Just back from Grand Cayman
Nov 30th, 2006, 05:37 PM
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Just back from Grand Cayman
Just back from a week on Grand Cayman. Stayed at the Turtle Nest Inn. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
Cayman is a Caribbean island, with a first-world infrastructure, and great snorkeling/scuba, and generally very safe and clean. That seems to be its market niche. We liked it much, much better than Jamaica, largely because of the difficulty of leaving one's hotel to wander the island in Jamaica (we did it and went to Negril and Treasure Beach, but only by hiring a car and driver, not much independence), and the lack of negative "vibe" and hassle from the permanent residants.
Seven mile beach is really as nice as they say, we even had great shell beachcombing on the northern part. The Turtle Nest Inn has great snorkeling right offshore, and allowed some quiet from 7MB as desired. The general quality of the dining was very high (especially for the fish, of course). Driving on the left was not a big problem.
I'd be happy to answer any questions people may have. We will return to Cayman for our next beach vacation!
Cayman is a Caribbean island, with a first-world infrastructure, and great snorkeling/scuba, and generally very safe and clean. That seems to be its market niche. We liked it much, much better than Jamaica, largely because of the difficulty of leaving one's hotel to wander the island in Jamaica (we did it and went to Negril and Treasure Beach, but only by hiring a car and driver, not much independence), and the lack of negative "vibe" and hassle from the permanent residants.
Seven mile beach is really as nice as they say, we even had great shell beachcombing on the northern part. The Turtle Nest Inn has great snorkeling right offshore, and allowed some quiet from 7MB as desired. The general quality of the dining was very high (especially for the fish, of course). Driving on the left was not a big problem.
I'd be happy to answer any questions people may have. We will return to Cayman for our next beach vacation!
Nov 30th, 2006, 05:54 PM
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Hi Jeffrey, would you recommend the Turtle Nest Inn for non-snorkelers? We like to be in the water but not on reefs close to shore.
How were the prices, how did they compare to your experience on other islands?
Valerie
How were the prices, how did they compare to your experience on other islands?
Valerie
Nov 30th, 2006, 05:58 PM
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I've been waiting FOREVER for the Ritz-Carlton to open after many delays, and for the island to recover from the hurricane. Glad you had a great time. 2 questions: would you recommend a car, and did you get over to the Ritz and make any observations? Thanks! PS, husband and I are travelling with our seasoned, world-traveller 7yo daughter. 
Nov 30th, 2006, 06:57 PM
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LvSun, thanks! Will do. Did you notice a lot of sea urchins when you were snorkelling? My daughter was completely freaked out by them in VIs (they really were everywhere) . . . hoping I can tell her they're not such an issue in Cayman.
Nov 30th, 2006, 07:07 PM
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Valerie - (1) The Cayman Islands are not a budget destination. The island deliberately and unashamedly pursues only an upscale tourist market. They are also importing a first-world infrastructure (good roads, cars, supermarkets) to a Caribbean Island. It is clean, safe, well-run and easy to get around independently. The one downside of this is price. I am from Manhattan, so I had only mild sticker shock. If you get a room with a stove and fridge (as at Turtle Nest) you at least don't have to eat breakfast at a fancy hotel (unless you want to). Good value is about 150-200 dollars a night for a room, and you can spend much more. Fresh groceries are about 2-3 times Manhattan prices (except for fish).
The beach at Turtle Nest is great for sitting and reading, and for snorkeling. But it is not a "soft sand" on the bottom sort of beach once you hit the water. You would go to Rum Point or 7MB for that sort of beach. Both are very easy to get to by car in about half an hour. The beaches on the south and east of the island are generally beautiful, palm-tree laden snorkeling beaches, but are not soft sand wading-in-the-water-type beaches.
TravelerMommy - Yes, *wherever* you stay you should certainly get a car. The beach by the Ritz is a great wide sandy beach with clear water, but there is so much more to explore on the rest of the island. Car rental is not that expensive (maybe 250 a week for an economy car), and my fears of driving on the left quickly left me after about 5 minutes.
