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Xmas trip Nanaimo/Tofino/Victoria
We are late in planning our Xmas trip - we go away every year but this season has been fraught with troubles of one sort or another.
Anyway - we were thinking of spending Xmas to New Years in Victoria/Nanaimo/Tofino for about a week. DH thinks Victoria would be nice but i've heard form friends it's overbuilt and not that lovely. If we had a week once we get to Vancouver, would it make sense ot spend 3-4 days in Tofino and hten ??? Any ideas would be helpful. I know this is late and a lame post but we're just looking for some respite from a difficult autumn... We are middle aged, like nature but not extreme hikes esp in winter but like the cold weather that we don't get much of here . |
I currently live in Nanaimo, and it has a mild, rainy sort of climate in the winter. It has a lovely harbour, great arts and theatre, some great dining options and some nice boutique hotels, such as the Dorchester.
Tofino is lovely, and during the winter months you can get some really resonable rates at many of the finer hotels. I would reccommend the Wickaninnish or the Long Beach Lodge. There are other places to stay if you are more budget conscious, but many of the places provide a nice "lodgey" atmosphere with cozy fireplaces, hot tubs and comfortable rooms. Stormwatching is a big draw in the winter, and watching the waves crash against the rocks on a really tempestuous day is quite stunning; makes for some great photos. I also enjoy Victoria in the winter, and there are some fun activities to do in town, including the winter wonderland at Butchart Gardens where you can enjoy some outdoor ice skating. There is also Handel's Messiah, Cinderella, the Nutcracker, and the big BC 150 exhibits at the Royal BC Museum. Any of the places you are thinking of going offer something different, but each one is worth the trip. For more information about Nanaimo, Tofino, Victoria and other destinations on Vancovuer Island, visit my blog at www.explorevancouverisland.ca |
I spent Christmas in Tofino 2 years ago--we rented a house on Chesterman Beach for 5 days and it was great. Walking on the beach, even in the wind and rain, was exhilerating and fun. We cooked in most nights, but Christmas Eve dinner at the Pointe restaurant at the Wick was a highlight of our trip.
I think Victoria would be worth a day or two if only for the holiday lights and decorations. |
Thanks for the great responses! Now a followup - I didn't really look at the map before I asked the question so I didn't have a good sense of the geography.
If we do two out of 3 - Victoria /Nanaimo or Victoria/Tofino - which might offer the most distinctive trip? Or does one pair offer something special the other wouldn't? Thanks so much - |
Victoria and Tofino without a doubt.
Victoria has some fantastic attractions, and no, I would not say that it's overbuilt. I mean, it's all in context, right? Victoria is city, not a village, so if you're seeking a lonely forgotten fishing village, Victoria isn't like that. Yet, compared to large cities like Vancouver or Seattle, Victoria seems almost sleepy. Victoria is indeed a very charming city as it has a lot of Victorian architecture, and I would say that it's quite lovely... but again, if you're seeking a bustling metropolis, it's not that either. The Royal BC Museum, the BC Parliament buildings, Emily Carr House, Fort Street, and the seaside from Dallas Road at Beacon Hill Park are my favourite parts of Victoria. Since it's such a small city, you can access all these places on foot. Tofino is a 5 hour drive away from Victoria in a different climate zone. Unlike Victoria, which is a city is tens of thousands, Tofino is a village surrounded by wild, rugged coastline, beaches, and old growth temperate rainforest. It's where you go for your wilderness fix. The rainforest trails in the Pacific Rim National Park are the most spectacular. Most of "Tofino"'s attractions aren't even located in the village, but are located along the 40km stretch of coastline between the villages of Tofino and Ucluelet. You'd want a car for that region. |
I live in Ladysmith which is just south of Nanaimo. If you stay in Nanaimo you should try to come down to Ladysmith one evening to see our Christmas lights they are amazing!
Victoria is beautiful and if you are into storms and huge waves I hear Tofino is the place to be. Whatever you choose to do if you have time to take the train north from Victoria it offers great views. I was just on the train and the scenery is amazing. If you do go to Victoria there is an amazing amount of stuff to do. We have done the double decker bus just outside of the Empress Hotel and it was a great tour and I learned a lot about Victoria I did not know (despite living on the Island). Also, there is a walking tour of Chinatown (that is free!) and it had a lot of information about the Chinese in British Columbia. (If you want the info let me know and I will try and track it down). Victoria also has the Museum and the IMAX movie which is always fun and if you do go to Victoria you can't miss having High Tea at the Empress, it is expensive but you are on vacation. I hope you have a great vacation! |
Thanks for the helpful responses- I'll let you know what we decide!
