| tivertonhouse |
Jan 26th, 2002 02:18 PM |
If you take B4, the mountain route from<BR>Reading to Ferris Cross on the South Coast either way into/outta Negril, there are some interesting diversions, aside from the vistas. At Anchovy/Rocklands, one can feed hummingbirds by hand at Lisa Salmon's Bird Sanctuary, just a short drive off the main. You'll pass through citrus country--most of it bank-owned plantations. Stop at any roadside stand for fresh citrus (ortanique is the pebbly orange/green ORANGE to look for since it's the sweetest on island, a cross between tangerines and sweet oranges). You'll also see bags of sweet oranges, grapefruit or the sweeter pomelo or shaddock, limes, breadfruit and plenty of small shops for a cold Red Stripe. The Lethe Estate is also just off the road, as near Whithorn, the road to the Blue Hole Gardens in<BR>Roaring River. Also at Whithorn, the road straight up the mountain has a private road off it, after some hairy,twisy airplane-turn climbs ,that leads to the ruins of Caledonia Great House, and the private Mountambrin estate (lunch available as are accomodations with advance notice--see www.mountambrin.com),the former retreat of Alex ('Roots')Haley. A marvel of eccentric sculptures and structures, the main house is a Frank Lloyd Wright-style beauty built by a 1930s overseer of the sugarcane plantation that stretches out 2 miles below in the valley out to sea. The quiet, the botanical gardens, the views here are mind-boggling. Once you hit the South Coast at Ferris Crossing, Tony Clarke's Paradise Park --look for the classic guardhouse and twin palms -- offers horseback riding through the huge grounds and beach/surf. The Univ.of Fla has ongoing archaeological digs here for early Taino cultures. If you want to experience a real market town, the hot one long street crammbed with sellers Sav/Savannah La Mar has a huge covered market at the very end at left<BR>(with a very good shop selling 'patties'in the alley just before it). You'll find numtmeg with the mace still on and homemade graters, baskets, meat,fruit,veg -- everything here fresh. Sav was the setting of Ian Fleming's book 'The Man with the Golden Gun' and has a certain scrufty hurry-hurry charm amidst all the noise. En route to Negril, you'll see large farms for tilapia/nile perch/pond fish for both the local and export market. In Negril, order it as an escoveitch, fried first, then bathed in a vinaigrette sauce and served warm or cold. Fly in from MoBay, give yourself plenty of time on final day to drive out--or exploring while you're there as well might be the best plan...
|