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-   -   Insider tips wanted for St. John and the Westin! (https://www.fodors.com/community/caribbean-islands/insider-tips-wanted-for-st-john-and-the-westin-717779/)

smoley Jul 2nd, 2007 01:34 PM

Insider tips wanted for St. John and the Westin!
 
Greetings!

We are headed to the Westin St. John in August 2007 after spending a week at Caneel Bay 3 years ago in the middle of a hurricane. This time our two boys (4 and 10) are going.

Looking for recommendations regarding what room to ask for at the Westin, local insight (the joints locals visit like the barbeque in the middle of Cruz Bay), great food and the chance to see Kenny Chesney. We're taking the car ferry, too. ALso hope to get some recommentations from tuxedocat!

Thanks,


Tuxedocat Jul 3rd, 2007 05:28 AM

Your wish is my command! First, as for room recommendations, we've stayed in 3 different rooms. The Westin villas are located mostly on the hillside in back of the resort. If you are planning to rent one room for the four of you, the Westin has terrific rooms with 2 queen beds. We've stayed in the "Gardenview" i.e. further away from things, the "Poolview" and the "Oceanview," all very comfortable accommodations. For kids your age, I'd try to book one of the poolview rooms because they are convenient to the pool, the beach, the playground, the tennis courts, the spa and the "Kids Program" in the gym/spa complex. They also have terrific little balconies or patios. The view is okay, but with 2 kids are you really going to be spending much time looking at a view? Sorry to read of your last trip to STJ. Hope the hurricane wasn't going on the whole time you were there! Most weather systems pass over in less than a day. You mentioned you are coming over on the car ferry so I assum you will be renting a car in STT. Fine choice, but it can have a few hairs if you've never done it before. The way we save time and reduce stress is: one of us goes straight to the luggage carousel with the kid(s), and the other goes straight to the car rental counter and gets the car squared away. We're usually finished at the same time and ready to leave the airport in 15-30 minutes of arriving. In Cruz Bay, great places to take the kids are like Uncle Joe's Barbeque, Woody's is a bit rowdy at times but casual and fun (gotta watch the kids with the traffic) there's also a selection of places casual and more upscale along the water. Morgan's Mango and Margarita Phil's are also good for dinner with the kids. The Sun Dog grill in Mongoose Junction is great for lunch. Also, you might stop in Starfish Market complex to buy water, other kid supplies, etc. There are also some nice shops and eateries there including Baked in the Sun bakery. The food at the various spots in the Westin is fine but can be quite pricey. We usually bought breakfast foods at their little coffee shop/convenience store there, purchased bottled water from the gym (cheaper than anywhere else in the resort) and ate simple lunches or dinners at the poolside grill. You can also save on cocktails by making your own by buying your own liquor and mixers. The ice is free. It may seem small, but all these measures add up to quite a savings. As for other activities, the northshore beaches are all terrific. Maho and Francis are especially placid for the kids. Also, with the kids and a car, you can explore more of the island. August can be a bit problematic as this is when many businesses close. But places like Skinny Legs, Island Blues and Shipwreck Landing are usually still open. The "St. John Spice" company have a website and have kept a running list of places which are open or closed for the season. As for Mr. Chesney, he keeps a low profile when and if he's on island. The locals are loath to give him away and that's the way he likes it. I've seen him strolling at Cinnamon Bay. He likes the smaller, more informal bars in town like Woody's or Quiet Mon etc. IMO, you'll have so much fun with the kids you'll forget all about Kenny watching. Please feel free to ask this board any questions regarding your upcoming trip. I'm definitely not the only STJ fanatic.

beachplum Jul 3rd, 2007 06:37 AM

Don't know that KC watching will be any more successful that penguin watching ... he has sold his house (and seems he like to hang in Mexico - listen to some of his recent music - so I'm told). You may still catch him since he still has property on STJ but his house at Peter Bay is no longer his. You may also want to trek over to http://www.virgin-islands-on-line.co...wforum.php?f=1 and ask away - local, multiple time visitors and others hang out. You'll find almost too much information - takes the excitement out of "discovery."

smoley Jul 3rd, 2007 07:07 AM

Wow! I knew I could count on Tuxedocat for great advice. Thanks, too, Beachplum. Your comments are just what I'm looking for - keep them coming. We're a pretty adventurous family and our boys have certainly been in many unorthodox places. We hope to continue the tradition.

Last time we loved Tage and Uncle Bob's and Woody's. Looking forward to exploring Ms. Lucy's and Vie's Snack Shack - any other places to hit while driving the island.

