BVI Tips and Advice
 

Just enterering to offer my experienced information and advice about sailing and land-visiting in BVI. DH and I own a catamaran anchored in BVI. Much travel experience between the two of us--especially on Tortola. He is down there right now acting as captain and tour guide for friends and family during the holidays. Please post me a note if you are a first-timer to BVI and have any questions. It's wonderful, the real rustic Caribbean experience if that's what you so desire.

P.S. This is not a sales pitch. We use our boat only for ourselves, friends, and family. After the apartment in Trastevere "accusation," I have to confess I am still a little bit paranoid about recommending anything or offering myself as a source for information. Trust me. I can help you with the BVI.

Awesome that he can captain for self and friends.

My friends took a charter last year with 4 other couples. Captain was a single man.

Captain sunbathed nude on the boat one day, hit on my friend (yes, her hubby was on the boat.

Friend was told that when they ate or drank off the boat, they had to pay for the expenses of the captain and the cook. On one trip, the captain and cook bought drinks for others at the bar. My friend and her group had to pay a $150 bar tab run up by the captain (did not include drinks of my friend and her group).

Hopefully this is an exception to the usual when chartering a boat and captain for a week. PS, The captain was not the owner of the boat.

LvSun, sorry to hear you had such a bad experience with this so-called "captain." If you rented through a charter company, I hope you reported his behavior to his employer. I don't have any experience with being on a boat that is chartered or has a hired captain. I've only been on our own boat with my husband plus friends and/or family. I guess it's fortunate that I'm married to the captain and don't have to encounter such rude and unprofessional behavior. Since our guests are exactly that--our guests, they pay us nothing. Generally they do contribute to groceries and booze for on-board consumption and will occasionally pay for the captain's and his wife's dinner ashore. I hope that you go to the BVI again and will have a better experience the next time. I don't go as often as my husband does because he likes the sailing life a lot better than I do. But I have been down there many times, on the boat and on land, and can hopefully help others with the experience I've gained. If I don't know the answer to your question, I will just ask the captain!

Hi JGarvey,
That is something my wife and I would love to own one day. A cat in the virgin isles. Woud your hubby be interested in taking us(wife, me and 1 yr old) on a day trip circumventing Tortola? (ie Norman Peter Gorda Joste) If so let us now what that might cost. We have looked into quite a few companies but the cost for most wasnt in our budget. Limnos was the most likely candidate. We are staying in Cruz Bay area St John but we could drive to Coral Bay for pu possibly? Just an idea?
Thanks

herbster, it's not clear if you are presently there right now or if you are still planning to go in the future. My husband is in Cane Garden Bay right now; we spoke today. He will be in BVI area until the end of January. Right now I am a sailor widow, doing the holiday with children and friends--my choice. As a matter of fact, we have friends (another cat owner) who have spent much time on their boat (as captain and cook) while taking cruisers around. Their baby (from infancy through toddlerhood) was with them from the beginning. They gave customers what they called "the screaming baby discount." But--I am getting off the subject. Please write back and tell me if you are in the islands now or will be there later, and I will forward this email to my husband (Captain Tom)on the boat and see what he thinks about taking you out for a day trip. He would probably enjoy the company!

Thanks for the quick reply! I apologize for not giving the dates. We arrive 12/31 and leave 1/5/07.
I look forward to hearing from you or the cap. Sorry to hear about widow for the holidays. We have often thought about packing it in here and bringing our little girl with us to the islands.
Thanks,
Herb

Dear Herb, well my DH will certainly still be there and would probably be delighted to show you the boat and sail you around a bit, if the two of you can figure out a way to hook up. He will have friends aboard during that time, but that should not pose a problem. I will contact him tomorrow and see if he can figure out a way to get in touch with you.

Don't feel bad about my not being on the boat for Christmas. I am leaving him alone in Feb./March and going to spend a month in Rome to visit our daughter. I'm even renting my own apartment. I prefer land, history, art, architecture, language, etc. He prefers boats, sailing, diving, snorkeling, and doesn't seem to mind seeing the same beaches over and over again. I hope you will be able to meet.

