St John Trip Report
 

In as much as I knew I would write this trip report, I was a little reluctant because it certainly is not a typical STJ experience of multiple beaches and snorkeling. We did what we like to do and had a phenomenal time. I hope you can appreciate it for what is was, our vacation.

Let me start with Gallow's Point. We thought this was a top notch place. One of the things we loved the most about it was having the space as we have always stayed in tiny rooms. We had the Upper Harbor Loft and it was great for us. That said, if the noise from the ferries will bother you, stick with the Ocean View. We enjoyed watching the activity of the harbor. 10C ans 11C are the best Harbor Views as they are right at the point. We initially asked for 10C when we booked in November, so we were happy to get 11C since we booked on short notice. It offered ocean views to the left and harbor view straight ahead. The C side is better too view the ocean because there is privacy lattice separating the C and D units. The service there was very good and our room was always cleaned early in the day. Gallow's Gourmet Market has a nice selection of things to tide you over until you get to a bigger market as well as spirits. They also have video and DVD rentals which we did a couple times with our "comfort comedies". They will also book dinner reservations or whatever you might need. The grounds are beautiful with lots of Bouganivilla (sp?). Would like to mention that there is pretty major construction going on just down the road next to Lavender Hill. The hotel will be called the Grand Bay Resort. On to the vacation...

Uneventful day getting here other than making our connection in Philadelphia with nine minutes to spare to board. Made the 4:00ish ferry from Red Hook. As soon as we got on the ferry, we saw a sea turtle. We saw another very large sea turtle sticking it's head out of the water on the way to JVD. Check in was a breeze, so we headed to Zo-Zo's to watch the sunset with my first ever painkiller. After that we went to town and had some appetizers and dirty martinis at the bar at LaTapa. BTW, the escargot are excellent!!! Back to Gallow's for a night jacuzzzi. The stars were a sight to see. Nice end to a long day of travel.

Went for a so-so but convenient breakfast at JJ's texas Toast Cafe. Lots of chickens which we got a kick out of. They seemed to like my toast. We then got a taxi and went to Trunk Bay. I had to see it as it is our first trip to STJ. In spite of the complaints of the crowds, it is very beautiful and worth seeing if you have never been to STJ if just for a peek. We also went to Cinnamon beach for awhile today. I loved watching the pelicans. We then decided to walk around Cruz Bay a little to get our bearings. Had some snacks at Woody's. Later that evening we ended up at a little local place called Sosa's for "one" and ended up being too late for a nice dinner so just went to the Beach bar and ate casual again.

Felt a little lazy this morning and had gotten quite a bit of sun the day before, so we decided to do a little shopping in Cruz Bay. I can barely drag my DH into a store at home, but he loved the little shops in CB. Found a watch that morning at Coral bay Jewelers (in Cruz Bay) and just wanted to mention the busuness because the owner is very nice and an honest businessman. Later stopped at LaTapa for escargot but ended up at Morgan's Mango for dinner which was not bad. It was DH choice. Time for another jacuzzi under the stars and an early night for New Horizon's II in the morning. Back later to finish....

Thanks for the good, detailed report. Looking forward to the rest. By the way, is the construction on the road towards Cruz Bay-- or the opposite direction? (We'll be in unit 3) We're scheduled to be at Gallows in early December (will be 4th time)-- but I'd be hesitant if there's much noise. (E.g. I couldn't "do" the harbor side-- tho I agree that watching the traffic can be fun.) Haven't been to St John in a couple of years, and I kind of dread going because I keep reading abt all the building. But we sure do love that island.
Glad you enjoyed your vacation! (The jacuzzi is new since we've been to Gallows. I wonder if they've upgraded the pool. It was not impressive.)

I'm greatly enjoying your trip report so far. Lots of nice details to round everything out. Looking forward to hearing about your daysail when you get the chance.

poss, No worries, the construction is down the road nearer to town, just on the other side of Lavender Hill. We couldn't even hear it from the Harbor Views. Sometimes it was a pain to walk past as there is a lot of heavy machinery. I was surprised to see the jacuzzi also as I don't remember seeing it on the website. It is smallish, but has nice strong return jets. I don't think there were any updates to the pool itself, but it was clean. Looks like they made a little man made sandy beach area. Very small but cute. I take it you have stayed in 3C before. I have read that it is one of the best units as it juts out a bit for a better view. Think we will just miss you when we go back. Guess I gave that away already!

