Banff/Jasper/Glacier/Yellowstone/Tetons trip report
 

Just got back from a gorgeous two weeks to all of the above! I want to thank everyone for all of your help, especially Judy in Calgary (I used your advice so much, Judy, that by about the third day, my boys would say, "What does Judy say about that?") and Brookwood for so much detail!

My favorite place of all was Lake Morraine, which was drop-dead gorgeous. We were there on a sunny day, and it made the water this bright freakish turquoise. We hiked all the way around to the waterfall, and then up to the lookout, and it was at that point that I decided that I can definitively say that that is the most beautiful place I've ever been. Always before I would think, "The Big Sur coastline? The Napali Coast? Luskentyre Beach in Scotland?" But now I know: Lake Morraine on a sunny day!

Lake Louise was beautiful, too, of course. As was Avalanche Lake in Glacier, which we hiked to way too fast. But Morraine was holy ground. (Am I spelling that right? Is it Moraine or Morriane?)

My second favorite thing was hiking to the glacier fed lake at Edith Cavell. We hiked up into an ice cave, and that was just so cool, pun not intended. The water was turquoise, and the ice was blue, and it was just, well, no words for being there on and IN a glacier! We also did the snowcoach tour, and thought it was great, not knowing that we'd be inside a glacier a day or two later!

After leaving Banff and Jasper, we were concerned that Glacier National Park would be a let-down. But then we went there. Oh, the wildflowers! Oh, the waterfalls! Oh, the mountains!

Okay, specifics -- we stayed in a hostel in Banff (Castle Mountain), and it was wonderful! The boys loved it, and so did we. There's a beautiful common room with games, and a really nice kitchen. We stayed in home accommodation (Sleepeze, I think) in Jasper, and though I had qualms about that ahead of time, it was really inexpensive, and roomy and clean. We didn't see our host except in passing, so we had a lot of privacy. And they had a big trampoline that the boys could jump on.

Let's see--in Jasper we drove out to Maligne Lake, which was pretty, but it wasn't sunny that day, so it didn't compare to Lake Morraine. The canyon was really cool, and we stopped at this huge field of boulders where the boys went nuts.

We also went to the hot springs in Miette (spelling?), and enjoyed that, and rented a paddle boat (which is ALWAYS more fun than it looks, especially after hiking for several days in a row!) on Pyramid Lake. The boys loved the little island there, and we thought that it would have been a great place to picnic.

In Glacier, we stayed at the Circle R in East Glacier and ate at Serranos, which was the BEST meal! The motel was clean and inexpensive, and we loved the little town (a great place to do laundry). But if I had to do it over, I would have reserved something in St. Mary. The extra driving was a bit too much at that point.

Then we stayed in Browning at the tipi village there. I don't have my stuff in front of me, so can't remember the name, but it is connected to an art gallery, and was a WHOLE LOT of fun.

And then, on to Yellowstone! We stayed in a cabin in Mammoth the first two nights there, and at another one in Canyon Village the second two nights. That worked out really well, because we were able to do the north part of the park at first, and then the lower part without a lot of backtracking. We saw it all, I think, from Mammoth Springs to Lamar Valley (a grizzly and coyote playing together through a scope, and buffalo right there in the road) to Norris Basin to Old Faithful (saw it spout three times) to Yellowstone Canyon to West Thumb Basin to Yellowstone Lake, you name it, we were there! The boys, okay, not just the boys, I got tired of hiking from one geyser/hotspring to another, and we saved the West Thumb Basin for on the way back through after the Tetons, which was a good idea. We picnicked at Gull Point, next to Lake Yellowstone, which was very pretty. And I did laundry at Lake Yellowstone, too, for you folks who are wondering, as I always do, about where to do laundry. We ate there, and I did laundry while we ate.

Let's see, what else about Yellowstone? We did several ranger-led tours and a campfire, and they were great. My youngest son did the Jr. Ranger program in Yellowstone, Glacier and the Grand Tetons, and that was really fun for him and for us. Don't even think of not doing that if your kids are the right age.

Then on to the Grand Tetons, where I broke down upon seeing the tent cabins in Colter Village. Yes, everyone had warned me, and I had stayed in them at Yosemite, so I knew what I was getting into. But it was almost more than I could bear when I first saw them and didn't think there was even a light, which it turns out there was. So I lay down with a cold rag on my head while my husband and kids went off for awhile, and was okay by the time they got back. Turns out that it was a lot of fun staying there, and they were better than Yosemite because they had a porch with a firering and a picnic table. I think I was just tired!

In the Tetons, we hiked halfway around Jenny Lake, and then took the boat back. I would definitely do this in the morning, which we did. I noticed that by noon, when we were coming back, there were a LOT of people on the trail. We saw a beautiful blonde bear there off the trail. Watched him for a long time, and then, as we were getting on the boat, saw him walking down the trail and a man walking up the trail. They met about three feet away from each other, and just stood there. The man reached for his pepper spray, and the bear ambled on up into the woods. I wish that I would have been quick enough to think to get a picture for the man, because no one would ever believe how close he was.