As for Kenny - that was a bit of a joke since we know he's touring the US. We'll see him with thousands of others in Cleveland in July!

Any recommedations (or companies to avoid) when taking a day trip via boat?

Thanks! Smoley


hawksbill Jul 3rd, 2007 11:01 AM

Regarding food: The restaurant scene in St. John is always very much in flux, even moreso lately. Tage changed ownership sometime within the past year or so. I had a bad experience there a few months ago. When I called to request a same-night reservation, the maitre d'hotel said they had just had a cancellation, but I'd have to get there within 15 minutes or lose the table. I raced over, and found that there were plenty of open tables. The maitre d' then said that our table wasn't quite ready, and he invited me to order a drink at the bar and wait for my table to become available, at which point the bartender appeared and offered to sell us drinks. We stood there for a while, while absolutely nothing was being done to any tables. Basically, it was a little scam to get us to buy a drink in addition to our dinner. A really classless move, I'd say, and not typical for St. John restaurants. I walked out before being seated, and I don't plan to go back unless the place changes hands again.

Miss Lucy's is a great choice, especially with kids. The food is poor, in my opinion, but the setting is beautiful. Also, they're recently added some new tables and chairs to the outdoor seating area, and the've somehow upgraded their service staff so that they can mange to serve more than two tables at a time without completely falling apart.

Miss Vie's would a fun choice with kids, particularly if you're heading out toward the East End anyway. The food is heavily fried, very greasy, and generally pretty bad, I thought. But it's fine if you think of it in the same genre as, say, something you'd buy at a boardwalk clam joint, rather than a fancy restaurant. Miss Vie herself is supposed to be a wonderfully friendly, talkative island character, but I found her to be kind of rude and curt. Regardless, it'll be a fun trip. Your kids will love all the various wild animals (mostly chickens) that will wander around you looking for scraps. The finer restaurants on St. John might not be perfect choices with a four-year-old, but Miss Vie's will work great.

I don't know how big a Kenny Chesney fan you are, but supposedly he wears a hook bracelet that you could buy as a distinctive souvenir of St. John, if you want. It's a variant of the Cruzan hook bracelet, which is a local tradition on St. Croix, and looks like this: http://www.gemsdirect.com/images/305_HBT4.JPG. Apparently, Kenny's version is a slightly modified version with a J-shaped clasp (in honor of St. John, I guess), sold exclusively at Caravan Gallery in Mongoose Junction, whose website is www.caravangallery.com. At least, that's what Caravan Gallery told me. They say they get a few calls a day from Kenny Chesney fans who read about the bracelet on his fan site, and want to mail order one.

beachplum Jul 3rd, 2007 12:32 PM

Ms. Vie is a retired teacher and we all tend to be a bit cranky on some days! But that aside, she is worth a trip - for the garlic chicken and the rest of her homecookin'. Her days seem to be when the mood hits so it is best to call ahead but her "honour" beach is good ting.
Not many mention two of my fav's. One for snorkeling is haulover beach and the other is honeymoon beach (one of Caneel's beaches so you are probably familiar with it). Don't know how many "locals" visit Uncle Joe's but years ago,
Hope your planning to take the boys on a sail of some sort - I'd recommend the whole day to the BVI's (to Jost or one of the other stops for lunch and then snorkeling Sandy Spit) or maybe do the ferry for a trip to Virgin Gorda and the Baths.

smoley Jul 3rd, 2007 12:53 PM

Thanks so much for your insight! Great idea about the hook bracelet - nice remembrance. Please don't limit your recommendations because of the boys - they have been in the best restaraunts all over the country.

Any thought about New Horizons for the day boat tour?

beachplum Jul 4th, 2007 05:54 AM

My only thought that it is too much and too many stops, at least for me, but I've not heard one complaint about their trips. Think also that they do lunch at Pusser's on Marina Cay (off Tortola) and altho that is a neat spot - and great snorkeling at nearby Monkey Point - the idea of Pussers lunch doesn't thrill me! I prefer a sail, some lymin' time and a day of eazy ... rather than a "stink pot" (as we lovingly call motor boars!) but it does let you squeeze in the Baths and all the rest in one day! And reports are that everyone enjoys! Not sure where or how you get the coupons for their trip but there are some out there.

anniez Jul 5th, 2007 11:34 AM

Summer on St John is awesome. We've been 5 times and always rent a villa and a jeep. It's easy to make breakfasts and lunches for a family and more cost effective, too. There's a nice grocery store on the island: The Starfish Market. Has everything. We are heading down this August with our 8 year old and we were thinking to drop her off at The Westin kids club one day. When are you going to be there?

gplusg Jul 6th, 2007 01:27 PM

The Beach Bar at Waterfront Village[acrossthe street from the Catholic Church )is always a good bet, as well as Stone Market, across the street from the Beach Bar. You can have a couple of appetizers and drinks at the bar if you don,t want to go for full meal. The chef is excellent. Try his " Baileys Pate "

Since you have been at Caneel you know that their beach bar restaurant has the best light meals on th island,and at the best prices for what you get.

