Trip report: Canadian Rockies
 

My husband and I and our 2 sons (both 17) had an fantastic time in the Canadian Rockies in late July!

We flew in to Calgary arriving at 8pm. There were no lines at customs so within 20 minutes, we had retrieved our baggage, turned in the declaration card and were on our way. We exited the airport at "Ground Transportation" and crossed a couple lanes of traffic to get to Bay 10 (a yellow structure) to call our hotel, Country Inn & Suites, from the courtesy phone. The shuttle arrived quickly and it was a 10 minute drive to our hotel.

Country Inn & Suites ($165 CAD) was fine, but nothing special. Check-in and check-out had short lines that moved quickly. The staff was super friendly. We got a room on the 3rd floor with 2 queen beds. The beds were a little hard and on creaky metal frames. The bathroom was large, but the towels were skimpy. Complimentary breakfast was muffins, cereal, yogurt, pastries and make-your-own waffles.

Leaving Calgary the next morning, it was easy to find Route 1, but it was quite slow going through town. The rest of the drive was gorgeous as we neared the mountains. Our first stay would be in Field, but check-in wasn't until 4 p.m. so we had decided to hike Stoney Squaw in Banff. We drove Tunnel Mountain Drive, which was high up, but fairly built-up as there's a resort there. Then we went straight through Banff to the Mt Norquay Road drive, which was great scenery. This road stopped at the Mt. Norquay ski area, where we started our hike.

Within 5 minutes of starting the Stoney Squaw hike, we returned to the car to put on mosquito spray. I have NEVER seen that many bugs in one place! THe hike was a little confusing at the first major peak. The path goes in 3 directions and we didn't see trail markers. You go to the left (but not farthest left) and down. At the real peak, there's a great view of the valley then take the path to your left to return through lovely woods to the parking lot. This hike took us almost 2 hours. It's rated "easy" but I found it steep in parts.

Back in the car, we took the Bow valley Parkway - wow. We saw a bald eagle at the Backswamp overlook, plenty of deer and a bear snuffling around on a hillside near Lake Louise. I had been busy scanning the passing scenery for wildlife and soon realized there's no need to do this - someone else will see the wildlife before me and then lots of folks (including us) will stop with cameras! We passed Johnston Canyon parking lot - there were cars up and down the road for about 1/2 mile each way. We had decided to skip this Canyon in favor of Maligne Canyon near Jasper. From Lake Louise, it less than 30 minutes drive to get to Field, B.C., our first base.

Field is tiny town alongside the Kicking Horse River with about 100 homes, many of which rent rooms. Each of them would probably have a great view of the huge mountain across the road. There are 2 restaurants and extremely expensive groceries in 2 small stores. If you opt to stay here, buy your groceries in Canmore, Lake Louise, or Golden - not here. From Field it's about 5 minutes to Tak Falls and Paget's Overlook hike, 25 minutes to Lake Louise and 45 minutes to Golden.

We stayed at the Alpine Guest House for 3 nights at $250 per night. The base rate was $185, then $35 additional per child. The owners rent out the bottom level of their home and we had 4 rooms: a small bedroom with queen bed, a smaller bedroom with a double bed, a roomy modern bathroom and a nice-sized living room/dining room/kitchen. The TV was older and buzzed sometimes, but there were lots of DVD and VHS movies so we enjoyed good entertainment every evening. It was great being able to spread out. We prepared breakfast at our new home every day and packed sandwiches for the road. For dinner the Truffle Pigs restaurant in Field was excellent (entrees are $13 to $24).

The following day we drove to see the thunderous Takakkaw Falls. The main viewing area was crowded, so we walked the other way along the river then up into the forest. We explored the woods (no path) and climbed alongside another nearby waterfall until it got too steep and dangerous. We took a late afternoon visit to Emerald Lake (5 minutes from Field) which was breathtaking, stopping at Natural Bridge. On the way back to Field, we stopped to watch an elk and its baby drinking water in the middle of the river!

We'd planned to take a rafting trip on the Middle Lower Kicking Horse River ($100 - $170 depending on outfitter) but I was glad I didn't book in advance. The lower river, with 4+ rapids had been closed for 6 weeks due to water conditions.

The following day we went to Morraine Lake. The parking lots were full so we parked up the road 1/4 mile. We almost turned around due to the crowds but I'm so glad we didn't. WOW -I'd never seen a lake that beautiful! We climbed the rock pile for fun, but you can walk around it.

From there, we drove to Lake Louise, which again was very crowded, to do the excellent Plain of Six Glaciers hike. We purposely started our hike at 4:30 pm (it stays light past 10 pm) to avoid crowds, but still met lots of folks returning from the hike. On the way back we were usually alone. The hike starts around Lake Louise and then goes up beside the path of a retreating glacier. Very pretty subalpine scenery and indeed there are 6 glaciers in view for much of the hike. This hike is supposed to be 4 hours, but took me 5. Both of our sons run year-round so they went off on side paths and doubled back, while I moved slowly up the terrain. We stopped at the Teahouse, which is in a magical setting beside a creek. You could continue on another 1/4 mile to the foot of the glacier and take a narrow path along a crest back, but we passed as it was getting late.
On the way back we ate at Mountain Restaurant (near Samson mall) which was just excellent ($12-$24 entrees).