Thanks JGarvey! Email is [email protected] Have a great time in Rome! My wife and I are similar to both of you. She wants me to go to Europe and I am fine on the same beaches and island hopping.

Herb, this must really be fate. I see that your email has "sprint" in it. My husband used to work for Sprint years ago and runs his own business now in Telecommunications Consulting. I wil send him your email today. Sounds like as a couple we have a lot in common. We'll talk again soon.

Joanna

Herb, sent your email address to my husband and he will surely contact you soon. He loves to talk to other cat enthusiasts. Only problem may be that you are on St. John in USBVI and he stays only in BVI. But he is still going to contact you and investigate what might be possible.

Thanks for the help and giving him my email. We could probably drive and leave the car in Coral Bay so it would be real close to Tortola. I will look forward to his email. Thanks much!

Herbster, I'm totally confused here. How can you "drive" from St. John to Tortola? What exactly are you talking about? You can only get there by water ferry, right? Help me out with this. Hope you hear from Tom soon.

Joanna

We are staying near Cruz Bay, St John and can drive the rental car to Coral Bay, St John which is a short boat ride from Tortola. Coral Bay is on the west end of St John.

Isn't Coral Bay on the EAST side of St John??

Yup, my bad. I meant to say east end of St. John.

I keep reading about hiring taxis to get around Tortola etc. Is there any kind of local bus system that travels around the island?
thanks

Nope, sorry. And you are always taking your chances with the quality of the taxi and the driver. Although charges are supposed to be controlled, always check when you get in, especially how the rate may or may not be determined by number of passenger. Some people love the BVI because it is still pretty rustic and unspoiled, but there will be some unknowns to deal with. My husband is down there right now with his cousin and his wife, on their way by catamaran to Anagad--lobster dinner on the beach, candles, sand in your toes. Hope you enjoy it all, the good along with the inconvenient. jg

Herbster, are you there yet? I have to recheck your dates. DH is still there now with his cousin and his wife. I get confused with his schecule and itinerary, but I do know that they are on Anegada tonight enjoying a lobster dinner on the beach with their toes in the sand. If you are still interested in hooking up with him for a short sail on the cat, please contact him through his email that I gave you earlier. It might still be a possibility. jg

jgarvey - thanks so much for the offer. My husband and I are going on a catamaran cruise of BVI starting June 30th. We are touring with Tradewinds Cruise Club. This will be our first experience with this type of vacation and would appreciate any advice you can offer. I believe the itinerary is already determined, but if there is a "must do" suggestion, we may be able to customize. Also, any packing tips? I am already concerned about overpacking. And then finally, we are flying into St. Thomas and taking the ferry to Tortola. Our flight is scheduled to arrive at 2:05 pm and there is a ferry at 3:30pm and 4:30 pm - should we be concerned about timing? All information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Kimberly, are you connected to Herb? Are you just returning from your first trip? Not clear. Have we communicated before?? I am confused about connection between this post and the one from Herb. Does this mean you are going back in June? Help, confused. Is this your first reply to my earlier post and offer for assistance?

Anyway, no problem about reaching the ferry in St. Thomas on time, unless there is a huge cruise ship in port and hundreds of cruisers crossing the street and holding up traffic. So, if you miss the first ferry, you take the second. Relax, it's "island time." It's a great experience to sit on top of the ferry, with beautiful views, unless it rains. That's the first thing you have to get used to--island time and rain that quickly comes and goes.

Tradewinds is a very large and reputable operation,from the little I know about them. If you have any free time away from the schedule, I will be happy to give you some info and tips, especially about Tortola, the island I know the most about.

Packing? Ha! My best subject!! I have overpacked so many times that I am a real pro on this subject. First, the only underwear you will need is what you fly down there in and what you will fly back with. Bathing suits (at least two, one on while one is drying )and quick-dry nylon shorts with a lining the rest of the time. Camies with built-in bras or not, your preference. Only one or two standard tee-shirts with short sleeves. Many times I have brought several and not worn a single one, because even they can seem too hot to put on.