New Horizons II. In a word, awesome. What a great day, I was so relaxed on that boat. A family of six cancelled last minute so there were only ten of us on the boat! Lots of room. They said their capacity is 18 if that gives you an idea. It was overcast all day which may have been a blessing in disguise since it is pretty much an 8 hour day in the sun. We got to The Bath's early before the crowds which was nice. The swim in was rough with big swells and we basically got thrown onto the shore. I used one of those "noodle thingies" on the way back and it was much easier. Most of the ladies did. Had a nice lunch at Pusser's, then a snorkel spot. I think it was Camenoe Island or something like that. Guana Cay was too rough this day according to the captain. Jost Van Dyke was fabulous, painkiller at The Soggy Dollar Bar was the best of the vacation. I knew onw hour there would not be enough, more on that later. We picked up some Uncle Joe's BBQ on the way home from the ferry dock and called it a day. I have to say, the Captain and First Mate, John and Peggy on NH II were great and really made our day special.

Are you getting bored yet? This is the day that nothing went right, at least during the day. We started out by getting a dinghy for 1/2 day. The water was way too rough for my liking and we ended up turning around and coming back. DH would have perservered, but in the end thought we did the right thing.We pretty much lost our money on that one. Oh well. So, we then decide to take the $1 Vitran Bus to Coral Bay since plan A was aborted. We saw them all the time in town and were assured that they run the same route every hour give or take a few. I have no regrets since I at least wanted to see Coral Bay, the views from Bordeaux Mountain are stunning, but I wouldn't recommend it. We decided on Miss Lucy's for lunch. Our worst meal of the week, but it may have been our choices. Other people we talked to liked their food. The goats were entertaining and as soon as we got up from the table, a male goat went and helped himself to our leftovers. They probably aren't as entertaining to the staff! Went to wait for the bus near the top of the hour and had to wait on the curb for almost 1.5 hours for the darn thing to come back. There were a mom and daughter who had the same silly idea as us and we chatted with them while we waited. Had a late dinner at Zo-Zo's watching the lights of STT. Food was quite good here, but not over the top.

Weather looked iffy this morning so we just went to the pool/beach at Gallow's. In regard to the weather for the week, it was very good with a couple of mainly overcast days but only scant rain. No complaints. We actually found the pool/beach area to be quiet and relaxing in a pinch. The sun came out later today and the rest of the week was heaven. Later went to the Managers Party for Hors'Derves and drinks. Our neighbors in 11D invited us to their table and we had a nice time conversing with them and watching the sunset. Got a pizza later from Ronnie's and stayed in for the night.

Up early for the ferry to JVD. Definitely the highlight of our trip. On the way, we did have to drop off passengers in West End Tortola and clear customs there, but it may depend on how many vessels they have. Our ferry left late (surprise!) at 8:45am and arrived in JVD by 10:05am. Took a taxi over to White Bay Beach. You really feel like you are in another place here! Soggy Dollar had a "buffet" for lunch and the pan fried flying fish was excellent. We also walked the beach and went to Seddy's One Love Bar which is very unique We had until 3:00pm to catch the ferry back and no stop in Tortola. We were in STJ and cleared customs by 3;30pm. Tonight we had dinner and it was the best meal of the vacation. The grilled Caribbean lobster blew away Zo-Zo's, very tebder. The mussels in whatever sauce they came in were the best we have ever had. So sad, the last night.

Uneventful, but long day home. We have decided that we will return the end of this November and will be staying at gallow's Point again. We loved funky Cruz Bay and all of the dining choices. Next time we will try to get to more of the beaches, the BVI's took up 2 full days, but I have to admit, we really loves the BVI's and will definitely make it there again. I will also have more meals in to be more budget minded, there are just so many nice places to go. In the meantime, time to start watching for good airfare!

Thanks ej, think I was still doing my pathetic typing while you were posting. Also, sorry for the typos, I tried to edit, but apparently it didn't work. The restaurant referred to in the last day excerpt is The Lime Inn. Loved that place.

Thanks for the very interesting and detailed report. Makes me want to go and hang out in Cruz Bay.

CW

Hi Brenda! Welcome home! I am glad you were able to finally get to STJ. It is a favorite of ours, but the construction is somewhat concerning. The island is quite congested the way it is. I can't imagine what another resort or two is going to do to the congestion. Yuck. It certainly is a beautiful island. I was awestruck my first trip in 1991. I am glad you were able to experience JVD and White Bay....it is a step back in time and the way many, now overdeveloped, places were in the Cariibbean. Laid back with irie vibes....plenty of rum, sun and sand.

