Newcomer to Canadian Rockies

Old Mar 6th, 2007, 12:57 PM
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Newcomer to Canadian Rockies

First trip coming up July 4th week. This site has been a great deal of help to me having no idea where to stay, what to do, etc. From your posting, I have chosen to go to the Yoho National Park area to take the day trip to Lake O'Hara (too late for reservations for me!), Banff & Jasper. We are of the "older" generation - recently proud members of the AARP club. We have hiked all our lives but some are just too much. We now like short hikes and beautiful views! Don't believe in spending a great amount on hotels as we don't spend much time there. Suggestions with our ittinerary?
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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 03:04 PM
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If you want a backwoods place, try Twin Falls Chalet, run by Fran Drummond.

If you go to Lake O'Hara, most of the hikes are steep. The lakeshore circuit is fairly flat as you never deviate far from the lake.

My favorite trail is from the la Relais shelter to Lake McArthur along the highline trail. It is very spectacular and I have done it several times.

I made it out there after hip surgery at age 72. I think you will like the excursion. Take your lunch and enjoy the view.

I do not recommend the lowline trail because you drop below lake level and then have to climb out of that hole.
The views are something less than inspiring. I had rather be up on a high ledge looking down than to be down in a hole looking up.

On the highline trail there is one obstacle: a "step up" that is about 4 feet with few hand and footholds. I got up there, but I am not sure how!!

Just don't wear your Sunday suit!!
And take water.

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Old Mar 6th, 2007, 03:09 PM
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PS I suggest staying in Field. You can find a small apartment there that rents by the night, but often with 2 or 3 night minimums. My suggestion is Mt. Stephens Guesthouse or Spiral Tunnels. There are several others, however.

You fix your own meals, but there is a place to eat in the hamlet. As I recall it is the Truffle Pig, and it is very popular in the evening.
It is either that or drive to Lake Louise Village about 15 miles away, or desced to Golden which is a little farther away.

While there, be sure to see Takkakaw Falls, one of the great sights of the Rockies. Water falls freely about 800 feet. Get as close to the plunge basin as you dare! The force of the water is awesome!!

As for Twin Falls Chalet, it is rustic. You get great food from Fran, but the facilities are more like advanced camping. Water is from the creek, but filtered before you get it. The shower is behind some rocks with sun-heated water, if you dare take one.

I like the place, but it is not for someone expecting the Ritz-Carlton or even the Marriott.
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Old Mar 7th, 2007, 04:18 AM
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Bob, This sounds wonderful. We love an adventure and don't need a Ritz Carlton. That is what I was looking for - something out of the norm! So you would stay at Field for the whole trip and just commute to the other places? I will look into this. Also thanks for the hiking input. We will definitely take your advice there also. Thank you so much!
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Old Mar 7th, 2007, 02:55 PM
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I have stayed in Field for the trip because we like Spiral Tunnels as a place to stay. If Carla Gaffney still owns the house, it will be first rate. The sitting room is large, the bathroom is huge with a separate tub and shower, and the bedroom has a big bed that was very comfortable. You park near the door and you have your own separate entrance.

You cannot miss the place because Carla had a 7 ton rock put in the front yard!!
It was all a front-end loader could do to take it up there and dump it in the hole. I joking told Carla once that she needed to be careful, someone might steal her rock!!

As for Twin Falls Chalet, it is reached by trail. From the Twin Falls Campground parking area, the hike is a mostly flat 8k. Right at the end, the trail gets a little steep, but not bad.

The chalet as I said is very rustic. You eat by lamp light and Fran cooks on a wood-burning stove. I have been amazed at the quality of the meals there. Fran is indeed the empress of chefs when it comes to cooking great food under those conditions.

The rooms where you sleep are what I would call "bunk rooms." The beds are on a foam pad, quite thick, with a sleeping bag. You have enough room to store your gear because you will not be carrying much!!

In the summer of 2004, my wife and I met our son, his wife, and their 2 boys at TFC. They enjoyed it greatly, particularly the older boy who, at the time was 13.

