Nova Scotia & New Brunswick - One Week
 

Andrea and I (Dave) are looking to head to NS & NB for a week in mid-September for a little getaway (after having done the city oriented Paris / London thing in May we're looking for a little more relaxed and natural beauty oriented vaca). We're both pretty healthy so sand, rocks, hikes, and even a little bouldering is not problem.

We're not yet committed to any itinerary but as a draft we're thinking of flying into Sydney, spending time in Cape Breton (Cabot Trail) for 2-3 days and then heading over to New Brunswick and Fundy National Park, Hopewell Rocks, etc.) and then flying out of St. John's or Moncton. Any thoughts anyone may have on the area or approaches or B&B's would be greatly appreciated. Some initial questions include:

Cabot Trail - clockwise or counterclockwise?
Should we also do the Ceilidh Trail or is this largely redundant?
Highlights / things to do in St. John's vs. Moncton as we want to select a base to stay.
We've done a bit of research from the usual travel internet sites (Fodor's etc.) but if you know of any local or less popular internet links you think may be useful that too would be appreciated.

Any other observations you may have...thanks a ton! Looking forward to the visit!!

Andrea & Dave

St John's is in Newfoundland. Or do you mean Saint John in New Brunswick? (This is the way we spell them in Canada to avoid confusion, or buying plane tickets to the wrong place.)

I've done the Cabot Trail both ways. I don't think it matters, each was enjoyable.

We just spent time in that area and loved it! We didn't do Capre Breton this trip so can't respond about that.

Moncton didn't really impress us. I guess it would be fine to fly out of but I wouldn't stay there. If you're doing Fundy National Park, I would stay elsewhere where you can enjoy the serenity and beautiful scenery. Alma has a few B&B's and a hotel. We stayed about 15 minutes outside Alma at A Suite on the Bay http://www.asuiteonthebay.com/. We loved it. Its nicely located to go to FUndy, visit Hopewell Rocks and just cruise up and down the beautiful coast. (In Alma don't miss Kelly's bakery -- sticky buns to die for 7 other yummy bakery stuff)

St John is a good 1.30 or 2 hours to Fundy so I wouldn't want to stay there as a base for visiting Fundy National Park.

Thanks - to be clear, meant Saint John in NB - seems no reason to stay there if FNP is the principal focus - thank you.

Is 4 days in the FNB area too much (FNP, Hopewell Rocks, Caledonia Gorge, Point Wolfe River Gorge, Cape Enrage, Alma, etc.)??

Lots of hiking in Fundy so you can easily spend several days exploring it and doing hikes, Alma is just a tiny town that is at the entrance to FNB - not really much there. Hopewell Rocks is interesting and one could spend several hours there or just check out the rocks at low tide, stroll around and leave. We drove to Cape Enrage, gorgeous drive, but didn't feel like paying the entrance fee as it looked a bit like Disney on a small scale. We enjoyed hiking a lot and driving and watching the tides which are fascinating. We were there 4 days. Haven't been to either of the gorges. I think 4 days if you include the gorges would be fine.

Thank you - we noted there was some rock climbing and rappeling at Cape Enrage - kayaking too. Not sure if we get to all that, but seems potentially a very full morning or afternoon. Thank you again for getting back to me.

I also found this series of professionally created videos on Youtube from the Bay of Fundy tourism department - some pretty nice, short, well done videos.

http://www.youtube.com/fundybay

Cape Breton is well worth 2 or 3 days (or more). I like clockwise best - but there are jaw-dropping (and different) views both ways and I know some people will say counter-clockwise. If you're daytripping a couple of times from one or 2 bases, maybe you can try both! Depending on where you stay, you could also do the Ceilidh Trail as a daytrip (e.g. out of Cheticamp or Baddeck) - but you may just want to spend most of your few days in and around the National Park, which is spectacular and has lots of scenery, hiking, whale-watching, etc.

Fundy National Park is smaller of course but very nice and dramatic scenery, and staying in Alma allows you to contrast the remarkable difference between high and low tide (we last stayed at Cliffside Suites which were lovely with spectacular views). You can daytrip down the Fundy Shore a bit from Alma, e.g. to Cape Enrage and Hopewell Rocks (or stop at the latter on route but try to time it for low tide). I've stopped at Cape Enrage for photos but didn't spend much time there. Personally, I would leave a little more time for Cape Breton than for Fundy as I think the size and diversity of landscapes/attractions in Cape Breton warrant more time. But this depends on your planned activities - e.g. longer hikes/sea kayaks/cliff climbing in Fundy are activities that could keep you busy for days.

Sounds like you won't have time for the Lighthouse Route/South Shore of NS southwest of Halifax which is another of my favourite East Coast travel areas - perhaps next time.......

Hi Dawg,

You've had good advice so far. If you can and your schedule permits visiting only one lighthouse, I'd suggest visiting the one at Peggy's Cove. I'm usually loathe to recommend the path well-trod but it was well worth the time. When I was there last September, there were still a few buses worth of tourists to be encountered but the site itself is lovely and includes an enjoyable and scenic drive to get there.

As for the Cabot Trail, I did it clockwise and enjoyed a narrated GPS tour along the way. I just wish I'd had someone along to take a picture of me at Meat Harbour. :D

u

Mat & U -

Thank you for your experience, insight, and guidance. We're putting the draft itinerary together over the next few days and will post here. Thank you again and have a great weekend.

D.

I prefer the clockwise direction on the Cabot trail, though as mentioned, both are spectacular. What matters more, however, is the weather. If possible, allow enough time so that you can wait out a foggy day, which makes the views pretty much irrelevant. Someone local may be able to tell you what to expect in the way of weather in late September. It may be a good time for fall colour in the forests.

I was there last week of September last year and the colours were dandy. However if there's a cold snap earlier than normal, it could be a bit of a crap-shoot just as it can be closer to home (southern Ontario). However, the scenery is just majestic anyway and even if you're there past peak colour, I'm sure you'll go away happy.

u

Just one more thing to consider - the distances are relatively short but the roads are twisty & slow so give yourself plenty of transit time

Flying into Sydney can be quite expensive. Why not fly into Halifax and return from that location. If you simply want to experience the "tides" you can do that from the NS side as well.

I couldn't tell from your posting if you have been in the Maritimes or not? But a week is definitely not enough time.

Suggested itinerary:
Arrive Halifax
Do South Shore (in one day) - Explore Halifax downtown (morning) then do Peggy's Cove, Chester, Mahone Bay, Lunenburg (spend the night at a B&B here)
Day two - head across the province to the Annapolis Valley. Spend a day in Wolfville, do Hall's Harbour (you can experience the full effect of the tides here). We like the Blomidon Inn - great on-site restaurant.
Day three - head to Cape Breton (day three, four and five). You don't mention spending any time at Louisbourg. If you like history, this is a remarkable place to see.
Day six - head back towards Halifax International Airport via Eastern shore. Sherbrooke Village - spend the night at Liscomb Lodge and take out a kayak or go back to the Salmon Ladder.
Day seven - arrive at the airport.

I agree with Tanya's itinerary. One thing I would mention is the drive from Wolfville to Cape Breton is at least 5 hours but on good highways.