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I'd definitely vote for Victoria/Tofino if you're doing a 2 out of 3. That way you'll get the most variety. Victoria is a lovely little city and will be very pretty around Christmas. The natural beauty of Tofino is amazing. It would be a shame to travel on the Island and miss it.
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This would likely not be a problem during your visit - but it might be. The Malahat - the section of the highway between Victoria and Nanaimo - can be treacherous in bad wintry weather. Right now it's bare; we don't have any snow or ice and that might well be the case when you're here. But the further north ("up-island" as locals call it) you go, the greater the possibility that you might encounter bad weather. The Malahat is a beautiful scenic drive throught mountains, but if it's shrouded in fog or icy, you need to allow lots of extra travel time.
Downtown Victoria is lovely these days! I'm not sure what your friends mean when they say it's overbuilt. There aren't a lot of towering condos obscuring the views, or anything like that. |
My guess is that the only way people can claim Victoria's overbuilt would be if they were looking for a secluded wilderness holiday on Vancouver Island. Otherwise, I agree, it's a weird statement, especially considering that Victoria's a small city as far as cities go, and it's practically skyscraper free.
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LOL.....now, I must admit that it has been almost 2 years since I was last in Nanaimo, but has it changed a great deal since then?
I can't imagine anyone seriously considering Nanaimo as a tourist destination -especially with all of the wonderful alternatives available on Vancouver Island. cheers Jerry |
We're actually going to Victoria between Christmas and New Years. Victoria is very different in winter than in summer. It is crowded in summer and touristy. In winter, it is neither.
Last time we went in December, the weather was good enough to bicycle along the sea wall. There aren't as many touristy things going on after Christmas, but there are lots of thigns to do. We went to Buchardt Gdns at night and saw the "Twelve Days of Christmas" lights. "A Christmas Carol" was playing at the Emily Carr House, but we missed it. Instead, we got to see a wonderful story telling of one of her stories, read by someone dressed as her. We also went to Craigdarroch Castle, where there was beautiful period Christmas music sung by a small group. Plus there's the great BC Museum to visit. Also, we visited the Oak Bay area, a sort of alternative shopping area - much more villagy than the downtown. There are teas to go to, great restaurants. You can get spa services, go to the Y to swim, go for walks on the water. I prefer Victoria in winter to Victoria in high season and the prices are way better at the hotels. As for Nanaimo, not so much to do. It has a nice waterfront park but this isn't a great time of year to enjoy it. The old town is being redone but is very small. There's a little history museum. It's more of a working town than a tourist destination. Tofino is great but a bit hard to get to. I wonder if there isn't another out-of-the way seaside option that is just around west from Victoria where you don't have to cross the mountains. |
Orcas, there is. It's the region people refer to as "Sooke" although I'd even take it further west and suggest the Juan de Fuca Provincial Park. While it lacks the grandeur of stepping out on a beach in Tofino, the temperate rainforest is similar!
Here are some photos and writing about the time I spent there in July of 2007: http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/1b080/dcb2f/ http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/1b080/dcb2f/4/ |
"<i>I can't imagine anyone seriously considering Nanaimo as a tourist destination -especially with all of the wonderful alternatives available on Vancouver Island.</i>"
<u>Quite</u> agree-Nanaimo is the one out of three that you should give a miss. |
Nice, Carmanah! I looked at the BC Parks website for the Juan de Fuca pk. There are some lovely b&b's there. Maybe next time we go we'll mix it up. Honestly, getting to Tofino from Seattle is very time-consuming.
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Sooke is beautiful - we live there! I drive into Victoria to go to work several days a week and I marvel at how lovely the drive is, even when it's wet and rainy. Walking out on Whiffin Spit is glorious, especially on those days when there is some sunshine. There's a big Christmas tree on the Spit that everyone decorates with whatever they like - shoes, kitchen gadgets, Christmas ornaments, whatever - I'm just waiting for the light to be perfect so that we can photograph it for our family back East.
There are views to be admired, pleasant B&Bs to stay in, and we're not so far from Victoria - it's easy to enjoy both. |
Meetshare, Would it be a nice place for a day trip from Victoria? If so, where would be a good place to eat? What sorts of activities - cute stores? Pretty walks?
