Problems at Caneel Bay
 

We just returned from a multi-island trip that included 5 days at Caneel Bay. OK, the property is beautiful and it has wonderful beaches and snorkeling, but it also has some real problems which seriously detracted from our enjoyment of the resort. First of all, our room had all of the spaciousness and charm of a 1950's era Howard Johnsons motel. There is very little space to put your stuff in either the room or the bathroom. Upon our arrival, we found a few things broken or not working in the room and reported them to the front desk, but these weren't fixed until our third day there. Which brings us to our second problem -- service. It was at best indifferent, and occasionally downright surly. Guests' requests, including ours, were sometimes treated as an annoying distraction by the staff. But the biggest problem was the daytrippers. Our room was right on Caneel Beach, and every day there it was covered with daytrippers from the waterline to the steps of our room. They took over every lounge and every area of shade. Most days, we had to abandon the beach right in front of our room (for which we had paid big bucks), and go to find a beach that was less occupied, usually Scott or Hawksnest Beach. I realize that the beaches are public, but the resort staff does nothing to discourage the daytrippers from using the lounges and other facilities. Yes, there are signs that say "Facilities for resort guests only", but these are not enforced. In fact, the staff is often complicit in helping the daytrippers use the resort. When we were catching the resort shuttle bus (to get away from Caneel Beach), a group of "visitors" with green towels climbed on the bus and asked to go to "one of the other beaches." The driver suggested Scott Beach and offered to get them beige-colored resort towels so they would fit in with the guests, for which he happily took a $5 tip. We were furious and reported this, but no one seemed to care. Unless the management wakes up and deals with these problems, there is no way we would recommend this resort, in spite of its obvious virtues. Use your money to go to Little Dix Bay, which is everything Caneel Bay is not.

Caneel is our favorite, but thanks for your honest report. There has been lots of information on this forum on the rooms. Were you completely surprised or were they worse than you expected? Caneel normally does not get great reviews on their rooms. I have never stayed on Caneel Beach. I don't blame you for being upset by day guests that aren't paying the high room rates. Did you ask to speak to managers about your concerns?

I'm sorry it wasn't what you expected. Owa

Thanks for the report regarding the bad practices of the shuttle/taxi drivers. Any resort should clamp down things like that. As for the yet- another report of disappointment with the rooms, it does make me chuckle. It reminds me of two experiences, one with the Yacht Club in Marblehead, MA and the other in a very exclusive hunt lodge in western Connecticut. Both places boasted an exclusive, sublime environment on some very expensive real estate. The guestrooms at both places were very simply furnished in the most spare, Puritanical style. It looked like a "preppy" boy's adolescent bedroom. The shared baths were also quite restrained in style. I kept thinking... hhmmh... and this place is to die for? This is the gathering place of the moneyed and well-bred? Oh well... I guess simplicity is some folks' idea of luxury.

Hi Owa,
I can definitely see why you like Caneel Bay. If they get rid of some of the problems, there is a lot to like. I had read some of the posts about the rooms, but we were surprised nonetheless. Ours was not only small and inadequately furnished, but a little shabby. In other words, worse than I expected. I did speak to the front desk manager about the issue with the staff helping the daytrippers, but no one seemed to care very much.

Angler973:

I'm speaking as a daytripper. When we stayed in Tortola, we could take the ferry over for lunch at Peter Island for a fee. This fee gives access to everything there-as a matter of fact, it's encouraged.

While I understand, if you're paying a premimium, if they are charging "day trippers" for use of facilities, they are not going to stop the practice.

There are other daytrippers that come by sailboats, they don't pay the access fee. They are not suppose to use the pools, or anything, but of course can eat lunch at the restaurant and and hang out on Deadman's Beach.

I personally don't know how they could tell day trips from people paying access fees, vs people coming off the sailboats.

We went over a couple of times, and sometimes it was crowded.

As a business, I don't blame them for coming up with extra business.

On the other hand, as a spending the night customer, I understand your point. You're paying for what you think is a certain level of seclusion/exclusivity.

I am not certain which room you stayed, but after many stays at Caneel, my room(s) have had an extra large closet and much drawer space. On my most recent stay, this past November, new furnishings and slate steps had been redone. Glitz and glammor is not what Caneel is about. It is about a relaxed, natural islandy style. Personally, I feel that the rooms fit perfectly in that setting. I guess it's just a matter of preference.

I have never had a problem with obtaing a lounge chair at any of their beaches, including Caneel, even when I knew the result to have full occupancy. Perhaps you were there during spring break. I have heard that at that time, there are many more children there.

In two weeks, I will be staying at Little Dix for the first time. It will be interesting to compare the two.