Okay, drove into Jackson, but was just trying to get out again as soon as possible. Yes, it's quaint (except for the strip mall part of it), but why spend time there when you can be in the Tetons? Loved Oxbow Bend at sunset. Saw moose there and some other places in the Tetons, too. Had a great meal at the Chuckwagon in Colter Bay. Attended a campfire talk there, too.

Then back through Yellowstone, up to Three Forks (flew out of Bozeman) where we spent our first and last night at the Broken Spur. We enjoyed the hospitality there. The owner gives great advice at breakfasttime!

That's my trip. I didn't mention the two bears we saw in our four hours at Waterton, or the incredible red rock canyon there with turquoise water. Or the dip in the Boiling River near Mammoth Springs, or swimming in the Firehole River near Madison, or rafting down the Yellowstone River in Gardiner. Or the bright blue skies. Or the smell of the pine trees. Or the smell of the flowers up there at the top of the world in Glacier. Ahhhh!

Turns out that we traveled 3232 miles by car. And loved almost every minute of it! Thanks again for all your good advice.

Hello CindyW,

Thanks so much for the trip report and the feedback.

>>>My favorite place of all was Lake Morraine, which was drop-dead gorgeous. We were there on a sunny day, and it made the water this bright freakish turquoise.<<<

I'm always happy to meet another convert.:)

Not only is the spelling Moraine, but the "Lake" comes after the "Moraine." Don't know why that is. We have Lake Minnewanka and Lake Louise, but we have Moraine Lake, Emerald Lake, Peyto Lake and Maligne Lake.

>>>Then on to the Grand Tetons, where I broke down upon seeing the tent cabins in Colter Village. Yes, everyone had warned me, and I had stayed in them at Yosemite, so I knew what I was getting into. But it was almost more than I could bear when I first saw them and didn't think there was even a light, which it turns out there was. So I lay down with a cold rag on my head while my husband and kids went off for awhile, and was okay by the time they got back. Turns out that it was a lot of fun staying there, and they were better than Yosemite because they had a porch with a firering and a picnic table. I think I was just tired!<<<

I got such a chuckle out of that! It reminds me of my mom's reaction to a particular place we visited during one of my childhood vacations. LOL.

>>>We saw a beautiful blonde bear there off the trail. Watched him for a long time, and then, as we were getting on the boat, saw him walking down the trail and a man walking up the trail. They met about three feet away from each other, and just stood there. The man reached for his pepper spray, and the bear ambled on up into the woods. I wish that I would have been quick enough to think to get a picture for the man, because no one would ever believe how close he was.<<<

Wow, that really was a Kodak Moment, wasn't it?

Thanks again, Cindy, for a most enjoyable account.

Judy, I didn't mention that we made it to Peyto Lake, too (steep little hike!). And did the gondola in Jasper--can't remember the name of the mountain (Whistlers?), but loved the little hoary marmots. Almost had a heart attack trying to get to the top, and then gave up, along with the rest of the family. In fact, the only thing that we didn't do that you suggested, I think, was Emerald Lake. I really wanted to go there, but we just flat ran out of time. Next time, perhaps...Okay, I'm done.

Cindy, thanks for the report. We were in Yellowstone & GTNP last month & now we are thinking about making a trip to Glacier next summer and possibly adding Banff & Jasper. If we fly in & out of Calgary, how many days would you recommend for each area?

I can almost picture you with the cold cloth on your head (or maybe I'm just picturing myself) after seeing the tent cabins. I considered that option for our GTNP trip, but wasn't brave enough to go through with it. How were the cabins at Canyon? We stayed at one of the Canyon lodges a year ago. I was was very happy with our room, but I was shocked by the condition of the cabins and relieved we weren't staying in one. Glad you had a good trip.

I thought our cabin at Canyon was fine. I wore rubber slippers in the shower (which was really small), but believe me, compared to the tent cabin, it was a palace!

I would advise more time in Banff and Jasper, and less in Glacier. Not because Banff and Jasper is better, just bigger! I think, if I had about a week, and were flying into Calgary, that I would spend two nights around Banff or Lake Louise, three nights in Jasper, another night in Banff or Lake Louise, and then another two in Glacier. Oh, shoot! Go for three in Glacier, and make it even. I wouldn't try to drive from Jasper to Glacier in one day, or visa versa. There are just too many stops to make along the way! I would definitely stop at Waterton on the way up or back. We saw two bears there in a couple of hours and this gorgeous pink canyon that you could wade around in.

Thanks Cindy! This will help me get a start on my trip planning.

Hey Cindy - what day were you on your walk to Peyto Lake??


. . . .just curious. . . . :-)))

Hey Borealis: It was July 31, around 7:00 p.m. or so--steep hike, beautiful flowers, and the smell of pine. Were you there then?

Hi Cindy,
No - it was two weeks after you - on Saturday August 13th, in early afternoon.
There were a lot people at the viewpoint, and I overheard a comment about Fodors!!