We haven't decided whether to take the Clipper from Seattle or drive to Pt. Angeles and take our car. If we go to Sooke, we'd need a car. (I've noticed the Sooke Harbor House before but the accomodations are out of our price range. I hear the restaurant is good. We don't need expensive, though. Just yummy.) |
There are lots of nice places to eat in Sooke, although the top three "fine dining" establishments - Point No Point, Markus, and Sooke Harbour House - are closed in January. Anyway - that wasn't your question!
You might want to try Chemainus, about an hour up-island from Victoria, for a day trip. And definitely Butchart Gardens is gorgeous at this time of year; you could spend most of a day there. I don't know if it's accessible online - might be worth a try - but the current issue of "Westworld" which is the BCAA monthly publication, has a great article on day trips from Victoria at Christmas time. See if you can access it, and if you can't, post back here and I'll try to offer a concise description of what they suggest. |
Could not find an issue of Westworld on line.
We have been to Chemainus before and seen the murals and little shops. We've actually been to several of the Gulf Islands and really enjoy them. We've been up to Sidney and Sidney Spit, which is amazing, but a summer destination, and to Tofino in summer. Been to Nanaimo and Parksville (summer destinations, in my mind) and seen the goats on a roof. What a blast! We haven't been on Vancouver Island north of Parksville, but we don't want to be driving too far this trip as we won't have that much time. One day, I'd like to go far north on the island. We're more interested in interesting things close to Victoria this trip, which is why the Sooke area interests me. It's a bit of the wild, which I think mixes well with the city. I'm thinking we'll drive. The Clipper is a lot more expensive and the drive to Port Angeles is pleasant. Plus it will be nice to have the car and it's easier to carry anything we might purchase. |
I actually did manage to access it online - try googling "BCAA Westworld." The current issue is readable and the article about day trips from Victoria is quite detailed and helpful. Let me know if you're continuing to have difficulty and I'll try to post the link (if I can figure out how!).
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Found this link:
http://www.bcaa.com/wps/portal/membe...s.xsl/7549.htm I just copy it out of the top line on my screen. This has some interesting info! Thanks so much! |
You're very welcome!
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Wow great info! thanks - we have formalized out trip -
Xmas eve in Vancouver Ferry to Victoria Xmas Day, stroll around . eat 26, 27 prob in Victoria also 28-29-30 in Sooke and environs 30- back to Victoria 31 - to Vancouver Jan 1 - home Now to go book car, rooms etc. We'll likely just get the car in Victoria and return it there. Driving to YVR is a pain and takes more time than taxi, plus we have an early AM flightt and every minute extra of sleep will count!! Thnkns for ALL the great suggestions - |
I don't think the ferries run on Christmas. You'd better check on that.
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Actually, I just checked myself. It's looks like they run on the holidays and have extra ferries around the holidays. I'd suggest you call them, though. You may need to arrive early or consider reservations around the holidays.
See you in Victoria! I'll be the one with the red scarf (hahaha). You can get really good rates on hotels on the internet. |
Yes, and I'll see you in Sooke! I'll be the one in the red coat. Not to be confused with Orcas in the red hat.
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I don't think you can reserve the ferry if you aren't taking a car.
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You don't need a reservation if you don't have a car.
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You don't even need a reservation on the bus if you're taking it across on the ferry.
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By way of thanking all of you for your great suggestions, I would like to give a mini trip report on our Xmas excursion. I've read Aduchamp's review of Vancouver as well as others' recent trips and hope this adds to the wealth of knowledge about our northern neighbor. Feel free to post any specific questions.
