonder how much time EJcrowe has taken during his travels to the islands to mingle and interact and get to know a little something about the locals before sounding off on this board - very little if any time it seems to me or he/she would not be making such brash statements. Too busy staying walled up in his/her "luxurious modern resort" to care.

My point to the original poster is, as a potential first time visitor to these islands, please do not be put off by Ejcrowe's comments and do not come here expecting poverty striken islands as this person would have you beleive because that is simply not reality. By all means visit us, but judge us by the beauty of our lands, the friendliness and charm of our people and your abilily to enjoy a peaceful, hassle-free vacation. If you wish, I can tell you about any of the islands I have lived in and I will also be able to tell you about Grenada which you seem keen on, as I am going there next weekend.

Thank you very much Enya, for giving your (knowledgeable) perspective about what life in the islands is truly all about.

I always have to laugh when I hear people talking about how "poor" the West Indian people are when most have a life that is so much richer than any of the tourists who never bother to leave their resorts will ever know.

True, most West Indian families do not have fancy cars and flashy jewelry and large, expensive homes.

Neither do they have $25,000 racked up in credit card debt, two huge car payments, a mortgage they can barely meet, an hour-long commute on busy smog-choked highways, and spoiled children who are only concerned about their next pair of $150 tennis shoes and trip to the mall.

What they do have is a lovingly-home-prepared meal every night with ALL of the members of the family around the table. They most likely have a home that is paid for, or that is in the process of having additions or improvements made as they can afford to pay for them - as opposed to racking up a bunch of debt to hang over their heads.

They have a network of friends and neighbors they have likely known all of their lives, and know never to pass anyone on the street without speaking to them.

They have a sense of family and of God that we had once here in the U.S. that is probably lost forever.

We have friends in Tobago who visit the States every year. These are hard-working people who have regular office jobs, and also use their car as a taxi to make a little extra so that they can travel. They are leaving for New York next week to visit relatives.

My husand and I so yearn for the riches that these "poor" people have that we are determined to save enough to be able to buy or build a small house on one of the two islands we have chosen. We hope to regain some of what is truly important in life which so many people have lost sight of.

It all depends on what your definition of "poor" is, I guess...

Hi--I vote for Anguilla too, based on my two trips there. The island itself is not as pretty as some other Caribbean islands, but it has the most gorgeous talcum powder white beaches you could ever hope to find. We stayed at Rendezvous Bay Hotel last January and are planning to go back again next February. It has a very interesting history--see their website, www.rendezvousbay.com and read about Jeremiah Gumbs--and is relatively inexpensive, with a devoted band of regulars who've been going there for 20 years. I love Anguilla for its exceedingly friendly, hospitable people, its quiet, laidback atmosphere (not much to do there but swim in the most incredible perfect turquoise water, eat at wonderful restaurants, from little shacks on the beach to fine dining, and poke around, chatting to the islanders). We flew to St. Martin and took the ferry to Anguilla.
On my first trip there I was alone, and I could go anywhere on the island, day or night, by myself, or go swimming on a deserted beach, leaving my things on the sand without worrying that they'd be gone when I got back.
Rendezvous Bay Hotel is on the best beach on the island, and you can walk to Cuisinart from there to eat--the food at Rendezvous Bay is also quite good. It is not as glamorous as the other hotels, but makes up for it with much lower prices and an exceptionally friendly and helpful staff.
They have "garden rooms," which are the cheapest--which are basic and not air-conditioned--and villas, which are fancier, air-conditioned, and more expensive. I stayed both times in the cheaper rooms, and they were fine--but that was in December and January. I had such a good time there and met so many interesting people. My husband liked it because there was no shopping, malls, casinos, or cruise ships. However, they are in the process of building an upscale golf course, and the island may soon lose its unique flavor, so get there fast before it's ruined. Two of the fanciest, most exclusive resorts in the Caribbean, Cap Juluca and Malihouanna (sp) have been there for years, because of the truly spectacular beaches--we're talking $US1000/night in high season for those place!
From your description of what you like, I think it would be perfect for you. One day trip we took was to go over to the other side of the island, find Calvin, who hangs out under a tree near a restaurant there, and have him take us out in his boat to a secluded little beach called Little Bay, I think. He dropped us off there and we went snorkeling. After an hour or so he came and got us. The snorkeling wasn't too good that day because of windy weather and roughish seas, but it was lovely to be all alone with the pelicans in the little cove--there are lots of deserted beaches like that around the island that you can visit if you rent a jeep (the roads are often a challenge!)
We spent the vacation in bathing suits and shorts, and even when we went to fancier restaurants, we wore our old, fairly ratty undresses (me) and shorts (hubby). At Rendezvous Bay we ate family style with the other guests at a big table and met some really interesting people--the ones who go there every year and practically run the place. The manager wanted to set up separate tables, but the regulars insisted on family-style. It's kind of a home away from home in a tropical setting. Hope I've whetted your appetite!

