Montreal and Halifax, slow 10 day itinerary
 

Hello, all,
I'm planning a trip for my husband and me to Montreal and Halifax in late July/early August, and I welcome your recommendations for hotels, restaurants, experiences, and the itinerary in general. We enjoy slow travel, history, art, big cities (as we live in a small one), good food, wine, strolling and hanging out. We are 68 and 73 and have traveled a lot in Europe, only to Vancouver in Canada. (Though I did visit Montreal and Quebec City on a family trip as a child and remember the Plains of Abraham and the Barbie doll I acquired in Montreal, but that's about it.) Many thanks in advance.

We'll fly in and out of Montreal, because nonstop, arriving in the early evening, then spend four nights and almost four days exploring the city. On the list (we won't do all of this, obvs): Old Port, historic center, basilica, Archeology Museum, Little Itaty, Jean Talon Market, Underground City, Musee des Beaux Arts, Botanical Gardens. Am I missing something wonderful? How would you prioritize?

Then, we'll head to Halifax on the Ocean train. It departs Montreal at 7 p.m., arrives in Halifax at 6 p.m. the next day. We love trains, especially European trains, and this sounds like a memorable experience. I'd love to hear from anyone who has done the trip.

We're planning five days and six nights in Halifax, with a car for part of the time and visit some of the beautiful little towns within an hour or so (probably) Peggy's Cove, the farmer's market at Truro, Lunenburg) and would like to spend a day visiting wineries.

Then we'll fly back to Montreal and home to Raleigh.

Hmmmmmmmmm...

(well, I really Do sorta love it when people HAVE 'parameters' of their own)

It's just that... yours are unique... WHICH is fine... but I can't so easily reference the seeming cookie cutter Nova Scotia itinerary for it.


Halifax is a fun city with pleasant, tolerable weather more often than not. The only knock I have against it for walking, is that much of the central area is on the side of a hill. (with 'nightlife' at the bottom) (but it'll be good exercise)

The challenge is... if spending each night IN Halifax... then just how far can your day trips take you???

Were it ME... right now... mandating to myself that all nights were to be spent IN Halifax


I would plot one day trip to Lunenburg... (1hr 10 min drive) and I would PAUSE at Mahone Bay on the way down on the chance that you might spot some (quaint) restaurant locale that suits you, for a stop on the return. Otherwise you'd obviously have the day to roam around Lunenburg, and eat there when it suits you... while considering locations for your evening-ish meal either in Mahone Bay or in Lunenburg.

With just an hour-ish in transit each way, you really CAN indulge yourselves in Lunenburg in one, full day.


Another day trip for ME... would be to some aspects of the Fundy shore.

The Truro area is where rivers turn around and flow UP stream each time the tide comes in. (the "Tidal Bore" is predictable, and you can time your passage to see it).

Most significantly, I would target Burntcoat Head for walking around the tide flats at or near the announced time of low tide.

You can walk waaaaaaaaaaaaay out on the floor of the bay, as shown in a couple of photos at this other thread:

You - who are reminded of Nova Scotia by news of the recent tragedy - VISIT NS! - Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (fodors.com)


Definitely go to Peggy's Cove... eat at the restaurant by the lighthouse... just because everybody does... LOL

Peggy's Cove is definitely a unique place and it is worth it to look around town during the middle of a weekday, but it won't likely take long.


Pictou is another cutesy little town, about 100 minutes each-way from Halifax (Truro in the middle, so you could combine visits)


IF I were spending just ONE night away from Halifax on such a journey... maybe I might opt for the lighthouse at Cape D'or (unless it's foggy!!!)


(that is nearly 3 hours away, each way, and again, it could be combined with a pause in Truro) (pictures also on the earlier linked thread)


* clarity: like everyone, I certainly recommend Cape Breton... but NOT for those whose nights are all to be spent in Halifax... AND I can't really entice anyone to try to get enough out of Cape Breton with ONE night spent there, so I'm basically ignoring it in this response.


You will surely have to do much of your own research with regard to wineries... but hopefully it will take you in still (slightly) different directions.


Hope this is at least a start...

Your Montreal list looks good - however I would plan on exploring the Plateau-mile End neighborhood, and possibly drop the underground city, which is just a collection of malls. The Plateau area is my favorite to walk or bike around - lots of small cafes, restaurants (many BYOB), funky shops, parks, quiet tree lined streets. I don't know if you are up for bicycling, if so, there are some wonderful bike paths criss-crossing the city and bike rental kiosks everywhere. Other 'must do's' IMHO would be Old Montreal & port, Jean Talon, and the Botanical Gardens.

Thank you for all of this. I appreciate the details in your guidance. With five days in Halifax, I think we're likely to spend three on jaunts outside the city, as you suggest. A fourth on wineries, maybe. And one for Halifax proper. Lots of lobster and wine. Also, I'm wondering what's unique about my travel parameters?

That sounds great. Thanks very much.

Clarity: nothing is wrong with your parameters... just that, the Halifax as (the only) base, and day trips in various directions is considerably different than the party with 7 or 10 nights to spend, dividing them up between Cape Breton, Halifax, the Fundy Shore, and perhaps PEI or NB. Lots of people drive up and around and we don't hear from tooooooo many who fly to Halifax and then spend all of their nights there.

It's OK... it just... alters my typical responses.

Ah, thank you. I get it. I've booked airfare and the train trip, but the rest is still open to revision. Generally speaking, we aren't crazy about a lot of driving and checking in/out of lodging every couple of days, so the hub and spoke plan usually works out. I appreciate your response.

Upon further review, some changes
 

Posting this in case it's helpful to someone else. After reading your feedback and doing some additional online poking around, we've decided to trim a day from Halifax, drive to PEI for two nights, then drive back to Halifax for a night, fly home a day later. Flights from Charlottetown don't suit.

I had been put off by the drive/ferry/drive to PEI scenario but then realized that driving was quicker and easier and more flexible, in that we can stop/detour along the way.

I posted a lot of information on PEI here

https://www.fodors.com/community/can...d-pei-1664364/

If you have any questions let me know.

Tom

When I first read this I thought - wow! its a long drive from Halifax to PEI. Then I did the google routing and it only says 3.5 hours. I was shocked. Admittedly I haven't been to either place for many years, but I recall even getting around PEI took quite a while. Don't get me wrong, I love PEI, but i might make that a separate trip on its own. Have you considered headed up to Cape Breton for a couple of days? Stunning scenery. And yes, I do realize it is a longer drive than to Charlottetown.