One downside of the Ritz and Westin part of 7MB is the cruise ship passengers and the other hotel guests. We drove to the public beach mid way up. We often had the beach more or less to ourselves, while the Ritz and the Westin had dozens of people out front. This is not necessarily a bad thing. We bought an overpriced drink by the Westin and used their facilities and talked to some people for a while on one of our 7MB days, but the north part and the public beach area was typically much less crowded and more romantic, at least to us. That said, I thought even the most developed part of 7MB was done intelligently and with some class, but it still is targeted towards (upscale) mass tourism. Personally, we preferred the slighly out of the way, smaller Turtle Nest Inn, but that is personal preference. The Ritz looked very well built and was on a great strip of sand and water, but it isn't really our type of place to stay. We would have no hesitation bringing a 7 year old to any part of the island. It is at least as safe and first-world as your hometown.
We have been to Jamaica for a week, and to the US Virgin Islands. The main feature of Cayman is the first-world infrastructure, safety, and the complete lack of negative "vibe" or begging from the fully-employed, generally middle class or better local population (average income 45k a year). To be blunt, the vast poverty and racial divides in Jamaica did not make for the best beach vacation from our perspective, and cut down on our independence. This is absolutely not what you find in the Caymans.
The beach at Turtle Nest is great for sitting and reading, and for snorkeling. But it is not a "soft sand" on the bottom sort of beach once you hit the water. You would go to Rum Point or 7MB for that sort of beach. Both are very easy to get to by car in about half an hour. The beaches on the south and east of the island are generally beautiful, palm-tree laden snorkeling beaches, but are not soft sand wading-in-the-water-type beaches.
TravelerMommy - Yes, *wherever* you stay you should certainly get a car. The beach by the Ritz is a great wide sandy beach with clear water, but there is so much more to explore on the rest of the island. Car rental is not that expensive (maybe 250 a week for an economy car), and my fears of driving on the left quickly left me after about 5 minutes.
One downside of the Ritz and Westin part of 7MB is the cruise ship passengers and the other hotel guests. We drove to the public beach mid way up. We often had the beach more or less to ourselves, while the Ritz and the Westin had dozens of people out front. This is not necessarily a bad thing. We bought an overpriced drink by the Westin and used their facilities and talked to some people for a while on one of our 7MB days, but the north part and the public beach area was typically much less crowded and more romantic, at least to us. That said, I thought even the most developed part of 7MB was done intelligently and with some class, but it still is targeted towards (upscale) mass tourism. Personally, we preferred the slighly out of the way, smaller Turtle Nest Inn, but that is personal preference. The Ritz looked very well built and was on a great strip of sand and water, but it isn't really our type of place to stay. We would have no hesitation bringing a 7 year old to any part of the island. It is at least as safe and first-world as your hometown.
We have been to Jamaica for a week, and to the US Virgin Islands. The main feature of Cayman is the first-world infrastructure, safety, and the complete lack of negative "vibe" or begging from the fully-employed, generally middle class or better local population (average income 45k a year). To be blunt, the vast poverty and racial divides in Jamaica did not make for the best beach vacation from our perspective, and cut down on our independence. This is absolutely not what you find in the Caymans.
Dec 1st, 2006, 02:09 AM
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It was fun reading your report Jeffrey. We also stayed at the Turtle Nest Inn for half of our stay (used Marriott points for the rest). We are glad we divided it up that way. We really enjoyed the owners of TNI, and appreciated the quiet.
Sadly, the cruise ships and the crowds, totally turned us off from going back to GC. I'm glad you and many others like it and will return. We all like different islands for different reasons. Thanks again, Owa
Sadly, the cruise ships and the crowds, totally turned us off from going back to GC. I'm glad you and many others like it and will return. We all like different islands for different reasons. Thanks again, Owa
Dec 1st, 2006, 04:00 PM
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I had a few more "beach thoughts".
The "ideal" beach for many of us is a miles-long strip of sand, with lots of bathrooms and showers and amenities, that is also totally private with no one else around (and is also safe and easy to get to). Of course, when we think of it, no such beach can exist, since the easy to get to and amenities portion conflicts with the privacy portion.