Oops-I meant sundresses, not undresses--it wasn't that casual!

Enya,

I think you're wrong in your response to ejcrowe. I think you completely misread the intent of the message.

Hell, people can spend more on umbrella drinks in a night at a resort than my family's weekly food budget! Why on earth would you deny that possibility, or have a problem with it?

From my reading, ejcrowe's point about "no obvious poverty" was EXACTLY the same as yours. That the absence of extraneous luxuries is not the same as poverty.

On the other hand, its wrong to generalize and homogenize all the islands. Every island home does not have a home cooked feast every night. There are islands where there is real poverty, you mentioned a few yourself, and some of these islands have very luxurious resorts. I think it would take a very callous person to not feel uncomfortable with conspicuous consumption in the midst of poverty. There are places in the US where I would not feel comfortable vacationing, and there are islands where I would feel the same for the same reasons. Hens4th was correct IMHO to recognize this possibility and ask for recommendations. And ejcrowe's point was to beware what you consider poverty, the standards are not the same as you might be used to... the same message you were delivering.

You make some good points, and I think hens4th should keep the distinctions you and ejcrowe have made in mind.

Anyway, hens4th, have fun and best of luck in your research and I hope you succeed in finding your perfect caribbean vacation.

Ken in Mass

Hens4th, it may be risky to join in on this thread now but I wanted to offer some advise. I'm not going to comment too much on the "poverty" issue except to say just be respectful. I always considered myself a visitor to their island. I don't mean to sound righteous, but I personally never measure wealth in income or possessions. We found the locals to be quite inviting and good people. You know, palm trees, warm weather, great food, no snow, no traffic and a slower pace.... I couldn't help but think they probably had it right.

Anyway, to answer your question. It sounds like you have a similar taste in vacationing. My wife and I had a unique opportunity a few years back. Due to a mix-up at the ticket counter, we were offered free tickets to where ever the airline flew. The only draw back is the counter was closing in 15 minutes and we weren't about to risk loosing that offer the next day with a different ticketing agent. We always wanted to go to the Caribbean, but thought it was too expensive. So we actually asked the agent, "okay, which Caribbean island do most people like best?" She asked what we like to do (which is what you described) and said, "you might really like St. John." A month later we were sitting on a completely empty tropical beach watching the sail boats in the turquoise water thinking "yep, she was right."

St. John has no high rises. No traffic lights. No "night life." Just a laid back atmosphere, awesome beaches and great food. It is our idea of a vacation. We stayed at a little villa called Coconut Coast Villas. The villa over looked the coast -- in fact we fed the birds on the shore line from our second story balcony. The room was very airy and completely had that Caribbean feel. Best of all, it was cheap! Only about $800 for the week if I remember correctly. We rented a Jeep for the week (which you'd want to) for around $250 and drove to a different beach each day to go snorkeling. The beaches are small inlets and all but one were empty ? and that was in February! The only crowed beach was Trunk Bay which which is were the cruise ships from neighboring St. Thomas has day trips. But even then the crowds weren't anything like most of Florida. We'd spend all day at the beach then walk to town from the villa for dinner. We loved SJ so much that we ended up going again that same fall (this time paying for the flight)!

