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-   -   St. John December Trip Report (https://www.fodors.com/community/caribbean-islands/st-john-december-trip-report-754276/)

snorklesue Dec 20th, 2007 06:29 PM

St. John December Trip Report
 

My husband and I were in STJ for a wonderful week Dec. 5-12-we took advantage of lower airfares and discounted villa prices and would definitely come back at this time of year. We stayed at a small villa at Coral Bay, "Paper Moon" which I chose because it was on the beach, came with a kayak, and is near the snorkeling beaches I was interested in trying. It was charming, the owner built it by hand himself and it had a lot of careful attention to detail in the woodwork, floors, layout, etc. It is small, but perfect for the two of us, although there is a loft with another queen bed. There is no a/c so we never closed the doors but let the breezes blow through the screen doors and windows. I felt a bit vulnerable at first as I am used to a locked tight house, but it ended up feeling free and wonderful. We spent all but one day on the East Side--enjoyed snorkeling and beaching at Salt Bay, Little Lameshur, Waterlemon and Francis Bay. We saw turtles at Waterlemon and Francis, also squid and wonderful coral formations plus the ususal Caribbean fish. The highlight of Lameshur was sighting two huge spotted eagle rays and being able to follow them for awhile. We hiked to Rams Head and Drunk Bay and also Yawzi Trail near Lameshur where there is an excellent snorkeling spot (where we saw the rays) and also very exciting coral formations. The colors and integrity of the coral was better on STJ than anywhere I have snorkeled before.

We enjoyed breakfast on the porch at the villa every day. There was only a tiny water view, but lots of lovely landscaping. I knew not to expect waterviews and thought it would bother me, but after all day at the beach it was kind of nice to come home to the greenery. We packed a lunch every day but the one we ventured into Cruz Bay and enjoyed it on the beach. We ate dinner at Miss Lucy's, Sweet Plantain and Shipwreck-all were good but none outstanding. Lunch in CB was at the Balcony a lovely setting, even in a downpour. After lunch in CB we wandered about Caneel for awhile (we were dressed a bit more formally than beach wear and no one bothered us for being in "for guests only" areas. We only walked around, did not try to use the beaches.) We also checked out the North Side beaches, it was late in the day so we could walk in and look around without a fee. All in all, we decided Coral Bay and the beaches over there are what we like best.

We had great weather even though Tropical Storm Olga was hanging around while we were there. It was only murky water on the last day when we went back to Salt Pond. There was some rain every day, but it never bothered us. We took out the kayak twice but didn't venture too far as it was windy and choppy, but had a nice paddle along the shore.

It is a gorgeous island, with really friendly people and not too crowded at this time of year. Oh, we rented a jeep for the week and had fun getting used to the left hand driving and crazy steep roads and turns. TG the speed limit is 20mph and most people do drive slowly.

We'll be back for sure.


RobertoB Dec 21st, 2007 04:20 AM

Thanks for the report SnorkelSue

We spent two weeks in Coral Bay in 2003 and are returning Feb08. Have lots of new snorkel spots on the list for this trip, one of which is off the Yawzi Trail.

Can you describe where you entered the water there?

TnTWalter Dec 21st, 2007 04:22 AM

Thank you for your report. It sounds so nice...I'm trying to vacation there this spring...

If I can get lodging for close to $1k, do you think we'd be able to eat and do some activities for $1k or LESS? for 4-5 days? I want to enjoy the vacation too. :O)

Did you rent a car?

Trish

brenandg Dec 21st, 2007 05:20 AM

If you can plan your trip for after mid April, you may be able to find lodging for that price. Have a look at Garden by the Sea B&B, Cruz Views, Coconut Coast Studios and maybe even Estate Lindholm and Lavendar Hill. It is unlikely that you would be able to rent a villa for 4-5 nights. We met a couple who always stay at Cruz Views and they like it there.

snorklesue would have had to rent a vehicle to get to the places they went. Nice trip report!!

1K budget for food and activities. What kind of activities? I would recommend a rental car for at least a couple of days. A Vitara was $58 and a Wrangler was $72. Having drinks out really adds up fast unless you hit Happy Hour. We stopped for a drink on our way to pick up carry out dinner and it was $14 for two drinks.

Tuxedocat Dec 21st, 2007 01:03 PM

Thanks for the report! Now I think I remember Paper Moon, is it on Johnson Bay? So glad you had a wonderful time.

TnTWalter Dec 21st, 2007 05:05 PM

Paper Moon sounds lovely!!

Brenda..

Activities...renting a kayak, snorkeling, renting bikes, I saw a cool snorkel trip to The Caves of Norman Island and Baths of Virgin Gorda: Snorkel in 3 caves on Norman Island and explore the Baths of Virgin Gorda, $110 per person. Exploring the eco center that's new?

I have found 2 places near Coral Bay for under $1K 5 nights after taxes. They aren't on the beach nor come with kayak though. Lucky Sue!

Trish

snorklesue Dec 30th, 2007 04:04 PM

Hi, I've been away for awhile and haven't answered any questions. Re the Yawzi Trail, we parked at Little Lameshur and walked a short distance to the Yawzi Trail (there is a sign) then you pretty much can't miss the left hand turn off to the little beach where we put in to snorkel. Be sure to walk to the end of the trail also for a nice view.

We did rent a car-I had asked a million questions here trying to stay in Cruz Bay and not rent a car,but I am glad we decided to stay in Coral Bay. Driving did take some getting used to-the hills are very steep and it's hard to tell which way they turn. But we took it slow and had fun with it. My husband drove and I sat shotgun and peered over the hood to see what was happening on the road-including cows, goats, donkeys. The roads we drove were all paved except for a small portion of the Lameshur. It would have been impossible to get around w/out a car where we stayed. It is possible in Cruz Bay, we saw a lot of the open taxis.

Have fun whenever you go!

Happy New Year!



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