Compared to other well-developed, amenity-rich beaches I have been to (Kanaapali on Maui, Miami Beach, Negril on Jamaica, Waikiki, the Hamptons), Cayman's 7MB was really first rate. We had a great day shell beachcombing for limpets, spiral thingies, periwinkles and so forth on the northern half of the beach. I doubt we ran into 5 people in 3 hours of walking on a fairly sunny nice day (we went Thanksgiving week). Lower down by the Ritz there were gobs of people, but not the north side (at least when we were there). Compared to the overrun disaster of Kanaapali or the hair-braiding hustle of Negril, 7MB was great, and it is being developed in a sensible, higher-class way.
More private beaches give up amenities or accessibility. I remember being in Costa Rica's Ballena National Park beach during rainy season, and in 3 days we only met one other person (a local family gathering mollusks for dinner) in three days. It is a mile long with tons of clear water, shells, and trees. There is a small expat community there, but you have to hunt for the area south of Domenical in guide books, and the road to get there has potholes as big as cars. The Red Sand beach in Hana, Maui is also special (though small), and is in a first world country, but it is quite hard to get to, and Hana is less amenity rich than any part of the Caymans.
I guess my point is, I love a big private secluded beach to share with my wife as much as anyone. But I don't see any reason to turn one's nose up at 7MB because of the hotels or even cruise ships. The Caymanians have to earn a living. Unlike some other destinations, the Caymans pretty much deliver what they advertise. I, personally, am not a Ritz/Westin- staying type of guy, but the Caymans have done tourist beach development about as well as it can be done, I did not find 7MB overrun, and I liked not being trapped in my resort-complex and feeling free to go about the island safely. I had friends go to the Seychelles, and they hated it, because they were trapped in their hotel for any food, and were stuck paying 400 dollars for mediocre dinner, since they could not go anywhere else on the islands freely, due to the lack of general development.
Anyway, my "beach thoughts" are over now.
The "ideal" beach for many of us is a miles-long strip of sand, with lots of bathrooms and showers and amenities, that is also totally private with no one else around (and is also safe and easy to get to). Of course, when we think of it, no such beach can exist, since the easy to get to and amenities portion conflicts with the privacy portion.
Compared to other well-developed, amenity-rich beaches I have been to (Kanaapali on Maui, Miami Beach, Negril on Jamaica, Waikiki, the Hamptons), Cayman's 7MB was really first rate. We had a great day shell beachcombing for limpets, spiral thingies, periwinkles and so forth on the northern half of the beach. I doubt we ran into 5 people in 3 hours of walking on a fairly sunny nice day (we went Thanksgiving week). Lower down by the Ritz there were gobs of people, but not the north side (at least when we were there). Compared to the overrun disaster of Kanaapali or the hair-braiding hustle of Negril, 7MB was great, and it is being developed in a sensible, higher-class way.
More private beaches give up amenities or accessibility. I remember being in Costa Rica's Ballena National Park beach during rainy season, and in 3 days we only met one other person (a local family gathering mollusks for dinner) in three days. It is a mile long with tons of clear water, shells, and trees. There is a small expat community there, but you have to hunt for the area south of Domenical in guide books, and the road to get there has potholes as big as cars. The Red Sand beach in Hana, Maui is also special (though small), and is in a first world country, but it is quite hard to get to, and Hana is less amenity rich than any part of the Caymans.
I guess my point is, I love a big private secluded beach to share with my wife as much as anyone. But I don't see any reason to turn one's nose up at 7MB because of the hotels or even cruise ships. The Caymanians have to earn a living. Unlike some other destinations, the Caymans pretty much deliver what they advertise. I, personally, am not a Ritz/Westin- staying type of guy, but the Caymans have done tourist beach development about as well as it can be done, I did not find 7MB overrun, and I liked not being trapped in my resort-complex and feeling free to go about the island safely. I had friends go to the Seychelles, and they hated it, because they were trapped in their hotel for any food, and were stuck paying 400 dollars for mediocre dinner, since they could not go anywhere else on the islands freely, due to the lack of general development.
Anyway, my "beach thoughts" are over now.
Dec 2nd, 2006, 05:06 AM
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TravelerMommy,
Have not seen them snorkeling off 7MB, but do see several when snorkeling in other areas. Sure you know - do not step in the sea grass cuz they like to nestle in it and in the coral.