First as a side note - I have known aduchamp online for many years form the old AOL boards and he is a true citizen of the world, as well as a helpful and knowledgeable poster. I would not be as harsh on Vancouver as he is but I share some of his sensibilities. Anyway - we totally lucked out on weather, and I feel a pang of sadness to know that so many people who wanted to make it home, or on a trip for Xmas, were stuck in SEA or YVR or otherwise in a mess. Our flights went off perfectly although those same flights had been canceled or severely delayed in the days prior. Even our little AC Jazz Dash-9 propelled its way through the rain and snow to get us to SEA yesterday! If you ever need an airport hotel in YVR, the Delta Airport Hotel is great - clean rooms, altho 80's decor, good food via Room Service 24/7 which at 10 PM on Xmas eve was a big plus, and right across from the public bus to Tsawassen for $2.50. We booked the Fairmont Empress in Victoria for 2 nights, with a special AAA rate of $153/night CAD plus a $25 CAD rebate at the end of the stay. We had a lot of email and phone problems prior to our arrival, with misdirections around getting from the Victoria Ferry (there ARE public buses , very inexpensive) as well as the fact that dining reservations etc need to be booked online but their email system is a bit batty. No one answered the phones in the dining rooms when we were trying to book Afternoon Tea, the front desk kept me on hold - so we had some doubts. We've stayed n Fairmonts (the old CP chain) in Banff , Lake Louise, SF and others and loved them, but this new internet system has got to go. I agree w/ the reports on tripadvisor and elsewhere - it's nowhere near the belle of the Fairmont chain, the rooms need some freshening but the staff are amazing. Since I had let them know it was my birthday when I made the rez. I got a special birthday dessert for free and wound up getting 2 because on Xmas night the kitchen was closed for all but the Curry Buffet so they gave me some truffles instead and let me come back the next night! Which was the dessert buffet - which was amazing - tiny tarts, cakes, mousse! We did have the Curry Buffet for Xmas dinner and I highly recommend it. Not just curries but tandoori and all kinds of indian breads - and that elegant rice pudding, kheer. Their location is great, pool and hot tub were relaxing and the spa is one of the best. But it's the staff that made the stay really exceptional. Walking around Victoria, I have to say since I live in a large city, seeing another city with a ton of chain stores and crazed shoppers on Boxing Day wasn't really my cup of tea. I know people scoffed at me thinking it was overbuilt, but I think for my taste it wasn't really what I 'd hoped. We didn't go to Butchart Gardens as the $22.50/person put us off and it was bitter cold. I did enjoy the Dutch Bakery ad walking around OldTown and browsing the antique stores. We then picked up a rent a car and headed off towards Sooke. We had done some preliminary checking on the internet about B+B's but wanted to get there before we decided. Sooke was much smaller than we imagined - I think I was thinking more like Mendocino CA or something - but that made it all the more charming Even in winter it was beautiful and the B+B we found was perfect. We had gone to the visitor center just as it was closing, but the volunteer pointed us to the OUTDOOR computer which gave listings of al the ldging that had room that night - a great idea! We chose the Ocean Wilderness Inn- run by an American couple who were born to run a B+B. They have a large building with ground floor pet-friendly rooms, and then a smaller building of which we took the top floor with a soaking tub and king bed. Amazing views and the sound of the surf...We spent 3 mornings over breakfast (we were the only guests) talking and sharing experiences and the rest of the time walking down the (slippery) path to the beach or just drinking tea in the great room. There's also a hot tub in the gazebo building but it was to cold for us to walk the short path! (especially since we had our own soaker tub) I wanted to stay longer....especially after the great breakfasts of local fruit and delicious pancakes. It was a bit pricier than we'd hoped $170 CAD plus tax - but well worth it and I'd do it again in a heartbeat! We walked around town as well to the bookstore, the Spit and we got very relaxed. We had one dinner at the Stone Pipe Grill that was very good and the berry crumble is buttery and rich. Didn't see anyone on a red coat tho. If we'd had internet I might have posted for a meetup :) After 3 days it was time to make our way back - the weather was getting a bit dodgy and we were scheduled to bring the car back. We debated going straight back to Vancouver for a couple of days but we decided to go back to Victoria for one more night. We took a room at the Marriott Inner Harbor ($84 USD on the priceline non-bid site) We really liked the Marriott - better than the Empress in terms of the room, the location, and the staff were just as nice. We ate in the bar/restaurant as it was blowing a gale and were incredibly impressed with the food. I had a pasta primavera with chicken and fresh egg pasta which was really one of the best pasta dishes I've had anywhere, and Mr. Mztery had a crab cake and tomato/fennel soup that was also out of this world. I know it sounds weird to extol a hotel restaurant with such praise but the food was some of the best we had on our trip. The only downside was the rude families in the pool who let their kids scream and yell and do cannonballs inches away from my head. I think ALL hotels with pools need someone at least walking thru once in a while. For a longer stay I would have complained. We then took the public bus express - $2.25 - back to Swartz Bay Ferry and then the Pacific Coast bus back to Vancouver. From the Bus depot there we took the Skytrain directly to our hotel the Pan Pacific ($84 on Priceline