Brenda,
Glad to hear that you had a good trip.The place that you mentioned Sogo's was our best meal.Sorry that you got there too late for dinner.

I cannot wait to go back and also go to the British Virgin Islands.

Christie

thanks so much for the great trip report! i can't wait to go in june! :)

I am really enjoying your TR. I love,love,love White Bay. I think I could be dropped there and left for a while!
Soggydollar does have the best Painkillers. If you took one of their cups it has the recipe. When I made them at home they were not as good. Then I remembered how creamy they seemed at SD so I put it all in the blender!! There's the answer, get some nutmeg that comes in the grinder and you can pretend you are there!
We also had a terrible meal at Miss Lucy's, also the staff was rude.

Uncle Joe's BBQ, the best!

Also, we were on Culebra this past weekend and went to Flamenco Beach. I had heard it was calm, so was surprised to find a huge surf, almost unsafe in one area. We asked someone who had spent a lot of time there and they said that there was a storm out to sea causing the rough surf. Perhaps that is why you experienced rough surf at the Bath's.

I very much enjoyed reading the rest of your trip report. Glad to know you liked it so much that you've already picked a return date. You've definitely convinced me that the next time I go to the BVI that I will have to devote some time to Jost. My husband stayed there about 15 years ago in a little villa that had no electricity and loved it--he's afraid he won't recognize it if he goes back now. But even with all of its new mod cons, it sounds like the right speed for me.

Thanks everyone,

CW,
Cruz Bay is not for everyone but we liked it alot. It had just the right amount to keep us busy. The one thing that did bug me is the number of larger delivery type trucks that barrel around most of the streets.

Brett,
You are right, I think that the Grand Bay Resort will have a signifigant impact on the Cruz Bay congestion. It is well, big, considering the size of the property that it is on. With a little luck, it will not be open before we return. They have a ways to go and who can predict island construction.

Christie,
Where is Sogo's? I don't think that is where we were at. It is a blue building called Sosa's and seemed to be more of a local spot. The guy sitting next to me was from the Dominican Republic and didn't speak English and DH bought him a beer. He then proceeded to whisk me off to the "dance floor" for a spin. It was pretty funny.

Jackie,
I'll be looking forward to your trip report when you return!

Soggy,
I love, love, love White Bay Beach too!!!! Think I could be dropped off there as well for a while. Next time, I am going to get to Ivan's. We started to walk over that "goat path" to go there without shoes and didn't realize all of the rocks on the other side, so we went back. Maybe you are right about the surf at The Baths. As soon as were tossed on shore, it was sucking us back out. We tried to time it better. Definitely took on some sand in the bathing suits.

ej,
Just wanted to mention if you think about staying on Jost, we were to told to look into The Perfect Pineapple Guest Houses run by Gertrude. We were talking to the bartender at Seddy's, she recommended them. Said they are fully A/C and have TV's. They are set back off the beach from what I saw, but look cute from the outside.

Great to read your report!! We're headed to St. John in less than 2 weeks, and we are so very excited. We too are going to head over to JVD for painkillers too!! This will be our first trip ever to the Caribbean... :-)

Thanks for your trip report! I still have a few months before returning to St. John (Oct.). My husband and I also enjoyed the New Horizons II a few years ago. You're lucky that the family of 6 cancelled - when we went we had a full load so it got a little tight. We also really enjoyed La Tapa when we were there last Oct. the paella for two was awesome! Thanks again - Susan

Brenda,

Thanks for a wonderful trip report. I enjoyed every minute of reading :-)

You and Gary certainly needed this respite, and it sounds like you did everything *your* way :-) Isn't that a good feeling ?

Welcome home...and soon it will be countdown time again :-)

Mariom

Brenda,
Sorry I meant Sosa's...was it beside Conrad Sutton's or across the street from Conrad's?

We ate at a small place beside Conrad's and danced at a place across the street.I may have the name's of the places mixed up.But one of them was Sosa's.

Christie

It was just past The Stone Terrace and Everyting if we were walking into town from Gallow's on the right side.

I do not know where Stone Terrace is.I do know where Everyting is and the place that we went was near there.

OK...I finally figured it out.We ate at Sogo's (which was our best meal)they have West Indian type dishes.

We danced at Sosa's which is across the street a little ways down from Sogo's.;)

Christie

brenandg,

Thanks for your comments about Gallows. We are staying there in June for 2 nights before we move into our villa. I requested a loft unit in unit 10 too! It seemed like it was the best located of the harbor view units. I'n glad to hear that you liked it.