No nightgowns, robes or slippers. Sleep in tank tops and light shorts that you can wear up-deck for coffee, maybe with a light shirt thrown over for modesty. For on-shore dinners at nicer restaurants, maybe one cute sun dress, capris, or light pants. Halter tops are cool and sexy (again, no bra required for these). If it's cool, throw a light shirt over and then remove if you are warm. Sometimes the dingy ride to the beach can be a little cool with water spray coming at you, so a light windbreaker with hood can come in handy for these ventures or the cooler ride back to the boat. Most useful, a sarong or pareo that you can wrap around your bottom and also use as a shawl at night. Take one and then buy another down there. They are everywhere, cheap, and colorful--the real island uniform. Sometime I wear mine up high, cross over my chest, and tie behind my neck. Then it becomes a very cute island dress!

Leave all your good jewelry at home, and remember to remove anything shiny or sparkly before you go snorkling. The fish, some with teeth like the baracuda, could be attracted to these. I leave diamonds and gold at home and wear some cheap silver. Buy a nice larimer-stone pendant while you are down there if you get a chance to do some shopping. It is considered the gemstone of the islands, though mined in the Dominican Republic I believe. Another great local purchase, the Caribbean-knot bracelet. Just ask about it down there. It is worn with hook (cleat) facing out or in, if you are married or not. Many say it is the universal sign among comrads that you have been to "the islands."

Shoes? On ship I wear flip-flops or light-weight Keds. But for moving on and off the boat and into dinghies, you want something that will not fall off your feet and that is waterproof. For me, those are my trusty Tevas.

Your normal city make-up will be a total waste of space and time. Sunscreen is your best friend, for protection and moisturizing. No blush or foundation necessary; your cheeks will be glowing from the sun! I use a little under-eye concealer (my best friend), brush my eyebrows, maybe a little mascara if I'm feeling ambitious, and some lip gloss. Voila! Ready to go and looking gorgeous and healthy from all of that sun and fresh air. Wonderful freedom.

Accesories: a hat or visor of course (my husband loves his Tilley), sunglasses with those little safety strings so they don't blow off, hair scrunchies or barettes, a bandana for neck or hair.

Get a great pedicure, but forget the manicure (it will be destroyed by sea salt and boat life) and just put on some clear polish. Also handy, those little pre-moistened cloths that you can wipe your face and freshen up with.

And then, of course, your own personal meds and first aid. Have I forgotten anything? I don't think so. I have been waiting all of my life to write this list, as you can tell. Hope it helps you to prepare your great tropical adventure! jg

It must be fabulous to have the freedom of a catamaran in the Caribbean. Color me green...:-)
My DH of 36 years and I will be on Virgin Gorda in May. I would love to "hire" your hubby to be our captain for day. Would he consider, do you think?

jgarvey - not connected with Herb - I was taking you up on your offer for information. Sorry for any confusion.

We are first-timers to BVI and to sailing - thank you so much for all the great information.

Kimberly, there is so much I can tell you. First, though, we use our cat only for personal travel and entertaining friends and family. But I have told my husband that if he really does want to spend so much time down there, he really should consider offering himself and his boat for day trips to people just like you and pick up a little extra money.

Maggi, must let you know, however, that DH will not be down there in May--as the boat will be in charter and available only for hire from the charter company that keeps our boat and rents it out when we or not there. We have never actually stayed on Virgin Gorda, only anchored there for a couple of hours (because your time there for anchor is restricted) to go snorkling and hiking around The Baths. Just gorgeous.

Nevertheless, I do have a wealth of info about Tortola, where our boat is kept, and also have a lot of practical advice for what to pack and what to expect in the BVI.

If either of you have some specific questions or want ino about Tortola, fire away. It really is paradise, but let me reassure you that living on a sailboat is not like staying in a luxury resort or hotel. I call it "high-class" camping, and it is not something I want to do all the time. DH likes the lifestyle and the sailing a great deal more than I do, which is why he is down there right now and I am home with my cats and my other creature comforts. Please write again. jg

jgarvey - My husband and I are leaving for Long Bay Beach Resort in less than a week. I hope to go to the Sugar Mill, Banakeet, and several casual spots for dinner. Do you have a recommendation for a breakfast spot or two near the resort?