bid site) We LOVE the Pan Pacific! We have stayed there once before and even though it's a cruise ship hotel with 100 rooms and they have a lot of package tours etc - they staff are incredibly gracious, the rooms are spotless and very comfortable, they have milk for your coffee/tea in the mini bar and the beds are dreamy! It's on the Skytrain route and just a couple of blocks form the downtown buses which take you anywhere in the city. We did have the dilemma that we had a 7 Am flight on New Years Day, and of course for new years eve there would likely be room parties etc. We explained this to the desk clerk when we checked in ,and she was gracious enough to give us a room overlooking the city on the 21st floor, high enough that we wouldn't hear the party downstairs, away from any suites or other large rooms that might have groups for the evening. It worked great - we went to bed at 9 PM and didn't hear a sound till the alarm woke us at 4 AM. We did have a very early light dinner in the bar area (the dining area was closed for the New Years Festivities) and it was good. Excellent chowder, onion soup and a small choco-raspberry mousse. About Vancouver- I've been to Vancouver over 10 times. It used to be one of our favorite long weekend getaways, we have some family nearby and we have always had a good time there indoors or out. This trip was not so pleasant in some respects . We have always liked walking around the different neighborhoods - Kitsilano, University, Yaletown for dinner or drinks - but walking around this time, we found that people were rude (one man holding his BABY in a front-carrier knocked me down as I was walking out of a store on Macdonald Av, and shouted back "You're in the way of traffic, watch out" As he scurried away; another, a jogger downtown, waved to my husband to get out of his way as he jogged down the icy sidewalk where there really wasn't anywhere else to go) and prices had skyrocketed since our last visit a year ago. Shopkeepers and restaurant personnel were positively unfriendly which we have never experienced before. I am guessing it was the economy, and the bad weather, but I don't know. I was shocked and disappointed and I don't know that we'll visit again anytime soon. We did have the thought to prebook a car service for New Years Day to the airport and am VERY glad we did (Taxis are about $25-30 w/ a tip and the car service was $39 plus tip) Because of the snow and sleet that AM, even at 5:30 there was a line of people waiting for taxis l and it seemed like they were not coming quickly. our car dirver had worked in Europe for several years as a driver so habdled the bad conditions very well and it was a pleasant ride even with the weather. Our flights left on time, our luggage came too, and we are home safe and sound. Next trip will be to Sooke and Tofino! Thanks to everyone who helped make the trip a success! |
mztery, thanks for your detailed trip report! Sooke sounds like it was lovely. We'll have to go sometime!
We were actually at the Empress Bengal Lounge the same night as you(Dec 26). Too bad we didn't have a fodor's balloon above our table or something. The Empress said they only had the buffet because their refrigerator had broken. It was lovely - very cozy. We sat close to the jazz trio and not far from the big fireplace. We arrived on Boxing Day and I felt it was too commercial at first, too, at first blush. Some of the more unique stores, like the hat store, were closed. We returned the next day and targetted certain stores that we found interesting and had a great time. I mention these stores in the trip report I posted. There are lots of really intersting galleries too, but many were closed on Boxing Day and on through the week. We were disappointed by this, but we'll be going back in spring for DH's work, so I'll get to check them out. |
So glad you enjoyed Sooke! And I'm delighted that you were pleased with the food at Stone Pipe. We were there for dinner last night with some friends.
I'm surprised to hear that people in Vancouver were rude, but I'm sure you're right that it had something to do with the weather. Vancouver never, ever gets this kind of winter. I was briefly stranded at the airport on Boxing Day on my way home from Toronto, and ended up sharing a cab to the ferry instead of waiting around for the planes to start flying again. Cabs were in short supply and tempers were pretty short too. I think this has been a very stressful Christmas season for a lot of people. Do come back in the summer, when it's even lovelier here and I can guarantee there won't be any snow! |
Yes, I have noticed that everyone is a bit..well a lot...frustrated by the weather. I arrived back from my 2 week trip (in Mexico) and was quite shocked by how moody everyone was. Well, now I'm that way too! Snowed again tonight, not expected...again. Sooke was even shut off from everyone else do to flooding. Not a good situation theres...Please forgive us...
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Well, strictly speaking, Sooke wasn't cut off - the highway was closed but you could take the long way around through Metchosin if you had to. And it was only closed for a few hours. I was lucky and got to work (in Victoria) and back before and after the road closing.
West of us, though, the road is closed "indefinitely" according to this morning's newspaper. The two communities of Jordan River and Port Renfrew really are cut off. The only access is on the old logging road which isn't in much better shape than the highway, and people have to go at low tide because that road gets flooded at high tide. Weird times! |
Excellent trip report Mztery but do give Vancouver another chance. Vancouverites experienced winter weather not seen since the late 60's. Snowfall after snowfall after snowfall with some periods of very low temps (for Vancouver). Lots of complaints to City Hall about snow clearing or lack thereof!
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