-Bill

Bill,
Just a little tip about Gallow's Point. Our information said to call and let them know which ferry we were on. Of course the cell phone didn't work and when I got the exact change to make a phone call on STJ, it asked for 15 cents more to connect which I didn't have. DH was with our bags. The moral of the story is to go check where all of the taxis are at the ferry dock and look for the Gallows Point taxi. They try to go to town when the ferries arrive. They were already there. This isn't sure fire, but worth a try. The walk isn't that long, but there is a hill and it would be a pain with bags. I hope you enjoy your short stay there. We thought it was nice.

brenandg,
Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, I think Gallows is going to be a great spot to recover from our overnight flight and get a feel for Cruz Bay.
-Bill

Bill: I hope you get to try the snorkeling from Gallows. Really quite nice. Not the very best on the island, but really good anyway. The best snorkeling off Gallows is right in the middle of the boat traffic-- the good sized reef in the middle of the harbor area (but out far, kind of off the point at Gallows), but if you're uncomfortable having to watch out for boats, the snorkeling out off the "beach" is ok too. Have fun!

poss,
Thanks for the snorkeling tip. 72 days and counting!
-Bill

Brenandg...I think you were sitting next to us at Miss Lucy's!! {We --4 of us -- ate there around noon or 1 pm on Thursday 3/30} You had soup that you said was "slimy" and hubby had roti?? You asked us how our food was {we liked it} and then the goat came over and ate the roti right off the table! Was that you?? Great report...will post mine soon. Small world if it you guys were the couple next to us.

DebitNM
I damn near fell off my chair when I read your post!!!!! That had to be us, even though it was Wednesday. I did say my soup was "slimy" (Calaloo) and DH did have Roti, it had to be us. I just looked at my pictures. Did one of you have on dark sunglasses and a white long sleeved blouse? Also one of the guys in a striped polo shirt? If so, I have pics of you. Our food really was terrible, glad you liked yours. I should have gotten the crunchy fish sandwich. BTW, we were the ones who were ready to hitch-hike with just about anyone to get back to Cruz Bay! Very small world, I am sure we are who you are referring to, just too much coincidence to not be so. I can't wait to read your trip report!

Yes, that was us...guess I got my days mixed up...not hard to do when you are in paradise! Debi

I may be the only one not to know but where is JVD and White Bay? Sounds wonderful!

JVD = Jost Van Dyke. One of the British Virgin Islands. White Bay is one of the bays surrounding the island.

Brendandg: I've been on a trip (China) for a while and am so happy to read all of these great, fun reports. My only regret is you and DebitNM didn't have the best experience at Miss Lucy's. Oh well, maybe both of you caught them on a particularly bad day as you were there at the same time! That's the best part of the story... sitting right next to, met in the flesh a fellow Fodors poster! I'll have to tell poor Guy (chef and owner) gently that he lost some points there. So glad the rest of your trip was to your liking. Hope it provided some of the much needed spiritual salve. Best wishes.

tuxedocat,
Thanks for your thoughtful response. I cannot believe that a Fodorite was sitting next to you in China! How long were you away?

Brenandg: Sorry! I was talking about your experience of meeting a Fodorite. As for my China trip, this was probably the 6th or 7th time we've been to Asia. We honeymooned in Hong Kong and it remains one of our favorite cities on the planet. This time we were there for about 11 days total and were there mostly to visit friends who are on sabbatical at Hong Kong University. We did make a side trip into China (Shanghai and Hangzhou). All very nice, everything went very smoothly. The best part was how well my 3 year old did on the 16 hour direct flight to and from JFK.

tuxedocat,
Think I must have had a "blonde moment" on that one and I'm not even blonde. Yikes! How lucky you are to travel so much!

I knew I had to check back in with this post when there were so many replies to it. Brenda, that it pretty spiffy about sitting next to a Fodorite at Miss Lucy's. Too bad y'all didn't know it at the time.

Tux, glad to have you back from China. I echo the previous sentiments--lucky you to be able to travel so often. And how pleasant to have a good flight for that length for your kiddo.

Brenda--
I just a CD with pictures of lunch at Miss Lucy's!! You would get a kick out of them...want me to email them to you?
Deb

Yes Deb, that would be great! [email protected] I can send you some as well! I have someone in your group taking a picture of the goats and others. You were in the pics because we were taking shots of the views and the goats. Thanks.

Brenda