If you are on island during the full moon try Ms Lucy,s pig roast.

smoley Jul 6th, 2007 01:45 PM

My thoughts exacty about the New Horizons trip - touristy, long and busy. I would love to take a tour a bit more relaxed since it would be a shame not to venture out a bit. I've read of Cloud 9 Sailing - a small private company - and they also do 1/2 days! Could we do Virgin Gorda in a 1/2 day, and is it worth it?

We are travelling August 9 - 15. I suspect that we will start our days early on the Westin Beach, then venture out.

We rented a mid-sized car rather than a jeep. Is that really a problem?

Interesting tip about the Caneel Bar - thanks. We will definately have to go. Actually, the bar was closed every night we were there becaue the ferries were generaly shut down and the island was in a state of emergency. So we made friends, brought our own booze and hung out in the bar ayway!

Has anyone been to Tage in the last few weeks? How about Asolare - I always hear mixed reviews. We all love Asian food!

Anyone out there with a specific room recommendation? The folks at the Westin have not commented about which buildings have been renovated and which ones are a bit ugh.

Thanks!

beachplum Jul 6th, 2007 02:24 PM

don't think that the sail to Virgin Gorda is possible but a powerboat will do it in a day (it's too far for sail) or you can take the ferry (they don't run everyday) but it is an all day trip. Sailing to Yost (Jost) is possible with lunch and did I mention snorkeling at Sandy Spit but that too is an all-day adventure - but a great one! Also you might find that you'll head right out to the other beaches since the Westin's being manmade is a far cry from the other great beaches on the island!

brenandg Jul 6th, 2007 03:05 PM

I agree, VG is too far for a half day trip. If NH II seems too busy, another one to check out is Lion in Da Sun It's a smaller catamaran. I'll post a link to their website at the end. They also have trips once weekly to VG through a "sign up" at Maho Bay Campground. I was researching to do a day trip to Jost Van Dyke and Sandy Cay but ended up not doing it. http://www.lionindasun.com/possibleC...s/fullDay.html

gplusg Jul 7th, 2007 09:27 AM

Virgin Gorda can be a great full day trip by powerboat. We have done this a number of times during the 35 years we have bee visiting the island

The itinerary is usually;
*motor to the Baths at Virgin Gorda--snorkel etc.
*motor to Cooper Island for lunch.The boat will radio ahead for your luncheon choices from their menue. Also great drinks and a nice shop.
*motor to a cove at Peter Island and snorkel.
*Motor back to St. John

The come from Red Hook in St Thomas but will pick you up at the Westin dock.

Take plenty of sun-tan lotion. They supply the drinks,and may also have some snorkling gear to borrow.

This is a great trip. The boat takes only about 10 people but it has the power to get you around quickly if you want.

You will need US passports for any visit to The British Virgins.

I really envy you.We have to pass for this year.

By the way,at this time of the year you can rent a very nice villa--some with pools- with several bedrooms and baths for same or better price than the Westin.

