Just Back From Cat Island, Fernandez Bay
 

Just got back yesterday from a week's visit on Cat Island (at Fernandez Bay Village), with a stop in Nassau both going and returning. As experienced island travelers with over 25 Caribbean/Atlantic trips under our belts, it seems we've found our version of PARADISE, at least for land-based trips (we also do sailing charters, for which the criteria are different).

I will preface my observations about Cat Island, and FBV, with a few thoughts. Cat Island is, generally speaking, NOT for beginners. It is not easy to get there; it is very remote and rugged; there is not much activity there, other than the fun you create; there is no shopping; and it is about as unlike the U.S. as you can get in the islands. But if your 3 principal requirements for a great vacation are relative remoteness, exquisite beaches, and unique accomodations, you might find Cat Island intriguing as well.

We reached Cat Island via Nassau, on Cat Island Air. We stayed at Fernandez Bay Village, a few minutes from the airport, in a little stone cottage with a thatched roof, an outdoor bath, and a wrap-around porch. Right on the beach, we were ten steps from the water -- you couldn't get much closer to the perfectly crystal water unless you were in an over-water bungalow or a boat. Our 3 sliding glass doors and 2 double windows were open day and night (no keys here), so even when we were indoors, we were effectively outdoors.

Our hosts were incredibly gracious and welcoming, and in no time, we felt like cherished houseguests at the home of friends (but our real-life friends could only dream of owning such a marvelous home, on a perfect crescent beach!). We had most of our meals on-site, and they were quite good, featuring both local and island cuisine.

For fun, we kayaked almost every day, either to remote beaches (without a soul on them), through mangrove creeks (saw sharks and rays - very cool), or to snorkeling spots. We rented a car one day, and did some island exploration, including a visit to the soul-stirring Hermitage, a hand-built replica of an Italian church built by a monk, located on the Bahamas' highest point, Mt. Alvernia. We walked the beach and swam and caught up on rest and relaxation. In the evenings, we enjoyed happy hour with other guests (there were few, as the resort had just re-opened for the season) and shared lively conversation over dinner, which was communal most nights (by choice - you certainly were not required to hang out with other guests and the hosts).

We are now plotting our return!

I will put together a full trip report on my website in due time, but if anyone has any questions in the meantime, feel free to ask.

Callaloo: Sounds like you had an amazing time. It also sounds like FBV might be right up my alley, too. How many cottages were there besides yours? How old is it and has it always been owned by the same family? Did you do any snorkeling and if so, how would you rate it? How large is Cat Island and did you see many other tourists while you were there? Does FBV have a website? Were the windows and doors screened and if not, did you have an issue with insects?

Thanks in advance!

FBV has about 15 different cottages and rooms, some of which include full kitchens and all of which feature that outdoor bath I love. Ours was Shane's Shack, and it and Seabreeze (I think) are the only thatched units. The resort, which has always been owned by the Armbrister family, has been around in various incarnations for several decades; we met a couple who have been coming every year for 20+ years -- a major endorsement. The website is www.fernandezbayvillage.com.

We did some snorkeling, and it was good (I've yet to experience anything as good as Belize), but we barely scratched the surface and did not range very far. The diving is reputed to be excellent, but the weather was too rough on the day my husband had chosen to dive, so we didn't get to test that out.

Cat Island is about 50 miles long, and not very wide. It is not very populous either, nor does it host many tourists. Our visit was at the beginning of the season, which peaks around the holidays; FBV has hosted as many as 40 guests at the peak of the season, but on an island so large, with so many beaches, it isn't hard to find yourself a secluded mile or ten of beach. We visited at Hawk's Nest, which is also a very attractive property (in a sort of more American way), and there was no one there when we stopped in for lunch. The only other travelers we encoutered outside of FBV were a couple at The Hermitage.

Our doors and windows did have screens, and FBV has a comprehensive spraying program which supposedly eradicates the no-see-ums and mosquitos for days on end. Unfortunately for me, the program had not yet started for the season, and the one evening I sat outside for hours without insect repellent, I got eaten. But after that, my more conscientious use of bug spray, and some spraying by the resort, kept me from getting much in the way of new bites.

Callaloo

Look forward to your web site report. As you may recall we cancelled our trip to Cat this past summer due to my mother-in-laws health. Did you have to spend the night in Nassau on the way back because you could not connect through?

Roberto, I suspect we could have connected from Cat Island Air to American on the Saturday of our return. There are TONS of flights back from Nassau to the U.S. However, it was easier to get FF tickets on Sunday. Plus, it gave us a chance to ease our way back home, and to explore Nassau, which we'd never done before (and probably won't do again).

At long last, my full trip report, together with photos, is on my website: www.homestead.com/islandtime/MainPage1.html.

Callaloo: I am so glad you enjoyed Cat Island. I remember when you first were planning your trip, and I tried to convince you to stay where we did, Hawks Nest Resort & Marina! Cat Island is my idea of paradise for the exact reasons you listed: no shopping, no tourists and its utter remoteness. We are hoping to get back next year, before it is discovered by the mega resorts! Did you go to the Atlantic side of the island? If so, wasn't the contrast between the Exuma Sound side interesting? I remember our lunch at FVB very well, and the food was good. Again, I am so happy that you enjoyed your trip! Yahoo! Yippee!!! ((H))