Angler-Another response from a "daytripper". I had read on this site and usvi-on-line.com that if you brought your own chairs you could go to Caneel Bay. We stayed in a lovely villa this spring, but I did bring my family over for an hour to sit on Caneel Beach with our chairs as a change of pace. Tried to be mindful of placing ourselves not right in front of someone's unit. I would agree with you that while this was permissable, I would not really want others cluttering up my expensive vacation! On our visit there was still quite a lot of space available on the beach. (As an aside my teenager almost fainted when I told her there were no TVs in the room;)!)

I fully understand that the big $$ Caneel gets for the rooms is all about the location. No doubt that the beaches & setting there is gorgeous. But in (my opinion), their rooms do NOT come close to being worth the ridiculous rates they charge. Sorry, but if I'm paying $600-800 dollars a night, I'd expect a bit of luxury & privacy.

I have read numerous reports about Caneel over several years that never seem to change. Countless reports of sub-par service, and very average rooms. Personally, I wouldn't spend that much on ANY room, but after all the negative reports, I just will never understand why people punish themselves at this resort.

Honestly, I am in no way trying to offend those who love Caneel. It truly is a gorgeous setting. But the rates just don't fit for what you get. I can only imagine what you can get on other islands for $600-800 per night. Even if I had money to burn (which I don't), I wouldn't spend it on Caneel.

JMO, when people are choosing St. John, one might not be aware of the lack of choices for accomodations on the island. Many people opt for villas - which are not inexpensive - and then self cater because there are few options. Others choose the Westin with its manmade beach and suburbly groomed grounds, pool, etc (and no true "beachfront" accomodations) which I read were upwards of $400 a nite (plus a resort fee - whatever that might be!). And that's the choice when traveling to St. John. So if you are not the person who enjoys villas and schlepping to the beaches, the Westin which doesn't really capture the Caribb feel, "naturalness" and openness that Caneel does and your really want to head to St. John with a bit of ambience and "luxury" - altho not the gold-plated kind, it might be just for you. Not everyone likes the same, thankfully - we'd never get reservations!
And there must be some appeal if all the day-trippers are even willing to carry their own stuff to their beaches and disrespect the signs that clearly mark hotel guests only beyond that point (even on Caneel beach). Don't know why people wouldn't head to Honeymoon instead since it is a much nicer beach, IMO, beach than Caneel - it's just a short walk unless they wanted to play with the water toys!

beachplum,

I agree that the choices are a little tougher on STJ, but compared to Caneel, the condos & villas are CHEAP. There are a huge amount of villas that work out to around $300 to 400 a night, Caneel is much higher. We did Gallows Point condos, which although do not have a large beach, the views are awesome, the resort is great, and the price is a lot easier to swallow.

I also agree.....Thank God we all have different tastes.

Here's what comes up on Gallow's for prices:

winter $575
shoulder $475
summer $375

and here's Caneel's ... granted they are the Tennis Court and Gardenview and not beachfront
Tennis Court - a short walk to Hawksnest beach
$395 Spring 4/15 to 5/31
$375 Summer 6/1 to 10/31
$425 Fall 11/1 to 12/18

Garden
$495
$425
$550

Winter rates aren't up for next year and they've done away with their "shoulder season" rate in Spring and FAll charging more in the Fall than Spring. Can't imagine that folks would pay more when it is still hurricane season!
Kinda like comparing apples and oranges but Gallows really doesn't have a beach either and that's why I compared those two. Prices rise signifigantly for waterview or beachfront and top out for Cottage 7. Actually, I was really disappointed coming into Cruz Bay a couple of weeks ago with all the building especially that which seems to dwarf Gallows! The restaurant (can't remember the name it used to be OR the name it is now!) is adjacent to Gallows and one nite there was quite a dinner show put on by a couple in their condo since they forgot to draw the curtains! No ferry sounds at Caneel either! ;-)
My days at Caneel are probably over. St. John has just gotten too busy, too crowded with all those jeeps buzzing around like termites swarming!
'Tis very hard, tho, to pay top dollar, no matter where you are and come away disappointed when you are expecting perfection. Been there and done that other times. It really is about expectations.

Beachplum-Just to mention that we were one of those people carrying our chairs to what I assume was Caneel beach. I am by no means a "rule breaker" and there are no signs or indication that we were not welcomed. The signs that we saw (and were told about in advance) say that all chairs are for the use of Caneels guests. As I stated above, it did feel a bit funny to be so near others accomodations, but I can assure you that we were directed there by the Caneel staff and used the Bar to buy beverages. So unless we missed something, I believe we were okay where we were. It did look to be a lovely property and has many of the advantages that you posted above.

I reiterate; it's a matter of personal preference. What I love about Caneel, and makes it distinctive, is going to the other beaches than Caneel, is the ultimate privacy. Where els can you find a resort where often you have an entire beach to yourself or share with 4 - 6 other people. Some reasons for the costs is that the rooms are spread among 170 acres. All maintanance and cleaning staff with supplies must be shuttled large distances. One can only imagine the cost of staff and equiptment to manicure the lawns and gardens of this vast expanse. Caneel also has its own desalination plant which provide pure water for drinking, showers and itys enormous underground garden irrigation system. The buildings are built with walls so thick, that I have never heard my next door neighbo(s) The result is ultimate privacy. The staff has always been great to me, and do everything to make me feel at home and my stay enjoyable.