We also went on a snorkeling tour around the BVI while we were down there. Now I had never snorkeled before going, but now love it!. If you don't want to snorkel, you can also just take a boat tour to the other neighboring islands. Figure about $125 pp plus tip. There is also a lot of hiking there if you?re inclined. 2/3rd of SJ is a national park you know.

As far as travel time, I think you can plan on a full day of travel where ever you go in the Caribbean. Our flight left at 8 am, then arrived in ST around 4. From the airport we took a crazy taxi ride to the ferry and cruised over to SJ. We were in our villa before dinner. It may have taken most of a day on both ends but worth it by far.

The next year we had a trip planned to Granada, but being right after 9/11 the fight was cancelled. We then rebooked for St. Lucia. It was also very nice. It was quite a bit different from SJ but very nice. Much more lush and mountainous. The rainforest where awesome, but the snorkeling not as good. It was fun to see a British influence. There were only a few Americans at the resort and a lot of French.

I think our next trip back will to SJ again.

Y'all have been so very very helpful.....it's time for me to leave my thread here and start doing my research.

Re: the "poverty issue": forgive me for starting anything.....most of you will understand that I only mentioned it in the same sense I would ask about, say, NYC: there are areas in any big city that we should stay away from, and from my little bit of reading I figured that there are also islands where the locals have "issues" where they are less-then-happy to deal with travellers/Americans. Since our Caribbean vacation next year is probably a one-shot-deal, I'd of course prefer to travel to where we'll meet islanders who might also be happy to meet us.....

I messed up in '01 and accidently provided hubby w/the perfect vacation in Hawaii. North Shore Oahu, affordable beachfront cottage, spent our days driving around the island stopping at different beaches, day trips to Honolulu/Wakiki, we grilled our own bought-off-the-beach fish and ate at local eateries, and went days without dressing in more than cover-ups over our swimsuits. Heaven on Earth for us. So you can see I'm under a bit of pressure to get it right for a Caribbean vacation too.....

So, what I'm planning on researching based on y'all's very excellent information:

St. John: I had no idea! It sounds so us! I always thought of the USVI as too "commercial/busy/American".

A Windjammer cruise combined w/a stay on any "port" island: it has just captured my imagination. I think hubby and I are really sailors at heart, who've just been landlocked in Kansas due to some evil warlock's spell.....

Anguilla. Beaches - water - people - food. Gotta check into this.....

Grenada. (also St. Vincent/Grenadines). Again, have just captured my imagination. The "real" Caribbean, not homogenized "Americanized". I just have to weigh my desire for an "adventure" against the distances/hassle to get there. And, you know, for first/only-timers, how much adventure can we handle?.....

I'll be bothering y'all again with more questions as my research progresses.....thanks so much.....

To Enya in particular and other Fodorites in general: I apologize for having given offense to you in my earlier reply to this post. I didn't mean to start anything with my caveat to the OP concerning poverty in the region. What I intended for my post to say, and what it ended up implying now seem, upon second reading, to be two different things. I grew up in rural Mississippi, and believe me, I have witnessed poverty that some folks wouldn't believe could exist in an allegedly First World country. Most of the time I was fortunate enough not to experience that poverty first hand.

My first trip to the Caribbean was to St. Lucia, and it was the only time I have ever stayed in a place that could qualify as a luxury resort--the Jalousie Hilton. We only left the resort twice--once to have dinner and another time on a daytrip. On the daytrip, I saw many housing situations that were comparable to the living conditions I saw growing up in MS. And yes, knowing that these homes were just outside the gates of my resort made me uncomfortable because the line of demarcation between the "quality of life" of the tourists and that of the locals was harsh. But, as others have pointed out, that was only the OUTWARD quality of life. I soon learned about the health care system on St. Lucia, and the educational system, and the retirement housing--all of which were provided to ALL St. Lucians, regardless of income. I began to appreciate their self-suffiency, especially compared with most Americans.