Since we are only going for 4 nights, we just want to go to the beach, snorkle, have a few drinks, read and maybe pick up a few mementos. I'd like to go to Smugglers Cove one day, spend some time at Cane Garden Bay and also enjoy Long Bay. Is there anything that we should do that is not on our somewhat relaxed list? I considered taking a ferry to another island but we'll only be on Tortola a short time and we have been to Jost(on our honeymoon 18 years ago and last year with the children on a day trip from St. John), the Baths, and Marina Cay. Any advice you may have is greatly appreciated.

We have stayed at the Long Bay Beach Resort, and I just loved it! Of course, I love any time we take a break from the boat to enjoy a little luxury and comfort, not to mention unlimited amounts of hot water and a toilet that flushes the normal way. Honestly, the resort is not really close to any other place without a bit of a car ride. We ate all of our meals right there in their casual, on-the-beach restaurant--but not breakfast. Since we usually sleep in pretty late, we just do lunch and dinner. On one of the week-nights (Tuesday I believe), they have a huge lovely all-you-can eat buffet.

There are also two other places to eat at the resort--a poolside swim-up-and-sit-in-the-water-while-you-eat-and-drink (great burgers) and also a fancy, dress-up restaurant which was not open when we were there.

The other places you mention, we have not eaten at, but I hear that the Sugar Mill, connected with the hotel, is lovely and also on the beach. If you want to splurge on an incredible gourmet experience and a Jesus-God sunset, go to Brandywine. Almost as good, the Spaghetti Junction (the jambalaya pasta is to die for. As we say in New Orleans--"Talk about good!"

If you get to Cane Garden Bay, all of the places along the beach are pretty much the same. Our favorites are Myetts and Quito's. Cool thing about Myetts is this huge grill-in-the-round sort of thing that you can walk around and choose your own fabulous grilled meats and vegetables from. The ribs everywhere in the BVI are good. We have also not tried Mrs. Sudcliff's but might next time--a great older local woman who cooks from her own garden and prepares only one meal a night, but still supposed to be fabulous. I also enjoy a day at Soper's Hole, a little shopping and lunch or dinner at Pusser's--best pain-killer on the island (because of Pusser's famous rum of course). There is also a Pusser's in Road Town. Pusser's also has an all-you-can eat shrimp special on Tuesday nights--seasoned Caribbean style.

Well, I'd better stop for now, getting hungry. Hope I helped with these few suggestions.

Thanks for the feedback! Just a few more questions since I need to get my life at home in order before we go...What car rental business would you recommend? I was going to call National tomorrow since they have a location at or tie in to Long Bay. Is it difficult to find parking in Road Town? Thanks so much. We are looking forward to are trip with 4 days to go!

lovethecape -- a nice plce for breakfast is Sebastian's. we have stayed there and their breakfasts are terrific and the view lovely. /north shore. we've also stayed at Long Bay resort and enjoyed also but like the BK at sebastians the best !!

LovetheCape, Actually there is a rental car service right there in the resort, but I can't recall the name of the company, probably is National. Very convenient, waiting for you and returned right there. On the premises is also two nice gift shop with cute clothes and souvenires, as well as a small Columbian Emeralds jewelry store (just a thought?, emeralds are a great buy in the islands, as well as tanzanites). You should also know that there is a small convenient store there too, for essentials or even wine and cheese.

No, it is definitely not difficult to park in Road Town, and if you there don't miss the little local craft area, situated across the road from Pusser's. It looks almost like a little village of separate painted cottages. Be sure to wait until you are there to buy yourself a sexy sarong, beautiful prints and colors. Especially, don't miss the original main street area, back from the present modern road that runs along the beach. This is a very picturesque little area with lots of cute stores and art galleries, also places for some local seasonings and food items as well. Many jewelry stores. Be sure to buy an inexpensive larimer stone ring or pendant; they come from the Dominican Republic and are known as the jewel of the Caribbean. My personal is my Caribbean knot bracelet, a favorite of island goers. The direction in which you point the cleet shows if you are married or free (kind of like the claddagh ring of Ireland. It's sort of like the badge of display that you have been to the Caribbean and will recognize it on other island travelers occasionally. I believe the design originated with a jewelry maker in St. Lucia, but now you see it everywhere. If you are brave enough to handle a car on roads with hair-pin curves and remember to stay on the left--you might also be brave enough to drive up to the top of the island to Sage Mountain Lookout. Breathtaking views and rainforest to go hiking through--just remember to throw some hiking shoes and not flip-flops in the back of the car.