Snorkeling off 7MB is fun. There is an area north of 7MB called the Cemetary that has better snorkeling.
However, for the best snorkeling on GC, go to the Cayman Kai area. Right before you get to Rum Point, there is a public access to the beach. The reef is so close you can snorkel to it, however, there are (or were) several coral patches before the reef so you can see tons of sealife without going to the reef. We like the area so well because of the snorkeling, it's the only island we repeatedly go back to and stay in that area at the Sea Lodges.
We see so much and so many unusual things that hubby have given up diving. We see a lot and snorkeling is less hassle than diving. Have even seen a baby octupus there.
Have not seen them snorkeling off 7MB, but do see several when snorkeling in other areas. Sure you know - do not step in the sea grass cuz they like to nestle in it and in the coral.
Snorkeling off 7MB is fun. There is an area north of 7MB called the Cemetary that has better snorkeling.
However, for the best snorkeling on GC, go to the Cayman Kai area. Right before you get to Rum Point, there is a public access to the beach. The reef is so close you can snorkel to it, however, there are (or were) several coral patches before the reef so you can see tons of sealife without going to the reef. We like the area so well because of the snorkeling, it's the only island we repeatedly go back to and stay in that area at the Sea Lodges.
We see so much and so many unusual things that hubby have given up diving. We see a lot and snorkeling is less hassle than diving. Have even seen a baby octupus there.
Dec 3rd, 2006, 02:10 PM
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Jeffrey: My husband and I have decided on the Turtle Nest Inn on GC after much debating--this is our first vacation out of the U.S. (we usually go to Destin, FL). Seems like you had a pretty good recommendation for TNI. Would you mind if I asked which of the rooms you stayed in? We are thinking of going around May 25 2007 and looking at one of the mid-priced ocean "view" rooms.
Also, did you use TNI's connection to rent a car or find one on your own? Thanks. Michelle
Also, did you use TNI's connection to rent a car or find one on your own? Thanks. Michelle
Dec 3rd, 2006, 03:45 PM
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chelly - We had one of the side-view rooms (peak of ocean). The ocean front rooms also looked nice, but they were not available for the time we wanted to go. It really didn't make much of a difference to the fun of our vacation. The non-ocean rooms are both larger and cheaper: don't avoid going just because of the view from the room. It also seemed easier to just have TNI do a room/car package. I think we saved a little bit this way, and it was easy, but I confess I did not second-check everything. Be sure to try Mrs. Woods's Jerk Chicken stand up the street.
We really benefited from taking snorkel equipment with us, both for the great snorkeling (but not wading) beach in front of TNI, but also elsewhere on the island. They have them for use at the hotel, but we liked having our own, for privacy and convenience. TNI also gave us beach chairs and towels for 7MB, had a nice video rental library for our rainy day (yes, it can happen), good laundry and excellent housekeeping. Assuming you don't want a mega-hotel right on 7MB (not my thing, but some people seem to like it), TNI is an excellent choice.
We really benefited from taking snorkel equipment with us, both for the great snorkeling (but not wading) beach in front of TNI, but also elsewhere on the island. They have them for use at the hotel, but we liked having our own, for privacy and convenience. TNI also gave us beach chairs and towels for 7MB, had a nice video rental library for our rainy day (yes, it can happen), good laundry and excellent housekeeping. Assuming you don't want a mega-hotel right on 7MB (not my thing, but some people seem to like it), TNI is an excellent choice.
Dec 4th, 2006, 08:33 AM
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Jeffrey: wow, thanks for all the info! We don't really mind not having an ocean vista from the room, but somewhere on this board I read that the non-ocean front rooms can be noisy because they face or are on the street side?? Did you notice noise? We are pretty light sleepers so if there's a lot of traffic that might not work for us.
We plan to try to save money by eating out only once a day; is there grocery shopping near by? Appreciate the heads up on taking our own snorkel gear. Did you go to that Cemetary Beach? Do you have pictures to post from your trip? WOuld love to see those. Oh, and were the beds comfortable? Thankis for allowing the brain-picking.