The line that so offended Enya, about the umbrella drinks, actually came up in a conversation with the one true friend I have made in the Caribbean--a friend with whom my husband and I keep in touch during the year, and who we always visit with when we're in Antigua. He has worked as a bartender in a high end resort on the island, and it was he who observed to me that some tourists spend more in one day on their bar tab than his wife budgeted in a week for their family of four. He left his job at that resort and became a taxi driver, which is how we met him in the first place.

So, maybe I am "devoid of any proper understanding of West Indian life," but I am striving not to be. When I travel to the Caribbean, I like staying in hotels full of regional charm. Places that are going to give something back to the community rather than rack up more money for the parent coporation. The only place that I've ever returned to, the place that is starting to feel like a second home, is a small, family-owned and managed 20-room slice of heaven. It could not be called a luxury resort by any stretch of the imagination. My favorite thing to do, next to reading on the beach, is talking with the hotel staff either on duty or going out with them afterwards for a drink. If I were more of a party person, I imagine I would meet more people, but honestly, I like to be in bed before 10:00 at night. 9:00 is preferable.

And Enya, as for generalizing, you definitely have me beat. I used qualifying words like "some" and "might be". You apparently know exactly what gender I am, how many islands I've visited, what kind of place I stay in, and what I do when I'm there. You're wrong on all four accounts. I try to be well-informed and I fully appreciate the cultural richness that the whole world should thank the Caribbean for. As a reader, I value the literature of the region more than any other creative form. And it is through reading that I am trying to develop an even deeper appreciation for the West Indian culture. I am not a perfect traveler and I do not doubt that I will unintentionally give offense somewhere else along the line. What I would hope is that somebody will educate me, not upbraid and insult me. So Enya, perhaps we could meet sometime during my future travels to the region, and we could sit down over a beer or other beverage of your choice. I get my back up about US Southerners the same way I got your back up about West Indians. I would bet that you and I aren't of such divergent opinions after all.

Respectfully,
Emily J. Crowe

I am so glad that EJ has posted her response to Enya.

I have wanted to write *in defense* of EJ....but knew that she would speak well for herself and she has !

Thanks EJ for your always thoughtful posts on this board, and thanks Enya for your thoughts as well.

The written word, especially in this context...after all we are all strangers to each other...can often be misunderstood. But we all do our best to communicate and to be helpful. I don't think for a *nanosecond* that EJ was being judgemental.

Enya...I think you should take EJ up on her offer to meet :-) ! you are both women with similar views of our world a and that's a GOOD thing !

Marion

To Emily - EJCrowe

I wanted to say that I truly appreciate your response on the "hot topic" and want to apologise if my response to your initial posting came across as harsh. It certainly was'nt intended although I guess I did get a little hot under the collar after reading your opinions and so my response might have reflected some of that heat. At the end of the day, I am nothing more than a darn proud West Indian woman who more than appreciates that despite the many trial and tribulations we face in our daily lives this side of the planet, we sure do have alot to be grateful for and I would'nt live anywhere else - so I will always stand up in defense of our region and I realise as seems to have happened here, that I might get a little carried away sometimes in so doing. But its all good and I would more than welcome an opportunity to meet and greet you on one of your visits to our islands and chat over some libations - I see from a little research I did after I made my response to your initial posting, that you have been to Antigua and the BVI - both are my adopted homes as I live in the BVI with my husband and my parents in Antigua - born in London by the way, to West Indian parents. So the next time you happen to be in the lovely BVI, email me ahead of time at [email protected] and let's get together! Have a great day.