Caneel Bay Report
 

My husband and I recently returned from 5 days at Caneel Bay (11/26-12/1). This was our first time to St. John.

We arrived in the evening and were taken to our room on Hawksnest beach, and we were on the first floor. It was too dark outside to really see the place, so we just dropped off our stuff and headed to Cruz Bay for dinner. As I learned from this board, it was very easy to take a taxi into town and back.

The first day we spent snorkeling on our beach, Hawksnest, where we saw turtles and stingrays. Since that beach loses the sun sort of early, we went to Caneel Beach in the afternoon and did some more snorkeling over there. Saw lots of fish there.

Second day we did the scuba refresher class at the Caneel Dive Shop in the morning (we'd only been diving once in Grand Cayman) and we went out diving in the afternoon. I'm a total amateur, but although the diving was nice, I liked the diving better in Grand Cayman. But we ended the day with massages and had a very full day.

Third day we opted for a 2 1/2 hour taxi tour of the island with a 1 hour stop at Trunk Bay for snorkeling. It was nice to see some of the island and some of the other beaches. Trunk Bay was moderately crowded and, surprisingly to me, the water was sort of rough. We snorkeled there, but I think that the snorkeling and scenery at Caneel is just as nice, and obviously less crowded.

That afternoon we spent on Scott Beach. I loved this beach! More snorkeling (saw turtles and stingrays again), and we soaked up every last bit of sun. I can feel the warmth now!

Fourth day we went out diving in the morning again, and we spent the afternoon on Turtle Bay beach. Once again, water was surprisingly rough and not much to see in the way of fish.

Last morning we spent at Hawksnest and then we had to take the 3:00 ferry back to St. Thomas.

Overall, we had a very nice and relaxing time (it was our first vacation away from our 1 year old!). I got a lot of tips about the hotel and restaurants from this board, so thanks to everyone!

My husband and I were a bit underwhelmed with Caneel Bay. Nothing specific, but I think that we came to the conclusion that when we spend that kind for money for a hotel, we want what we define as "luxury" (i.e. marble bathrooms). I knew when making the plans that this was considered more of a "rustic" place, and that would have been okay, but I agree with some of the other posters that this place really needs a facelift. We did hear them doing some work on the Hawksnest rooms, but it never interfered with our peace and quiet.

We really picked St. John for the snorkeling and diving aspect, and that was very nice.

As for the food, after the first breakfast at the big buffet, we decided that not only did we not need to spend $29 per person for breakfast every day, but who needs to eat that much for breakfast -- especially when we didn't even enjoy the mediocre food! So we bought a box of Rice Krispies and milk and kept it in our room! (Sort of funny since we don't mind paying over $600 a night for the room, but we didn't want to spend $60 for breakfast!)

We had most lunches at the beach bar, and that was fine, probably the best food at the hotel. And for dinners, with the exception of 1 night, we went to Cruz Bay.

I'm glad we had the opportunity to go, but I definitely don't think I would run back so fast. In general, though, we like to try new places for each vacation.

Sorry for the long report, but I got a lot of tips here, so I wanted to report back. Thanks again!

valerie,
Thanks for the report! I can't wait for my upcoming trip to Caneel and St.John in June (193 days).

Where did you eat in St. John?

Thanks.

-Bill

Nice report Valerie. Caneel beaches sound amazing but for $600 a night I would want a fancy hotel room too.

valerie,

Never mind. I just saw your post on the St. John food thread. Thanks.

-Bill

I, and others, have been posting for years about Caneel. It is always mentioned that people expecting that big bucks will buy glitter and glitz and marble baths, etc. should go elsewhere; that the allure of Caneel is the West Indian casual lifestyle in an incomparable setting; that the money buys the seven tree-shaded white sand beaches with wade-in snorkeling into crystal clear water in the National Park with no development to be seen anywhere. That combination is very rare, hence the price.

As I mentioned, I was not expecting the glitter and glitz because I did a lot of research (here and elsewhere).

But, for example, when we were initially brought to our room, it was dark outside. We were shown into our room and the "guide" went to turn on a lamp, the lamp was broken (and it wasn't just the light bulb because she tried another bulb). She was sort of embarrassed and said "I'll be sure to get that fixed". We had to ask the front desk several times before the lamp was fixed -- it got fixed on day 3. Obviously there were other lamps in the room, but it irked me that it took that long to fix the lamp.

Also, the curtains in the room were somewhat mismatched and sort of a hodgepodge. Another minor detail, but it gave the room the look of a cheap motel.

Beaches, water, snorkeling were fantastic. Loved the seclusion/privacy that the place offered. But overall, the place seemed tired and in need of some updating.

Just curious. What food did you find 'mediocre'? I just returned from there three weeks ago, and felt the food was delicious.

Dianebridles,

We had the buffet breakfast only one day. Some of the hot food was cold (potatoes, fritatta) and the french toast was hard and dried out. My husband did enjoy the smoked salmon and he also had an omelette made, so maybe I should have gone that route instead. I honestly can't remember what else I had at that buffet.

We did enjoy the lunches at the grill. The french fries were great!

We didn't have dinner at the Equator or Turtle Bay Estate House, but that's mostly because we enjoy going into the town.

We had dinner one night at the "Grand Buffet". Lobster, pasta, salads, desserts, etc. Now that I think about it, I can remember what I ate at each different restaurant in Cruz Bay, but I can't even remember most of the details of what we ate at the dinner buffet. Everything looked nice, but to us, just tasted average, and was, obviously, unmemorable!