We plan to try to save money by eating out only once a day; is there grocery shopping near by? Appreciate the heads up on taking our own snorkel gear. Did you go to that Cemetary Beach? Do you have pictures to post from your trip? WOuld love to see those. Oh, and were the beds comfortable? Thankis for allowing the brain-picking.
Dec 4th, 2006, 08:47 AM
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Glad you also enjoyed GC. Travelermommy we went to the Ritz this February and it was fantastic. You will love it. You can rent a car right there at the Budget Rent a Car at Ritz..we enjoyed a convertible PT Cruiser. It was great for the day we wanted to explore. Otherwise, the taxis were fine.
Trish
Trish
Dec 4th, 2006, 12:38 PM
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The only bad thing about the road side TNI rooms were the roosters! They would wake us up in the morning. You might want earplugs. We didn't notice road noise.
DO NOT miss Smith's Cove. It is an amazing little beach.
We used TNI to do our rental car, but double check rates at Andy's.
http://www.andys.ky
If you send an e-mail here requesting an Andy's discount code they will send it to you. I can't remember what it was.
[email protected]
DO NOT miss Smith's Cove. It is an amazing little beach.
We used TNI to do our rental car, but double check rates at Andy's.
http://www.andys.ky
If you send an e-mail here requesting an Andy's discount code they will send it to you. I can't remember what it was.
[email protected]
Dec 4th, 2006, 01:08 PM
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Kelliebellie, you caught up with me! Thanx for the info. We might have to reconsider an ocean front room-- when we were building our house a couple of years ago and living in a townhouse, there someone in the neighborhood behind us who had a rooster that was apparently pscho--it would crow at 2 am, or 3 pm, or sometimes midnight! It nearly drove us crazy.
Ok, Smith's Cove is on my list. I also have Cemetary Beach (?). Gosh, I am getting so excited!
Ok, Smith's Cove is on my list. I also have Cemetary Beach (?). Gosh, I am getting so excited!
Dec 4th, 2006, 01:29 PM
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I'm checking everyone's GC posts too! We have only been there the once 2 years ago and are headed back this New Year's so I want to see what is changed.
These Roosters weren't all night roosters, but they were early morning roosters. And they might have just been wandering around because they had gotten loose in the hurricane. They might be gone by now. It might be worth an e-mail to TNI to see what they say. I just remember my husband wanting to make jerk chicken out of them.
Another cool place, and hopefully it is still there, is a "restaurant" called Rolands. It is basically just a German chef's front yard and he cooks you a meal and you pay what you think it is worth. Bring your own wine. It was really good and cool. He will sit down with you for a bit and chat. He was talking about packing up and moving back to Germany, so I don't know if he is still there.
There is also a great Indian place in town if you like Indian.
And you might want the extra car insurance. Driving on the other side of the road can lead to a few scrapes.
There was a grocery store about 10 minutes from TNI. It was very nice.
And I LOVED Seymour's jerk chicken by the airport. It was spicy and wonderful.
Okay, I'm getting excited about our trip too.
These Roosters weren't all night roosters, but they were early morning roosters. And they might have just been wandering around because they had gotten loose in the hurricane. They might be gone by now. It might be worth an e-mail to TNI to see what they say. I just remember my husband wanting to make jerk chicken out of them.
Another cool place, and hopefully it is still there, is a "restaurant" called Rolands. It is basically just a German chef's front yard and he cooks you a meal and you pay what you think it is worth. Bring your own wine. It was really good and cool. He will sit down with you for a bit and chat. He was talking about packing up and moving back to Germany, so I don't know if he is still there.
There is also a great Indian place in town if you like Indian.
And you might want the extra car insurance. Driving on the other side of the road can lead to a few scrapes.
There was a grocery store about 10 minutes from TNI. It was very nice.
And I LOVED Seymour's jerk chicken by the airport. It was spicy and wonderful.
Okay, I'm getting excited about our trip too.
Dec 4th, 2006, 02:26 PM
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Man, I wish our trip was so close! You WILL be posting to tell us all about the trip when you get back, right?! Yes, I think your suggestion to check with the owners @ TNI is a good one; from what I've read about them I think they would give me an honest recommendation about the rooms. The German yard-chef sounds too cool! Hope he is still there.