I just realized that I am addressing you as if you are a woman. If you are a man I will be very disappointed that I just told you to buy yourself some jewelry and a sexy sarong. Ah well, it's the islands. Write again if you have any more questions.

You will love this trip! I always love it when I am in a resort and not on the boat!! jg

Thanks tess and jgarvey. Yes I am female and I don't have a sarong. I'll give it a try. I do have a larimar pendant from St. John and I love it. I will look for the bracelet because I read a lot about it when reseaching St. John last year. It reminds me of the "cape cod" bracelet that is very popular (I lost mine but everyone in New England has one now). I'll call about a car tomorrow since we do want to explore the island.

I've also been reading about many sailing and catamaran trips on the BVI board. It sounds exciting and I thought about it for my entire family but we do like our hot showers, toilets that flush, and the boys like to meet other kids at the resorts we been to. I think I'm a day sail type of girl. Many thanks!

Been there twice in a year
See my personal web site (no ads or sign ins)
www.tabhauser.com and click Tortola or Luxury Charter write up. This is two different looks at the beautiful BVI's
Thanks for the tips here

tabhauser, great trip report. My husband and I returned from Tortola about two weeks ago and I would consider going back with our children who are beginner surfers.

jgarvey and all who offered advice - We had a great trip. We loved the beach at Long Bay Resort for running, walking and reading. Smugglers Cove was fantastic as well as the lovely woman who sold us lunch, water and smoothies. Unfortunately, the water was rougher than typical so we didn't get to snorkle. We dined at Palms Delight, Banakeet, Sugar Mill, and Coco Plums and had good to very good meals at them all. Sebestaians was great for breakfast and I thought it would be a cute place to stay. We saw Quito at Cane Bay and went to Jost van Dyke on the ferry and walked over to White Bay. Not bad for 5 days/4 nights. We loved Tortola.

I will also be on a Tradewinds cruise in the BVI but on June 9th. It will be our first time on a cat and first time in the BVI. We are actually flying into St. Thomas two days prior. I'm very excited but also very nervous about this trip. It was my idea and it sounds absolutely fabulous. There will be four of us going so it should be a hoot.

I've read about possible jellyfish at certain times of the year and also about
annoying bugs. Does anyone have any recommondations to keep the bugs and the jelly's at bay? What will the water temps be that time of year?

Thanks for any replys

There will definitely be jellyfish at that time of year--hard to completely avoid. Best recommendation--take a good look around all sides of your boat and wait a few minutes before you jump in; seems they like to hang out around the boats. You can't miss them because they are really very beautiful, and some are quite large. They are called "Moon Jellyfish" because of their beautiful indigo and violet color, and the distinctive glowing clover-like design on the top.
Best antidote for sting, which I caught on a Travel Channel special on TV--plain white vinegar. Keep a bottle in the galley just in case. Remember, they are not out there just aiming for you and wanting to sting you. They are just beautiful floating organisms, and it is you who just happen to get in their way. Too bad!

Please don't be anxious or nervous. Remember to pack very very light. Even though I am an experienced traveler to BVI, I still notice that I bring home clean clothes never worn. I have typed out a do's and don't bring list for my friends and relatives, and will see if my husband can assist me to get it printed out this post.

Read some of my other posts on this thread for other info and advice about places to anchor, snorkel, eat, sleep, visit, etc. You will have a life-transforming experience, I promise. jg

JGarvey,
Thanks for your quick response. I will be sure to have some white vinegar on hand.
I've read your other suggestions and will keep them close at hand when we pack.

From all of the wonderful things I'm hearing about Tortola, I wish we had planned to stay a few days after the Tradwinds part of the trip.

The Tradewinds cat is supposed to have airconditioning. Does anyone know if this is true or just a myth.