Valerie, I totally agree with you about the "Grand Buffet". I also don't blame you for expecting lamps that work--worse--being broken. Not a good introduction to Caneel.

Having said all of that, we love Caneel. We will be going back in November for the third time. Snorkeling available in two minutes from the room, is a big draw for me.

Last week, to our surprise, we found a better snorkeling spot than any of the Caneel beaches. Vieques. It is a repeat island for us. Owa

Thanks , Valerie, for your reply. I tended to opt for the cold breakfast buffet, but when including the hot, cooked to order is always better than earlier prepared. Were you aware that a complimentary continental breakfast is available each morning in the bar area?
I did eat at both Turtle Bay and The Equator , Initially I had planned to dine at Zozo's and Tage, but enjoyed the Caneel food, so I felt it wasn't worth the taxi hastle, although that service is good and quick. I did have three lunches at Lime Inn, because I was shopping and love their spinach salad topped with teriake shrimp. However I also enjoyed Caneel lunches too. I agree with you about the fries It is the only place that I allow my diet to enjoy that luxury.
Because the Caneel buildings are so spread out and their grounds so expansive, it is a much more costly resort to operate, which is reflected in room prices. I love it for its private, uncrowded spaciousness, its beautiful white sand beaches and snorkeling. It is my 'fantasy island'.
I have heard that when their remodeling is completed, the rooms will be furnished with teak furniture and will have a more islandy feel.
This past rip, I spent my first night in a gorgeous loft suite, complete with a for-two spa tub and separate glass shower, at Frenchman's Reef. While it has an outstanding view, Morningstar Beach is too crowded and the water too rough for good snorkeling, and I could't wait to get to Caneel. Everyone has different tastes, and it is fun to read diverse views, Thanks for your input. Diane

Anyone who plunks down $600+ per night on St. John is nuts. You can get all that Caneel affords you in a private villa on St. John for half that price. JMHO. I can't say that I have ever spent more than around $300/night to stay anywhere....but I have stayed places a lot nicer than Caneel for that.

CaribbeanSoul:
Different strokes for different folks. It is possible to POLITELY disagree, without challenging the sanity of those who take the time to write

Point duly noted.

I'm fascinated by this ongoing debate about Caneel's value. I intend to research it further this June. :-d

-Bill

In the event you're still a visitor to this forum, valerie... (or anyone else who knows) - - how does one get to Turtle Bay? Does it require approach from the sea (only)? by going around Hawksnest Point? See more of the context of this question on http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34780868

Thanks in advance... and...

Best wishes,

Rex

We're headed to Caneel 2 weeks from today...and we cannot wait to do absolutely NOTHING but sun, relax, snorkel, and absorb everything gorgeous about St. John! It's my first trip to the Caribbean and I am so excited. I've done the whole "luxury hotel" thing, and I'm (personally) looking forward to the get-away-from-civilization aspect. Living in NY..we totally need a relaxed island-time getaway!!!!

Hi Rex,

Turtle Bay is a private beach of Caneel's only for their guests. A dingy is not allowed, Since people are swimming/snorkeling there, and not easily visible to boaters, it is dangerous as well as inconsiderate. I suggest you opt for a public beach, moor the dingy and swim to the beach. There are strict rules conderning boating. I suggestnyou check with the National park Service or other appropriate agency to learn them, before renting.

Thanks, Diane, this is a helpful start - - I have looked at http://www.nps.gov/viis/VIISComp.pdf - - though it doesn't seem to contain much information about where can and cannot swim, nor operate something as "petty" (wrong word) as a dinghy to accompany swimmers. Could I ask you to take a look at my separately posted question - - on what we want to do?

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34780868

Will it be plainly marked, going around Hawksnest point, where the private boundaries of Turtle Bay begin? Is going out to Ramgoat Cay (from Hawksnest) loony?

While I am not a boater, I am very familiar with Caneel's beaches. Again, I would suggest checking with the US National Park Service on St. John, or perhaps US Department of Tourism to find where to obtain boat rule info. I am not familiar with the cay that you named, but have been snorkeling/diving around others that are nearby. There is a very busy, highly boat channel, including ferries, between them and St. John. Personally, I would be very nervous swimming in that channel.

I believe the swimming areas of Turtle Bay, Hawksnest ect. is marked by bouys indicating non-boat traffic, but it would be best to check with officils.

The book, "St. John Beach Guide" has a great airial map indicating every St, John Beach with bweautiful pictures of each.
National Park Service may also be able to guide you to the best and safest place to do your swim.

I believe that you along with the dingy could safely swim from side to side of the mouth of Turtle bay, which is to the land side right of Scott Beach, but it would bee wise to check.
Hope this is of some help.

Although I should, perhaps, try to drag this continuing discussion over to my "other" thread, I want to ask this here, since you are answering me here...

I did a screen capture from the NPS map, and posted it to my geocities page here;

http://www.geocities.com/rexbickers/HawksnestBay.JPG

Can you take a look at that? I wonder if it has Turtle Bay mislabeled, as you have explained it. It seems to refer to Turtle Bay as a tiny little spot... and gives no name to the large (white area) bay/beach between Caneel Bay and Hawksnest Bay. In fact, what they show as Turtle Bay has its shoreline in green (indicating park lands, right?) - - you can see Ramgoat Cay right north of there. And your reference to swimming across (the mouth of) Turtle Bay looks like barely a few hundred yards (maybe literally only one hundred).

Does looking at this map help?

I don't know where dinghy rentals begin - - perhaps at Cruz Bay? will it be inappropriate to travel by dinghy from Cruz Bay around to these north beaches?