Do all flights go to GCM?
Do all flights go to GCM?
Dec 4th, 2006, 03:04 PM
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chelly - We were not bothered by any road noise, but then we live in Manhattan and are not sensitive to such things. If you listened very very hard I suppose one could sometimes hear a car. I never heard a rooster from our room.
Just to take some of the anxiety out of your trip plans: there is really no bad part of GC to go to, and few if any bad hotels. The whole place is upscale, and has been largely newly rebuilt after Ivan. Where you stay depends mostly on what you want: the southern side/east end area is best for snorkeling/scuba, and is more "private" and local. If people want that and a smaller/botiquey hotel, then TNI or something similar would be good. If you want a mega-hotel with beach bar and other amenities right on a long and wide sandy beach, then any of the hotels on 7MB would probably make you happy. But there seemed to be few really bad choices there, or problem areas, depending on what you want from your trip.
Cemetary Reef - Yes, our guide books said this was a must snorkel spot too, but the reef is far out, and the local dive shops were puzzled as to why the guide books would say this when we asked them for snorkel location advice. Actually, they all confirmed that the reef by TNI is really first rate: we saw dozens of types of fish, stingrays, lobsters, whole schools of tang, etc. The one other place they recommended was Eden's Rock, for a greater variety of coral (they said the fish would be similar) but the waves were too high to go there during our week. There did not seem to be much correlation between the places the guidebooks said to snorkel, and what the local ocean/dive shops recommended. If you look at a map of the reef areas, what the dive shops said made sense, and what the guidebooks said did not. I think the guidebooks just want to make people staying on 7MB happy with their nearby snorkeling.
Just to take some of the anxiety out of your trip plans: there is really no bad part of GC to go to, and few if any bad hotels. The whole place is upscale, and has been largely newly rebuilt after Ivan. Where you stay depends mostly on what you want: the southern side/east end area is best for snorkeling/scuba, and is more "private" and local. If people want that and a smaller/botiquey hotel, then TNI or something similar would be good. If you want a mega-hotel with beach bar and other amenities right on a long and wide sandy beach, then any of the hotels on 7MB would probably make you happy. But there seemed to be few really bad choices there, or problem areas, depending on what you want from your trip.
Cemetary Reef - Yes, our guide books said this was a must snorkel spot too, but the reef is far out, and the local dive shops were puzzled as to why the guide books would say this when we asked them for snorkel location advice. Actually, they all confirmed that the reef by TNI is really first rate: we saw dozens of types of fish, stingrays, lobsters, whole schools of tang, etc. The one other place they recommended was Eden's Rock, for a greater variety of coral (they said the fish would be similar) but the waves were too high to go there during our week. There did not seem to be much correlation between the places the guidebooks said to snorkel, and what the local ocean/dive shops recommended. If you look at a map of the reef areas, what the dive shops said made sense, and what the guidebooks said did not. I think the guidebooks just want to make people staying on 7MB happy with their nearby snorkeling.
Dec 4th, 2006, 03:56 PM
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I will definitly post our trip report. Yes, there is only the one airport on the island. The place isn't that big.
I just saw some rave reviews for Roland, so he must still be there. TNI knows all about him and can point you there and give you the number to make a reservation.
The thing with GC is that the people there are better off than they are here. Their dollar is worth more than our dollar. So we had a lot of Canadian waiters making tons of tax free dough to go back to Canada and pay for college. There are no shanty towns. I would be much more concerned about fellow tourists stealing things than the people that make their home there.
For a first trip to the island, I think TNI is a great location because it allows you to see the whole thing.
I just saw some rave reviews for Roland, so he must still be there. TNI knows all about him and can point you there and give you the number to make a reservation.
The thing with GC is that the people there are better off than they are here. Their dollar is worth more than our dollar. So we had a lot of Canadian waiters making tons of tax free dough to go back to Canada and pay for college. There are no shanty towns. I would be much more concerned about fellow tourists stealing things than the people that make their home there.
For a first trip to the island, I think TNI is a great location because it allows you to see the whole thing.