He fell in love 3 times in one day. First there was the scenery, which he dearly loved. Then there was this blonde from Edmonton who was his age. Then there was the chocolate cake Fran served for desert, which for a period of time went to the top of the list. Just as I thought the blonde was regaining the #1 position, Fran brought out a second round of chocolate cake for the youngsters. No, Jordan did not get her address. He would now! (He is 16!)

From Twin Falls Chalet you can take two glorious, fantastic, pulse pounding hikes. Both require that you ascend to the side of the valley, which is of course vertical in most places.

Once you gain the top of the side that overlooks the chalet, you descend to Twin Falls Creek. There is a bridge over the creek not far from the brink of the falls.

From there you ascend to the high point of the Whaleback Trail. From this vantage point, where there is a memorial marker, you can see the peaks of The President Range, the whole Yoho Valley in a 200 degree panorama, Mt. de Poilus and its glacier, and even the peaks around Lake O'Hara if the day is clear.

Another alternativeis to turn right just before you reach the bridge and follow the creek upwards to Waterfall Valley.
The route is not marked, but the track is well beaten so that you can follow it easily. Once you gain the flat part of the valley, you are hemmed in by mountains and high ridges.

The valley is not well known and difficult to reach. We went there in 2005 and found it to be incredible because of its beauty and solitude.

One thing about Twin Falls Chalet, the new outhouse is a high-rise! The view of the peaks across the valley is imposing.

Fran usually opens for business about July 1, but that varies with snow depth. One year the opening was delayed because of a late season avalanche that blocked the road that leads from the Trans Canada Highway to Takkakaw Falls. It took a while to clear the snow, rocks, trees, and other debris from the road.

You can make a heck of a trip by spending 3 or 4 nights in Field. Devote one day to Lake O'Hara, another day to Lake Louise, Moraine Lake, and one or two other places around that area.
Then you can spend a third day driving up the Icefields Parkway, possibly as far as the Icefields Center, with stops at Peyto Lake, Bow Lake, and some other gorgeous views along the way.

The walk to Twin Falls can be varied by taking the Iceline Trail which starts near the Whiskey Jack Hostel. This makes for a longer day of it, but the Iceline offers incredible views as well. You climb steeply up the west side of the Yoho Valley, traverse the moraines of the rapidly departing Emerald Glacier, descend to Celeste Lake, turn east for a few dozen yards, and continue north over the rock pile to Twin Falls Chalet. The rock pile originated a few hundred years ago when a massive slide came off the side of the mountain. The trail over it is either an abomination or a challenge depending on your mood.

The first time I did it, I thought it was a challenge. The second time I did was in a sleet storm, and I thought it was an abomination. The third time was after I had descended from the high point of the Whaleback Trail on a beautiful day, and I took it as just another part of the hike.

If you view Twin Falls Chalet as the means to an end: Hiking the Whaleback and/or exploring Waterfall Valley, it makes a lot more sense because it provides food and shelter to support your ambitious undertaking.


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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 10:29 AM
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I was unable to book at the Spiral Tunnels as they haven't responded to my email request. I was able to book at Mt Stephens Guesthouse. Kim/Mt. Stephens mentioned the Pocahontas Cabins for Jasper so I also booked there. Twin Falls Chalet sounded wonderful but I was already booked.

Any must sees/to dos for Jasper area?
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Old Mar 12th, 2007, 01:04 PM
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You may need to call Karla.
She works during the winter at an oil field in the northern part of Alberta. She may not be back and as far as I know, John is alergic to email.

Phone: (250) 343-6067

I have stayed at both places and Spiral Tunnels is a grade higher.

Mt. Stephens is better now than it was because the bed is now queen sized, and the kitchen is larger with a table for eating.

Around Jasper two features: Mount Edith Cavell and the Angel Glacier and the Whistler. I suggest taking the Swiss-built cable car to the top. Otherwise, it is a steep uphill fight.

If you get a clear day, take the drive west to Mt. Robson. If you have time walk as far as Kinny Lake for a view of the top, waaaaaaaaaaay up above you.

Berg Lake is a little too far unless you are a marathon type who can jog up there and back.

South of Jasper, there is/are Athabasca Falls. They are spectacular and worth a trip.

Some people like Maligne Lake and Canyon. I took the boat trip once and thought it was just more lake.



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