Try www.Cateredto.com

Tuxedocat Jul 7th, 2007 12:11 PM

Smoley: I'll add some comments regarding the BVI trips. There is a terrific catamaran which sails out of the Westin. (Can't recall exact name) It is all day and makes a couple of snorkel stops and then off to a leisurely sail to Jost Van Dyke for lunch at Foxy's and then over to White Bay where there's no dock so you have to swim to the "Soggy Dollar" Bar. The kids will love it! (Not really swimming, the boat will bring you in to about 4 ft. depth, pretty much walk ashore.) This is a very laid-back trip and the catamaran is pretty roomy. Usually not too many folks at one time. 6-12, I'd say. The Limnios is a larger motorboat (20-25?)which also leaves from the Westin. This goes out to Virgin Gorda and the Baths. It makes it there in a relatively quick 1 and 1/2 hours, a stop in Spanishtown for customs and about 15 minutes of shopping, then onto taxis and off to the Baths. I seem to recall about an hour spent checking out the unique environs of the Baths and some fun snorkeling around these amazing huge boulders. Then a quick rest stop at the restaurant at the top of the hill where the Baths are, and then back on the taxis and back to the boat. On the boat, we enjoyed a cold lunch of breads, cheeses, meats, and fruit. There's always all kinds of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages available on these trips. The next stop is at Norman Islands of "Treasure Island" fame where you can swim into a number of these "treasure" caves. There was a five foot barrecuda there who "recognizes" the Limnios and will hang out there waiting for little hand-outs. Completely harmless, never hurt anyone, just don't try to hold on to the food when he comes to get it. May be quite the thrill for your boys. We've also taken the Stormy Petrol out to the Baths (leaves from Cruz Bay). Like New Horizons II, this is a smaller motorboat. It comfortably carries 6-8. We had a wonderful time but we were all adults on that trip so I don't know what it would be like for small children. The smaller motorboats will always tend to have a somewhat rougher ride. It's fine if your kids feel comfortable with a few bumps. (I guess you can gage it from the ferry ride over to STJ.) Almost all of the operators charge around $120-150/person. I don't know what the discounts are for kids, but I do believe they get them. BTW, when you making your reservations, make sure you check on the site map which complex it's in. Also, I feel I need to offer another fond testimonial about Miss Vie. She's not "gabby" or solicitous in any way. Her family has been on STJ for centuries and it can be tiring constantly welcoming people into your home. I've had great, funny interactions with her. She has a reserved manner but a dry wit. If you like Asian food, you'll love her garlic chicken (the taste is fantastic). Her conch fritters are yummy as are her johnny cakes. But the top of my list is really her unique rice and beans. Spicy, aromatic and yes, a bit greasy. A lot of Caribbean food is fried. But she makes all of this stuff fresh and when she runs out she runs out! Her sister makes delicious "tarts" or pies. Your kids will love the pineapple tart. I think she may be selling hot dogs now too, if she's even open in August. Hawksbill sure has some refined tastebuds! I haven't had a bad meal at Miss Lucy's yet and I've probably been there dozens of times. Some meals were just okay good (mass barbeque during "Full Moon", great live entertainment though), and some were fantastic. They have a wonderful chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and spinach and drizzled in a delectable cherry cabernet sauce. Silly me, I dream about it sometimes. Unfortunately, they may not be open in August either. Check before you head out too far for any restaurant. Asolare does get mixed reviews too. Sometimes this is caused by chefs coming and going. The food there is generally reliably good. Every place can have an off night or two. But the ambiance is wonderful, looking out on Pillsbury Sound towards St. Thomas. I've never been to Tage, but I think they lost their chef recently. There was a negative review of it in another forum but nothing to do about food, just service attitude. As for the Westin rooms, just ask when it was last renovated. The poolview rooms as of 3 years ago seemed pretty new. The gardenview room was the only one out of the three that I thought seemed to be a bit dated. The furniture style looked older, but IMO it was very roomy and it certainly wasn't ugh. When you are making reservations, I don't think they can guarantee you any particular room, only a type of room. When they accidentally double-booked the large gardenview room, that's when they graciously upgraded us to the oceanview room. As for your car, we're so familiar with the driving there that it doesn't really matter to us, but for people who are not accustomed to it, four wheel drive just adds confidence and performance up those hills. (You remember those hills!?) IMO, if possible, I'd spend the extra bit of money for a four wheel drive like a Montaro or the Jeep Liberty. Is it absolutely necessary? No. Anyway, if you think of anything else, just ask.

hawksbill Jul 7th, 2007 05:11 PM

Tuxedocat: I appreciate your diplomatically referring to my taste as "refined!" :) I'll say this about Miss Lucy's... I'd go there for dinner even if all they served was cheese and crackers. Sometimes I've just gone there for an end-of-the-afternoon drink after a good day of snorkeling somewhere in the area.

I second the advice about renting a 4WD SUV, with one difference in opinion: I can't imagine driving in St. John without one! I always feel like I'd probably bust an axle or something if I tried driving a regular car around for more than a day or two. Maybe that will change someday with more experience. Although I'm not sure you'll ever catch me going up the switchbacks on North Shore road without 4WD.

smoley Jul 9th, 2007 03:47 AM

Thanks guys! Tuxedocat - I followed up on your suggestion originally regarding Limnos - and agree that the boys would love it. Will have to check out the catamaran too.

Also followed up with Lion in Da Sun! These guys look great! However, we have to charter the entire boat - $475 plus gas $100-150 - which is too steep for us alone. Is anyone out there interested in joining us August 11, 12 or 13?

Michele


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