By comparison, In order to do some shopping and visit some of my favorite restaurants, I usually spemd my first USVI days at Frenchman's Reef/Morningstar Hotels. The past couple of times, I have stayed in their Royal Plantation loft Suites, which have 2 story floor to ceiling glass, downstairs living room and full bath, with the loft master bedroom with huge whirlpool tub and seperate bath. It indeed is a gorgeous room; however, when walking down the hall I can hear people conversing in their room and doing whatever. The rooms are more showy than Caneel, but the privacy is not there. The beach and pools are shared with chair to chair people, and the snorkeling is almost nil. I do not mean to run down Frenchman's. It is a beautiful property and has much to offer, and I would not stay there if it did not. However, it doesd not begin to compare to the islandy, get away from it all feel, than does Caneel I would not pay Caneel's prices if I felt otherwise.

Again this is my personal choice as well as many others who have fallen in love with Caneel This is not to say, that those who like more glammy in their rooms with more crowded conditions are wrong, it is all about personal likes and dislikes. Whatever is right for you, is right for you. Someone else's choices may differ from yours, but it does not make them wrong if they are happy in their choice.

For me, that is why I will be making my tenth and eleventh trips to Caneel, and will continue to put away my return milk bottle deposits, along with some other horded cash in my Caneel fund.

Gosh, Angler, I would have been steamed about the day-trippers on the bus and in Caneel's chairs. Some of the front desk staff at Caneel are not the best--you really should have spoken to the General Manager. That said, I agree that the public beaches are a big downside to a very expensive resort.

As for the rooms--I think a decent percentage of the rooms have been renovated (all the beachfronts for sure).

Just to be clear, Caneel nor anyone else on STJ owns the beach up to the high tide line. Caneel can limit your access to the grounds but legally cannot throw anyone off the beach.

This would require a staff of great tact to defend the beaches for Caneel's guests. Tactful is clearly NOT a word to describe Caneel's staff.

I totally agree that it's "tacky" of folks to come in by the busload to swarm a private property that other patrons have paid big bucks to enjoy quietly. The responsibility lies with the resort to deal with this sort of thing in the most effective and sensitive way. On the other hand, it's tough to turn away people who have traveled a great distance from sharing in the splendor just a little. Perhaps Caneel should set up certain hours when it would be acceptable to allow non-patrons use of the beaches like 10-2? Of course, a maximum number and maybe even a fee could be imposed. If Trunk and Cinnamon do that, why not Caneel? Yee-eesh! Do I have to think of everything? :))

Caneel can only suggest that interlopers leave the beach
but cannot insist that they do
so since they don't actually own
the beach. If you arrive at "Caneel's"
beach by boat or swim to it from
a nearby beach, you have every
legal right to be on the beach as
long as you remain below the high tide line. I think that the staff at
Caneel long ago gave up trying to
shoo away non-guests since it is so
difficult to tell them apart from the
guests.

I've heard complaints like this from
guests at all of the few "on the beach"
lodgings on STJ.

A agree that Caneel is overpriced for what you get. If you want tohave some secluded beach time, drive out to
Vie's and pay her a couple of bucks to use her beach. Or make the hike down to Reef Bay....there's rarely anyone there.

Caneel is definitely not for everyone, but (as a multi repeat visitor), I just haven't' found any place else that compares to the beautiful beaches. We usually go between Thanksgiving and Christmas and the crowds aren't bad, and usually don't go to Caneel Beach because of the day people and also the kids. That being said, last year, we did go there a couple times and definitely noticed a large number of visitors using the lounges. The only other suggestion I might have given Angler was to speak directly with the GM (perhaps at the reception night)but the staff is definitely not known for being responsive! I faithfully complete the comment cards every year and always encourage them to read the entries on this board and Trip Advisor.

I have seen any number of resorts enforce a "guests-only" policy for the loungers. The sand part of the beaches above the high tide line are resort property. If lounger users do not have resort towels, they are politely asked to not use them. The visitors understand--they haven't paid to use the property. A smart move, since Caneel gets day-trippers for the restaurant, would be to put out loungers for visitors in front of the restaurant and near the dock where there are no rooms. Makes the visitors feel welcome w/o disturbing the guests.

There's nothing worse than paying a lot of money for accomodations and not being happy about them. Sorry you were so disappointed. We'd like to go back to St. John at some point (we stayed at the Westin the first time around) and are considering staying at Caneel then. I'm still on the fence about that though due to price and the mixed reviews. Thanks for posting your thoughts.