The next day we went back to Tak falls for a little more climbing, then headed into to Lake Louise on our way up north to Jasper. We rented gaitors and Mountaineering boots at Samson Mall for a later ice-climbing trip, and got good sandwiches from Laggan's Deli.

The trip to Jasper on Icefields Parkway was indescribably beautiful.Our teens have limited tolerance for scenic stops, so we chose the Peyto Lake overlook as our main stop and it was a good choice. We, along with 20 other folks, did see another black bear on a hillside next to the road.

Jasper is a medium sized tourist town with a couple long streets of restaurants and shops, then the homes and schools of residents spread out behind it. We went 3 miles past it to our next base - Patricia Lake Bungalows. We splurged on the newer Grove Suites for 3 nights. ($305 per night for 2 adults, 2 kids) but this was also our favorite place to stay. The suites have an extremely comfortable queen bed in a small bedroom, then a main room with a plasma TV, sofa bed, dining area and full kitchen. The staff was great, the laundry was useful, and the lake view was so gorgeous. We would sit at the table outside the suite and eat breakfast every morning. We prepared breakfast and lunch sandwiches at our suite. We bought reasonably-priced groceries at the eastern end of Connaught Ave at the IGA.

The next day, our boys (both 17 years old) rented mountain bikes at Online Bikes for $24 day and went off on their own exploring. They ended up going around Valley of Five Lakes (where they went swimming- brrr!) and the steep trails South and West of Jasper. My husband I drove out to Maligne Lake, hiked a bit and had a picnic overlooking yet another beautiful lake. I don't mean to sound jaded, and it was gorgeous, but we had seen 3 other beautiful lakes (Morraine, Louise and Peyto).

When the boys got back to Patricia Lake in the late afternoon, my husband and I took the bikes and rode the trails behind the bungalows. We ended up following a coyote for quite a way. He kept looking back and loping along in front of us! That night we ate at Jasper Pizza ($12 for a medium pizza with 8 slices)- really good and still crowded at 8pm. After that we drove to the animal lick 5 km south of Miette Road hoping to see mountain goats or sheep- it was a 45 minute drive at late dusk and there were no animals!

The next day, we went hiking around behind Patricia Lake again. Our neighbors had seen a bear about 50 yards away from the bungalows that morning. We followed some bike paths and then some faint animal paths. This is light woods with no underbrush and easy to get through. We did a late afternoon trip (5 pm) to Maligne Canyon. Don't miss the easy 15 minute loop between the 2nd and 1st bridge. Just awe-inspiring! Then my husband and the boys continued down the trail to the 5th bridge (I was meeting them with the car at the bottom) While they journeyed down, I went up hill from the 2nd bridge to the right and hiked for 30 minutes out before turning back, through some pretty woods with occasional views. That night our favorite dinner of the trip at the Soft Rock Cafe, which has Thai food at night ($9-$15 for a huge bowl)

Leaving the next morning we stopped in Jasper to get groceries for Icefield Chalet and for our boys to do ice-climbing there. On the Parkway on the way back we stopped at Goats & Glacier overlook, looking for goats and seeing none. But there were lots of cars stopped just past the overlook so I walked down. Peering deep into the woods, I couldn't see anything until the woman next to me pointed at my feet - about 5 feet in front of me there was a mountain goat munching on grass! He was a little guy and I was much too close (for his comfort) although he didn't seem to notice me. We saw other goats up the hill from the roadways just after the overlook. Onto the Icefields!

Icefields Chalet was sooo crowded, but it was all folks waiting for the snocoach rides up the glacier. There are no stores, no gas stations, nothing but the chalet and the glacier. There are 23 hotel rooms and it was full. Don't try to carry luggage up those steps to the hotel! If you walk up to check-in and ask for the valet service, they'll drive down to your car, get your bags and your family and drive back up behind the hotel.

We had room #323 ($245 for 2 adults nad 2 kids) with a perfect view of the glacier, right there taking up most of the window! This loft room had a large downstairs with a queen bed, sofa, 3 chairs and a small table. Then up some carpeted stairs were two twin beds with a bedside table between them. The TV gets several channels. There's no mini-frige so we brought a collapsible cooler and kept it stocked with drinks and ice. After unpacking, we drove to the foot of the glacier and climbed the short but steep path up. Wow - was it cold! You could climb a little ways onto the ice in a roped off area. Just amazing! Later in the evening we walked back across the highway and explored the area - climbing up alongside a small waterfall. Not being as limber as everyone else, I almost slipped in when we were fairly high up, which would have been a huge and very painful mistake!

There is a decent cafeteria (average entree is $10) at the Chalet that closes at 6 pm and a restaurant (Chinese at night) that stays open later. Unfortunately we had to eat at the restaurant the following morning and it was quite expensive ($15) for breakfast. It cost about the same for dinner, but that's more reasonable for that meal.

At 9 a.m. the next morning we met the boys' ice-climbing guide. We booked thru Cirrus Guides ($860 for 2 days for 2 people includes all gear except mountaineering boots and headlamps) and got a wonderful guide named Paddy Jerome. The original plan was to do a day of training and crevasse (sp?) climbing. Then to get up at 3 a.m. the next day and ice-climb Mt. Athabasca. Our sons had climbed Grand Teton last July (in the snow) and were looking forward to climbing with ice picks and crampons. But conditions were too warm and unstable to climb Mt. Athabasca safely (avalanche danger) . So Paddy suggested one day of crevasse training and then a day of climbing in Canmore. Fine with us.

The boys spend all day being lowered by ropes into crevasses and picking their way up and said it was soooo much fun. They learned how to rescue each other and their guide. Even with all their layers it was cold! The plan for us adults was to climb Wilcox Pass Trail this day, but I was sore just wanted a day to relax, so we walked back to the glacier and read books in the room.

We got up at 4:30 a.m the next morning for the drive to Canmore, where the boys were meeting their guide at 7 a.m.

In Canmore it was easy to find the coffee shop we set as a meeting place. Off the boys went with their guide to climb Ha Ling Peak. Late in the afternoon they returned there exhausted and happy. It had the steepest rock-climbing pitches they had ever done in a row. They ran out of water partway up (they brought Naglene container and should have taken the camelbacks we brought) There was an accident on the mountain below them that day and they showed us pictures of a tiny spot that was the rescue helicopter picking up the guy who fell (broken bones, but he'll survive fine). My husband and I had seen that helicopter when we were walking around the river below but fortunately didn't think it was rescuing anyone! After their climb Paddy took the boys for a swim and a tour of the surrounding area.

The climbing was a great finish to a wonderful trip. We said goodbye to Paddy and took off for Calgary. This time we checked in to the Sheraton Calgary ($187 includes taxes). There were no lines at check-in or check-out and the staff was exceptional. We had just signed up for the Starwood Preferred Guest program and this got us a large luxurious room on the 7th floor, a free beer and a 4 p.m. check-out time. This was great as our flight didn't leave until 6 p.m the next night.

This Sheraton has a "waterpark" which consists of 2 very long water slides, a good sized pool and 2 hot tubs, with a snack bar just up some steps. We all enjoyed the slides and the pools. We ate both dinner and breakfast at Colors - a casual restaurant at the Sheraton.

My husband returned the rental car at the airport and caught the Sheraton shuttle back. I forgot to mention the weird little jeep we rented on Hotwire.com for our trip. It was very reasonable ($450 for 8 days!) but very small for luggage.

It was good to head home, but I already missed the incredible mountains,lakes, and rivers of Canada - what a trip!

Thanks for sharing. Sounds like a great trip. We have been to the area several times and look forward to more return trips. We did the Plain of Six Glaciers hike, but as a big loop with the Lake Agnes tea house and the Big Beehive. Johnston Canyon is good if you go really early in the morning, and then continue on up to the inkpots. So a few ideas for your next trip;) Which, are you planning it yet? LOL! This area is so addicting.

Thanks for the report Jill and I am so glad you had a great time in Alberta.

I am wondering which Sheraton you stayed at in Calgary, I always stay at the Eau Claire, this one sounds slightly different but not sure.

Hello mms-
I would have preferred to hike in the morning but we had trouble getting the kids up early. I've read that Johnston Canyon was great. If you did Plain hike as part of a longer hike, you are in much better shape than me! I mistakenly thought that working out on an elliptical trainer for a couple months before our trip would get me in shape. But not for the uphill/downhill parts (which of course is most of the hikes!)

Hi catsmom - the hotel was actually a Sheraton Cavalier about 3 miles from the airport. We really liked it! - Jill

Jill--We do a lot of hiking/backpacking so are used to this. But you were smart to prepare:) We had reservations all in place to be there this July also, but then plans changed. Hopefully we will get back there in the near future.

Thanks for the great trip report, Jill. I loved the way you found things to keep your active teenage boys challenged and happy.

I'm curious about why the lower Kicking Horse River was closed. Was the water level too low? We did a rafting trip (class I&II) on the Athabasca River in Jasper last June with our 9-yr-old son. The guide pointed out that the water level in that part of the river changes by the hour, due to the amount of snow melt and weather conditions.

Too high from what we were told. We rafted the middle part. The lower part was closed because of high water.

Wow! It was great reading your trip report. My hubby and I drove around the Rockies in an RV in August 2007. We drove from Vancouver to Jasper in a loop inc Banff, Okanagan, Kamloops. The whole trip we only saw 2 elk and one goat! You lucky devil seeing so much wildlife. Although, I'd rather not see a bear!

What an active family...I'm exhausted from just reading about your trip.

Hi-
Yes the Kicking Horse river lower section was closed due to high water. It's been a warmer than usual summer. This is the same reason the boys couldn't climb Mt. Athabasca - avalanche danger from the warm weather.

Thanks for all the comments! It may seem like a real active vacation, but none of our activities began before noon. So we did our sleeping-in, reading books, drinking coffee in the a.m. Fortunately, this worked well when it doesn't get dark until after 10 p.m.!